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Bologna, the 'sauciest' Italian

By Belén Parra and Carme Gasull

Characterised and recognised due to its age-old attributes, we suggest approaching Bologna from the perspective of all there is to see (Rossa), to get to know (Dota) and, above all, to taste (Grassa) in this city, which is also the capital of Emilia Romagna, the epicentre of an Italy that is always rich when it comes to gastronomy.

ROSSA (tourist spots to SEE and get to know)

The traveller's eyes bulge at its kilometres of porticos and the range of colours in its buildings. That is exactly why we advise looking around it on foot. Visiting at the weekend has the added value that the whole historic quarter is closed to traffic and it is a pedestrian area for two days.

Bologna is marked out in a way by its 5 gates, which are both an entrance to the historic quarter and also let you get to know the 'other city'. Get away to this green lung made up of its gardens and its hills to see it from a height.

You'll find few squares more beautiful than the Delle Siete Chiese, especially when it is lit up. A stronghold for romantics, bohemians and nostalgics.

Like a good Italian, Bologna is also tremendous. The Due Torri, Santa Maria Maggiore and Neptuno are impressive. But you will also come across neverending avenues, the Galerías Cavour (Via Luigi Carlo Farini, 40) to ‘stay fashionable’ and the historical palazzi or buildings restored for cultural purposes, such as the old Town Hall with its marvellous public library called Salaborsa (Piazza Nettuno, 3) - ideal for trips with children.

DOTA (curiosities, warnings and things worth KNOWING)

They say that Bologna is the oldest city in the oldest country in the world. And the truth is that it has the oldest University in Europe, which not only students from all over Italy want to attend, but also from all over Europe - especially Erasmus students - and ones from further afield. Note: get a place in Law or Fine Arts. In the streets and bars, don't be surprised to hear more than one or two languages at a time. It's not only the tourists but also the people who have chosen to study and live in this city. Because there is lots of Italy beyond Rome, Venice and Florence...

The capital of Emilia Romagna is eminently a city of fairs, and it houses one of the most modern and functional trade fair venues of old Europe, BolognaFiere.

With good connections, the bicycle is the preferred form of local transport, but the bus is the quickest way to move around ‘fuori porte’. But be aware that paying for a ticket on board is a little more expensive than purchasing it in advance at a newsagents. There are a few places where you can learn the art of making homemade pasta but two stand out: the Vecchia Scuola Bolognese (Via Galliera, 11) and La Bottega Due Portici (Via Independenza, 69).

GRASSA (where and what to EAT and drink)

In Italy you can't really eat badly anywhere, but it's a fact that in Bologna you eat especially well. Its title of città del cibo (food) is as right as it is true.

The pasta that identifies this land is the tortellini, and the sauce, ragù. To try some of the best dishes from Bologna, go to the Trattoria AnnaMaria ( Via delle Belle Arti, 17/a), one of the most traditional premises in the city. All the photographs on its walls are evidence of the hundreds of performers and celebrities that have eaten at its tables.

The crescentina or crescenta is the best local bread. Spongy and tasty if it is homemade. And if you accompany it with local mortadela salami and regional parmesan cheese, then you've got a meal. In this regard, a trip through the Salsamenteria Tamburini (Via Caprarie, 1) is a must - a unchangeable classic that has know how to adapt to times and demand. In fact, its wine cellar is the corner that is most in demand and is also the cosiest of the whole establishment.

Very nearby you also have the Osteria del Sole (Vicolo Ranocchi, 1/d) - a unique premises wherever it is. You are only asked to drink here because you can bring your own snacks even from home. Nevertheless, people usually arrive with their piadine, focaccie and cold meats to share them with the whole table. If you don't mind drinking one thing or another, we recommend that you try the homemade beer while you're here. The birra is a must.

For wine tastings, pass by Alla Porta Vini (Via Castiglione, 79/a). Every day, they open a few bottles of wine for tasting. Amongst their preferences, those from the Southern Alps and from small producers.

La Osteria al Cappello Rosso (via dè Fusari, 9/b) is another of those delightful places where you will also want to eat everything you see. Local products used in traditional recipes and served in generous portions. Don't miss its selection of cold meats or its Lambrusco (a source of pride for the region) or its 'torta bolognesa', the typical cake of the city made from rice.

If you feel like an ice cream, don't hesitate to choose La Sorbetteria Castiglione (Via Castiglione, 44) or Il Gelatauro (Via San Vitale 98/b). And if instead you prefer a creamy ice-pop (on a stick), go to the Cremeria Sette Chiese (Via Santo Stefano, 14/a).

The Mercato delle Erbe (Via Hugo Bassi, 25) will charm your senses, above all those of sight and taste. Although there are many shops with good, fresh products. There is also the seafood. See for yourself at the Pescheria del Pavaglione (Via Pescherie Vecchie, 14) where, besides buying, you can taste an original Aperyfish - which doesn't need to be translated.

Also go to Paolo Atti & Figli (Via Caprarie, 7), a shop with traditional gastronomy known for the quality of its breads, cakes and fresh pasta.

Elegant and refined, Zanarini (Piazza Galvani, 1) is the historic café of the city and one of the preferred places for locals to have breakfast, a good cup of coffee and a better cake, and, of course, to see and be seen.

And another very special place, leaving the centre of the city behind: Il Cerfoglio, a restaurant committed to organic produce and km 0 in light, healthy and well made dishes (Via John Fitzgerald Kennedy, 11, San Lazzaro).

We’ll be there. If you want to come too, check out our flights here.

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5 curiosities to discover in Pisa

Pisa is the capital of Tuscany and, in addition to the famous Leaning Tower, features figures such as Galileo Galilei or landmarks such as the Piazza dei Cavalieri. We can also discover some hidden curiosity in the Italian city . Here are 5 tips you should discover: 1. In pisa there is not only one tower nor two, but three leaning towers. The best known one is located in Piazza del Duomo but also the belltower of the church of San Nicola and the third is the bell tower of the church of San Michele degli Scalzi (even though the church is inclined). 2.In Le Scuderie we can eat pizzas but literally one-meter long pizzas and also a good price … ideal for groups and a delicious selection of pastries.

3.The city of Pisa is named after a variety of Romanesque architecturedeveloped when the city was a powerful republic since the second half of the eleventh century to the first of the XIII

4.They say it’s lucky when touching on two intertwined lizards that are in the main door of the Duomo. You will check it out quickly because they are quite worn and more polished than the rest of the door.

5.Pisa hosts one of only 3 high schools in Italy, La Scuola Normale Superiore di Pisa which was founded in 1810 by Napoleon and gives a scientific and literary training of high level.

So you feel like visiting Pisa, do you? Book your flights here!  

By Isabel Sánchez-Vallejo

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Bologna Eating in the Cradle of Italian Cuisine

Tucked away between Venice and Florence, while not Italy’s most popular destination, it is certainly one of the cities that best distil the essence of the country. Bologna is nicknamed “the Learned One”, as its university is one of the oldest in Italy. It is also known as “the Red One” on account of the reddish hue of the city’s rooftops. But the most endearing epithet of the capital of Emilia-Romagna is “the Fat One”. In Bologna, gastronomy is a religion and it would be a sacrilege not to observe the ceremony involved in sitting down to table, while the traditional recipe for tortellini is jealously guarded in the city’s Chamber of Commerce vault. We ventured into the cradle of Italian cuisine and wandered through the streets of Il Quadrilatero, its historic centre (the second largest and best preserved in Italy), in search of the best restaurants, trattorie and osterie.

Mercato di Mezzo
In the heart of Il Quadrilatero, Bologna’s historic centre, stands the Mercato di Mezzo, one of the hotspots of any gastro route through the city. Its history goes back to the Middle Ages, a period when the shops and street stalls were divided up according to guilds. This state of affairs endured until the early 20th century, when the system was gradually disbanded. After being restored over the last few years, the Mercato di Mezzo, with its stalls selling fresh pasta, local wines, meats, fish, vegetables and cheeses has become the must-visit spot for all demanding foodies who happen to be in Bologna.

Osteria del Sole
You won’t see any sign or poster pointing you to what is one of the most emblematic establishments in town, so it is not easy to find. Located at Vicolo Ranocchi 1/d, between the Via degli Orefici and Via Pescherie Vecchie, you will come across something resembling a small rectangular opening in the wall. Don’t hesitate to go in, as this is the Osteria del Sole. It opened in 1465 and is Bologna’s oldest canteen. According to many in the know, in the whole of Italy as well. It breathes authenticity throughout. However, if you’re feeling peckish, this is not the place to still your hunger, as they only serve wine – and what wines, too! – beer and aperitifs like grappa or the local liqueur par excellence, Amaro Montenegro. They do let you take your own food, though, whether in a lunch box or from some nearby trattoria. Quite an experience!

Trattoria Tamburini
Trattoria Tamburini
is one of those places where you would eat everything, including the tablecloth. Opened in 1932 on the premises of what was once one of the most popular butcheries in the city, Tamburini is the ideal choice for an aperitif. If your taste buds are up to having an orgasm, take up a seat on the terrace and taste their exquisite cheese and sausage boards, washed down with a fine lambrusco. They serve what are unquestionably the best mortadella and parmesan cheese in Bologna. If you feel like something heartier and more consistent, you can always go inside and wolf down some tortellini. You can’t go wrong with the ones they serve up at Tamburini.

Paolo Atti & Figli
Tortellini, zuppas, torta di riso, pane bolognese... the folks at Paolo Atti & Figli have been pasta artists since 1880. Their centuries-old workshop is located at Via Caprarie 7, while their other shop is at Via Drapperie 6. Go up close and watch how Elda, one of the most respected sfoglina (pasta makers) in Bologna, delicately and purposefully kneads the pasta based on eggs from hens who feed solely on corn and semolina brought especially from Altamura, in Puglia. They do not add any salt at Paolo Atti & Figli as they claim it kills the flavour.

Trattoria Gianni
Here is one of those secrets you’re reluctant to share with anyone, so that the next time you visit the city the restaurant is still frequented by mainly locals, with just a few stray tourists. Modest and inviting (these are definitely the ones to go for) and just a few steps away from the central Piazza Maggiore, Trattoria Gianni is the place to go all out on tagliatelle al ragú alla bolognese, tortellini in brodo (very similar to the Catalan “sopa de galets”), cotoletta (breaded veal cutlets) with baked potatoes… The premises are small, so you are advised to book in advance. Otherwise, you will have to wait a while, although the waiters will help you kill time by plying you with glasses of prosecco on the house.

Al Voltone
Their claim to fame is having been the first restaurant in Bologna to make their culinary creations using products sourced exclusively from the province of Emilia-Romagna. Popularly known as La Torinese 1988, Al Voltone focuses on simple cuisine with a steadfastly traditional essence. Or, twice good, to put it another way. Apart from the omnipresent, irresistible tagliatelle and tortellini, the menu at Al Voltone also features such culinary temptations as green lasagna a la bolognese. And, for dessert, you can’t possibly refuse to sink your spoon into their piccolo pecato with custard and chocolate.

The Grand Ambassador of Bologna
It is regarded as a lesser pleasure, but the genuine variety is exquisite and sublime. Mortadella – there are various theories about the origin of its name – is the grand ambassador of traditional Bolognese cuisine around the world. The story goes back to the Renaissance, when it is believed that Cristoforo da Messisbugo, carver to Cardinal Ippolito d’Este, devised the original recipe. Bologna mortadella is made exclusively of meticulously selected pork which is ground into a fine paste, to which are added nuggets of fat (never less than 15% or more than 28% of the total meat surface), endowing it with a characteristic flavour. It is then stuffed into a casing of natural or artificial gut. Eaten with a few slices of freshly baked bread and a piece of cheese is bliss on the palate.

Book your Vueling to Bologna and get ready to savour their excellent cuisine.

Text by Oriol Rodríguez

 

 

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10 PLACES TO GO WITH KIDS IN SPRING

A selection of family-friendly countries in Europe which are perfect for visiting with the kids this spring, by Mammaproof.

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