Sinterklaas. A boat arriving from Madrid?
I’ve never heard about the Dutch tradition of Sinterklaas, since not long ago. It’s funny and charming, also pretty controversial. For many years, every December 5th a Dutch friend of mine gathers us at her place to celebrate it; she explains where the tradition comes from, we sing the Dutch traditional songs the best we can and eat the typical sweets from these dates.
There is no doubt that this is the most anticipated day in the year for the Dutch kids because, as night arrives, Zwarte Piet (Peter) will get down the chimney to deliver presents if they behaved well. Before that, they must leave a shoe, a carrot for the white horse named Amerigo and a drawing that shows how well they have behaved.
This is when the mess starts. First of all, according to the tale, Sinterklaas comes from Madrid by boat… “Wait, what?! This makes no sense. From Madrid to Amsterdam, by boat? What the hell?”
The tale says Sinterklaas (Saint Nicholas) comes originally from Turkey and once he died, the remains were taken to Bari, in the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies, where Charles V would be the king. Once Philip II became his successor in the Kingdom, which covered the Low Countries, Spain and the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies, the story was taken to Spain, specifically Madrid, as the starter of the trip, to make it simpler.
“¿Don’t you think Peter, the ‘assistant’ as a black person is a bit racist?” Apparently, many controversial voices argued that ‘Zwarte Piet is racisme’, which means that Peter, Sinterklaas assistant, being a black person was racist. After that, Peter’s color have changed annually, from blue to red to yellow. Other people argue that Peter is black because of the pollution in the chimneys. Both options set great debates in the Netherlands.
Finally, my friend says that when they’re kids and they behaved wrongly, the tradition was to say "Sinterklaas will take you to Madrid.” I was like “Whatever. What kind of punishment is that?”
Sinterklaas in the Netherlands
It’s clear that Sint’s arrival to the Netherlands is a great event, with many parades previously. On December 5th, at night, families gather at home to sing, read poems and make little presents.
Every year, a Dutch city is chosen to broadcast the Sinterklaas parade on national television, an event followed my many people. This year, the chosen city is Gouda, by the north of Rotterdam, known as the origin of a world-famous cheese.
But Amsterdam is the city with the greatest Sinterklaas parade. He arrives by boat along the Amstel river and to the Maritime Museum, where is received by the Major of the city on Sunday, November 16th. With him, great amounts of cookies to deliver to kids and many different Peters to assist him, like Book Peter, who takes a big book with notes of what all the kids want, there is also absent-minded Peter, Peter the acrobat or Gifts Peter.
Sinterklaas sweets
These delicious cookies that Sint brings are called pepernoten, what means spiced walnuts. They are small and have a very intense caramel and ginger flavour. There is also the to speculaas, with Christmas or Sinterklaas related pictures and made of many spiced and cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, ginger, cardamom and white pepper.
Other typical sweets from Sinterklaas are chocolade letter, big letters made of chocolate that are usually gifted with the initial capital letter of your name, or schuimpjes, with funny forms and colours.
Pictures Sinterklaas by MarkDB and Michell Zappa
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This fascinating city, the cradle of Greek mythology and philosophy, offers an endless number of magical places to visit. We recommend to start at the Temple of Olympian Zeus, where tickets can be bought to visit the set of archaeological landscape. With this ticket, you can then go to the Acropolis, also known as”high city” and the Agora, the ancient center of commercial activity and culture.
As it is one of the longer tours, it is ideal to start early in the morning: the pedestrian area around theAcropolis has a length of 3.5 kilometers, we will access
from Dionissiou Aeropagitou street, where we can also admire numerous buildings of neoclassical style and some more modern buildings, very elegant and stately. Once inside the Acropolis, we will find Dionysus Theater (the oldest in the world), among other interesting sites.
Once the tour has finished on the highest part of the city, it is recomendable to go to the neighborhood of Monastiraki to rest and recharge in one of its taverns or in any of the traditional restaurants and finish the tour in the Agora. In winter it is more appropriate to do the route in reverse (first of all you can visit the Agora and then the Acropolis, as the Agora closes its doors at three p.m.). The picturesque Ifestou street can be found in the surroundings of the Monastiraki square, a street full of old little shops selling furniture, second hand books and all sort of things which it is worth to take a look at.
It is indispensable to visit the motley Palka neighbourhood, located in the old town, to immerse in the Athens heart and taste some of their typical dishes like a delicious moussaka or the souvlaki. On the other hand, Psiri is a less touristy neighbourhood due to the austerity of its buildings and streets. Nevertheless it has a buzzing nightlife, as it is a vibrant neighborhood in continuous motion.
Syntagma Square is a must see as it houses two iconic Athens monuments, The Hellenic Parliament and The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier where the National Guard always patrol clad in their fustanella uniforms and also accompanied by a military band on Sundays.
Mount Lycabettu, known as The Wolves Hill, offers the best panoramic view of the city and you can see both, the islands of Salamis and Aegina, the Attica’s basin, from there. From Cape Sounion (where according to the legend, Aegean was launched to the sea), you can enjoy an enigmatic and breathtaking sunset that captivates the senses
Meteora por Evlahos
If you have spare time and want to finish this journey with one of the most beautiful visual spectacles of the world, we recommend you going to Delphi (declared World Heritage site by Unesco and considered the center of the universe in the ancient times) and also visit The Meteora mountains near the town of Kalabaka. Meteora is characterized by its rock formations that look like meteorite fallen from the sky. In the summits of The Meteora mountains we find the Orthodox monasteries build by the hermits living in the IX century to protect them from the Turkish invasion five centuries later.
By Blanca Frontera
Picture by Ferengi
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more infoGoing for tapas in la Barceloneta
Enjoy a tasty tapa of fried anchovies, calamari or brava potatoes in the bars of one of the best-known districts of Barcelona: la Barceloneta.
Can Maño
One of those bars that has been passed down the family. Its lack of signs means the entrance can easily go unnoticed. The tapas are eaten on a melamine table, the plates and glasses are straight out of the school canteen, the toilet is poky, they take no reservations and do not accept plastic. They don’t need to offer any better service to always have a queue at the door, because the real reason for going to Can Maño is to eat fish. In this, they are unbeatable because it is always wonderfully fresh. Fried anchovies, hake, sardines… all of it straight from the market.
Can Maño
Carrer del Baluart 12
Can Paixano
A bar flanked by two enormous wooden gates in the narrow streets of the Barcelona Bazaars. It is also known as La Xampaneria because it traditionally sells baguettes accompanied by a glass of rosé cava. You can buy the whole bottle for prices ranging between 4 and 6 euros depending on the quality, but they will not sell it to you unless it is purchased with food.
Cured meat from Leon, Catalan sausage and hams hang from the ceiling, constituting the ingredients of their delicious baguettes. The service is fast, you eat quickly and then you make space for the next diner.
Can Paixano
Carrer de la Reina Cristina 7
La Cova Fumada
Especially known for its famous potato “bombas”. The cod, beans and chick peas with black pudding are also delicious. Magí, one of the owners, is our waitress today, but the whole family works in this bar: the grandmother, brothers and sisters and children. Like many of these local bars, it is closed on Sundays.
Bar Electricitat
One of those bodegas that has always been there, located in the plaza del mercat, opposite the Cova Fumada. Home-made vermouth, anchovies, crab salad, stuffed eggs… A place that does vermouth the old-fashioned way.
Bar Electricitat
Carrer de Sant Carles, 15
Bar Jai-ca
Another tapas classic in la Barceloneta is bar Jai-ca, where it is always difficult to find a free corner. The variety and quality of its tapas will make your mouth water as you gaze at the trays of fried fish, prawns, baby squid and bravas potatoes crammed onto the bar, and the taste is even better.
Ba Jai-ca
Carrer Ginebra, 13
Ca’l Chusco
A family bar serving good tapas, but if you are looking for a quick beer at the bar, the tapa is free. We were given deep-fried hot green peppers stuffed with fresh cheese and potato “bombas”. They will often serve you fried fish.
Ca’l Chusco
Calle Almirall Aixada, 5
Cal Papi
With the ambience of an old fishermen’s bar, at Cal Papi the specialities are anchovies, home-made cod fritters, prawns, oxtail and deep fried anchovies, but we were also surprised to see frogs’ legs on the menu! Another of the more unusual tapas was cod skins, which are displayed on the bar and which they let us try on seeing our surprised faces. They are crunchy and taste a bit like pork scratchings.
Cal Papi
Calle Atlántida, 65
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Mechelen Beer Has the Essence of Woman
In Belgium, beer is undoubtedly a quintessential beverage, something the people of Mechelen – just over 20 kilometres from Brussels – are well aware of. Citizens of this Flemish town have had enough with beer being regarded as a male prerogative, prompting them to launch a guide entitled, Beer in women’s hands,which stresses the historical and current role of women in the making of this elixir.
This Mechlinian project features recommendations on both tours of the city to visit historic sites and craft breweries and pointers to tasting the best local beers combined with typical dishes. A good example of this are bapas (snacks paired with a beer) and food pairing (creative combinations of beer with local dishes). All these options have one goal – to banish the myth that beer is not a woman’s drink and to dispel the belief that they prefer wine (and white wine at that) or light, fruity beers.
Another option in the guide is to cycle from Het Anker brewery, the oldest in Flanders, originally run by Beguines, nuns of a lay religious order who lived mainly in Mechelen and Louvain. This is where Golden Carolus is brewed – thus called after Charles V, the Holy Roman Emperor, who was brought up in this city – as is the brand named Lucifer, which tops the rankings of the best beers in the world.
Another suggestion in the guide is to have an aperitif in St Rumbold’s Tower, one of the major tourist landmarks in Mechelen. After the effort of climbing the more than 500 steps to the top of the tower, a beer is just what you need to quench your thirst as you take in the views of the city. St Rumbold’s Tower, nearly 100 metres tall, houses two famous carillons with 49 bells. It is worth mentioning that Mechelen is renowned for its Royal Carillon School, where many carillonneurs from all over the world have come to learn the secrets of this instrument.
The guide also recommends going on a multicultural, historical walk with tastings included. The itinerary takes you through the city’s central square, the Grote Markt, site of one of Mechelen’s three city halls, and of the unusual statue known as the Opsinjoor, depicting a man pulling a doll around on a sheet, considered the city’s mascot. Other landmarks on the route include the Palace of Margaret of Austria, Charles V’s aunt and governor of the Netherlands in the 16th century, the Church of Saints Peter and Paul, originally a Jesuit church, the Church of Our Lady across the river Dijle, which features works by Rubens, and the Palace of Margaret of York, the residence of the Bishop of Kamerrijk (Cambrai) when he was in Mechelen.
A final recommendation for Mechelen is a visit to the Dossin Casern, an erstwhile transit camp converted into a museum and documentation centre on the Holocaust and human rights. From 1942 to 1944 it was used by the Nazis as a transit camp where over 25,000 Belgian Jews and gypsies were detained before being deported to Auschwitz-Birkenau.
Mechelen is an ideal spot for sightseeing on a day trip from Brussels, as it is easily reached by train. Check out our flights to the Belgium capital here.
Text by María Jesús Tomé
Images by Turismo de Malinas