Tell Me Who You Take To Berlin
Oh, Berlin! How can it be at once traditional and modern, cosmopolitan and friendly, cool and… cheap? One thing is certain – the German capital has options to suit all pockets, and food for all palates. It matters not who you go with, as we shall now prove.
Weihenstephaner – Bavarian Food For Your Parents
“What! We’re off to Berlin? Wouldn’t it be better to visit Aunt Anselma in Cuenca, son?” That’s how your parents reacted – fearing something too modern – when you gifted them a flight to Berlin. Just as well you found a decent little hotel in downtown Mitte. The rest was a cinch – a tour of Museum Island, a stroll through the ever lively Oranienburger Strasse. Night was falling by the time you reached Hackescher Markt and then you knew for sure – Weihenstephaner. This Bavarian-style restaurant, with two endless floors and countless saloons, wooden tables and waiters dressed as you would imagine Germans to be attired on festive occasions, was the perfect option. The restaurant is named after the beer brewed in Weihenstephan Abbey since at least 1040. And, yes, you can quaff enormous glasses of any of the varieties, from the mildest blondes to the highest-proof dark brews. If you then add succulent roast pork in beer sauce, garnished with potato dumplings, or a scrumptious veal currywurst, you understand why tears were rolling down your father’s face. Sheer bliss! And, for less than 20 euros a head, unless you get carried away with the beer.
Hasir – The Original Kebab With Your Younger Bosom Brother
You had promised your brother a trip in September if he passed all his subjects. Well, you know… but the guy goes and passes everything! You asked him where he would like to go and he replied without hesitation, “Berlin”. He was probably gunning for the Berghain, likely the best techno club in the world, although that depends on the mood the bouncers are in. After sundown, it was up to you to show him the city and, as the lad was not yet worldly-wise, you thought of taking him to Kreuzberg, the Turkish quarter, which has now been taken over by the modern crowd. Halal butcher’s shops stand alongside second-hand clothing stores; corner shops with things Muslim opposite bio-organic cafés. In short, a culture clash which left him open-mouthed. When it came to feeding him you chose Hasir, a Turkish food classic, run by a bloke who is supposed to have invented the döner kebab. The eatery is decorated with a map of the Anatolian Peninsula, photos of customers and the odd Turkish kitsch motif. The food lived up to expectations – outrageously big helpings which are ideal for your brother, who was making his final growth spurt.
Berlin Street Food Market/The Circus – The Winning Combo for your Hipster Friend
Is there any more hipster destination than Berlin? That’s what you were thinking when you got two tickets for your best friend, that bearded skateboarding guy, even though he was already greying and had been collecting board games from the 80s. “I’ll have a tough time surprising him”, you thought as you printed your Vueling tickets. Thank goodness someone tipped you off that, the second weekend each month, the KulturBrauerei building, in the modern heart of Prenzlauer Berg itself, hosts an awesome Street Food Market. The Germanic ethos comes through in this event, organised to perfection, with long rows of dining tables, a DJ and such tempting offerings as Eastern baos, Cuban cuisine, vegan pies and… with no queues! All one hundred per cent conceived, designed and executed in food trucks. To crown it all, you took him to the Katz & Maus Tap Room, the bar at The Circus designer hostel, with their craft beer made right there, the barrels and metal stills on display to bear out its authenticity. And, at a good price! Great music, ranging from Indie to rock classics, rounding off a fine example of what any hotel bar ought to be. You achieved it – your friend was left stroking his beard, speechless, enjoying a delicious craft beer.
Lucky Leek – How to Win Your Vegan Girlfriend’s Heart
Granted, your first date was disastrous. You took her to have a hamburger and that was when she uttered those three words that changed everything forever: “I’m a vegan”. That’s why the thought of a trip to Berlin made her raise an eyebrow as if to say, “I don’t intend to eat a single sausage!” But, you were clever, since Berlin happens to be Europe’s vegetarian capital for 2016. What’s more, you bet a winner – you booked a table at Lucky Leek, a high-flying vegan restaurant recommend by the Michelin Guide. Their chef, Josita Hartanto, works magic on fruit and vegetables, with such dishes as aubergine bread with seitan and tofu and courgette salad, or tomato soup with vegetable dumplings. Think green… and you can’t go wrong!
Text and photos by Javier Casto of Gastronomistas
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Almodóvars Madrid
What can we say about Pedro Almodóvar? Luis Buñuel notwithstanding, he is the internationally best known Spanish film director. His Oscar-award-studded, iconoclastic filmography includes both masterpieces and a large number of highly interesting movies. Like any creator worth his salt – and the Manchegan is one of these – Almodóvar has a pet city that features repeatedly in his films. We are referring to Madrid. In the late seventies he left his native Calzada de Calatrava and journeyed to the capital, Madrid, intent on making his name in cinema. It ended up becoming his favourite set. He has portrayed it in many different ways, revealing both its highlights and shadows, its well-known and its hidden facets. Almodóvar has explored virtually all the streets of his adopted city with a view to heightening the emotions and feelings of his main actors. His fiction breathes life into buildings, streets, establishments, airports, train stations and a long list of other settings.
The director of Volver turned the city into a film set, using to advantage real locations recognizable to his audience and turning some spots into must-visit centres of pilgrimage for his fans. Touring these precincts involves venturing into Almodóvar’s passionate, architectural world, by way of an alternative tourist guide to Madrid. We now retrace some of the most emblematic spots on a route which you can round off by viewing the films directed by the creator of Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown and jotting down new sites in your Almodovarian logbook.
Chicote Museum and La Bobia
One of the two bars that appear in Almodóvar’s films is the Chicote Museum, a chic cocktail bar with an eventful history sited on Madrid’s iconic Gran Vía. It opened in 1930 and its premises have been graced by a considerable number of contemporary stars and Hollywood classics, too. Its interior features in one of the main scenes of Broken Embraces, starring Blanca Portillo. La Bobia is another legendary meeting point in Madrid. It is hard by El Rastro flea market and was once a hotspot of La Movida (The Madrilenian scene). It was actually during those heady times that Almodóvar decided to set the opening scene of Labyrinth of Passion in La Bobia. The movie’s cast was headed by Imanol Arias and Cecilia Roth.
Cuartel del Conde Duque
A must-visit venue to see the spot where one of the Manchegan filmmaker’s most famous scenes was shot – when Carmen Maura takes a night-time shower with a hose in one of his masterpieces, Law of Desire. The scene was filmed in the doorway of the Cuartel del Conde Duque, one of Madrid’s largest and oldest palaces (it was built in 1717), which also boasts a highly valuable cultural and historical endowment. What’s more, once you’ve taken the snapshot de rigueur to relive Almodóvar’s shot, you can go inside and visit it, as it has been turned into a cultural centre featuring various temporary exhibitions throughout the year.
The M-30 Apartment Blocks
Pedro Almodóvar did not restrict himself to capturing only Madrid’s well-known city centre – he also turned his gaze to the suburbs. He did so in one of his best movies, the iconic What Have I Done to Deserve This? in which a long-suffering Carmen Maura is going through hell. She plays a woman who lives in one of the apartment blocks lining the M-30 motorway, a working-class residential area in the district of Moratalaz.
The Segovia Viaduct
One of the natural settings Almodóvar has used most often, both at the beginning of his career and even today. It appears in both Matador and the very recent I'm So Excited. In the latter, Paz Vega stars in an amusing scene shot against this backdrop. The Segovia Viaduct is located in Calle Bailén, near the Royal Palace, and is one of Madrid’s best known bridges.
Be sure to tour these Almodovarian settings – book your Vueling to Madrid here.
Text by Xavi Sánchez for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
more infoBeyond the Alhambra Moorish Granada
The Alhambra is Granada’s landmark par excellence – no one disputes that. That’s where we usually fix our gaze, be it from one of the viewpoints or cármenes thronging the Albaicín quarter, or when scouting its interior and being carried away by the marvels it holds, particularly the gorgeous ornamentation of its Nasrid palaces. While the Alhambra is the iconic symbol of the Moorish presence in the city, it is not the only vestige in Granada that points to its rich cultural heritage. The following routes are designed to encourage you to venture along some of the city’s streets in search of the Moorish footprint, which has survived the passage of time.
Route 1. The Albaicín
Separated from the Alhambra by the river Darro, and one of the best vantage points from which to view that monument, the Albaicín quarter reveals traces of its Arab past wherever you wander. Its narrow, winding streets, where you are certain to get lost in search of the famous San Nicolás viewpoint, contain traces which clearly reflect what was once the Medina of Granada. The cisterns, tasked with storing and distributing water throughout the city, which you will come across all over the Albaicín, are the first signs of the quarter’s Moorish legacy. Our first stop on this itinerary is the Carrera del Darro, opposite Cadí Bridge, the site of a small gem known as El Bañuelo. These 11th-century Arab baths are made up of three rooms which still preserve their original vaulting with octagonal and star-shaped skylights, as well as columns with Roman, Visigoth and caliphal capitals.
Just a stone’s throw from El Bañuelo, in the Portería de la Concepción, stands the Casa de Zafra, regarded as one of the finest examples of Nasrid domestic architecture. Built in the 14th century and now reconditioned as the Centro de Interpretación del Albaicín, its interior still features remains of the original murals.
Linking up with the Carrera del Darro again and continuing along the Paseo de los Tristes as far as Calle Horno de Oro you will come across the Casa Horno de Oro, built in the late-15th century. Yet another example of the architectural harmony associated with these homes, characterised by a rectangular patio with a cistern, with the rooms arranged around the lower side of it. The next stop on our tour is the road to Sacromonte, up the hill known as Cuesta del Chapiz, the site of the Casa del Chapiz, a Moorish house now converted into the School of Arabic Studies, the gardens of which afford magnificent views of the Alhambra.
Further up the Cuesta del Chapiz you come to Plaza del Salvador, where the High Mosque of the Albaicín once stood, the site of which is now taken up by the Church of El Salvador. Built in Mudéjar style, preserved in its interior is what was once the patio of ablutions of the former mosque, accessed from Calle Panaderos. A prominent feature of this peaceful backwater are the white-painted horseshoe arches, which stand out against the greenery of the lemon trees adorning the patio.
Having got this far, we recommend you take the opportunity to visit a classic landmark – the Mirador de San Nicolás (San Nicolás viewpoint). Enjoy the amazing views of the Alhambra, take a selfie for posterity and recoup your strength for the last stop on this itinerary, Dar-al-Horra Palace. Built in the 15th century on the site of a former, 11th-century Zirid palace, this was the retreat of the sultana Aisha and mother of Boabdil, the last king of Granada. This palace encapsulates the essence of Nasrid palaces, comprising a central patio with a water well around which the rooms are arranged, as are two porticoes along the shorter sides. Noteworthy is the north portico, boasting a viewing platform with splendid vistas of the Cerro de San Cristóbal.
We recommend rounding off the itinerary by having a cup of tea in one of the numerous tea shops studding the Calle Calderería Nueva. You will be forgiven if you get transported to some Arab city as you stroll along this street.
Route 2. “New Granada”
The neighbourhood known as Nueva Granada is laid out around Granada Cathedral, built on the site of the former High Mosque. The route starts at the Corral del Carbón, once a hostel for merchants which comprised an area for depositing their wares, rooms for resting in and stables for tethering their horses. From there we head to the Alcaicería, the former silk exchange, which still bears some resemblance to an Arab souq, despite having been gutted by fire in 1843 and rebuilt in romantic, neo-Arab style. It has now been reconditioned mainly as a venue for selling souvenirs of Granada.
Book your Vueling to Granada and venture along its streets in search of the city’s Moorish past.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
more infoFerrol, a Fortified Jewel Near La Coruña
One legend has it that the Breton saint St. Ferreol founded the city after landing there in a boat escorted by a choir of seven mermaids, but scholars still cannot agree on the origin of the name the city has been called since Medieval times.
History
The first people to settle in the area were Celts. And there is evidence of Phoenician and ancient Greek settlements, too. When the Romans conquered Hispania in the first century BC, a fishing village stood on the site of today’s city. Soon the locals began exporting preserved fish to the rest of the Roman Empire. The name “Ferrol” first appeared in church records in the year 1087, referring to a donation made by villagers to the nearby monastery of San Martín de Jubia.
From La Coruña
Ferrol has easy access to La Coruña, only 40 minutes’ distant --via a very scenic stretch of the AP-9 motorway, crossing the Eume river and others-- and to other towns in northern Galicia such as Villalba, Naró, and Ortigueira. You’ll see hills and extensive green meadowland crisscrossed by streamlets, along with panoramic views of the sea. You may wish to stop along the way at the Parque Natural Fragas do Eume, where you can admire Europe’s best-conserved Atlantic coastal woodlands, some 9,000 hectares of virgin forest. The triangular park, lying between the towns of As Pontes, Pontedeume and Monfero, will show you that “enchanted forest” isn’t just a figure of speech –you will expect to see elves and wood sprites frolicking amongst the ferns and lichens, and the springs and waterfalls, all under the leafy canopy of ash, alder, oak, and poplar trees, which the sun’s rays have difficulty penetrating in some spots. You might also visit the equally enchanting Caaveiro monastery, dating from the year 934, and which overlooks the forest.
A Stroll through the Magdalena District
Ferrol’s urban essence is concentrated in the old quarter, the Barrio de la Magdalena, a commercial and entertainment district featuring such Belle Époque jewels as the 1892 Jofre Theatre, the Magdalena Market, the 1923 fish market building called “La Pescadería”, the Casino Ferrolano (also erected in 1923), the Hotel Suizo (1916), and the Banco Hispano-Antigua Fonda Suiza (1909-1910). The rationalist, geometrically laid out district resembles Barcelona’s Ensanche, and at its extremes lie two broad squares, the Plaza de Amboage or, more properly, del Marqués de Amboage, and the Plaza de Armas). There are numerous 18th C. and 19th C. homes with fancy wrought-iron balcony railings on stone corbels and white, wood-framed glass-enclosed balconies, as well and modernist buildings from the early 20th C. The whole neighbourhood was designated as a protected cultural treasure in 1983. The main shopping streets are Real, Magdalena, Igrexa, Dolores, Galiano, and María. For tapas, drinks, and sit-down meals the calle del Sol is the place to go.
A Fortified City
Well worth visiting are the fortifications, whose construction began in the reign of Phillip II (b. 1527 d. 1598) that protected the city against attacks from the sea, including the San Felipe Castle, and the Arsenal, a unique building now housing the Naval Museum. It connects to the Magdalena neighbourhood via the ornate, neo-classical 1765 gateway known as the Porta do Dique.
The Spanish Armada
Ferrol has an important naval base and large military and civilian shipyards. Since the 15th it has been a key military installation, particularly during the heyday of the Spanish Empire, the first on which “the sun never set” –the Spanish Armada has both the discovery of America and the first circumnavigation of the world to its credit. Sea dogs, history buffs, and landscape lovers alike will find much to rave about in Ferrol. Perhaps you should book a flight to La Coruña with Vueling a take a closer look? Check out or flights here.
Report by Isabel y Luis Comunicación
Pictures by Juan Balsa, Diputación de A Coruña y Concello de Ferrol