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Santorini Tell Me Where You Are, And I’ll Tell You Where To Eat

In summer, this beautiful island, with pristine white towns clinging to formidable cliff faces, welcomes the European jet set who come to bathe blithely in spectacular private pools with sea views. In parallel, another sector of the population ekes out a living offering donkey tours to Japanese tourists. These are the two faces of contemporary Greece, a land which still preserves that majestic profile of a lingering past, despite things crumbling around it, which has in Santorini a jewel that has not fallen prey to the horror of mass tourism and urban development. Following is a selection of four venues located in the salient spots in this piece of paradise where you can delight in the wonderful local cuisine.

Tranquilo (Perissa)

On a trip to Santorini, sooner or later you happen to find yourself in the vicinity of Perissa, its main claim to fame being its beaches – the Red Beach and the Black Beach. Perissa puts up more modest tourists than those who stay at the fantastic boutique hotels in beautiful Oia, Fira and Imerovigli. Hence, it is a good place to spend the night, as it is full of pretty, picturesque hotels, like the charming Kouros Village where we stayed, whose breakfasts on the terrace we still fondly recall.

By night, its seaside promenade speckled with restaurants is a good place to take cover from the exorbitant prices of other spots on the island and enjoy their down-to-earth Greek cooking. One such venue is Tranquilo, a beach bar with sea views where reggae sounds out continually and their friendly dreadlocked staff follow slow-food precepts to the letter, serving up delicious 0-km organic Greek food at laughable prices. Be sure to order youvetsi (Greek pasta) or one of their bio macro-salads.

Sphinx Wine Bar (Oia)

This restaurant in Oia, which opened just a few months ago, is the perfect spot for indulging in Greek wine and cuisine with creative flourishes based mainly on fish. It does not have sea views, but it does have a magical terrace in an alleyway in that beautiful, fairy-tale village, and its success is endorsed by that of its big brother – the Sphinx Restaurant in the capital, Fira.

This secluded corner, decorated in exquisite taste and with a cellar tailored to sybarites, has a spectacular wine list, which Panagiotis, their sommelier, knows by heart and will lecture you on in depth. Their array of dishes ranges from lobster with octopus to carpaccio and the odd nod to vegan and vegetarian cooking, as well as salads as their super-foods and desserts with such suggestive names as When Mango Meets Citrus.

The Wine Bar (Imerovigli)

At the Hotel Heliotopos in Imerovigli we came across an area called The Wine Bar which we advise you to try with an open mind and palate, prepared to taste more-than-interesting Greek wines. Located in a small natural cellar, which contributes to preserving the wine and endows the experience with a touch of magic, you can taste countless marvels produced from the local grape variety known as Assyrtico. We recommend you take your glass with you onto the terrace at dusk, to witness one of the best sunsets on earth.

Koukoumavlos (Fira)

In Fira, the capital, you have to tread carefully. There, all the restaurants look wonderful, with spectacular views over the sea, but you have a good chance of ending up with an apology for a moussaka. The capital of Santorini is crammed with dubious tourist draws, like the donkey ride that took us to the ferry which leads to a volcano, or the exorbitantly priced restaurant tourist traps. You should avoid making the mistakes we did, like becoming spellbound by the views and letting yourself be cajoled by a bearded waiter, a cross between Bardem and Varoufakis. So, take our advice and go for Koukoumavlos, a superb choice. Their €68 menu is a good way of enjoying the essence of this restaurant’s offerings. They have specialised in Mediterranean cuisine for the last 30 years, have endorsements from the public and critics alike, and the spot affords fantastic views of the volcano.

Text and photos by Laura Conde of Gastronomistas.com

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The Historic Centre of Malaga

The streets of Malaga are home to a special kind of charm and warmth. To stroll through the centre of the city is a chance to see streets full of history and to discover numerous points of interest within close proximity of one another. One of these places is the pretty cream-coloured façade and plant pot-adorned balconies of the hidden-away Pasaje Chinitas, which evokes the past and is home to the legendary Café Cantante de Chinitas. This place was once frequented by bullfighters, writers and poets such as Federico García Lorca.

The Café de Chinitas was a scandalous and the most famous “singer’s café” in Malaga, known for the artistic and traditional performances that took place between 1857 and 1937. Due to its enormous popularity, the alleyway in which it was located still bears its name and the verse of Federico García Lorcapay tribute to it thus:

At Café de Chinitas, Paquiro said to his brother: “I am braver than you, more bullfighter and more Gypsy”. He took out his watch saying: “This bull must die before half past four.”

The name was recovered by the famous Restaurante Chinitas, which bases its culinary offer on shellfish, meat, ham and typical dishes from Malaga, such as the fritura malagueña (fried fish platter) or the arroz caldoso con bogavante (lobster with creamy rice).

Nearby, you can also find the Bodega Quitapenas, which first opened in 1880 and specialises in fish and shellfish, such as fried octopus, squid, baby squid, cuttlefish, cod, fish roe, prawns and razor clams, or the excellent tortilla de camarones (shrimp omelette) that they wash down with local wines.

The Taberna Trillo is one of the oldest restaurants in the old part of Malaga, with its delicious specialities of codballs in courgette sauce, goat’s liver and onion, battered sea nettle and Iberian meat stuffed with chorizo and pepper ali-oli sauce. A truly luxurious way to discover the local gastronomy.

Only a few metres away, Malaga Cathedral soars into the sky. This is one of the most valuable Renaissance gems to be found in Andalusia. The Basílica de la Encarnación is popularly referred to by the name of la Manquita because it was never finished. Its artistic treasures include a piece of the Divino Morales, a sculpture of the Virgen de los Dolores de Pedro de Mena, others of Andrea del Sarto and Van Dyck and various paintings by Niño de Guevara.

Continuing north, you will come to Calle Calderería where the Taberna Mitjada can be found. This central and busy place has enormous barrels in the square that give it a rustic feel. They serve rolls, toasted bread, fried fish and other dishes with sweet Pedro Ximénez wine, the very essence of this bar. Dating from the early 19th century elaborate wrought iron work decorating the windows is worthy of note.

Very close by, at the Gibralfaro, they serve generous portions of fried fish, aubergines in honey and battered fish at very good prices. Of course, that’s if you don’t mind smelling of fried fish for the rest of the day.

In the pretty Plaza de la Merced, you will find the Picasso House-Museum. Located in the Palacio de Buenavista, a 16th Century building that has been declared a National Monument, this museum houses more than 280 works by the artist (including paintings, sculptures, drawings and engravings). The twelve galleries of the Picasso Museum include works by the artist from when he was only 13 years old to his most famous creations, from cubism to his so-called “blue period”.

At the base of the hill on which can be found the Alcazaba castle, Calle Alcazabilla is home to the oldRoman Theatre of Malaga. It remained buried for centuries until it was uncovered in 1951. It can be visited for free throughout the year.

The Alcazaba and the Castillo de Gibralfaro together form a walled fortress and one of the most beautiful places in the city. From the Gibralfaro tower, it is possible to enjoy some magnificent views of the city of Malaga.

Finally, Calle Cervantes is home to the Restaurante el Refectorium. Its delicious dishes are based on shellfish, meat, vegetables and salads. The place has become rightly famous and the restaurant offers some lovely views of the entire Malaga bay.

Picture by paolotrabattoni.it

Why not take a trip to Málaga? Have a look at our flights here!

 

 

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Lanzarote deportiva: ¿cómo preparar el Ironman más duro del mundo?

Ironman is a triathlon event with a swim course of 3.8 km, a bike course of 180 km and a 42-km marathon. 1992 was an Olympic year and one of marked change for Barcelona. That same year, 2,700 km south of Barcelona, Kenneth Gasque brought the Ironman to Lanzarote for the first time, having previously headed a sports centre on the island since 1983 and competed in the Ironman World Championship in Hawaii in 1985. From the outset, he waits for each competitor at the finish. After 22 events, in 2014 I was one of the more than 2,200 participants who received a hug from that endearing man at the end of the race. You can be sure I’ll be competing again but, if you would like to train for it too, here are five tips to get you started. The next event is on 23 May.

1. Ironman is not necessarily an event for just anyone. What I mean is that, if you want to do triathlon, you don’t need to start with the blue-ribbon or longest event.

2. Set yourself a realistic goal and plan each detail carefully. Don’t forget the invisible training (nutrition, massage and rest), flight bookings, registration (be warned – it gets sold out!), accommodation, as well as preparing and thoroughly testing your equipment well beforehand.

3. Train on the island for a few days in advance. Knowing the island is key. Constant, 40-knot winds; gusts of up to 60 knots and running under the sun, at a temperature of over 30°C, with wind. Your bodily sensation is delusive because you feel cool, when in reality you are rapidly dehydrating. You have to learn to pedal into the wind while ensuring you stay hydrated and protected from the sun (sun block and cap). To prep for the event there are training centres such as the one run by the organiser, Club La Santa, or races like el tri122 Costa Teguise. Here are some guidelines if you are unable to get here a few days ahead: avoid broad-profile tyres and choose a gear ratio that will facilitate a high-cadence ride. There are no large passes but the wind is worse than in a category 1 mountain pass.

4. On the day of the race, don’t create barriers – flow and enjoy. Forget the stopwatch – Lanzarote is a race that depends on sun and wind conditions on the day, which is what determines the duration of each course, and you need to be prepared to adapt.

5. Come accompanied and pamper your “groupies”. For me, this is the most important point – your family and friends also deserve a prize. Start off with a hearty dinner after the race. I recommend the Italian eatery, La Casa dil Parmigiano, for dinner, after the event. It is next to the finish and has a relaxed atmosphere, despite the bustle of the race. But, make sure you book ahead! Then relax – they have years of experience feeding famished finishers.

It’s a good idea to again calmly savour the beauty of the bike course by later driving across Lanzarote (Cicar is the local car-hire company and you can pick up and drop off the vehicle at almost any point on the island). This way you can make tactical stops at key points on the course.

Landscape

Timanfaya and the Mirador del Río viewpoint are the most spectacular.  And, if you’re a vegetarian, you can stop to eat at the restaurante Puerta Verde in Haría.

Switching Off

Take a trip to La Graciosa, known as “the 8th island”, which can be reached by boat from Órzola. Once there, be sure to hire a bicycle and tour the island, and end up eating at the Restaurante Girasol. Order the fish of the day and the tarta de la abuela (granny tart), a stunning variation on your grandma’s Marie biscuits… and mine, too.

Local fare

The Teleclub de Tao comes highly recommended. For a light, traditional dish, don’t fail to try la vieja a la espalda con papas arrugadas y mojo.“La vieja” is a South American fish which in the Canary Islands is found mainly around Lanzarote – a simple but tasty, typical Lanzarote fish dish. A piece of advice if you’re a newbie – don’t come upstairs if you’ve had amojosauce that’s repeating on you!

Sun and Sea

From El Golfo, heading towards Playa Blanca, you come to the calas de Papagayo (Parrot coves), an ideal spot for surfing, windsurfing and kitesurfing to switch off altogether in the turquoise-blue waters, with views of Lobos Island off Fuerteventura.

Overdrive

if you’re not exhausted after reading through this posting, your thing is going into overdrive! In that case you should stop at Famara to do surfing or kitesurfing, in which you glide over the water pulled by a powerful kite. This cove is always crammed with surfers and you can take lessons from the pros. One of the instructors who can help you is José María Cabrera, who runs a surf school where you prep on dry sand before completing your training in the sea. I had a coffee with Manuel Lezcano, who explained how the school works. It seemed like a professionally sound teaching methodology based on safety.

I bet you’re now anxious to start training and live out the adventure on Lanzarote! Check out our flights here!

Text by Raúl Casañas

Images by Ginés Díaz, Ïoana Manolache

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7 unforgettable experiences in Marrakech

There are endless opportunities to dive into Marrakech, a magical and vibrant Maghreb city. We can not say goodbye to the city without visiting:

1.- Majorelle Garden

Majorelle Garden is the most important art work performed by the French painter Jacques Majorelle, designed during his stay in Marrakech at the villa where he was staying. 

It is a lush botanical garden rich in different species of exotic plants which Majorelle brought from his many travels around the world. It was opened in 1947 and closed in 1962. It remained closed until the designer Yves Saint-Laurent bought it and restored for later reopening in 1980, adding more plant specimens. The blue coloured walls in this wonderful palace contrast to the deep green of this paradise’s vegetation, full of cactus, palms, yuccas, lilies, coconut and banana, among many others. Exploring this unique paradise is priceless.

2.- El Palmeral

The Palmeraie (El Palmeral) more than 13,000 hectares of land that conform a particular and mystical ecosystem, full of palm.

Conservation is very important since it is the first supplying source of wood and dates in  Marrakech. This ancient park is often visited both in chaise or by camel. By about 100 dirhams (10 euros), you can take a camel ride along inside it. Rent a chaise with horses is a bit more expensive, from about 200-250 dirhams (20-25 euros), but it is also charming. The chaise ride takes about two hours and goes from theJemaa el Fna to Palmeraie Golf Palace Hotel, located at the furthest point in the area. You can also find a number of buildings and luxury hotels as well as some golf courses that only suits the wealthiest pockets. Is a fairly sightseeing tour but very pleasant and is worth trying the experience at least once.

3.- The Djemaa el Fna

The Djemaa el Fna, the most iconic and well known place in the city.

Here you will live a continuous show at any time of day. You get mesmerize by the dulled atmosphere made of smells of spices and those ones arising from the multitude of traditional food stalls.  Haggling is the marrakechi practice by excellence. It can be used without hesitation in this square and all over thesouk, which extends from the north of these narrow alleyways and labyrinthine passages into the heart of the city. Not to forget that they are used to haggle even in the stores themselves. From water or natural juices to taxis in the souk you may get all sorts of craft items and food and pay  a third part of their “real” price. The tajine, couscous, snails and lamb meat are some of the most appetizing dishes that can taste around here.

In this diverse activity center there is also room for a spiritual reality: the seers who read the hands or throw the tarot and snake charmers are the key characters in this mix of cultural movement. For those who love ostentation, there is a luxury restaurant called Al Baraka in the same square where you can mingle with high class people for eating typical delicious dishes while dancing girls dance around, it is is perfect for Ali Baba’s a thousand nights.

4.- Leather Tanning

The traditional process of tanning leather is one of the city’s oldest crafts.

The Moroccan tanners’ work is very hard, especially because of the stench given off by waste substances needed to carry out such work.

We recommend going with a guide who can detail perfectly this interesting procedure’s different stages and we should not forget to take a few mint leaves that are available at the entrance to help the nose soothe the unpleasant sensation caused by the smell . Living this experience will lead us directly to theMiddle Ages.

5.- Medina’s Teahouses

Medina’s Teahouses in Marrakech are a must on your trip to the Arab world.

Take a mint tea or spearmint, popularly known as Moorish tea in the Marrakech’s Medina is essential to make us feel as authentic Moroccan.

Some of the most glamorous and chic teahouses are the Arabic Cafe and La Terrasse des Epices. It is also highly recommended to try the exotic saffron tea.

6.- Hammams

A Hammam is a traditional bath room where you get fully relax.

Are also common in these centers the beauty treatments such as moisturizing and skin peels. There are different styles of hammam targeted for all ages and budgets. Although formerly attend this sort of Roman baths were an activity reserved for the rich, today it is a pleasant experience to suit everybody’s pockets. Some names of our favorites are Les Bains de Marrakech and La Maison Arabe.

7.- Ksar of Aït BenHaddou, Sus-Masa-Draa

The Ksar or fortified city of Aït BenHaddou is considered World Heritage Site since 1987.

It has been used as a location for many films such as Gladiator or The Mummy, because of it’s adobe-house architecture’s great beauty and the spectacular views it offers. It is a dream place that strikes for it is extremelly well maintained. Getting here is not easy, the journey is 200 km from Marrakech by vehicle through mountain ports, which takes about four hours. Once arrived there, you will forget all the effort that has involved getting into a new world merged by ocher, green palm trees and blazing blue sky.

Picture by Donarreiskoffer

By Blanca Frontera

A place well worth discovering! Check out our flights here.

 

 

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