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The Historical Cafés of Trieste

If you travel to Trieste, don’t fail to visit its historical cafés. Part of their patina is due to their connection with literary figures – writers such as Svevo, Saba, Stendhal and Joyce frequented these establishments in search of conversation, inspiration and rest.

While these cafés enjoyed their moment of splendour in the late-19th and early-20th century, they have endured to the present, albeit with some changes, transporting their customers back to a bygone age. Visitors can admire their wooden furnishings, framed in tall architectural devices, the classic marble tables and an atmosphere redolent with the aroma of coffee.

Here are some of the standout historical cafés of Trieste:

Caffè Tommaseo (Piazza Tommaseo, 4/c)

Opened in 1830 by the Paduan, Tommaso Marcato, this is Trieste’s oldest café. It was decorated by the painter, Gatteri, who among other things commissioned the mirrors to be brought from Belgium. It was once a meeting place of merchants and writers and the first establishment in the city to serve ice-cream. It also used to host art exhibitions and concerts, a tradition still kept alive on its premises.

Caffè degli Specchi (Piazza Unità d’Italia, 7)

Founded in 1839 by the Greek, Nicolò Priovolo, it is located in one of the most privileged spots in Trieste, the Piazza Unità d’Italia, on the ground floor of the Stratti building. When you get to this café, you are hard put to decide where to sit – the interior is still tinged with the charm of its glorious past, while the terrace affords lovely views of the square and the sea. Curiously, during World War II it was used to garrison troops, and also as a warehouse and even a stable.

Caffè Tergesteo (Piazza della Borsa, 15)

Housed in the shopping arcade of the Tergesteo Palace, the former seat of Trieste’s stock exchange, it is famed for its stained-glass windows depicting scenes from the city’s history. It was once frequented during the day by businessmen who attended the stock exchange, and by night by the cultural elite.

Caffè San Marco (Via Battisti, 18)

The early years of this café were troubled ones. Having opened in 1914, the following year it was closed down and destroyed by Austro-Hungarian troops for having been the meeting place for the irredentists. It was rebuilt in the twenties, when its regular clientele featured such literary figures as Saba, Svevo and Giotti. It is now a café, cultural centre and library and still breathes the atmosphere of another age.

Caffè Torinese (Corso Italia, 2)

The first thing that strikes one when entering this bar, opened in 1915, is its Art Nouveau decoration, the work of the Trieste cabinet-maker, Debelli. Another stunning feature is the spectacular crystal chandelier that lights its comfortable interior. The current owners have managed to endow the locale with a cool, modern air in the guise of its cocktails and its wine list, which includes local wines.

How to Order a Coffee in Trieste

While this might sound outlandish, Trieste has its own names for different types of coffee and you should bear this in mind unless you want to end up gawking at the waiter who has just served up your order. An expresso is called a nero, while a capuccino is known as caffè latte. If you want a macchiato, you have to ask for a capo (capuccino) and, if you’d like your coffee served in a glass, you should specify “in a b”, as “b” is the abbreviation for glass (bicchiere) in Italian.

Ready for a good cup of coffee in Trieste? Book your Vueling here.

 

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Photos by dani7c3, Caffè TommaseoCaffè TorineseCaffè degli Specchi

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The trendiest restaurants in the city I

By Ferran Imedio from Gastronomistas

Nancy Albrecht, who was born and bred in Berlin and, as the marketing manager at a luxury hotel, knows everything that’s going on in the German capital, tells us that what is happening here in gastronomy is “crazy”. With a new places opening every weekend, she does’nt know where to start, because what is on offer is ever more overwhelming, as vast as the city itself. 

What has happened here food-wise over the last three or four years is incredible. Incredible“, confirms Matthias Diether, one of the city’s most renowned and youngest chefs.

We had heard that in these parts that something was going on in the German capital. We wanted to see for ourselves, so a few days ago we travelled to Berlin to get to know a city that is ‘on fire’ gastronomically. We went in search of places that were trendy, good and nice to look at (and several of them cheap), like the Bread & Butter trade show to be held from 14 to 16 January. Our base of operations was the Wyndham Grand Berlin Hotel, a modern establishment, well located (about 500 metres from Postdamer Platz), clean and with impeccable service.

TIM RAUE

One restaurant definitely not to be missed is the Tim Raue. A worthy example of a Michelin two star restaurant in one of the most centrall districts (in the Kreuzberg neighbourhood, a few metres from the historic Checkpoint Charlie). The suggestion may surprise you because you’ll think that an establishment so recommended by the bible of gastronomy will be very expensive and luxurious, but when I tell you there’s a three course set lunch for €38, things change, right? And with no etiquette or ceremony. The winelist offers 500 wines, many of them quite affordable, with prices starting from €28.

Tim Raue is a modern, pleasant place frequented by famous Berliners. So many come here that taking photos has been banned to protect the intimacy of celebrities.

And why do they go there? For its fusion Asian cuisine, always light, a marvel playing with aromas, hot spices, sweet flavours… Exoticism passed through the filter of a German who knows to how connect with the Western palate. Squaring the circle. Its cuisine is well rounded, always with some hot spice (not too much, just enough to be enjoyable), some sweetness (fruit) and some sharpness. And never any bread, potatoes, rice or pasta, so as not to detract from the symphony of flavours in each of its dishes. This makes it unique in Germany.

If you go there and your budget doesn’t stretch to the taster menus (from €118 to €168) but can stand the lunch menu (three dishes for €38; four for €48, five for €58 and six for €68), don’t miss the Cantonese style shrimp with mango, carrot and wasabi mayonnaise. Or duck reinterpreted on one of its variations: foie gras, broth, breast on waffle, or leek and apple. Unbeatable. Closed on Sunday and Monday. The rest of the week the kitchen is open from 12:00 noon to 2 pm and from 7 pm to 9 pm.
Rudi-Dutschke-Strasse, 26.

LA SOUPE POPULAIRE

How to convert a brewery into a restaurant. The ubiquitous Tim Raue knows how. You’ll find it done here with a radical industrial design: iron beams, cement, bare bricks in the walls… 

The menu is based on softened, modernised versions of German recipes. The Königsberger Klopse is a meatball originally accompanied with mashed potato, capers and a butter and flour sauce. Here it is the same, but much lighter, not overpowering as you would expect from such ingredients. The cod with vegetables and citrus touches, and the beef and vegetable broth, are well worth the visit.

Open Thursday to Saturday, from 12 noon to 11 pm. Average price between €30 and €40.
Prenzlauer Allee, 24

KATZ ORANGE

You’ll have to look for it because it’s hard to find. It is in the inner courtyard of a block of flats. This is a charming old brewery, built in the late 19th century, that stopped producing beer and is now a most welcoming, modern restaurant.

The light, international dishes, with a touch of sophistication, are made with organic produce. We really liked the salad with goose pâté, the beetroot broth and the salmon with mashed potato and marinated quince.

The taster menu costs €50 for four dishes (€25 more with wine) and €60 for five dishes (€30 more with wine). A la carte is around €40.

Open Monday to Saturday, from 6 pm to 11 pm. It has two floors with a cocktail bar on the ground floor.
Bergstrasse, 22

SAGE

While the DJ spins tunes (club and disco – no classical music because this is a superdiscofashion venue) you go on dining. Sage is considered one of the coolest venues in Europe. When the good weather arrives, it opens a ‘beach’ by the river, with sand and sun loungers where you can enjoy views of the river to the opposite side: on the other bank you can see the East Side Gallery, a long stretch of the Wall painted by graffiti artists from all over the world.

Here, in what was an old loom, they serve uncomplicated, contemporary international cuisine: pizza, soup, meat… Average price between €35 and €40. There are special menus with three dishes (€35), four dishes (€42) and seven dishes (€69). Ah, and of you’re a smoker, there’s a space reserved for you… And it’s covered.
Köpenicker Strasse, 18-20

CAFE AM NEUEN SEE

A must for anyone who likes spots that are quiet, bucolic, romantic even (if you go at night, there are those candles, those little lights by a lake in the Tiergarten, one of Berlin’s big parks). It gets full at weekends because the setting is so nice. Open every day from 9 am (they have a huge range of breakfasts) until midnight and beyond. The menu has simple, international dishes like pasta, pizza, soups, etc. But there is also German food. All products are local. If you’d like to have a drink at night, there are no cocktails but they do serve beer, soft drinks, spirits and liquors.

Lichtensteinallee, 2

COOKIES CREAM

The city’s fashionable vegetarian restaurant. “It’s Berlin”, sums up Diether, our spontaneous guide on this getaway. “It’s in a hidden away spot, where you’d never expect to find a restaurant. And when you walk in you see all kinds, from punks to people wearing suits and ties”.

Hidden away means next to the trade door of the neighbouring five star hotel. It’s an ugly door, with just a chandelier, suggesting there’s something different here, as a clue that you’re on the right track. The premises are a building that includes a restaurant (Cookies Cream, on the first floor), a disco (Cookies, on the ground floor) and a cocktail bar (Draytone, next door). So you’ve just finished your dinner (a three course menu with a starter, main and dessert, drinks not included, costs €36) and now you can enter the disco free of charge.
Open Tuesday to Saturday, evenings only.
Behrenstrasse, 55

CURRY 36

Its name makes it quite clear what to expect here. Curry is king. But, only applied to sausages of all kinds and chicken. Nothing else. They put it on the sausages, on the chips that go with them, in the ketchup… It’s a simple take away (you can also eat at high tables in the street, sheltered by an awning) but it’s always full of Berliners hooked on its way of preparing the hot dog and its variants, and on its prices that start from €1.20. Open every day from 9 am to 5 pm. If you don’t fancy this idea, right next to it there are similar places offering pizza and Chinese food.

Mehringdamm, 36

MUSTAFA

Berliners love this little Turkish place. They travel kilometres to get to this street kiosk next to the entrance to Mehringdamm underground station and to try its shawarma. It’s famous for its queues. We went at 11:30 am an it took us 30 minutes, but friends in the city tell us that at busy times you can wait for up to two hours. 

The portions are huuuuuge, tasty and spicy hot (just enough). They have golden brown chicken with vegetables, sauces and spices Prices are between €2.80 and €4.30.
Open week days from 10 am to 2 am, and weekends from 11 am to 5 pm.
Mehringdamm, 34

THE CASUAL BY PACO PÉREZ

Inside the Das Stue luxury hotel there are two restaurants by Paco Pérez,:the outstanding Cinco, with a Michelin star, and the The Casual, based on Spanish tapas. They are separated by a curtain. The famous restaurant’s taster menu is priced at €140 (€230 with drinks) and the price at The Casual is between €35 and €50.

There are unforgettable tapas like the Galician octopus on mashed potato with caramelized onions (the delicious sauce is paprika-based), the Iberian ham croquettes and spicy garlic shrimp with a perfect poached egg. There are also non-Spanish dishes, like steak tartar with truffled egg yolk and Chinese brioche (filled with Iberian rib pork).
The greatest care is taken over the quality of the ingredients to the point where the fish is brought to Berlin from Catalonia . 
The Casual never closes (the kitchen is open from 12 noon to 3 pm and from 6 pm to 11 pm). On Friday and Saturday nights there is live music or a DJ.
Drakestrasse, 1

BAR RAVAL

In Kreuzberg, one of the city’s most exciting areas, it is owned by Daniel Brühl. It serves tapas, including its unbeatable chicken and ham croquettes (look out Joselito) and cod fritters. There ate hot, cold and speciality tapas, and dishes of the week. And on the first Monday of each month there is paella for 40 people. A real party.

If you stay the night you can try from their list of gin tonics (not a usual drink in Berlin), added recently with 30 types of gin and 3 types of tonic.

Daniel Brühl is not always there because of his acting commitments, but this place is not just another investment for him, he really loves it. An example: he bought the syphon bottles that decorate the room from Barcelona’s Encants market and he also bought the traditional floor tiles in Barcelona. 

Open from 5 pm to 11 pm (weekends to midnight and later). Weekends in April to October from midday. Average price between €20 and €25. If you’re going for a weekend it’s better to book through their website a week in advance because it’s always full.
Ah, and if you go to the Bread & Butter trade fair, look out for them because they will have their own space. This year they will serve tapas and Spanish tortillas.
Lübbener Strasse, 1

FIRST FLOOR

 

If you want to give yourself an even bigger treat and you don’t mind digging deep in your pocket, check out First Floor, naturally enough on the first floor of the Palace Hotel. While the décor is elegant and classic, the kitchen is run by a chef who has fun with his staff and with his food, Matthias Diether. I’d call him Matthias Donald Duck Diether because his duck dishes are incredible. You’ll have to cough up at least €109 (a four-course menu, with six starters and two desserts included, but there are also menus at €129 and €159), but it’s worth it because eating there is great fun. Modern dishes based on French haute cuisine. 

The colourful presentation plays with textures, each ingredient being served in different versions on the same plate, always with a visual artistic touch. And the taste. The dish called Duck Through and Through is a must: pâté, ham, broth, breast, chutney… Breathtaking! But the crab from Australia and the halibut are also very good

Ah, and one other thing. The wine selection is unbelievable, infinite. There are 1,500 wines. They are in a winelist that the waiters call the ‘Bible’. Some are so good you’ll feel you’ve been in the divine presence.
Budapester Strasse, 45

STREET STALL

And if your budget runs low you can always grab a hot dog for €1.50 at a street stall like the one in the photo. You can see why it’s so cheap, when to sell a sandwich all you need is an umbrella and a hotplate, some sausages, mustard and ketchup. The one you see in the photo was in front of the cathedral, but they sell them for €1.35 in Alexanderplatz. You can’t beat that!

CAFÉ GIPFELTREFFEN

A trendy, cozy spot in the heart of the Kreuzberg district. You go in and feel like you’re in your living room. Simple warm decoration, windows onto the street, quiet background music… Ideal on cold rainy/snowy days.

Here you can order light meals like sandwiches and salads, and enjoy drinks, cold (juices, beer, wine, cocktails, spirits, water) or hot (tea, coffee), while you relax listening to music, chatting quietly with friends (even better with your partner) or reading a book.
After 6 pm it changes from a modern welcoming café into a restaurant with international cuisine cooked with local ingredients. Open every day from 9 am to midnight, and weekends from 10 am to midnight and later.
Görlitzerstrasse, 68

WYNDHAM GRAND BERLIN

 And why not eat at a hotel? Where I stayed, the Wyndham Grand Berlin, is a safe bet, and not just because it’s a great BBB (Bedroom with Bathroom and Breakfast) at a good price. The breakfast has a variety and quality that many top class hotels would be proud of, while the elegant restaurant, called The Post, offers really good Mediterranean cuisine (including gazpacho and Catalan-style grilled vegetable salad) at an average price of €25. Salads, pasta, pizzas, meats, fish… For lunch from 12 noon to 3 pm and in the evening from 6 pm to 10:30 pm.

Hallesche Strasse, 10

Makes you want to go, right? Do it! Check out our prices here!

 

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De Pijp

Nobody knows for sure why that is the name of the neighborhood. The literal translation is “the pipe”, it is told that because of the form of its streets. And as any pipe, it has its own drain. De Pijp finds its drain in the oasis of Sharphatipark, an English-style garden where you get away from the daily bustle.In it, it is easy to see single mothers after school, aesthetes with dog, teenagers wanting to be rappers and the couple of policemen from the neighborhood, of course, by bicycle.

Process, although is familiar to us, is always surprising. It had been a working class neighborhood, if ever with some students and budding artists searching for cheap rentals. Towards the decades of the sixties and seventies of last century, it welcomed a great number of immigrants. Today the neighborhood has become bourgeois. In all these changes, the metamorphosis is very simple: muffins are now called cupcakes, modern people circulate in fixed pinion bicycles, the rim of the glasses fattens and dogs acquire odd shapes: they shrivel dogs, stylize their figure and even have session at the hairdresser, sorry, the hair stylist, and the psychologist.. As if by magic, rents go up a 300 percent and the area acquires a right to be called bohemian.

We now have the island in the middle of the city, competing for the night out between renowned artists and the very neighborhood of Joordan. And when I say the island is not metaphorical, De Pijp is connected to the rest of the city by 16 bridges that pass over the very familiar channels representing the exported image of the Dutch capital. About the renowned artists is not from now. Piet Mondrian founded the magazine De Stijl, which served as a speaker to the eponymous group of artists, in a small study on the channel Ruysdaelkade.

But in the end, what gives personality to the neighborhood is the market called Cuypmarkt Albert and a real United Nations gastronomy distributed throughout the neighborhood, inside discrete premises, with more or less charm. The market has that English style, similar to Notting Hill . A little walking around there and you will become friends with the shopkeeper, the florist will reserve the best tulips, not those sold by weight to tourists, tourists who incidentally rather spend time here. The baker will have the bread ready for doneness that you like and will offer good cheese wedges perfect for taking a wine in good company. The simplicity of the little details. In Albert Cuypmarkt, you may buy everything. We talk about the biggest daily street market in Europe, Amsterdam’s kitchen. You will realize that you are fully integrated when you come down to enjoy the haring (raw herring) with neighbors.

As for restaurants, think about any dish in the world. They say up to 150 nationalities are now living in the neighborhood, many of them with its own place. A thousand of different smells from spices, pad thai, durum or sate. Choose any. Although admittedly that Amsterdam and good food are not close friends, it will be almost impossible to come out of De Pijp without having found your own site. Almost the least of it, anecdotal, is that the neighborhood start in the very touristy Heineken Experience museum, the limit for each side of the neighborhood, the barrier between mass tourism that walks around Leidseplein and bohemian in the hipster garb who stroll through the neighborhood.

By Rafa Pérez from El Fotógrafo Viajero

 

Why not take a trip to Amsterdam? Have a look at our flights here!

 

 

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Tel Aviv Non-Stop 11 Venues, From Breakfast To Dinner

We travelled to Tel Aviv, Israel’s most European city, an island of hedonism in the heart of the Middle East where you can delight in the seaside, numerous art galleries, designer stores, discos… and restaurants.

Benedict

Israelis breakfast with gusto. That’s why at nine in the morning you will catch sight of bars and restaurants packed with customers breakfasting as if they were having lunch. The queue outside this venue, while not very long, speaks volumes of this restaurant’s popularity. It is the perfect place for breakfasting on good eggs Benedict in all its variations, accompanied by salad, bread and a beverage. It opens 24 hours, seven days a week.

Minzar Bar

Open every day and at all times, which is why it is a perennial meeting point for sharing a beer and a chat. Located next to the Carmel Market (Shuk Ha'Carmel), it is a prime meeting place for Tel Aviv intellectuals.

Espresso Bar

The elegant Rothschild Boulevard is brimming with lively, colourful establishments. One of these, on the corner of Herzl Street, is the place for an eggs Benedict and salmon breakfast on their peaceful terrace. Open every day from 6 a.m. to midnight.

La Gaterie

A small café serving marvellous croissants filled with cheese, ham, salami and egg… Ask for a local wine – you’ll be surprised. Open every day from 9 a.m. to 1 in the morning. Located on King George Street, which links the Dizengoff Centre to Kikar Rabin, the City Hall square, replete with bars and a ground zero for street protests.

Dalton

In the morning they serve up hearty breakfasts, as Israelis like them, while Italian cuisine is available for lunch and dinner. This restaurant with its retro decor lies in the heart of the Neve Tzedek quarter, a quiet and somewhat bohemian neighbourhood in Tel Aviv. Open every day from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. Pines Street 27.

Dallal

Tel Aviv’s beautiful people (celebrities included) frequent this house with two patios to taste their Mediterranean dishes or have a cocktail. It is five minutes from the beach and opens every day from 9 a.m. to 11.30 p.m.

Night Kitchen

One of the fashionable restaurants in Tel Aviv is Night Kitchen. Modern and informal, it offers seasonal, proximity products, particularly vegetables. Open every day from 7 p.m. onwards.

Suzanna

Newcomers to this restaurant serving Mediterranean cuisine are usually wowed by their terrace, embellished by a giant tree affording good shade… and by their soups! Located in the Neve Tzedek district, next door to the Bat Sheva Dance Company.

The Old Man And The Sea

Several restaurants are sited in Jaffa Port. This one, which recalls Hemingway’s novel, The Old Man and The Sea and specialises in seafood cuisine, presents diners free-of-charge with a jug of lemonade and 22 side dishes, along with your order. The prawns and calamari are very fresh, and the mussels are served with garlic butter. Tea and coffee are also on the house. Open every day from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

The Prince

You hesitate when about to step into this particularly dark, rickety entrance. If you’re a daredevil and cross the threshold, on the first floor you come to this venue, with one of the quaintest terraces in Tel Aviv. There you can enjoy a cocktail or beer, apart from ordering something simple to eat. Open every day from 5 p.m. to 11.30 p.m.

Aria

A two-storey house with two distinct proposals – upstairs is a gastronomic restaurant featuring delicate, modern, elegant and balanced international dishes based on locally sourced produce. Downstairs is a lounge bar. A tad more expensive than the rest, but a good option for giving yourself a treat. Opens at 7 p.m.

Book your Vueling to Tel Aviv and indulge in their culinary offerings.

Text and photos by Ferran Imedio of Gastronomistas.com

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