Five parks to inspire you in Compostela
Bad-minded gossip says that the city of Apostol is the biggest village in Galicia, which paradoxically is something that true-blood Santiago-dwellers take to be a compliment. And it is, because as a parameter for quality of life, there is greenery and vegetation on every corner of the ancient city, and it makes it special. Green clambers over the seven hills; it invades all of the stony gutters in the streets; it even dares to boldly play with the façade of the cathedral.
In "Huertas", the back garden of Obradoiro, urban and rural mix mimetically, without any kind of ego struggle. The city has lately succumbed to the unstoppable advance of the green element. Compostela has always had a kind of contest between the weight of its history and modernity. The presence of what is old is counteracted by ragingly modern avant-garde architecture, and has turned the great green spaces into a network of world level parks. More than a garden city, it is a garden with districts inside it.
Let's assume that the stone forest has overwhelmed you by its beauty, and you now want to meditate. We suggest taking a green route to see a unique side of Compostela. This would be my list of top Compostela parks.
1.-The Eternal Alameda Park. It is not new. It is the nineteenth-century park par excellence. At the foot of Porta Faxeira, and separating the old and new areas, it has been clothed in the history of the city since last century, when it was turned from a private estate into one of the most beautifully classical parks in the world. It has everything it needs to make you fall in love: hundred-year-old trees with their dry, twisted trunks; the Herradura walkway, also called the Cholesterol walk - for recovering from an excess of Galician food; the most beautiful views of all sides of the town; fountains; churches; wrought-iron benches from the turn of the century; and the bandstand that is essential for any provincial city worth its salt.
2.-Bonaval. Design and modernity near the old area: From a domesticated park, we go to a magical place that embraces the historical quarter. The old monastic garden of Santo Domingo always had a slightly esoteric side. Abandoned for years, its soft sloping terraces were taken by Siza and turned from a leafy park into a highly modern piece of design work. Meticulously pruned green areas, caves, an ancient graveyard integrated into the park, and magnificent views of the cathedral are all blended with the existing old stone structures and ruins. Water, cave and "strange" shapes make it modern, enigmatic and special.
3.-Banks of the Sarela. An enchanted forest in the centre of the town: two rivers cross Compostela, in the Barrio del Carmen. When eco-hiking became really fashionable, a decision was made to restore their abandoned banks and make the most beautiful urban-rural walk I have seen. The several kilometres of incessant water of the winding Sarela, babbling springs between wooden footbridges, stone bridges, thick forests and even abandoned tanning works make the place a natural, rustic garden - in the heart of the city.
4.-Belvís. Monastic splendour behind the old part of town: Belvis is a watercourse that was always considered a green backbone to the East of the historic quarter. And it was always abandoned. A passageway between Virxen da Cerca and the traditional Belvis, this park highlights the beautiful hills that surround this hollow. It is a real gift for your eyes: the splendid monasteries of Belvis and the Seminary at the top, the stony Santiago that rises up above, and an always silent and scenic park, whose maze is a perfect place to lose yourself.
5.-Vista Alegre Park. The park of surprises. The wealthy Simeón family opens its small palace and magnificent garden. You enter through the two old gates to the property that are always open, and the pink country-house has all the elements of the Galician country-house, such as the chapel, galleries, etc. If the garden were the prototype of any powerful family, special effort was put into dressing each of its corners with the most florid avant-garde architecture. The SGAE headquarters like the Flintstones' house; Casa Europa; Escola de Altos Estudios Musicales; the Natural History Museum. Four avant-garde structures that lend the finishing touch to a classical garden.
By Fran Camino
more infoWhere the City Goes into Pause Mode
In spring, Barcelona becomes a hysterical city. Any idea of making the most of a weekend or sightseeing in the city turns into a pulsating, 1,000-rpm power tour. Downtown fills with end-of-year student trippers skipping through the streets in search of the perfect souvenir, anachronistic sightseers clutching at maps trying to ascertain points of interest, Asians taking selfies, their outstretched arm included, tour guides holding umbrellas and loudspeakers and, willy-nilly, the odd local tramp who peeps out and then, unnerved, retreats with a bewildered expression. The collective hysteria is centred on the Gothic Quarter, but its shock waves reach the Barceloneta, the Born and the Eixample. Here, finding a quiet corner to recover one’s strength before sallying forth into the streets again seems to be an impossible feat. But, it is not – here are some of our favourite spots for going into pause mode:
If you’re the kind that goes for design, at Vinçon (Pg de Gràcia, 96) you’ll find an endless array of exquisite decorative items – all top drawer! You’d be hard put to enter Vinçon without getting lost in the corridors crammed with unusual designer items, but it’s certainly rewarding not to. If you manage to locate the staircase leading up to the first floor, you’ll be surprised to come across the lounge of an old Modernist house. Preserved in this extension to the store are the ceilings, walls, flooring and chimney of a house that once belonged to the renowned early-20th-century Catalan painter, Ramón Casas. On the far side of the floor you come to a terrace which is a must-see. The inner court of the building affords some unusual views of the back of La Pedrera, one of Antoni Gaudí’s architectural masterpieces. You will also be able to survey a typical inner court of a whole street block characteristic of the Eixample district, complete with washing hanging out to dry, colourful blinds and inviting terraces. Noteworthy are the centuries-old trees piercing the terrace paving and a fairytale house at the end of the store patio. And, while the pleasure of going into a store without a consumerist purpose is growing on us, we might as well make a foray into Servei Estació, at Calle Aragó 270, on the corner of another of Gaudí’s famous buildings, the Casa Batlló. This store is quite an eye-opener, what with its compendium of DIY items, party decorations, stationery… in short, yet another maze of tasteful objects where the first floor is well worth seeing. If you go up to the terrace, you will be treated to further views of an Eixample patio and, once again, a different angle on Gaudí’s outlandish building. Here, a selfie is de rigueur.
In the heart of the Gothic Quarter lies one of the city’s most touristy streets, the Calle Boquería. The ground floor premises of these beautiful buildings, along what was once one of Barcelona’s most stately streets, are now given over to souvenir shops, paella-and-sangría eateries and cheap hotels. In the old days almost all buildings had a patio at the back. Nowadays, this area has either been excised or is inaccessible. However, via the Hotel Petit Palace Boqueria you can gain access to one such patio which is now part of a network of public parks in the city, a veritable backwater of tranquility and a pleasant surprise for tourists and locals alike. Another palatial mansion that belonged to the 18th-century Barcelona nobility now houses the Antic Teatre, a creative, experimental centre of the scenic arts which stages innovative performances outside conventional theatre circles. While you’ll certainly find their shows surprising, the interior garden concealed on the first floor is even more so. It is part of the theatre bar, which is open all day and has neighbourhood prices, so having a beer while you’re sunning yourself without paying through the nose is really possible in this magical enclave in the Born quarter. It is located just a few metres from the Modernist and very modern Palau de la Música Catalana. Discovering this building is guaranteed to boost your endomorphins to the limit.
These spots, where the city stands still, are havens of peace and quiet that should be confided to once closest friends only, in order to preserve their tranquility in the long run. If the crowds eventually descend upon them, we will have to seek out other oases, although this will be an increasingly more difficult task to accomplish. But the endless city that is Barcelona is unlikely to disappoint.
If you enjoyed this route and are eager to see more, head over to Insòlitbarcelona, a website dedicated to unusual itineraries in Barcelona. What are you waiting for to discover these spots. Check out our flights here.
Text by Insòlitbarcelona
Images by Insòlitbarcelona
more infoDestination: Gambia. The Gateway to Africa
By Clara Arnedo
I’ve just got back from Gambia and some of the sights still linger in my mind: the rainbow that appears onTanji beach every day at sunset, when fishing boats laden with fish come back to the port, and the whole town takes part in collecting and selling the fresh fish. These are just a few of the memories that this small but perfect country leaves with you, to help you get an idea of what Africa is really like. Now Vueling makes it easier for us to travel to the Gambia, with a new route connecting Barcelona and Banjul, the capital of the country.
The journey starts in the capital, Banjul, a city that is small and pleasant. And so is the country, with a population of 1.6 million. Banjul is a relatively safe and peaceful city, where it is worth exploring the crowded colourful markets selling all kinds of wares. The most outstanding is Albert Market, a large typically African market mainly selling fruit, vegetables and fish. When sellers and customers see us they are reluctant at first and quickly avoid our cameras. But after a while they gradually become more open and available. All they need is a little time.
Another attraction in the city is Arch 22, in honour of the president, the bodyguard of the former president, who took his position on 22 June 1994. Since then he has been the great protagonist of the Gambia: we see Yahya Jammeh everywhere – on posters stuck on walls and lampposts in every village and every town.
But the Gambia is especially a country with a coast that opens out to the Atlantic Ocean; a wedge-shaped country that cuts into Senegal and is divided in two by the river that gives the country its name – the Gambia.
First we go to the coast to discover the long, fine sand beaches of Banjul. There are hotels on the seafront, affording a spectacular view of the ocean. But the most memorable fishing scene has got to be Tanji, where you can find a flurry of colours and life every evening on the shore when the fish is brought in. It seems like chaos but there is actually an internal organisation and hierarchy, and laws that enable the same spectacle to happen every day at sunset. The men are strong and muscular and are in charge of carrying tons of fish from the boats to the beach, balancing the baskets on their heads. Once they are on the shore, the women collect the treasure to wash it and prepare it to be sold… young men run further to look for spots to set up and sell the fish. The children often follow, running fast at their heels, hoping to catch a bit of fish that might fall on the way. This makeshift fish market on the sand is the tip of the iceberg of this small country that is bursting with life. In the morning, in that same spot, a colourful fruit and vegetable market materialises, dominated by women buying and selling food. One of these women is Ida Cham Njai, a beautiful and energetic chef who offers the unique experience of accompanying her to shop in the market, and then spending a pleasant day cooking local produce with her at her home. The gastronomy and local produce are the best ways to learn a bit more about this pleasant destination.
A British redoubt in colonial times, it is now one of the smallest countries in West Africa. It also has one of the highest birth rates. The Gambia is full of children, and mothers who wrap them to their hips: it is a beautiful and typical scene of the country. The rest of the country is made up of the jungle, nature and many animals: monkeys, birds and even hippos. The further upstream you go, the wilder nature is, and the more rural the population is… it is a wild adventure to go up the river towards the town of Georgetown, because there are not many places for accommodation. Tourism is not widely developed in the Gambia, and that is part of its charm. In any case, you don’t have to travel very far from Banjul to discover the wild. NearSerrekunda, the largest and busiest city in the country, we find Bijilo National Park, or Monkey Park, which includes easy paths to walk around. In this area you can also visit a crocodile pond, and you can even touch one of the crocodiles! This is the other side of the Gambia, with its river and mangrove swamps; the more authentic Gambia, one of the least developed countries on earth, with a life expectancy of 54 years and a literacy rate of 40%.
But this is not the end of the journey, and the Gambia, despite being a small country, still has a few surprises in store for us. Can you imagine remote African villages invaded by Street Art and graffiti? Well, this is what you can find in the Gambia. Specifically in Bafuloto and Makumbaya – two names that are hard to remember, two villages with small and simple houses, streets made of sand and dirt, where children play under the sun. And on the walls of these huts is where the Wide Open Walls movement found one of its favourite canvases. Pictures that depict nature, with animals from the area and other motifs that fill these places with colour.
A great way of discovering the Gambia from different perspective. Another way of penetrating Africa through this small gateway.
By Clara Arnedo
Makes you want to go, right? Do it! Check out our prices here!
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Almodóvars Madrid
What can we say about Pedro Almodóvar? Luis Buñuel notwithstanding, he is the internationally best known Spanish film director. His Oscar-award-studded, iconoclastic filmography includes both masterpieces and a large number of highly interesting movies. Like any creator worth his salt – and the Manchegan is one of these – Almodóvar has a pet city that features repeatedly in his films. We are referring to Madrid. In the late seventies he left his native Calzada de Calatrava and journeyed to the capital, Madrid, intent on making his name in cinema. It ended up becoming his favourite set. He has portrayed it in many different ways, revealing both its highlights and shadows, its well-known and its hidden facets. Almodóvar has explored virtually all the streets of his adopted city with a view to heightening the emotions and feelings of his main actors. His fiction breathes life into buildings, streets, establishments, airports, train stations and a long list of other settings.
The director of Volver turned the city into a film set, using to advantage real locations recognizable to his audience and turning some spots into must-visit centres of pilgrimage for his fans. Touring these precincts involves venturing into Almodóvar’s passionate, architectural world, by way of an alternative tourist guide to Madrid. We now retrace some of the most emblematic spots on a route which you can round off by viewing the films directed by the creator of Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown and jotting down new sites in your Almodovarian logbook.
Chicote Museum and La Bobia
One of the two bars that appear in Almodóvar’s films is the Chicote Museum, a chic cocktail bar with an eventful history sited on Madrid’s iconic Gran Vía. It opened in 1930 and its premises have been graced by a considerable number of contemporary stars and Hollywood classics, too. Its interior features in one of the main scenes of Broken Embraces, starring Blanca Portillo. La Bobia is another legendary meeting point in Madrid. It is hard by El Rastro flea market and was once a hotspot of La Movida (The Madrilenian scene). It was actually during those heady times that Almodóvar decided to set the opening scene of Labyrinth of Passion in La Bobia. The movie’s cast was headed by Imanol Arias and Cecilia Roth.
Cuartel del Conde Duque
A must-visit venue to see the spot where one of the Manchegan filmmaker’s most famous scenes was shot – when Carmen Maura takes a night-time shower with a hose in one of his masterpieces, Law of Desire. The scene was filmed in the doorway of the Cuartel del Conde Duque, one of Madrid’s largest and oldest palaces (it was built in 1717), which also boasts a highly valuable cultural and historical endowment. What’s more, once you’ve taken the snapshot de rigueur to relive Almodóvar’s shot, you can go inside and visit it, as it has been turned into a cultural centre featuring various temporary exhibitions throughout the year.
The M-30 Apartment Blocks
Pedro Almodóvar did not restrict himself to capturing only Madrid’s well-known city centre – he also turned his gaze to the suburbs. He did so in one of his best movies, the iconic What Have I Done to Deserve This? in which a long-suffering Carmen Maura is going through hell. She plays a woman who lives in one of the apartment blocks lining the M-30 motorway, a working-class residential area in the district of Moratalaz.
The Segovia Viaduct
One of the natural settings Almodóvar has used most often, both at the beginning of his career and even today. It appears in both Matador and the very recent I'm So Excited. In the latter, Paz Vega stars in an amusing scene shot against this backdrop. The Segovia Viaduct is located in Calle Bailén, near the Royal Palace, and is one of Madrid’s best known bridges.
Be sure to tour these Almodovarian settings – book your Vueling to Madrid here.
Text by Xavi Sánchez for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
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