Ámsterdam por Panenka
Text by Aitor Lagunas | @aitorlagunas
Ilustration by Pep Boatella @pepboatella
Idealized goal for the European adolescence, Amsterdam is also the perfect destination for a weekend walking among cobbled streets and canals. Home and birthplace of the legendary Ajax and of Netherlands’s total football exhibited in Euro’88, this city also offers places that make it a treasure for the football culture.
SPORTING ELEVEN
1 Olympic Stadium | Designed by Jan Wils -founder of the movement De Stijl along with Piet Mondrian- hosted the 1928 Games.
2 Coffee Jonkhart | 1894: three students come together and they founded the Footh-Ball Club Ajax (misspelling included), predecessor of toda’s Ajax.
3 Museumplein | If you travel to Amsterdam just when Ajax wins an Eredivisie, you may celebrate it at the Rijksmuseum’s park.
4 Meer Stadium | Ajacied home demolished in 1996. The streets surrounding are named after football stadiums. Bernabeu, corner with Prater.
5 Cruyff | He was born at the Civil Hospital in 1947. He grew up in the Betondorp’s neighborhood, near to Meer, where his parents ran a fruit shop.
6 Amsterdamsche Hockey Club | it has more than 2,000 members and has won the last two leagues in Dutch’s other national sport.
7 Voldenpark | Here you will watch football games as well as play them. At this park, sided games are played during the weekend.
8 Oude West | Gullit, Rijkaard or Bergkamp grew In De Baarsjes’s neighborhood. Van Gaal, however, is from the other side of town …
9 FC Amsterdam | Ajax’s local hegemony had only opponent in the ’70s, when FC came to play European competition. Now is amateur.
10 Amsterdam Arena | Since 1996, Ajax finally has the stadium it deserves. Inaugurated the consumist version in the soccer fields.
11 Copa | A brand created by a former player in order to wear ingenious shirts about football. The shop is worth a visit.
TOURISTIC ELEVEN
A Rijksmuseum | Reopened in 2013, offers a wide collection of flamenco painters, led by Rembrandt and Johannes Vermeer.
B Heineken Museum | It all started when Gerard Adriaan Heineken met a disciple of Pasteur. Today is Netherlands’s beer.
C Flowers Market | Tulips, national symbol, are the focus of this charming market between channels. An ecological and cheap souvenir.
D A Jordaan Festival | In Amsterdam’s trendiest neighborhood, there’s room in September for street concerts and food stalls.
E Canal Parade | Just before, on the first Saturday in August, a water caravan runs through the city canals with pride
F Ane Frank´s House | After visiting it, one still not understand what threat might suppose that girl who dreamed of being a writer.
G MacBike | Maybe the best way to explore a city with few avenues and many alleyways. And certainly, the native way.
H Red Light District | Around the oldest church in the city have been crowding nightspots, in a strange urban combination.
I National Library | It is one of the architectural emblems of new Amsterdam. It has a cafe on the terrace.
J Coffeshop | Attention: Dutch liberals are wiping out the classic destination for all stoner teenagers. There is still some places.
K Dam Square | City center. Every few minutes spanish-spoken tours depart from it for very little money.
Text by Aitor Lagunas | @aitorlagunas
Ilustration by Pep Boatella @pepboatella
So you feel like visiting Amsterdam, do you? Book your flights here!
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Milan World Design and Fashion Capital
Milan is one of the world’s leading production centres of design, creativity and fashion, which are also its major draws for visitors. Suffice to stroll along the Via Monte Napoleone and the Via della Spiga, two of the landmark shopping precincts, and you will likely be left open-mouthed at the splendid stage setting of the shop windows. No wonder, then, that Milan is the headquarters of such fashion labels as Armani, Prada, Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, Etro, and Miu Miu. Following is our selection of the year’s foremost events which all fashion and design devotees should be including in their schedule and experiencing for themselves.
Milan Design Week
From 4 to 9 April,Milan hosts the Salone del Mobile Milano, one of the major showcases for the latest trends in design, innovation, decoration and creativity each year. Aside from the trade fair itself, which will test your stamina when it comes to traipsing through pavilions and visiting stands, where you will also have to put up with long queues, all the presentations which the firms stage in parallel come under the umbrella of the so-called Fuorisalone. The latter, which is held at a host of venues scattered about the city, enables you to visit (by invitation, on certain occasions) splendid private palaces duly turned into perfect stages for the occasion. These are veritable extravaganzas, at which the stage setting is key, particularly when showcasing the latest trends in design.
The city devotes itself wholeheartedly to the cause for the duration of the fair, when Milan is inundated both by the leading labels that turn up to showcase their wares, and the hordes of visitors from all over the world, who come ready to marvel at the latest in design trends. It is worth bearing in mind that the sheer volume of people flocking to the city has the effect of markedly driving up the prices of accommodation for those few days, so it is essential to prepare your trip well beforehand to avoid unpleasant last-minute surprises.
Milan Fashion Week
This last February the city hosted the latest Milan Fashion Week, when the great names in Italian fashion revealed the cutting-edge trends for the 2017-2018 autumn-winter season. Make a point of attending the forthcoming edition, scheduled for20 to 27 September,during which the catwalks will again be thronged with the most stylish designs, destined to impact the fads we hang in our wardrobes for the 2018 summer season.
Fashion and Design Beyond the Events
You don’t need to visit Milan during these two events to discover how eminently centre-stage fashion and design are in the capital of Lombardy. As we mentioned earlier, merely wandering down the city’s main shopping precincts is truly rewarding on the eyes and a unique opportunity to go on a shopping spree where you can pick up the latest trends.
Another area you should include in your itinerary in the city while hunting for contemporary trends is Brera, a neighbourhood which is at once bohemian and chic and which oozes design wherever you go. Its design studios, and its shop fronts and interiors, will make you feel you have stepped into a fashion magazine. So, be sure to stroll along its streets and soak up the sights. And, you will find the perfect spot for restoring your energy at God Save The Food, an eatery sited in the sunny Piazza del Carmine, flanked by the brickwork-based Neo-gothic Church of Santa Maria del Carmine.
Book your Vueling to Milan and enjoy the very best of international design and Italian fashion.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Salone del Mobile Milano, Luca Nebuloni
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Gràcia A District With a Special Flavour
No district of Barcelona has the flavour and personality of Gràcia. The area brings together artists, long-standing neighbours, design and fashion stores and some of the city’s liveliest restaurants and bars. A perennial mix of traditional values and the latest trends, Gràcia is always up with the pulse of the times, yet retains the essence that makes it the favourite haunts of many Barceloners.
As we love strolling leisurely through the area and taking in the atmosphere, we hit the streets to unearth the seven must-visit venues – shops, bars and restaurants – for tapping into the true heartbeat of Gràcia.
Magnesia
Leticia, the owner of Magnesia, draws on the work of local and international artists, showcased in what is one of the best graphic stores in town. The prints rub shoulders with ceramics from the United States, cushions by Shara Porter and jewellery by craftsmen and women from Barcelona. You will be enamoured of this venue and are bound to emerge with something under your arm.
Can Tresó
Located on one of Gràcia’s major thoroughfares, the Can Tresó restaurant can go by unnoticed from the outside. But, once you’ve dined there, you will never forget its presence. The tapas are great – the patatas bravas outstanding – and the signature menu of the day on weekdays is really delicious.
La Mueblerí
This vintage-look store is run by a mother and son. With their finely tuned selection of furniture and other objects, it’s easy to fall for a Scandinavian sideboard, a Vitra table from the 70s or a Manises lamp. What’s more, you can find both designer pieces and other reasonably priced wares to suit all budgets. The premises are spacious and well decorated. Here you breathe closeness, delicateness and good taste, which makes it quite special.
Viblioteca
This is a classic among lovers of cheese, sausage, tartare and good food. Done out in white lines, this restaurant is undoubtedly one of the finest in Barcelona when it comes to discovering new wines and pairing them with a first-class culinary selection. We recommend you talk to Yolanda, the owner, and let her suggest what to order.
Alzira
Mónica is one of the veterans of vintage in the Gràcia district. Her exquisite sense of taste manifests in a combination of industrial and rustic furniture with some designer pieces, all imbued with a Bochic aesthetic, making this a must-visit store for antique hunters in Barcelona. The bright, airy premises include a patio where one could relax for hours, if one had the time. The furniture and decoration section is rounded off by a frankly irresistible area featuring retro brooches.
Bobby Gin
Going out for a drink in Gràcia at night would never be the same without Bobby Gin. This sophisticated bar serves some of the best gin tonics in Barcelona. Care has been lavished on their decor, down to the last detail, with restored antique doors, and vintage and industrial furniture. But, what makes this venue unique is the large selection of premium gins and tonics. If you are hard put to make a choice, the staff – who really know their stuff – will help you decide. And, if you’d like something to nibble on, themini-coques de Llavaneras pastries are a delicacy you should make a point of tasting.
Casa Atlántica
Hand-painted ceramic crockery, wooden miniatures and retro lamps are some of the items you can find in Casa Atlántica. A store-workshop full of charm opened by the fashion designer, Belén Martínez, and the Portuguese interior designer, Lester Barreto. The interior is unmistakeably Atlantic in appearance and is redolent with priceless details and furniture designed by the owners themselves, transporting you from the Mediterranean to the other side of the Peninsula.
Book your Vueling to Barcelona and venture into Gràcia, to be seduced by its charm.
Text by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
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10 bites of Lyon (with Paul Bocuse’s permission)
By Josep Sucarrats from Gastronomistas
The fact that in Lyon you can eat like nowhere else in the world has been known since time immemorial. But it was Curnonsky, a renowned food critic from the early 20th century, who first said it in black and white. In 1925, following the construction of the N-25 road linking Paris to the Mediterranean coast, he set about creating a travel guide for lovers of fine cuisine. In Lyon, Curnonsky discovered foies, cheeses, wines and sweets. He was seduced by the ‘bouchon’ (local version of the famous French bistros) and succumbed to the flavours cooked up by the mères. The mères were women chefs with unrivalled culinary skills. People in Lyon regard them as the heart and soul of local cuisine.
The city’s culinary legend was born and there was no going back. The fusion of great produce and even greater chefs gave substance to Lyon’s status as an international capital of good food. This fact was ultimately driven home by a top chef famous the world over: Paul Bocuse.
Today, the mark left by of Paul Bocuse, his imposing countenance, tall white chef’s hat and authoritative look can still be found all around Lyon. In his four restaurants, in the photos of market stalls in Les Halles where he gets supplies – did we say Les Halles? Let’s get it right: a couple of months ago, it was renamed Les Halles Paul Bocuse— or in the dreams of anyone from Lyon who has yet to visit his legendary L’Auberge de Pont de Collognes.
Very soon, from 6 to 9 December, the capital of the Rhone-Alpes region will be celebrating its famous festival of lights, when all the city’s monuments are lit up to create spectacular artistic performances. A great excuse to visit Lyon and indulge yourself in this culinary paradise.
1-An authentic ‘bouchon’: Café des Fédérations
We haven’t eaten at every ‘bouchon’ in Lyon, far from it, but we have eaten here and it has to be one of the best and most authentic in the city. We recommend going there when you’re very hungry: traditional Lyon cuisine is very rich and hearty. As an aperitif, pork crackling. For first course, poached egg au vin with crackling or endive frise with crackling (so much crackling!). Lentils: “it’s not caviar, but still”, they warned us (they came in a mustard sauce and were simply delicious). That’s settled then: lentils are good and caviar is overrated. Chicken with vinegar or pike soufflé. Cheeses. Sweets. Such a banquet encompasses the very best of authentic Lyon cuisine, superbly prepared and with two further enticements. The first is Yves, the owner, the restauranteur who awaits you in his house, who serves you, who wines and dines you and is so friendly you’d ask him to share your table. And the second: the prices (€15 for the set lunch menu and €25 for the set evening menu).
Café des Fédérations. 8, 9, 10 rue Major Martin. Tel. 00 33 4 78 28 26 00.
2-A gastronomic monument: poulet en démi-deuil
The prices may not be its greatest attraction (after all, this restaurant does have two Michelin stars), but, if you can afford it, you really should treat yourself. They don’t serve just any old dish! Poulet en démi-deuiles is a veritable orgy for the taste buds. Imagine free-range poultry raised on the finest farms near Bresse, well fed, meaty and tender, imbued with the taste and aroma of real truffles. The recipe consists of stuffing the space between the skin and the meat with sliced truffles. You have to be a glutton….for pleasure! Poulet en démi-deuiles (which means something like ‘chicken in half mourning’) is what made the first female chef to be awarded three Michelin stars famous. That was back in the 1930s and the chef in question was Eugénie Brazier. Eugénie, a motherless, illiterate country girl, had a very strong character indeed. The walls of Lyon still shudder whenever a chicken comes out of the oven overcooked. Paul Bocuse learnt his trade at her legendary restaurant, La Mère Brazier. Today, it is owned by master chef Mathieu Viannay who, along with his innovative creations, has kept many dishes of his illustrious predecessor on the menu. He’d never dream of forsaking the poulet en démi-deuiles that has enticed so many celebrities to Lyon.
La Mère Brazier. 12 rue Royale. Tel. 00 33 4 78 23 17 20
3-Choose from a 3-take menu with one eye on Japan: Do-Mo
Lyon’s gastronomic heritage, popular or bourgeois, is so mega famous, so legendary the world over and, at the same time, so full of itself, it’s hard to ignore. Yet a short stroll along the city centre streets, even with blinkers on, shows us that Japanese cuisine is fast gaining a foothold. It must appeal to the locals because Japanese restaurants are opening all over the city. Here’s our recommendation for a rather unique experience. At Do-Mo, the produce on offer is given three takes: French, Franco-Japanese or Japanese. So you can, for instance, order your beef French style, with a hint of wasabi for that touch of fusion, or in a 100% Japanese tataki. And the same applies to their three takes on spring rolls, sea bream or chocolate, to give a few examples. Do-Mo provides an ultra-modern setting in the new neighbourhood that has sprung up along the banks of the Saône. During the day, it offers picture-postcard views. At night, it’s teeming with beautiful people. On a nice day, it would be a crime not to enjoy its delightful terrace. And any evening visit simply must end in its fashion lounge next door. As well as the a la carte menu, it also has two set menus: €49.50 and €39.50. It even has a kids’ menu, which they don’t actually call “kids’ menu” and doesn’t consist of sausage, chips and beans. It’s called the Jeune Gastronome and includes a dish from the 3-take menu plus a dessert for €12.
Do-Mo. 45, quai Rambaud. Tel. 00 33 4 37 23 09 23
4-Cheesemakers: Let’s try some Saint-marcellin!
Many shops in Presq’île — i.e. the Peninsula, which is the popular name for the area of Lyon between the rivers Saône and Rhône — as well as numerous market stalls in Les Halles, showcase the fact that people from Lyon are also mad about cheese. The most typical local cheese is Saint-marcellin, a soft cheese with a fermented crust and made from cow’s milk. You can find this cheese and many more besides at La Mère Richard, a famous cheese stall at Les Halles, whose owner is an expert at recommending cheeses for her customers, uses only the finest suppliers and has a colourful character to rival even Madamme Brazier herself. The women from Lyon would seem to be as intriguing as the cheese: we love it. Both the intrigue and, especially, the cheese.
Mère Richard. Les Halles Paul Bocuse. Tel. 00 33 4 78 62 30 78
5-Cool lodgings: bed and breakfast at Mama Shelter
We all need to rest. Lyon is a city of commerce full of comfortable hotels, it’s easy to find somewhere to stay. But if you chance upon somewhere unusual, all the better. If you like to feel cool, look no further. Mama Shelter is the hotel for you. The staff are young and friendly. Each room has a Mac screen displaying a personal welcome message. The clientele are all easy-going and take full advantage of the hotel’s nighttime DJ sessions as well as the wholesome breakfasts. Despite its loud colour scheme and hip decor (which we don’t dislike), the dining room at Mama Shelter transmits a decidedly zen-like ambience which helps set the mood and opens your appetite for the days’ gastronomic tour. While it may not be located in the most central area, it is well connected by underground, bus, tram and trolleybus. Lyon pulls out all the stops when it comes to public transport.
Mama Shelter. 13, rue Domer. Tel. 00 33 4 78 02 58 00
6-Stop off at a cake shop and buy a cream puff
Lyon is also the perfect destination for those with a sweet tooth. Among the many treats on offer, one stands out above the rest. They are light as air with a creamy filling. Need more clues? Ok, just one more. They are made from choux pastry and usually come with a cream or truffle filling. You got it, cream puffs and profiteroles. Yet Lyon’s choux pastries are the same as you’d find in any French city, such as Toulouse, or Courbevoie, to use the birthplace of Louis de Funes as an example. Lyon does, however, have its own local sweet treats, such as coussins (literally, pillows) or cocons (literally, cocoons). One option is to sample these traditional specialities. Another, which we highly recommend, is to drool over the tasty treats on display at Clostan Traiteur. And, once you’ve finished drooling, you can buy and enjoy exquisite cakes, mousse, tiramisu and a thousand variations on traditional desserts, which led to this master confectioner’s being named the best in the world in 2012.
Clostan Traiteur. Magasin Halle Paul Bocuse. Tel. 00 33 4 78 62 93 03
7-Quenelles never seen (or eaten)
Lyon may be far from the sea, but its inhabitants have always enjoyed eating fish. Back in the middle ages, some local monks created artificial pools in order to farm pike. Today, the area has been turned into a nature reserve. But let’s get to the point: this ensured a plentiful supply of fish, and with one kind in particular — pike, or brochet in French — they created the quenelles that are so typical of Lyon. They are usually made with choux pastry mixed with wheat pasta, butter, eggs, milk and, of course, brochet. The chef uses two spoons to shape the mixture into semicircles, which explains why everyone associates this shape with quenelles. They can be so big that one alone is a meal in itself. Other times they’re smaller, so you can try lots of different kinds. At Giraudet, they give them their own creative touch – adding squid ink and other innovative ingredients – leading to long queues of people anxious to buy them.
Giraudet. Les Halles Paul Bocuse. Tel. 00 33 4 78 62 34 05
Giraudet. 2, rue du Cl Chambonnet. Tel. 00 33 4 72 77 98 58
8-Jesus! We’re not being blasphemous, it’s a kind of salami
Cold sausage deserves a chapter all to itself in any good food guide to Lyon. While the city’s sausage makers use recipes that share a common base, they all add their own special touch, so you won’t find two establishments selling the same thing. This special touch is a closely guarded secret that gives each sausage a unique personality. Basically, it’s all about aromatic herbs and spices. Some of the more popular varieties include cerveuil (which must be cooked, contains pistachos and, in its more luxurious form, truffles), saucisson a cuire (literally, sausage to cook), rosette (a long, slender cured sausage) and, above all, Jesus. The cured sausage known as Jesus is made from the widest part of the intestine and gets its name from the fact that, during the production process, it is wrapped in twine which, according to legend, gave it a quality reminiscent of baby Jesus. Who would have thought? What we do know is that it’s Lyon’s greatest cold sausage and that any Jesus like this makes even the most hardened atheist pray for more.
9-Browse around the market and have lunch there
There’s Bresse chicken. There’s foie. There’s truffle. There’s cheese. There’s wine. Lovers of good food be warned, if you enter Lyon market, you’re doomed. You’ll no doubt come away with a little more cholesterol and a little less money. But that’s the cross we foodies have to bear! To avoid breaking the bank or punishing your taste buds, we suggest that you stay at Les Halles for lunch, where there’s something to suit every pocket. We’re huge fans of Passionnement Truffes, a small bistro inside the market where truffles rule supreme. At lunchtime, they offer an affordable set menu for €19 (dish of the day — a big serving —, dessert and a glass of wine). We had the tenderest chicken ever covered in mushroom sauce. And it filled us with bonheur.
Passionnement Truffes. Les Halles Paul Bocuse. Tel. 00 33 4 78 60 15 98
10-Le beaujolais est arrivé!
The area around Lyon is famous for its wines, boasting no less than four denominations of origin. Beaujolais is one, and it’s been made popular thanks to the beaujolais noveaux, the first wine of the year, the youngest wine. It’s uncorked barely two or three months after harvest (between November and December) and fussier wine lovers will tell you that it’s not worth the effort, since it’s better to let wine age. But the anticipation of wine growers to try the first fruits of their labours infects all of us as well. Let’s hope we’re never deprived of the chance to raise a toast, cry out Le beaujolais est arrivé! and celebrate the fact that we, and our taste buds, have fallen in love with Lyon. And such love lasts forever.
Makes you want to go, right? Do it! Check out our prices here!
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