Chaouen A Walk Through the Blue City
The city of Chaouen is located in the north-east of Morocco, some 60 kilometres from Tetouan. Its narrow streets and whitewashed houses, most of them in blue and white, are strangely reminiscent of the villages in the Alpujarra mountains of Granada. This comes as no surprise if you consider that centuries ago this area in the Rif mountains was settled by a large number of exiles from al-Andalus. Here, especially, what was originally a Berber settlement was transformed in 1471 into a town where Muslims and Jews expelled from the Iberian Peninsula by the Catholic Kings sought refuge. This accounts for the city’s unique ties to the Andalusian towns which they hailed from, where they derived the centuries-old customs they brought to this land.
One of the main reasons why a trip to this mountainous area is really worthwhile is that Chaouen (known variously as Chefchaouen, Chaouen or Xauen) appears to be frozen in time. It has hardly evolved at all over the centuries as it was considered a holy city. This is also why it was off limits to foreigners. Hence, when you first arrive and start wandering along its narrow streets, where it is rather difficult to get your bearings, you are suddenly gripped by the feeling of having stepped back into the Middle Ages. To compound this impression, in the Old Town the only way of getting around is on donkey back, which heightens the feeling of being a time traveller.
One of the major draws in Chaouen is the Medina or Old Town with its white-and-blue houses, a striking sight for visitors, who find them difficult to resist photographing. The main square, Place Outa el-Hammam, is the nerve centre of the Medina. It is the ideal spot for sipping a cup of tea while soaking up the atmosphere, or for tasting the local cuisine served in restaurants in the surrounding area. Also in the square stands the Kasbah, a fortress built in the 15th century, the interior of which can be visited, and the Great Mosque, its standout feature being its original, octagonal-shaped minaret. Near the square is the old caravanserai, where merchants used to stop over and sell their wares. Currently it hosts numerous local artisans who engage in their crafts and here you can pick up some picturesque homemade souvenirs.
Unlike in other Moroccan towns, in Chaouen it is easy to move around the old medina without being hassled by hawkers, which makes a visit even more pleasurable and relaxing. So, shopping enthusiasts, be sure to head for the souk, which runs from the archway marking the entrance to the medina as far as Outa el-Hammam Square. Get ready to go on a great shopping spree, with haggling included, of course.
A good panoramic view of the city can be had from Bab Onsar gate, in the north-east. Here you will also come across the fountain known as Ras el Maa, with a waterfall and a public washhouse which is still in use, as women come here every day to wash clothes by hand. A road leads from here to the Jemaa Bouzafar mosque, which is a 30-minute walk. The experience is well worth the effort.
Fire up and explore this jewel of northern Morocco situated 115 kilometres from Tangier – book your Vueling here.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by subherwal
more infoBarrio de Triana
Exploring the popular Triana district is a great opportunity to immerse yourself in the atmosphere and daily life of this part of Seville, amid the character of its people, its streets, the communal patios, the dance academies, pottery workshops and most iconic buildings.
At the same time, you will be surprised by the most famous stories and legends about the district; especially those related to the time of the Spanish Inquisition. A district full of art and charm, or as the people of Seville say: full of magic. The inhabitants of Triana, have a strong sense of identity. For them, Triana is more than just a district – it is a town with its own personality. Despite the modern buildings that continue to pop up all over the place, Triana has managed to preserve an old feel to it: low houses, geranium-laden balconies and patios. The Parroquia de Santa Ana, a Gothic brick-built temple known as the Catedral Chica is the heart of Triana, but the essence of the district is to be found in its streets, its squares and its inhabitants. Triana is still a district of ever-bustling streets, bars and taverns in which to enjoy tapas and offers dynamic and traditional shopping opportunities with old-fashioned shops. Triana is one of the birthplaces of Flamenco. Numerous Flamenco artists have been born here and there is a distinct Triana way of singing, dancing and playing. The Flamenco atmosphere lives on in the ‘peñas’ and ‘tablaos’ of the Triana district of Seville.
Image:Frobles
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more infoBoutique Nadine
Text by Michele Moricci
It is easy to become lost in Firenze’s small streets. They are so full of history! The great churches and the elegant, city centre, buildings are surrounded by venerable nooks and crannies. The restaurants overlooking the streets are sure to captivate you while your sense of smell will be drawn to the scent of typical Ribollita or Lampredotto. As you stroll around, you are likely to have the feeling of being in the biggest open air museum that one could imagine.
What with the shops and old-fashioned Botteghe, you just won’t be able to resist the pleasure of popping in. And once in town, there is a special place you should not miss. A few steps away from Ponte Vecchio, on Lungarno Acciaiuoli and overlooking the Arno, there is Botique Nadine: a small boutique in the heart of the (old) city which is run by a Florentine couple with a complete fascination for fashion, their passion. To the sound of some jazz music, between precious vintage pieces and a cozy retro atmosphere, you will find the perfect combination of the best Firme d’Epoca (vintage labels) together with the refreshing creative craftsmanship of modern vintage style. The ideal place to track down unique pieces or to get hold of the inimitable style of such big names such as Balenciaga, Chanel, Pierre Cardin, Pucci, Valentino, Ferragamo or Gucci.
And if this wasn’t enough, as you leave the Basilica of Santa Croce in Via De’Benci, there’s Modern Boutique Nadine store. Between old trunks, silk clothes and a warm parquet you can choose papers, sumptuous pins and emerging designer clothing with retro influences for men and women.
Of course, a long shopping spree deserves to be brought to a close with a good Tuscan wine and a tasty Panini, stay tuned and take note while planning your trip to the city. Dive into a unique and sophisticated experience. Rediscover the pleasure of rural craftsmanship surrounded by the vibrant and lively Firenze lifestyle.
Text by Michele Moricci
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Tasty Eating in Palermo’s Markets and Other Spots
Palermo strikes a curious balance between large shopping precincts and narrow streets exuding romantic decadence, between makeshift street grill-stalls throbbing with electronic music and leisurely faddish restaurants. The city is, at times, caught up in another era, but also in the present, while aspiring to a better future.
A city of contrasts, influences and cultural convergence, Palermo has a lot to say in gastronomic terms. Both pasta and pizza are a mainstay of local cuisine, as they are in the rest of Italy, although here they have been revamped, displaying surprising traits, and combined with other local dishes that draw heavily on the sea or trip and offal. And, it is immediately evident the moment you walk into any of its markets, a must-see attraction if you happen to journey here.
Vucciria, Il Capo and Ballaró
Palermo’s three markets. They open every day except Sunday, from early in the morning until nightfall. As the stall produce becomes depleted, they clear up and bolt the small garages that act as storerooms. The markets are best visited in the morning, if you want to enjoy them in full swing. There’ll be vegetables you have likely never seen before, as well as spices, cheeses, a wealth of different olives, peppers, huge swordfish heads…
You can try street specialities such as pane con la milza or pani ca’ meusa (a sandwich of spleen fried in lard, served up with caciocavallo or ricotta cheese and lemon), arancini (fried rice balls, usually stuffed with meat) and panelle (gram flour fritters).
You could also take a breather and enjoy a marsala (vintage wine) at such bars as the legendary Taverna Azzurra, in the Vucciria, a meeting point every weekend after nightfall, when the market streets have been taken over by the youth, birras, music, table football and grills stuffed with stigghiola (tripe seasoned with salt, pepper and lemon, with or without bread).
You can stroll through the markets, sip a marsala wine and eat stigghiola. But you can also trek across the whole city and take note of some of the eateries worth visiting.
Da Diego. Pizzas and more, on the Via della Libertá. Not a tourist in sight and filled to bursting. An assortment of thick-dough pizzas stuffed with ingredients. We go for the one with mozzarella, sausage, spinach and mushrooms, accompanied by some swordfish involtini (rolls) with aubergine sauce, and sfinzione (Sicilian pizza) stuffed with ricotta and pesto. This is a type of focaccia topped with a crust of tomato, caciocavallo cheese, anchovy, onion and aromatic herbs.
Trattoria Michele & Jolanda. Just like home. We expected home cooking and, boy, did we get it! There you’ll be welcomed by Michele in the dining-room and Jolanda in the kitchen, sitting down at the table as if she were a guest. We order caponata (aubergine and other vegetables in tomato sauce), caprese (tomato, fresh mozzarella and basil) and a cold pepper salad as antipasti. Then pasta alla norma (tomato, aubergine and other vegetables), accompanied by le sarde, a typical Palermo recipe based on fresh sardines and fennel. And, not to be disloyal to the traditional repertoire, we round it off with cannoli– crisp, rolled pastry wafers filled with ricotta cheese. If you’re looking for an entertaining, lively, tasty, homemade meal at a good price, don’t fail to come here. It’s on the Via Cappuccini 12.
Osteria Mangia e Bevi. Quaint and pleasant. Beyond the family milieu we come to a trendier restaurant, but without foregoing fresh, wholesome cuisine, of course. We can recommend this restaurant for its fresh pasta, its fried pasta and its agglassati – two traditional ways of using up leftovers from yesterday’s dishes. Ideal, too, for tasting local wines and a marvellous cannolo served in a glass.
Other Pointers
When it comes to lodgings, we can recommend the Castelnuovo area, set in a shopping precinct and just a stone’s throw from the old town. We stayed at the Hotel Politeama, which is functional and provides wonderful, congenial service and a breakfast not lacking in sweet, savoury, fruit, jams with a host of flavours, different kinds of bread and even cannoli! The hotel looks onto a large piazza and the airport bus stops right outside the door, giving you a headstart if you want to move about without wasting time.
If you have the odd day left over, you are encouraged to get out of Palermo and discover a bit of Sicily. To accomplish this it is wise to get in touch with Ulisse, which organises regular, private outings from there. They really look after you – you won’t have any language difficulties and will be spared hassles when you need to use public transport and pick your way through the island’s chaotic traffic.
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Text and photos by Silvia Artaza (Gastronomistas)
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