A village where you can only access through a natural cave, the world's smallest beach, movie sets and ghost towns. Asturias hides extraordinary natural curiosities sheltered among an ecosystem of breathtaking beauty.

Cuevas del Agua and spectacular entry access

Near Ribadesella we find a curious village. Certainly, Cuevas del Agua ( Water Caves) is only accessible through a natural cave (The Cuevona) about 300 meters deep. The route, that can be done on foot or by car, is truly impressive, with its illuminated walls that show a work of natural art. Lichens, mosses, fungi and ferns are growing inside. And some bats, frogs and blind salamander are its occasional inhabitants.

The Beach Gulpiyuri

Near Naves we find another of those extraordinary curiosities. Gulpiyuri Beach is a gem of nature, declared National Monument. Gulpiyuri is said to be one of the smaller beaches in the world. It is a tiny beach with sea water but nestled inside the land, about 100 meters from the coast and between cliffs. It barely covers your waist when the tide is high and it almost disappears at low tide.

The Orphanage´s locations

Few miles from Naves, there is Llanes. There we find the main locations of the film The Orphanage, Juan Antonio Bayona. Here is the Palace of Partarríu, an abandoned Indian style mansion, whose exterior was used to recreate the mysterious house of its protagonists. But not its interior, which was shot on set.

Very near from this, there is Andrin Beach, which was also used as natural scenery in some scenes of the film.

Os Teixois. A ghost town

Near from Taramundi, we find the little village Os Teixois. An almost isolated village which was deserted some time ago, and that now has become an ethnographic tourism centre. At Os Teixois we discover all sorts of gadgets moved by the force of water, a lovely riverside bar to drink Asturian cider and a peaceful rural environment.

All this in a peaceful and beautiful natural landscape of Asturias to get lost and discover its history.

Playa de Gulpiyuri by Ramon Diaz | La Cuevona by Ramón  | Os Teixois by Lourdes

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Copious meals at Picos de Europa

It’s not a secret that Picos de Europa is a great place to eat. Only in the area of Cabrales, over 40 types of cheese are prepared, being the region in Europe with a greater variety.

It was clear that, before we feast on great food, we needed to make some kind of effort, first. The most common route to follow in the area is at Cares, uphill at the beginning but nice and relaxed the rest of the way. Is almost like a baptism to trekking, much frequented on the weekends.

We opt to follow the route from Poncebos to Bulnes, an uphill and amusing where we meet mountain goats several times. Bulnes is a small village, the only place in Asturias that is not accessible by car. There are many houses here but most of them are bars, inns and restaurants where you can eat very well. We tried delicious fabes and other specialties from the province, like a pot of octopus and potatoes, the small chorizos with cider and the scorpion fish cake.

Trying the best fabada in the world (and a great cachopo)

By chance, right next to the hotel where we were staying in Villaviciosa there is Bedriñana cider bar, which was awarded in 2014 for the ‘best fabada in the world’. That is something very remarkable in Asturias!

The fabada, obviously, was delicious and, to top it off, as a second course we ordered a cachopo to share. Cachopo (or cachopu) is a very typical dish from Asturian cuisine, only suitable to resistant stomachs. It is made of two veal filets that can be filled with cheese, ham or other ingredients. Furthermore, wine plus a side dish of potatoes, pepper and mushrooms. The two of us couldn’t even finish the half of the dish.

Then is when we realised that you have to be very careful when you order a dish. If an Asturian waiter tells you that you’re not ordering enough, be prepared. A big feeding feast is awaiting you.

For the great seafood, go to Tazones

Close to Villaviciosa, Tazones has the essence of a fishermen town, with pretty cobblestone streets and low-lying houses with colourful balconies, and is the place to go to eat great seafood and fish. The choices and quality are immense, any of the restaurants in town is provided by local fisheries.

Delicious cocktails in Gijón

We took advantage of a quick visit to Gijón to try some cocktails at one of the most frequented places in town. Its name is Varsovia and can be located by San Lorenzo avenue, exactly at Cabrales, 18, in an iconic historical building with an interior of eclectic decoration and a great variety of furniture, from Chester sofas to old wooden furniture. The large windows provide the best views over Gijón beach.

The menu includes a great variety of cocktails, provided in an unbeatable atmosphere and with a great music selection to enjoy.

The cider: customs & practices

A different matter is cider, the Asturian drink by excellence, and how it must be served. Cider in Asturias usually costs no more than 3€ each bottle, with a dark green colour and usually purchased to be shared. It has low alcohol content so you can order many and still remain not too much drunk.

The technique to pour cider usually leads to funny moments, especially among beginners who waste more cider than what is served. It is necessary to pour the cider right in the border of the glass, to enhance the flavour and smell when it mixes with the oxygen from the glass. When the cider is served you should ask ¿quién bebe? (“who drinks?”) and the glass must be empty in one sip or two, not more. It can be considered impolite to keep the cider for too long in the glass, because it loses the properties.

If you are not good at pouring cider, you better ask the waiter to serve you a “culín” or “culete”. If you dare to pour it yourself, you should know that the stream should be as high as possible and break right at the border of the glass. You don’t want to shower the rest of the diners.

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Asturias is a natural paradise, with a great variety of landscapes. Maybe that is the reason why many film directors chose this region to shoot the scenes of their movies.

But one of the towns with a bigger amount of film locations is Llanes, a beautiful fishing village with a medieval origin. The old quarter has being conserved perfectly and the location between the sea and the mountain makes that, in a little area, many different landscapes can be found.

At the historic quarter the Tower or the walls from the 13th century stand out, also the Basilica or many palaces and mansions, originally from the 16th to the 18th century. This area was used to film Spanish movies like "Porque te vi llorar" or "Los jinetes del alba".

Other remarkable sports in Llanes are the avenue Paseo de San Pedro, where José Luis Garci’s "Historia de un beso" was filmed in 2002, The Memory Cubes by Basque artist Agustín Ibarrola, the fortress, San Antón avenue, the lighthouse, the Aula del Mar or the beaches in Sablón, Puerto Chico and Toró.

There is also an interesting sample of Indianan architecture like the Casino or the Partarriú palace, the same mansion that Juan Antonio Bayona used to film The Orphanage that can be found as you get to Llanes.

By the east of Llanes, we get to the golf field of Andrín, where the movie "Mi nombre es sombra" (1966), by Gonzalo Suárez was filmed. In front of the field, there is a little way that leads to the Boriza viewpoint and by the cliffs where "El abuelo" was filmed. This offers a terrace above the sea, with a great panoramic view over Andrín and Cué beaches. The area has great beauty and other paths along the cliffs make this place the perfect spot for trekking. This is when you realize that following film locations is just an excuse or a reason to enjoy the beautiful landmarks in Asturias.

The film route along the west area of Llanes is equally beautiful. You’ll pass by the Pría jesters from the movie "La Señora" (1987) by Jordi Cadena. The jesters are breaches in the rocks and the sea waters goes through creating fountains that can reach several meters high.

The cemetery in Niembru, along to the Church of Nuestra Señora de los Dolores, make a beautiful spot where scenes from the movies "La Señora", "Epílogo" or "El abuelo" where filmed.

In total, there are about 25 locations where 42 sequences from 18 different films, 3 TV-shows and 1 short film were shot. This is divided in three different routes around the town of Llanes, east and west. Explanatory panels in every spot explain the technical remarks of the scene and will help you to orientate.

Llanes has invested a lot of effort in this initiative, along with film meetings, screenings, Q&A with the directors or live music from movie soundtracks.

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Here are some routes we have planned around these exemplary villages:

Eastern Charm – First Stopover

Our unique, Asturian cultural itinerary starts at the easternmost village, San Esteban de Cuñaba, with its high-mountain scenery, footpaths, houses and inhabitants. From here, you can also get a view of the Picos de Europa, the first national park in Spain. It is renowned for its shepherding community which has been living here for hundreds of years. They make such cheeses as Gamonéu and Cabrales, celebrated gems on the international cheese map. The village of Porrúa (Llanes), for its part, is the veritable guardian of Asturian traditions. It features an Ethnographic Museum which records much of these, as well as the Mercáu Astur, a bagpipe ensemble called El Llacín and the bucolic Llanisco village landscape facing both the sea and the Picos de Europa mountains.

From Apple Groves to Cider – Food and Shelter

Both Villaviciosa and Nava have large stretches of pomaradas or apple groves, as well as llagares – places where cider is made and gastronomic festivals called espichas are held–and chigres, typical bars or restaurants offering dishes based on the Asturian tradition. As if that isn’t enough, in Nava we also find the Museo de la Sidra (Cider Museum) where we can steep ourselves in the enthralling universe of cider. At Sariego, another award-winning village, we can taste good cider and haute cuisine. If we take the pilgrim’s walk along the road to Santiago, here we’ll be treated to the finest rural Asturian Romanesque architecture. And, if we’re out caleyando (roaming around), we might arrive at Cabranes and even Torazo, another award-winning village. The route through the Cider District will take us to within a stone’s throw of the sea, to one of the most charming seafaring towns of the north –Lastres– also an award-winner, where we can delight in its views, its atmosphere and its indispensable seafood cuisine.

Symphony of Summits in the Montaña Central and the Nalón Valley – a Break in the Journey

Amid the symphony of summits, mountains, valleys, rivers and forests of the Montaña Central, this journey will lead us to Jomezana and the Huerna Valley, in the heart of Lena. And, from here to Morcín and on to La Foz, to savour its cheeses – including its stunning “Afuega’l Pitu” – its turnips and its scenery. Pressing on through this district we come to Aller and Moreda, where every 11 November the “Fiesta de los Humanitarios” is naturally celebrated by sitting down to a typical feast of fabada bean stew. To top it off, we can stop at Bueño, to view an impressive line-up of hórreos (granaries raised on pillars). The river Nalón, the longest in Asturias, imbues the valley with life. The high note is Sobrescobio, a model neighbourhood community where you are just as likely to stumble upon a madreña – a type of footwear – as a capercaillie, all set against an idyllic rural backdrop.

Camín Real de la Mesa – the Roman Road that Connects us Along this Route

The Camín Real de la Mesa was one of the most important Roman roads connecting the Meseta to the Cordillera Cantábrica range. It was after this road that a splendid district was named, with municipal territories like Somiedo or Teverga where the Cantabrian brown bear roams freely. About ten years ago, the village of Villar de Vildas in the Somiedo municipality was also endowed with the royal award. In Teverga, which was listed as of 2013, mining and stockbreeding are still the major activities. Don’t miss a tour of their Parque de la Prehistoria (Prehistoric Park).

Enchanting Eo and the Magic of the Vaqueiros – a Western Stopover

The Eo ría (estuary) is much more than just a natural divide between Asturias and Galicia – its beauty and biodiversity vivifies an entire Biosphere Reserve. There, Castropol, another model village, faces both the sea and the hinterland; it is an ideal spot for chilling out, playing sport and indulging in its superb cuisine. Further inland, San Tirso de Abres,also a listed village, is an oasis of peace and tranquility. In contrast, Los Vaqueiros de Alzada, a livestock and transhumant village par excellence, gave its name to a district which features a number of interesting stopovers along our route –Soto de Luiña and Novellana, in Cudillero, contribute their enticing pastures and coastal villages of western Asturias. Turning inland, we come across the secluded Valle de Paredes (Valley of Walls) and the river Esva, in Valdés. And, further inland, we arrive at two villages of Tineo studded with character and history – Tuña,the land of General Riego, and Navelgas, well-known for its gold-panning tradition.

Fuentes del Narcea, Degaña, Ibias and the River Navia – the Final Stage

The district of Narcea, Degaña and Ibias has been famed for its mineral wealth since ancient times, a land of pure air and valiant people whose exploits and love of their land have made them a legend. We are approaching the last few stopovers in this unique tour of Asturias. Highly recommended is a visit to Grandas de Salime, the Principality’s ethnographic and military preserve, Boal – the latest village to be listed – and Puerto de Vega, by now on the seaboard. Don’t forget to take a last look at the Cantabrian Sea before you leave, and what better place to do so than Puerto de Vega? This has been a journey with a difference which has led us to come close to a genuine Asturias and its vital essence.

Further information at Turismoasturias

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