Zero-waste travel is possible and we tell you how
Yve Ramírez, AKA La Ecocosmopolita, author of the book “Vida residuo cero” and founder of the online shop Usar y Reusar, tells us how to travel more sustainably and without generating any waste. And it's not so difficult!
more infoBarrio de Triana
Exploring the popular Triana district is a great opportunity to immerse yourself in the atmosphere and daily life of this part of Seville, amid the character of its people, its streets, the communal patios, the dance academies, pottery workshops and most iconic buildings.
At the same time, you will be surprised by the most famous stories and legends about the district; especially those related to the time of the Spanish Inquisition. A district full of art and charm, or as the people of Seville say: full of magic. The inhabitants of Triana, have a strong sense of identity. For them, Triana is more than just a district – it is a town with its own personality. Despite the modern buildings that continue to pop up all over the place, Triana has managed to preserve an old feel to it: low houses, geranium-laden balconies and patios. The Parroquia de Santa Ana, a Gothic brick-built temple known as the Catedral Chica is the heart of Triana, but the essence of the district is to be found in its streets, its squares and its inhabitants. Triana is still a district of ever-bustling streets, bars and taverns in which to enjoy tapas and offers dynamic and traditional shopping opportunities with old-fashioned shops. Triana is one of the birthplaces of Flamenco. Numerous Flamenco artists have been born here and there is a distinct Triana way of singing, dancing and playing. The Flamenco atmosphere lives on in the ‘peñas’ and ‘tablaos’ of the Triana district of Seville.
Image:Frobles
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more infoBoutique Nadine
Text by Michele Moricci
It is easy to become lost in Firenze’s small streets. They are so full of history! The great churches and the elegant, city centre, buildings are surrounded by venerable nooks and crannies. The restaurants overlooking the streets are sure to captivate you while your sense of smell will be drawn to the scent of typical Ribollita or Lampredotto. As you stroll around, you are likely to have the feeling of being in the biggest open air museum that one could imagine.
What with the shops and old-fashioned Botteghe, you just won’t be able to resist the pleasure of popping in. And once in town, there is a special place you should not miss. A few steps away from Ponte Vecchio, on Lungarno Acciaiuoli and overlooking the Arno, there is Botique Nadine: a small boutique in the heart of the (old) city which is run by a Florentine couple with a complete fascination for fashion, their passion. To the sound of some jazz music, between precious vintage pieces and a cozy retro atmosphere, you will find the perfect combination of the best Firme d’Epoca (vintage labels) together with the refreshing creative craftsmanship of modern vintage style. The ideal place to track down unique pieces or to get hold of the inimitable style of such big names such as Balenciaga, Chanel, Pierre Cardin, Pucci, Valentino, Ferragamo or Gucci.
And if this wasn’t enough, as you leave the Basilica of Santa Croce in Via De’Benci, there’s Modern Boutique Nadine store. Between old trunks, silk clothes and a warm parquet you can choose papers, sumptuous pins and emerging designer clothing with retro influences for men and women.
Of course, a long shopping spree deserves to be brought to a close with a good Tuscan wine and a tasty Panini, stay tuned and take note while planning your trip to the city. Dive into a unique and sophisticated experience. Rediscover the pleasure of rural craftsmanship surrounded by the vibrant and lively Firenze lifestyle.
Text by Michele Moricci
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Tasty Eating in Palermo’s Markets and Other Spots
Palermo strikes a curious balance between large shopping precincts and narrow streets exuding romantic decadence, between makeshift street grill-stalls throbbing with electronic music and leisurely faddish restaurants. The city is, at times, caught up in another era, but also in the present, while aspiring to a better future.
A city of contrasts, influences and cultural convergence, Palermo has a lot to say in gastronomic terms. Both pasta and pizza are a mainstay of local cuisine, as they are in the rest of Italy, although here they have been revamped, displaying surprising traits, and combined with other local dishes that draw heavily on the sea or trip and offal. And, it is immediately evident the moment you walk into any of its markets, a must-see attraction if you happen to journey here.
Vucciria, Il Capo and Ballaró
Palermo’s three markets. They open every day except Sunday, from early in the morning until nightfall. As the stall produce becomes depleted, they clear up and bolt the small garages that act as storerooms. The markets are best visited in the morning, if you want to enjoy them in full swing. There’ll be vegetables you have likely never seen before, as well as spices, cheeses, a wealth of different olives, peppers, huge swordfish heads…
You can try street specialities such as pane con la milza or pani ca’ meusa (a sandwich of spleen fried in lard, served up with caciocavallo or ricotta cheese and lemon), arancini (fried rice balls, usually stuffed with meat) and panelle (gram flour fritters).
You could also take a breather and enjoy a marsala (vintage wine) at such bars as the legendary Taverna Azzurra, in the Vucciria, a meeting point every weekend after nightfall, when the market streets have been taken over by the youth, birras, music, table football and grills stuffed with stigghiola (tripe seasoned with salt, pepper and lemon, with or without bread).
You can stroll through the markets, sip a marsala wine and eat stigghiola. But you can also trek across the whole city and take note of some of the eateries worth visiting.
Da Diego. Pizzas and more, on the Via della Libertá. Not a tourist in sight and filled to bursting. An assortment of thick-dough pizzas stuffed with ingredients. We go for the one with mozzarella, sausage, spinach and mushrooms, accompanied by some swordfish involtini (rolls) with aubergine sauce, and sfinzione (Sicilian pizza) stuffed with ricotta and pesto. This is a type of focaccia topped with a crust of tomato, caciocavallo cheese, anchovy, onion and aromatic herbs.
Trattoria Michele & Jolanda. Just like home. We expected home cooking and, boy, did we get it! There you’ll be welcomed by Michele in the dining-room and Jolanda in the kitchen, sitting down at the table as if she were a guest. We order caponata (aubergine and other vegetables in tomato sauce), caprese (tomato, fresh mozzarella and basil) and a cold pepper salad as antipasti. Then pasta alla norma (tomato, aubergine and other vegetables), accompanied by le sarde, a typical Palermo recipe based on fresh sardines and fennel. And, not to be disloyal to the traditional repertoire, we round it off with cannoli– crisp, rolled pastry wafers filled with ricotta cheese. If you’re looking for an entertaining, lively, tasty, homemade meal at a good price, don’t fail to come here. It’s on the Via Cappuccini 12.
Osteria Mangia e Bevi. Quaint and pleasant. Beyond the family milieu we come to a trendier restaurant, but without foregoing fresh, wholesome cuisine, of course. We can recommend this restaurant for its fresh pasta, its fried pasta and its agglassati – two traditional ways of using up leftovers from yesterday’s dishes. Ideal, too, for tasting local wines and a marvellous cannolo served in a glass.
Other Pointers
When it comes to lodgings, we can recommend the Castelnuovo area, set in a shopping precinct and just a stone’s throw from the old town. We stayed at the Hotel Politeama, which is functional and provides wonderful, congenial service and a breakfast not lacking in sweet, savoury, fruit, jams with a host of flavours, different kinds of bread and even cannoli! The hotel looks onto a large piazza and the airport bus stops right outside the door, giving you a headstart if you want to move about without wasting time.
If you have the odd day left over, you are encouraged to get out of Palermo and discover a bit of Sicily. To accomplish this it is wise to get in touch with Ulisse, which organises regular, private outings from there. They really look after you – you won’t have any language difficulties and will be spared hassles when you need to use public transport and pick your way through the island’s chaotic traffic.
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Text and photos by Silvia Artaza (Gastronomistas)
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