Les Calanques A Jewel on the Cusp of Marseille
The Marseillais are fortunate. Although they inhabit the second most populated city in France – after Paris – with all that entails, right on their doorstep they have a haven of peace in the form of a nature reserve which can be negotiated on foot or by kayak, and where they can swim and splash about in summer. Living with the Mediterranean lapping at your feet does have its advantages.
The spot we are referring to and which we recommend touring and experiencing first-hand is the magnificent Parc national des Calanques. This nature reserve starts at the port of Pointe Rouge, south of Marseille, and stretches for 20 kilometres along the Mediterranean coast, up to the small fishing port of Cassis. But, what secret does this area hold in store?
Les Calanques is an area of granite and limestone buttresses jutting into the sea and forming a winding coastline with deep inlets and numerous cliffs, between which nestle various coves or calanques, which the reserve takes its name from. Some of these coves can only be reached by sea. The turquoise blue of the sea strikes a marked contrast with the arid terrain, with little (stunted) or no vegetation, the result of the warm Mediterranean climate and the properties of the local soil.
Visitors to Les Calanques will enter a magnificent area, conducive to hiking in search of the picturesque coves. They will also find the perfect spot for rock climbing as it is teeming with cliff faces where the more adventurous can try out their skills on the sheer walls.
Things get even more interesting, as this nature reserve also extends out to sea, where the biodiversity lies in its waters, featuring a large number of different species. It is thus a very attractive destination for divers, too.
What to Bear In Mind When Visiting
When planning an excursion to Les Calanques, take into consideration that the area is protected, which means access is limited at different stages in the year. Summer is when it is at its most vulnerable, owing to fire hazards, so that motor vehicles are banned from the area in this season and even access on foot is controlled. So, if you are unable to visit the park in spring or autumn, the best time of year to venture into it, take into account that you have to pay to park your car and then walk in the summer sun. Remember to use sturdy footwear and to take a hat and a good water supply.
Of the many coves you will come across in this stretch of coastline, the most popular ones are Calanque de Port-Miou, Port-Pin, the Calanque d’En-Vau and Morgiou. These are closest to the town of Cassis and can be reached in the course of a pleasant walk along the coast. The larger Calanque de Sormiou is also among the most popular coves.
Be sure to also make a point of visiting Cassis and its picturesque harbour, characterised by its fishing boats and colourful houses. Painters of the calibre of Signac and Derain were understandably captivated by the light and colour of this town.
Don’t miss your own adventure to this magnificent corner of the Mediterranean – book your Vueling to Marseille here.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Frédérique Voisin-Demery, Amanda Snyder, Thomas Barthelet, maarjaara
more infoThe Eden Project Garden of the Future
When you first stand before the huge structures rising from this unique “Eden”, you would be forgiven for thinking you’ve stepped into a sci-fi movie from the 50s, 60s or 70s. Here, by the judicious use of special effects, the complex conveys the vision of an unusual future, charged with scientific advances. Nowadays those films may raise more than one smile, peopled as they were by the odd alien, or depicting some disaster that had obliterated mankind from the face of the earth. Lee Tamahori, who directed the James Bond movie, Die Another Day,in 2002, must have had a similar impression when he chose to shoot some of the action-packed scenes from this 007 classic on this site. But, what exactly is the Eden Project and what makes it imperative for you to head to Cornwall to see it?
The Eden Project – Nature and Sustainable Development
Located in Cornwall, two kilometres from St Blazey and five kilometres from St Austell, the Eden Project was the brainchild of Tim Smit. It was designed by the architect, Nicholas Grimshaw, and the engineering firm, Anthony Hunt and Associates, inspired by nature and sustainable development. Unveiled in March 2001, this unique, spectacular garden has two leading lights – its Biomes with their futuristic appearance. A biome is defined as the ecological unit into which the biosphere is divided in terms of a number of climatic and geological factors that determine the types of prevailing fauna and flora. Within each Biome is a specific bioclimatic landscape and its corresponding ecosystem.
One area at the site features a Rainforest Biome, with a hot, humid atmosphere, divided into four rainforest environments – Tropical Islands, Southeast Asia, West Africa and Tropical South America. Another area is dedicated to the Mediterranean Biome with its warm, temperate climate and drier atmosphere, showcasing the typical landscapes of the Mediterranean, South Africa and California. There are also gardens outside the Biomes which reflect the temperate regions of planet Earth.
The goal of this grand project is none other than to educate – the site has an educational centre known as The Core– and to make us aware of the biodiversity that characterises our planet. Children visiting this magnificent site will be enthralled, as will most adults who come here, too. You will be stunned by the sheer size of the vegetation and are sure to discover various aspects of nature you never knew about.
Before visiting the Eden Project, we recommend you first check out What’s On, as another added value of this site – where you get the growing impression of being in an amusement park – is the huge number of activities hosted there, directed at audiences of all ages. One of the events, for instance, which has been held annually since 2002, are the Eden Sessions, a series of concerts at which star performances have been given by the likes of Amy Winehouse, Muse, Lily Allen, Oasis, Pulp, Elton John and a long etcetera of great bands and musicians.
Book your flight to Cardiff and venture into this special garden of Eden in southwest England.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Eden Project
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Touring County Wicklow
If you have the chance to go to Dublin, we recommend you set aside a few extra days to go on some outings in its environs, where magnificent scenery and picturesque villages await you. While a few posts ago we recommended taking the DART, the rapid rail transit system which plies the Dublin coast, to visit some of the beautiful villages there, today we propose a getaway to County Wicklow, which lies south of the Irish capital. You may well wonder what is so special about this region that you ought to extend your stay and devote some extra time to it. Well – nature walks, Celtic legends, lakes, waterfalls, mansions, historic heritage and a large dose of magic. How do you feel about that? Well worth it, isn’t it? Here, then, are some pointers to touring the area and a rundown of the venues you shouldn’t miss.
The Garden of Ireland
The splendid Wicklow Mountains National Park is one of the county’s major attractions. Situated just 30 kilometres from Dublin, it contains an area of approximately 20,000 hectares. Known as the “Garden of Ireland” for its size, variety and beautiful plant life, it is the favourite getaway destination for weekend trippers from Dublin, who go there to enjoy its natural surroundings or to do sport, such as trekking, cycling, fishing and white-water rafting.
The standout feature of this nature reserve are the Wicklow Mountains, which traverse it from north to south. The highest peak is Lugnaquilla, which rises to 925 metres, followed by Mullaghcleevaun at 847 metres and Kippure at 757 metres. Other landmarks include the river Slaney, which runs through the mountain range for a distance of 72 kilometres, and lakes like Lough Tay – also known as Guinness – as a stretch of its shoreline forms part of an estate belonging to the family that make the popular beverage.
The best way to enjoy this lovely park is to venture along the roads that cross it as they will lead you to the multi-faceted slopes carved out by nature here. It is a veritable gift on the eyes and one of the best ways to discover the Irish countryside.
Historical Attractions
One of the highlights of touring this area is discovering some of its historical vestiges – like Glendalough, a monastic settlement located in the Wicklow Mountains. Founded in the 6th century by St Kevin, and built mainly in the 8th and 9th centuries, it has endured until the present despite assaults by the Vikings and having been sacked by the English. As its name indicates, Glendalough – meaning “Valley of Two Lakes” in Gaelic – is a historical complex located in a valley with two lakes. The area around the Upper Lake features most of the surviving buildings, while the Lower Lake area has fewer remains. They are, however, older and are all related in some way to the life of St Kevin. The way the stone constructions – often in a state of ruin – are set in the natural surroundings is really stunning and makes an excursion to the site well worth your while.
Other interesting sights in County Wicklow are some of the stately mansions, such as Avondale House, the birthplace and home of Charles Stewart Parnell, and Powerscourt House with its magnificent gardens, completed between 1858 and 1875, which are among the finest gardens in Ireland.
Be amazed by the magic of this marvellous Irish county located less than hour from Dublin – book your Vueling now!
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Claire Gribbin
more infoA Day On Lobos Island
This secluded spot in the middle of the Atlantic, which owes its name to a colony of monk seals (“sea wolves”) that once dwelt here, is synonymous with the triumph of nature. Lobos Island is a small volcanic islet located 2 kilometres off northern Fuerteventura, opposite the coast of Africa. It is part of the protected Corralejo Dunes Nature Reserve, covering just 5 square kilometres and with a 14-kilometre-long coastline, uninhabited by man and teeming with plant life which is unique to this spot – some 130 species of indigenous flora have been recorded. It is also a refuge for free-roaming migratory birds and a destination for explorers who trek along its arid footpaths, dive in the crystal-clear waters or simply plonk themselves down on the white sands of the island’s beaches.
Lobos Island can be reached by ferries which sail from the port of Corralejo. You have several options – mini-cruises, express ferries, etc. – so the best thing is to roll up and check out all the available facilities. El Majorero plies the official route, sailing at 10 a.m. and returning at 6 p.m. Be warned that their timetable changes in the winter months. To spend a pleasant day on Lobos Island, you are advised to take along sun cream, a cap, comfortable footwear, binoculars, food and water and, above all, to observe the signposts. As it is a Protected Nature Reserve, it is important to follow the indications.
I’m of the opinion that the best way to discover a place is by hiking around it, so I recommend taking the circular route, which stretches for eight kilometres. Your goal is the Martiño Lighthouse, dating from 1865. There is only one restaurant on Lobos Island so that, if you want to eat there, you have to book as soon as you reach the island. I assure you that, after a four-hour hike under the sun, the taste of fried fish or paella – the only two dishes they serve – is out of this world.
The route starts at the jetty and you take the footpath in the direction of El Puertito, an erstwhile fisherman’s cottage with a few masonry shelters. Here you will find the beach hut known as the Chiringuito Antoñito el Farero, named after the last inhabitant of the island. You then proceed along the coastal fork towards Las Lagunitas, a protected area of considerable natural value with its agaves and migratory birds, until you come to the Faro Martiño lighthouse, which affords stunning, 360° panoramic views. You will come across a memorial plaque of the writer, Josefina Pla, who was born on the island. After reaching the end of the trail, you make the return journey along the inland route. If you still have the energy to walk a bit further, there is a path forking off on the right that goes up to the old, 127-metre-high La Caldera volcano. Bear in mind that the approach route is short and steep, but the climb is highly rewarding as the summit provides spectacular views of Fuerteventura and Lanzarote.
On your return, stop at the wonderful La Concha beach, with its fine white sand and crystal-clear, calm waters, on account of the reefs that check the fury of the sea. Ideal for having a dip and sunbathing. But, beware – the sun can be torrid and there is no shade on the beach. If you decide to spend the day at the seaside, best take a sunshade along. The same footpath leads to the jetty – where you got off the boat a few hours ago and which is also the site of the Centro de Interpretación. From there, it takes you to the beach bar with its dining room literally on the beach – a picture postcard setting to mark the end of your day in paradise!
Book your Vueling to Fuerteventura and be sure to head for Lobos Island.
Text and images by Teresa Vallbona
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