Gran Canaria A Paradise of Contrast on Two Wheels
Gran Canaria has become the favourite destination among cyclists in the last few years owing to the good climate on the island and the challenging routes it offers. The island has hosted professionals of the calibre of Alberto Contador, entire pro cycling teams such as Tinkoff, world champion triathletes like Daniela Ryf and Stöckli’s Swiss mountain bike racer, Jolanda Neff. But, the fact that it’s teeming with pros does not mean they have exclusive rights to the land – amateurs can also delight in touring it on two wheels. Here is what is special about this island, and my recommendations.
Advantages of Gran Canaria as a Cycling Destination
- The mean annual temperature is 21°.
- Direct flights from most European airports.
- Good, tarred roads with little traffic, as well as cautious drivers accustomed to cyclists.
- The land elevation is almost 2,000 metres (1,949 m) in the Pico de las Nieves, considered to be one of Europe’s toughest mountain passes, together with Mortirolo, Angliru and Stelvio. However, here the advantage is that the temperature is much warmer than in Asturias or the Alps.
- Marked scenic contrasts, ranging from white sand dunes in Maspalomas to tropical parkland in the north of the island, to the oasis in the Fataga Gorge.
Practical Tips
Accommodation. If you’re seeking tranquility and vegetation, the best option is to stay in the north. A good spot is the Bandama Golf Resort, which forms part of the oldest golf course in Spain, located in the Bandama Caldera with its noticeable volcanic presence. Nearby you will come across the vineyards of the Bodegón Vandama, offering delicious dishes well worth trying. And, if you require other services, as well as sun and long afternoons, the Barceló Margaritas in Maspalomas is a good choice, with the broadest culinary variety to be had in the hotel itself. Remember that, if you want to pedal, you’re going to have to rest and eat properly.
Essential routes and sights. The number of places you visit will depend partly on the length of your stay. Detailed descriptions and route times can be sourced at the Strava cycling community. Following are the key points, and a rundown of what to expect in terms of your level, to help you plan your itinerary.
Pico de las Nieves. This is the highest point on the island, situated in its centre. On a clear day you can pick out Mt Teide on Tenerife and Roque Nublo from there. Different access routes are available. The toughest route – which I would not recommend, unless you’re a seasoned climber – is the Ingenio por Cazadores, which reaches gradients of 23%. Next comes the ascent from Ayacata, which you get to from Maspalomas, while the easiest route is on the north side, via Cueva Grande. You need to take the climb leisurely. Once at the top, apart from some fine views, there is a food station where you can refuel.
Tejeda. A mountain village with excellent gastronomic offerings. If you’re planning a route on a non-competitive day, this is an ideal spot for stopping to enjoy some traditional island cuisine.
Three Big Dams (Soria, Las Niñas, Chira). It is surprising to come across so much water on the south of the island. All the dams are connected by district roads with virtually no traffic. If you’re after peace and quiet, this is a great route.
Maspalomas Dunes. For those who have never seen sand dunes, this is a must-visit destination, featuring dunes worthy of the Sahara. My advice is to go there at dusk, when the light is at its best.
Fataga Gorge. It starts just past the Degollada de las Yeguas, and the scenery ranges from a desert landscape to a “valley of a thousand palm trees”. Those who have been to Morocco will feel like they’re still in the Draa Valley.
Artenara. Located in the Tamadaba Nature Reserve, the vegetation here is different from the rest of the island, the prevailing species being the indigenous Canary Island pine.
Puerto de Mogán and Güi-Güi Beach. Puerto de Mogán is near the great dams route, while Güi-Güi beach can be reached on foot and is well worth visiting.
If the weather is still bleak and cold where you live, don’t think twice – get away to Gran Canaria and discover the island on two wheels. Book your ticket at Vueling.
Text by Raúl Casañas
more infoHow to Declare Your Love in Rome and Not Die in the Attempt
What could be a more ideal setting for a romantic getaway than Rome? It is full of secluded spots where you can get close and reveal your feelings to your loved one – ring at the ready, if you’re one of those. But, not just anything goes and it is not always easy to find the right spot. Here, then, is a selection of possible settings where you could take that “giant step”, or else just enjoy a pleasant getaway with your partner.
Warming Up – a Romantic Stroll Through the Historical Centre
All good things are worth waiting for. We recommend you take your time and seek enjoyment in strolling with your loved one. Rome’s historical centre is full of narrow streets to wander down, and public squares with surprises, be it an interesting church or palace facade, or the sight of a magnificent fountain.
At dusk, Rome turns into an idyll for romantics. That is the time to head for the Tiber riverbank and delight in the interplay of light from the setting sun.
The Fontana di Trevi, or How to Turn Your Declaration into a Romantic Comedy
Some of you might be puzzled by the bit about a romantic comedy, but this is basically how it will play out in that unique Roman setting. Dispel all recollections of that idyllic picture of Marcello Mastroianni and Anita Ekberg in La Dolce Vita. They were alone there, while you will be surrounded by hordes of tourists. And, worse still, by hawkers peddling roses and selfie sticks ready to pounce on all the couples they see filing into that priceless spot. Not to mention the fact that you won’t get around to slipping the ring onto your loved one’s finger before someone comes up and asks you to take a snap of them throwing a coin into the fountain. Hence, we advise you be real quick – make a beeline for a secluded corner and forget about getting down on your knees, unless you’re prepared to take a round of widespread applause and the ensuing avalanche of hawkers. And, you’re going to need an iron-cast sense of humour. This is the perhaps the most carefree option of them all.
Rome’s Gardens – for Nature Lovers
Rome boasts several green areas where you can get a different angle on the city, take a breather from the bustle and go for a delightful walk with your sweetheart. Our first choice is the Villa Borghese Gardens, and we recommend taking the access route through the Piazza dei Popolo,which affords splendid views of St Peter’s Square and the city. If you’re art enthusiasts, be sure to go into the Galleria Borghese and see how Bernini’s incredible sculpture of Apollo and Daphne has withstood the test of time. Who would have thought that such a sad love story could spawn such a beautiful statue!
Our second choice is the less frequented Savello Park, better known as the Giardino degli Aranci (Orange Garden) located on the Via di Santa Sabina. It is the perfect spot for soaking up views of the city. If you happen to be there in spring, you will be blessed by the incomparable scent of the surrounding orange blossom.
A Romantic Dinner – A Classic that Never Fails
The only thing about Rome that is likely to satiate is the sheer surfeit of restaurants. There are venues of all possible types, qualities and prices. But, for an occasion such as this, you have to curate your selection carefully and, if possible, splash out on something great. After a fine dinner in a special place it is virtually a given that your beloved will succumb to your charms and respond, “I love you, too”. Here are our suggestions:
- Casa Bleve. Housed in the incomparable setting of the Palazzo Medici Lante della Rovere, this is the ideal place for drinking fine wine accompanied by excellent sausage, cheese, pasta and other dishes with a refined touch.
- Osteria del Sostegno. Hidden in a backstreet near the Pantheon, this oyster bar offers delicious traditional Italian cuisine in an eminently inviting venue. Perfect for lovers of simple, fine things.
- Il Convivio Troiani. Such a special occasion warrants shelling out more than usual, like here at this excellent, two-star-Michelin restaurant. Delicious modern cuisine managed by the Troiani brothers in an elegant, congenial restaurant located in the centre of Rome. For lovers who wish to splash out.
- Spirito Divino. Located in the popular Trastevere quarter, this restaurant has a formidable wine list. While wine is their forte, so too are their dishes based on locally sourced, organic produce. If you’re a slow-food devotee, this is your restaurant.
Bring out the romantic inside you – get your Vueling and surrender to love!
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by François Terrier, Juan Llanos, brunifia
more infoA piece of paradise on earth
Just when we land, Tenerife welcomes us with an air of mystery and legend. Its volcanic landscape and its uncertain origins, which some authors place in Atlantis are just two of its many attractions.
And, legends aside, what is clear is that more than a lucky island, Tenerife is a piece of paradise on earth. It has two World Heritage Sites, a National Park, 42 protected areas and its weather makes it the island of eternal spring.
Whether you are visiting the island with friends, with family or with children, Tenerife is one of those destinations where you want to come back.
National Park Cañadas del Teide and Puerto de la Cruz
One of the must visit of Tenerife is the Teide National Park. Its breathtaking volcanic landscapes achieved that, in 2007 Tenerife were included as Well Natural in the World Heritage List of UNESCO. It is possible to visit the park with different excursions including the popular camel rise.
The caldera and volcano Teide - Pico Viejo are some of the world's most spectacular geological monuments. It also has a variety of volcanic cones and domes, lava flows, tors and caves that form a range of colors and shapes.
From there you can descend through spectacular Orotava Valley to the north coast, where is located the village of Puerto de la Cruz. This small town has many tourist attractions such as Loro Park, the Botanical Gardens, Lake Martiánez pool complex, beach Garden and Plaza del Charco.
San Cristobal de la Laguna
The historic center of La Laguna form was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO and it is a joy to walk through its streets.
Worth a stop on the way the Cathedral of San Cristóbal de La Laguna, Neo-Gothic and houses an interesting and rich artistic heritage. A short walk in its streets, we find among other facades of stately homes in Plaza de la Concepción, in front of the church of the same name. Turning left from the Place de la Concepcion reaches Herradores street, completely pedestrian, other interesting examples of Canarian architecture. But if the rotation is clockwise, the tour ends in San Agustin Street, in the houses of the Jesuits, Montañéz and Salazar. Lercaro Palace, the Museum of History of Tenerife, is another milestone in the street of St. Augustine and the church and hospital of Our Lady of Sorrows, St. Augustine's Church and the Institute of the Canary Islands.
A little further away is the beautiful Royal Shrine of the Holy Christ, next to the Plaza de San Francisco, better known as the Christ.
Hiking and nature trails
Masca
Masca is a picturesque village situated on the northwest tip of the island in the Teno Massif within the rural park of the same name. In Masca can find stunning scenery with deep ravines and cliffs ending in the Atlantic Ocean, surrounded by greenery and roads with impossible curves. Reputed to have been a haven for pirates.
Cruz del Carmen
If what you like is walking, one of the oldest trails on the island is what leads us to the Cross of Carmen.This promenade runs for environment typical vegetation, wax myrtle, heather and some species typical of the laurel, and reaches the Llano de Los Loros, from where you can enjoy panoramic views of the north coast wide.
Whales and dolphins watching
The southwest coast of Tenerife is a privileged place for whale watching in the wild, since there are whales and dolphin colonies living here all year. His presence is so near the coast, which has turned Tenerife in the first place in Europe in importance by the number of people doing whale watching in freedom.
We can find up to 21 different species in these waters, from the blue whale to the fearsome giant orca. There are two resident populations, finned pilot whale and bottlenose dolphin, which can be seen almost 80% of the days of the year, with a rate close to 100% sighting.
And of course, the beaches!
On an island as privileged as Tenerife, we must visit its incredible beaches, whether you like volcanic sand as soft golden sand.
For lovers of tranquility we propose Bollullo beach, in the town of La Orotava. It is a beautiful and secluded beach of volcanic sand which had the extraordinary clean waters and relaxed atmosphere. It's a little crowded beach, ideal for those who want to escape the crowded tourist venues and enjoy some quiet time. Access to this beach is on foot by a stepped path surrounded by banana trees. Pay attention to swim in this beach, because it lacks containment boom wave.
And for those who prefer to enjoy all the tourist amenities, our recommendation goes to the beach nightgown and Duque Beach.
The nightdress is part of a continuous succession of beaches which are occasionally separated by a line of stones on sand. The swimming conditions are always optimal as a breakwater protects the currents and waves.
El Duque is a beach of fine golden sand beach located in the southern part of the island, surrounded by a lovely seafront promenade that connects more than 8 beaches. In calm waters, and an extension of nearly 700 meters, the Playa del Duque delights its visitors, for they have all the services of an environment where quality is more distinctive.
You can also enjoy other spectacular beaches like El Medano, El Socorro, The Arena, La Pinta, La Tejita, Teresitas or Las Vistas.
By Nadia Polo
Picture Las Teresitas by Sergio Martín González | Picture San Cristóbal de la Laguna by Jens Steckert | Picture Acantilado de los Gigantes by Daniel Gaínza
A place well worth discovering! Check out our flights here.
more infoGhosts Of London's Past
Por Michael Schuermann de Easy Hiker
London is a great city for hikers. For one because there are so many scenic trails and nature reserves near-by – the Ridgeway, the South Downs Way, the New Forest – and for another because they are all so easy and convenient to reach by what is probably the world’s best public transport system. (I know the London urban and suburban rail networks get a lot of stick, but I still have to find another city in the world where it is as easy to get around even if you have no car.)
We will spend more time in London in the near future and intend to explore the walking trails of the area in some detail, although the more serious hiking trips will have to wait until the spring.
For the time being, however, we will keep things simple and start you off this week with two short walksalong the Thames, one in the east and one in the west, each roughly two to three hours long, allowing you to set out late, after a leisurely breakfast on a weekend for example, and still be back in time “for tea” to watch the afternoon soccer game “on the telly”. Are you still with me, “guv”?
Ghosts of London Past
Wapping in the east of the city has always been my favourite part of “walking London”. I have done this walk several times over the past twenty years or so, but it was never the same walk – because the area has changed and still changes so quickly.
This stretch of London – between the Tower and Greenwich – was once the most important hub of global trade, the place where shiploads after shiploads of coffee, tobacco and sugar from the British colonies arrived on their way to the European consumers.
The London docks were abandoned in the 1960s, and the area lay fallow, a barren industrial wasteland, for twenty years before it was redeveloped in the 1980s. When I came here first, a little over twenty years ago, this process was still very much ongoing, and the “docklands” at the time were a surreal blend of derelict industrial buildings, waste dumps, modern office developments and handsome 19th century mansions.
Nowadays, the docklands are very trendy and chic, but they are still nothing like similarly trendy and chic areas of West London. They are, for one, much less lively. Wapping High Street is a residential area, but when we went there, on a Saturday around lunchtime, we were almost the only people in the street, give or take the odd jogger. Between old warehouses, centuries-old taverns and narrow stairways that lead down to the river, you feel that ghosts are walking with you every step of the way.
Our walk starts at St. Katharine Docks in the back of Tower Hill station. Walk down the stairs on your left hand side, turn left in front of the moat of the Tower of London and simply follow the signs.
The three basins of St. Katharine Docks were developed in the 1820s when one of the largest London slums – with over 10,000 inhabitants – was razed to the ground. (The rubble of the destroyed dwellings, ironically, was used to lay the foundations for one of London’s most luxurious property development projects in Belgravia.)
The St. Katharine Docks were never a great commercial success – the gates to the river Thames were too narrow, preventing larger ships from entering – and, having been heavily bombed in WWII, never fully rebuilt and gradually abandoned.
They became, however, also the first of the London docks to be redeveloped as a leisure-plus-retail facility and the blueprint for all such projects since, in the capital and all across Britain. They are a very pretty sight indeed, particularly on a sunny day. (Unfortunately, we were not quite so lucky on our walk.)
Leave St. Katharine Docks in the back of the Dickens Inn through Thomas More Street and turn left into Wapping High Street along the Thames. Look out for Wapping Pier Head, two early 19th century brick buildings that were erected right on the entrance to the docks to accommodate leading dock officials and their families …
… and, a few houses down the road, the ancient Town of Ramsgate pub. The Wapping Old Stairs beside the pub – they lead down to the river – are said to be haunted: for many men, convicts on their way to Australia and drunks who were imprisoned in the pub’s cellar before being “press-ganged” into the navy, these stairs would have been the last things they ever saw of England.
A little further on, in the garden next to the modern HQ of the London River Police, the City of London used to execute pirates – not removing their bodies before three high tides had washed over them, as a kind of deterrent presumably. The infamous Captain Kidd was hanged here in 1701, and a couple of blocks down, there is a pub that was named in his honour. (Go check it out. It has stunning views over the Thames.)
Continue past some more old warehouses before turning right into Wapping Wall – look for London’s oldest riverside pub, the Prospect of Whitby – and crossing the bridge into Shadwell. (Another modern development, called Shadwell Basin, appears on your left.)
Immediately after the bridge, turn right in the direction of King Edward VII Memorial Park, and continue by the bank of the river with some spectacular views of Canary Wharf in the distance.
Turn left into Spert Street for Limehouse Basin, where this walk ends. There is a DLR station on your left hand side from where the trains of the “Docklands Light Railway” take you back into the centre of London within a few minutes.
By Michael Schuermann de Easy Hiker
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