Floating Gastronomy – in Venice
Venice envelops you in its melancholy, mist and light. It is also soothing. If you let yourself drift along that winding canal that dominates the city, your visit will flow, too. Notice how there are no cars and that, despite the flood of tourists that enter the city each day, this is a silent destination. Whether you find yourself on a bridge, at an intersection, in the heart of the Campo or in a narrow alleyway, wherever you feel famished, your deliverance is at hand. Not only because you can get anywhere fast on a gondola, but because the capital of Veneto is full of places to enjoy the cuisine. Either at street level or up high, with those views that swayed and swathed writers and intellectuals of all eras. Following are some of those spots with a sparkle of their own and a unique offering.
Fish
Given Venice’s seafaring nature, what could be better than to order and savour the city’s fresh fish? A prime spot for eating fish virtually from the market to your plate is the Antiche Carampane for its proximity to the Rialto Market. This simple, family restaurant is frequented by Venetians who know where to find the best of the best, as well as by well-informed celebrities. Here you will witness respect for food and for Venice’s most characteristic culinary tradition, both on and off the menu.
Street Food
In Venice you will wander about willy-nilly to come to grips with its soul. If time is short for having a relaxed meal, an advisable option is the street food. A tramezzino (wedge-shaped sandwich) at some café, or a pizza al taglio (sliced pizza) at Antico Forno, are both generous snacks. But, if you’re after something more authentic without having to sit down to it, better settle for Acqua & Mais, a dainty eatery which makes the most out of the Venetian culinary repertoire when it comes to a practical packaged takeaway. Your eyes will pop out at the fried fish, croquettes, polenta and the classic creamed codfish.
The Confectionery
Here there are two historic and thus essential locations. Two pastry shops, quite a long way from each other, have coexisted as successful local landmarks. However, each one has evolved differently over the years. At Rosa Salva they still serve classic single-helping pastries, buns and ice-creams in an atmosphere more akin to a bar. Colussi, for its part, is celebrated for its focaccia veneziana, which resembles panettone or sweet bread in shape and tastes like a really good ensaimada. It is ideal when eaten with hot chocolate from the same establishment, where they make dough and bake on the premises every day.
Wine and Glasses
Estro - Vino e Cucina is a modern gastrobar and wine bar with a lot of character where you can eat typical Italian dishes and raw fish – a hallmark of the Italo-Japanese chef, Mashiro Homma – marinated in the wine of your choice from among a wide selection within view of the tables. The wine has a “double label” and can also be purchased.
The historical Osteria ai Pugni focuses on aperitifs, sausage boards with regional fare, a variety of different flavoured croquettes and the typical tramezzini with unusual fillings. A striking feature is their wine, served by the glass, which can be savoured in a relaxed atmosphere alongside the Ponte dei Pugni, in the heart of the Dorsoduro district.
Paradiso Perduto
You can either sit at the bar or at one of the many tables in this huge, bustling restaurant which provides live music on Monday nights to fire the after-dinner ambience. Their forte is large helpings of homemade dishes. Their fresh fish comes highly recommended – complete with matching side dishes or contorni (vegetables, field mushrooms or roast potatoes)–as do the lasagna, fagioli (beans) and tiramisu, a dessert that originated in Venice. Keith Richards once played the piano here…
The Vegetarian Streak
The fact that you have to book in advance for La Zucca is the best compliment you can pay it. The artificers of the restaurant have managed to remain faithful to the origins of the business, where pumpkin is the major attraction and the basis of many of the homemade dishes on the reasonably priced menu.
Accommodation
If you can afford it, the Hotel Danieli is one of those places that leave their mark on you. Commensurate with the beauty of Venice, this luxury hotel is part of the city’s living history. It is just two-minutes’ walk from St. Mark’s Square and its two highly distinct buildings – the rooms in each hardly resemble one another – recreate the splendour of times past with an evocative atmosphere that fits in well with their 21st-century service. Their majestic Carnival ball, held near the lounge, is celebrated, while you can have a unique, enogastronomic experience in their new Wine Suite. You can also have one in the Danieli restaurant and terrace, a spot which entices you with its views over the Grand Canal and the Adriatic, as does the creative fare provided by their executive chef, Dario Parascandolo, featuring perennial classics and in-house recipes based on local products.
Souvenir
If you appreciate little gifts and good craftsmanship, treat yourself to a book marker, a notebook, a print, a postcard or one of the hand-painted recipe books by the artist, Nicola Tenderini. You cannot leave Venice without a keepsake that takes you back to the city, as far away as you might be.
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Text and photos by Carme Gasull and Belén Parra from Gastronomistas
more infoThe markets of St Petersburg and surrounding areas
Its markets are the best place to take the pulse of any city,places where you can experience the day-to-day life of the people and mingle with the local population. This is no less true in Saint Petersburg, where haggling is encouraged and stallholders will even offer you their wares without any kind of pressure to buy.
Kuznechny Market
The most central and representative of the markets in Saint Petersburg (and also the most expensive) is the Kuznechny Market where you will find flowers, vegetables, cheeses and natural honey for sale.
Numerous attractions are located close to the market: the Arctic and Antarctic Museum can be found in the former Church of Saint Nicholas and includes exhibits on the characteristics of the polar regions, the history behind the conquest of the Great North and the economy and culture of the Nordic people. The Floral Exhibition Centre, the Vladimirskaya Church and the Lensoveta Culture Centre at 42 Kamennoostrovsky Avenue are also worth visiting.
The Dostoevsky Museum is another nearby attraction – the place where this famous writer and author of such novels as ‘Crime and Punishment’, ‘Demons’ and ‘The Idiot’ lived and died. This house museum has been faithfully restored to how it was originally.
If you get hungry, why not try the Marius Pub or the Tres Amigos restaurant. However, if it is thirst that needs quenching, Mollie’s Irish Bar is a great place for a drink.
Sennoy Market
What was once an old hay market has now become a major food market with clothing stalls that fill the surrounding streets.
A large part of ‘Crime and Punishment’ by Dostoevsky is set in the streets of the Sennaya district, where the Sennoy Market is to be found. It is more popularly known as the Dostoevsky District.
It is an excellent area for a spot of shopping in the large department stores. Sennaya Square is a bustling hive of activity where you can find the famous PIK and the large Sennaya Shopping Centre.
For some nice, reasonably-priced home-made food, you should head over to Kafe Adzhika.
If you’re up for a short walk, take a stroll over to Yusupov Palace, located on the edge of the River Moika and one of the most spectacular monuments to classicism to be found in Saint Petersburg.
Sitni Market
On the small Zayachy Island in the River Neva is the true historical centre of the city: Peter and Paul Fortress, the original citadel of Saint Petersburg. Peter I the Great ordered its construction in 1703 and it contains such remarkable buildings as the Peter and Paul Cathedral, where all the Tsars from Peter I the Great to Nicholas II and his family are buried. Standing 122 metres tall, the cathedral bell tower is the highest point in the city.
Although initially designed for defensive purposes, it never needed to be used for that but rather served as a prison until 1917. Its most famous prisoners included such individuals as Trotski, Dostoevsky and Bakunin.
Also nearby is the Saint Petersburg Zoo and the Political History Museum.
A good choice for something to eat would be the popular Salkhino restaurant where they serve Georgian cuisine. In the evening, you might want to try out the legendary Tunnel Club, the first techno club to open in Russia.
Vernisazh Souvenir Market
Less of a market and more a collection of souvenir stalls, this is to be found behind the Cathedral of the Resurrection of Christ or the Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood and is one of the most popular tourist sites and an attraction in itself. Here you will find many traditional Russian gifts and souvenirs.
The Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood was built on the spot where Tsar Alexander III was killed. The interior and exterior mosaic decorations are fantastic, as are its stained glass windows. The temple was built in the Russian architectural style of the 16th-17th Centuries (pure Russian orthodox) and bears a striking resemblance to Saint Basil’s Cathedral in Moscow’s Red Square.
Its five large bulbous domes decorated in numerous colours and gold, as well as the meticulous detail work that covers the exterior, are yet more features that make this an outstanding piece of architecture.
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7 unforgettable experiences in Marrakech
There are endless opportunities to dive into Marrakech, a magical and vibrant Maghreb city. We can not say goodbye to the city without visiting:
1.- Majorelle Garden
Majorelle Garden is the most important art work performed by the French painter Jacques Majorelle, designed during his stay in Marrakech at the villa where he was staying.
It is a lush botanical garden rich in different species of exotic plants which Majorelle brought from his many travels around the world. It was opened in 1947 and closed in 1962. It remained closed until the designer Yves Saint-Laurent bought it and restored for later reopening in 1980, adding more plant specimens. The blue coloured walls in this wonderful palace contrast to the deep green of this paradise’s vegetation, full of cactus, palms, yuccas, lilies, coconut and banana, among many others. Exploring this unique paradise is priceless.
2.- El Palmeral
The Palmeraie (El Palmeral) more than 13,000 hectares of land that conform a particular and mystical ecosystem, full of palm.
Conservation is very important since it is the first supplying source of wood and dates in Marrakech. This ancient park is often visited both in chaise or by camel. By about 100 dirhams (10 euros), you can take a camel ride along inside it. Rent a chaise with horses is a bit more expensive, from about 200-250 dirhams (20-25 euros), but it is also charming. The chaise ride takes about two hours and goes from theJemaa el Fna to Palmeraie Golf Palace Hotel, located at the furthest point in the area. You can also find a number of buildings and luxury hotels as well as some golf courses that only suits the wealthiest pockets. Is a fairly sightseeing tour but very pleasant and is worth trying the experience at least once.
3.- The Djemaa el Fna
The Djemaa el Fna, the most iconic and well known place in the city.
In this diverse activity center there is also room for a spiritual reality: the seers who read the hands or throw the tarot and snake charmers are the key characters in this mix of cultural movement. For those who love ostentation, there is a luxury restaurant called Al Baraka in the same square where you can mingle with high class people for eating typical delicious dishes while dancing girls dance around, it is is perfect for Ali Baba’s a thousand nights.
4.- Leather Tanning
The traditional process of tanning leather is one of the city’s oldest crafts.
The Moroccan tanners’ work is very hard, especially because of the stench given off by waste substances needed to carry out such work.
We recommend going with a guide who can detail perfectly this interesting procedure’s different stages and we should not forget to take a few mint leaves that are available at the entrance to help the nose soothe the unpleasant sensation caused by the smell . Living this experience will lead us directly to theMiddle Ages.
5.- Medina’s Teahouses
Medina’s Teahouses in Marrakech are a must on your trip to the Arab world.
Take a mint tea or spearmint, popularly known as Moorish tea in the Marrakech’s Medina is essential to make us feel as authentic Moroccan.
Some of the most glamorous and chic teahouses are the Arabic Cafe and La Terrasse des Epices. It is also highly recommended to try the exotic saffron tea.
6.- Hammams
A Hammam is a traditional bath room where you get fully relax.
Are also common in these centers the beauty treatments such as moisturizing and skin peels. There are different styles of hammam targeted for all ages and budgets. Although formerly attend this sort of Roman baths were an activity reserved for the rich, today it is a pleasant experience to suit everybody’s pockets. Some names of our favorites are Les Bains de Marrakech and La Maison Arabe.
7.- Ksar of Aït BenHaddou, Sus-Masa-Draa
The Ksar or fortified city of Aït BenHaddou is considered World Heritage Site since 1987.
It has been used as a location for many films such as Gladiator or The Mummy, because of it’s adobe-house architecture’s great beauty and the spectacular views it offers. It is a dream place that strikes for it is extremelly well maintained. Getting here is not easy, the journey is 200 km from Marrakech by vehicle through mountain ports, which takes about four hours. Once arrived there, you will forget all the effort that has involved getting into a new world merged by ocher, green palm trees and blazing blue sky.
Picture by Donarreiskoffer
By Blanca Frontera
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9 cafes in Stockholm
In Stockholm there’s a café on nearly every counter, a total of 502 in the Swedish capital. And each one strives to offer the best coffee and food, including pastries, sandwiches, and even whole brunches and lunches. They also vie with each other to display the most original concept and décor.
In Colour - Vurma Kafé (Gastrikegatan, 2)
You wouldn’t be surprised to see Frida Kahlo, Sara Montiel or Lola Flores flouncing through the door of this cathedral of Kitsch, with its deep red and blue walls, and colourful plastic flowers in every available spot –including the waitresses’ hair–where every chair and velvet cushion is a different colour and pattern. The initial psychedelic sensation quickly subsides, and the visitor realises that there’s a lot to like in the Vurma. Much to be prized is the organic milk accompanying a hot sandwich combining the unlikeliest ingredients; but all surprisingly delicious. Our favourites are the goat cheese with apples, honey, and walnuts, and the spicy hummus.
Perfect Chaos – String (Nytorgsgatan 38)
The is a café that doubles as an antique shop`. Everything is for sale –the furniture, the table linen, glassware, lamps, and many decorative items. But it is most famous for its unspeakably delicious red fruit strudel drowned in vanilla sauce. The best place to drink your coffee, which is served in thermos jugs, is at the high table by the window where you can watch the hipsters parading through the ultramodern Söderman district. For just eight euros you can order a Sunday brunch including a hot drink, fruit juice, bread, cheese, yoghurt, a crêpe, fresh fruit, egg and even ice cream!
Milky Coffee and a Newspaper - Saturnus (Eriksbergsgatan, 6)
Local and foreign newspapers, huge, rich pastries (one cinnamon band can be shared by at least two or three people), and an exquisite café au lait served in one of Stockholm’s largest cups. It’s a cosmopolitan and cordial setting, and a great place to meet and chat with friends. The menu includes sandwiches and salads made with recipes “from everywhere”, says the owner. Noteworthy among the fare are the Cuban sandwich of cured pork loin with barbecue sauce, the Ruben pastrami, the milkshake made with fresh fruit, and the cheesecake with macadamia nuts. Average cost per person: 12 euros.
In the Market - Roberto (Östermalmstorg, 114)
No visitor to Stockholm should miss the luxurious covered Östermalms Saluhall selling local gourmet products including reindeer specialities, salmon, shellfish, cheese, and cakes. Near the entrance is the Café Roberto, a great place to catch your breath whilst touring the city on foot.
Following the Footsteps of Mikael Blomkvist – Melquwist (Hornsgatan, 78)
One of Stockholm’s top-ranked cafés is the site at which Mikael Blomkvist, the hero of Stieg Larsson’s Millennium trilogy, solved a mystery or two with the help of Lisbeth Salander. Regular customers tend to choose the full breakfast packages, which includes fresh fruit juice, a hot drink, and a hot sandwich (try the egg and mozzarella!) for 11 euros. Another appealing feature of the Melquwist is its outdoor terrace where blankets and stoves protect guests from the winter temperatures.
Shop and Café – Taverna (Hornsgatan, 5)
Unabashedly arty and contemporary, this café features a long, long wall adorned with sober black graffiti, plus a delicatessen selling a large variety of international foods, a pork butcher’s, and a bakery. There are strategically placed benches for visitors who want to enjoy a coffee on the spot.
The Infallible Classic - Vete-Katten (Kungsgatan, 55)
In business since the beginning of the 20th century, this is a classic and elegant tea room frequented by many generations of people who come to sample the delicious bread and traditional pastries, such as semla (a brioche filled with almond cream) or the cinnamon tolls made with extra sugar and butter, which are best with a big cup of steaming black coffee. The delicious baking aromas envelope the Vete-Katten and make it easy to find – just follow your nose!
Rock & Cakes - Café Fatölgen (Götgatan, 12)
The is a curious glam-rock café with enormous crystal chandeliers, rock posters, and floral wallpaper. At five euros per huge, tempting slice, the 12 kinds of cake are worth every cent and constitute the speciality of the house. Resistance is futile!
Simply Magic - Rosendals Kafé (Rosendalsterrassen, 12)
It’s the city’s most magical spot to for having a coffee, located inside a greenhouse crowded with plants, which in turn stands in a huge garden thronged with apple trees where the hip crowd can sit outdoors in the summer. You can’t help loving the bucolic atmosphere, where you can order 100% organic food grown in the garden. The Rosendals specialities are the soups, the carrot cake, and the pastries made with flowers from the garden –try the rose and nettles cakes!
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