The province of Bolzano, also known as Alto Adige and South Tyrol, culturally half-Italian and half-Austrian, is home to one of Italy’s best known mountain ranges, the Dolomites. They make up a spectacular landscape in which valleys alternate with characteristically shaped mountains that seem to rake the sky. They also change colour with the passage of the sun, to the delight of visitors – during the day, they are white, while at dawn and dusk they take on a splendid reddish tinge. Le Corbusier himself was enthralled with their magic and called the Dolomites “the most beautiful architectural work on earth”. Protected by seven parks, they were listed as a World Heritage Site in 2009.

The Dolomites provide the perfect backdrop for doing open-air sport like skiing or climbing and are also an ideal arena for enthusiasts of nature watching or those in search of inspiration. You are most likely to find inspiration in the Messner Mountain Museum, a network ofsix museums located in unique spots in the South Tyrol.They are themed around mountaineering, rock climbing and the culture of mountain dwellers.

The figure behind such a special museum concept as this – intimately linked to nature – is the unique, exceptional Italian, Reinhold Messner. Considered one of the best climbers of all time, his track record includes scaling all fourteen eight-thousands without oxygen. In 1978, Messner and his Austrian companion Peter Habeler were the first mountaineers to conquer Everest without supplemental oxygen. This heralded the start of a long career in summiting. In 1991, Messner’s intrepidness and thirst for new experiences led him to take part in the first expedition to cross Antarctica without outside support.

He currently leads a tranquil life centred around writing and the Messner Mountain Museum, an original collection of museums made up of the following spaces:

MMM Corones. Situated on the summit of Kronplatz, the story of mountaineering unfolds here. Designed by the architect Zaha Hadid, the museum was carved out of the mountainside. All that is visible from the outside is the three-pronged observation platform on the summit, with stunning views of Mt Peitlerkofel, Mt Heiligkreuzkofel, Ortler and the South Tyrol.

MMM Firmian. Near Bolzano stands Sigmundskron Castle, home to this museum themed around the relationship between man and the mountain. It is worth visiting it if only for its views of the Alps and the Dolomites.

MMM Dolomites. Also known as the “Museum in the Clouds”, it is located in an old bunker from the First World War on the 2,181-metre-high summit of Mt Rite, between Pieve di Cadore and Cortina d’Ampezzo. The museum is devoted to rock climbing, and conceptualised as a tribute to the Dolomites and everyone who has climbed them.

MMM Juval. Located in Juval Castle, it is dedicated to the “magic of the mountain”. The interior houses an exhibition of artworks featuring a Tibetan collection and masks from the five continents. The museum can only be visited as a guided tour, while in July and August it is closed, as it is the summer residence of the Messner family.

MMM Ripa. Another castle – in this instance, Bruneck Castle – houses this museum dedicated to mountain cultures. Not for nothing is the name of this space derived from the Tibetan words ri (mountain) and pa (man).

MMM Ortles. In the village of Solda, this simple stone building is half buried underground, with pasture thatch forming the rooftop of this unusual museum. The central theme is the world of ice and the subjects of skiing, ice-climbing and expeditions to the Poles.

Now that you have the keys to some of the marvels awaiting you in the South Tyrol, all that’s left is to book your Vueling to Verona – about an hour and a half’s drive from Bolzano – and discover it for yourself.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Messner Mountain Museum and Zaha Hadid Architects (© Inexhibit)

La Cervesera Artesana
The name (meaning “Craft Beer House”) may seem rather obvious, but they wear it proudly as this beer house was one of the first brewpubs in town to sport the “craft” label. Through glass panes you can see how they make seven types of Iberian beer, the brand adopted by the first microbrewery in Barcelona, dating from 1993. Their drinks are served on the premises and range from a stout to an acclaimed spicy beer. They went to Facebook to ask their customers which new variety they should bring out and the winning suggestion was a chilli beer. They’re working on it. They offer many others, too. The brewery, in the lower part of Gràcia, always has an upbeat atmosphere.

Homo Sibaris
Guillem Laporta is one of the beer activists with the most pedigree in Barcelona and his beer house, Homo Sibaris, is proof of the knowledge he has acquired. It is also one of the city’s most inviting beer cellars. Located in the picturesque Plaza Osca in the Sants district, its battery of handpumps has recently been augmented to fourteen. The brews that emerge from their spouts are made by Guillem himself (he has just crafted a bitter which is going to be the talk of the town!), in addition to other hard-to-find craft beers from around the world. Take a seat at one of their tables, or on the terrace, browse through the menu you will be handed, ask the staff and let them guide you. They always get it right.

Biercab
When Manuel Baltasar was deciding what type of beer house to open with his friends, he realised that good company was an essential element. Good company in the project – his partners include a beer distributor, a craft brewery in Navarre (Naparbier) and a master brewer from Belgium, Sven Bosch. And good company at the tables in his brewpub, located in the middle of the Eixample district. The tapas menu at BierCab is designed to pair well with their beers.Chef Ronald García prepares the dishes, notably ceviche de corvina (sea bass lemon-and-garlic marinade) with tiger’s milk, and sea bass sashimi with yellow ají sauce. Even non-beer drinkers ought to taste them, although stepping into BierCab without trying a single beer would be riotous. They have over 600 varieties, many of them Catalan, bearing in mind that these climes are now gripped with beer fever. “The best thing here is that everyone can find their own beer style”, Manuel promises.

Blacklab & Kitchen
Jing Cheng and Matt Bader met while studying architecture in Chicago and, after graduating, settled in Barcelona. A few years later, they turned their passion into a profession, setting up a brewhouse in the Palau de Mar, in the Barceloneta. Everything there is reminiscent of what they loved about the USA – the natural beers that Matt makes, the kitchen – they serve up hamburgers, sandwiches and soups, but tend to recommend the chicken wings and pulled pork buns – and even the gigs held on Saturday evening. Customers eat and drink among tanks where the house beers are fermented. They come in a thousand different styles and always feature some new creation.

Abirradero
Craft brewers inevitably treat their profession as a vocation, and they emerge relatively late in life at that. The triumvirate at Abirradero, in Poble-sec, bear this out, as it is made up of Nereo Garbi, a former publisher, Daniel Fermún, an IT technician, and Ivò Castells, a telecoms graduate. Half of the beers they list are their own creation, some in rather bizarre styles. With the assistance of journalist Sergi Bayó, they have even adapted the periodic table of elements to beer, to help newcomers discover the infinite diversity of this world. Accompanied by tapas designed to pair well with the beverage, a dinner at Abirradero will reveal the endless culinary possibilities of beer.

Book your Vueling to Barcelona and gear up to savour the finest craft beers in town.

Text by Josep Sucarrats of Gastronomistas

By Panenka www.panenka.org

Beyond the obvious attractions of the ‘City of Light‘, Paris hides large and small secrets for the travelling sports fan. Pioneering and revolutionary in all senses of the words, the banks of the Seine witnessed the first final of the Europa Cup competition, the first game of football at the Olympic Games and the creation of the Ballon d’Or. And as man does not live by football alone, every year, the eyes of the world turn towards the French capital to greet the king of Roland Garros, in the Bois de Boulogne, or the ‘Maillot amarillo’ of the Tour de France, with its victory run down the Champs Elysées. Apart from the ancient Stade de Colombes, where the final match in ‘Escape to Victory’ was filmed, there are important venues in Paris that must be visited including the hallowed ground of the Stade de France in Saint-Denis and for rugby fans, the unmissable Parc des Princes, home of Paris Saint-Germain. From these terraces, fans shouted at the tops of their voices: “Paris est magique!” And how right they are: all you have to do is take the step and discover the magic for yourself.

The eleven sporting venues

1 Yves-du-Manoir The stadium in old Colombes that featured in Escape to Victory.
2 Philippe-Chatrier Rafael Nadal’s back garden.
3 Parc des Princes Home of the PSG and Luis Arconada’s nightmare scenario.
4 Stade Bauer Last home of wandering club Red Star.
5 Stade Charléty Modest home of the decadent Paris FC.
6 Stade de France The Olympus of the heroes of 98 in Saint-Denis.
7 Paris-Bercy Hard to think of a sport that has not been played here.
8 Jacques-Anquetil Velodrome Hosted the first Olympic football contest.
9 Pershing Stadium Today it’s a baseball pitch but it was the heart of football in 1924.
10 Dominique-Duvauchelle Stadium The home of US Créteil-Lusitanos.
11 Stade Salvador Allende The Noisy-le-Sec reds stadium.

Eleven tourist spots

1 Versailles It was not by chance that Louis XIV was called the ‘Sun King’.
2 Ballon d’Or The golden sphere was born at the headquarters of France Football.
3 Trocadero at night, the best place to enjoy the Eiffel Tower.
4 Arc de Triomphe Napoleon’s caprice to celebrate Austerlitz.
5 Hotel Delaunay Named after the former president of UEFA and its trophy.
6 Café de Flore The second home of Sartre and Simone De Beauvoir.
7 Pigalle Like Amsterdam’s red light district but more glamorous.
8 Hotel Ambassador Bernabéu and Hanot met to create the Europa Cup.
9 Sacré Coeur The basilica of Montmartre commanding the best views.
10 Le baise The City Hall square and a photo by Doisneau.
11 Père-Lachaise Artists’ Cemetery, including Jim Morrison.

Ilustration by Pep Boatella / @pepboatella

A perfect idea for travelling with friends! Check out our flights and off you go!

Going out for an aperitif is unquestionably all the rage in Barcelona. Here, it is a pre-lunch ritual, revolving around that heart-warming beverage with herbs and its supporting cast of gastronomic classics such as olives, crisps, mussels, banderillas(pickled appetizers on a cocktail stick), gildas, anchovies and a host of other tasties. A number of cutting-edge gastro varieties have also come into their own, as have a reworking of the classics.

The long-standing, traditional slew of bars for indulging in this not so hidden pleasure has been augmented by new proposals, making Barcelona a veritable paradise for revelling in this “gastro sport”. You can practically tour the city by going from one taproom to the next, although we decline all responsibility for any ensuing hangover or blowout you are likely to experience. We now turn to a selection of venues for giving yourself over to this pleasure on the palate.

Senyor Vermut

Running for just over two years, this bar has managed to elbow its way in among the respectable venues in town. One of its secrets is its broad selection of vermouths – there are up to 40 options to choose from – particularly those they make themselves. Another key to their success is their tapas, notably the papas bravas, a genuine delicacy.

El Xampanyet

Located at 22 Calle Montcada, in the heart of the Born, this is a classic among classics, where tourists and locals mingle in uncanny harmony. This small wine cellar with its classical air is usually packed, so you are advised to get there early if you want a seat. Their anchovies are the best in town and their ham is sheer delight.

Vermuteria el Tano

A real classic in the Gracia district, with appropriate decor included – casks, old-fashioned fridges and countless objects from the past. They have a magnificent array of cold tapas to accompany your vermouth or beer. This bar has a grass-roots atmosphere, continually livened up by the congenial service dispensed by Tano, its current owner.

Morro Fi

This tiny bar on Calle Consell de Cent harbours an intense pleasure – that of savouring a glass of well pulled beer. Manel, the most prominent figure in this bar, takes great pains to serve up a fine vermouth – they are sourced in Reus, the classical purveyor and most noted vermouth-producing town. He also has excellent munchies, like the French fries with mussels and olives and a touch of pungent sauce, which is finger-licking delicious. The family has grown in recent years, so die-hards of this venue have two other alternatives in the Sant Gervasi district, namely Mitja Vida and Dalt de Tot. And, here you can also pick up an aperitif kit wrapped in a simple, original design.

Bodega 1900

As mentioned above, some spots have splashed out on new trends in tapas, and this wine bar, with Albert Adrià at the helm, has endowed the appetizer ritual with an avant-garde flourish. His vermouth – La Cala – is homemade and his tapas are both innovative and top-notch. Interestingly, this innovation strikes a contrast with the classical decor in the bar.

Gran Bodega Saltó

This unusual bodega is located in Poble Sec, another district to bear in mind if you’re into appetisers. On entering, newcomers are struck by the decor, featuring old barrels clashing with a host of interspersed , ill-matched objects cramming the display cabinets and the area at the back of the tavern. It is well worth visiting, but not only for its outlandish decoration, as here your aperitif and tapas are accompanied by live music.

Ready to explore the bars of Barcelona in search of the best vermouth? Check out our flights here.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS