In Stockholm there’s a café on nearly every counter, a total of 502 in the Swedish capital. And each one strives to offer the best coffee and food, including pastries, sandwiches, and even whole brunches and lunches. They also vie with each other to display the most original concept and décor.

In Colour - Vurma Kafé (Gastrikegatan, 2)

You wouldn’t be surprised to see Frida Kahlo, Sara Montiel or Lola Flores flouncing through the door of this cathedral of Kitsch, with its deep red and blue walls, and colourful plastic flowers in every available spot –including the waitresses’ hair–where every chair and velvet cushion is a different colour and pattern. The initial psychedelic sensation quickly subsides, and the visitor realises that there’s a lot to like in the Vurma. Much to be prized is the organic milk accompanying a hot sandwich combining the unlikeliest ingredients; but all surprisingly delicious. Our favourites are the goat cheese with apples, honey, and walnuts, and the spicy hummus.

Perfect Chaos – String (Nytorgsgatan 38)

The is a café that doubles as an antique shop`. Everything is for sale –the furniture, the table linen, glassware, lamps, and many decorative items. But it is most famous for its unspeakably delicious red fruit strudel drowned in vanilla sauce. The best place to drink your coffee, which is served in thermos jugs, is at the high table by the window where you can watch the hipsters parading through the ultramodern Söderman district. For just eight euros you can order a Sunday brunch including a hot drink, fruit juice, bread, cheese, yoghurt, a crêpe, fresh fruit, egg and even ice cream!

Milky Coffee and a Newspaper - Saturnus (Eriksbergsgatan, 6)

Local and foreign newspapers, huge, rich pastries (one cinnamon band can be shared by at least two or three people), and an exquisite café au lait served in one of Stockholm’s largest cups. It’s a cosmopolitan and cordial setting, and a great place to meet and chat with friends. The menu includes sandwiches and salads made with recipes “from everywhere”, says the owner. Noteworthy among the fare are the Cuban sandwich of cured pork loin with barbecue sauce, the Ruben pastrami, the milkshake made with fresh fruit, and the cheesecake with macadamia nuts. Average cost per person: 12 euros.

In the Market - Roberto (Östermalmstorg, 114)

No visitor to Stockholm should miss the luxurious covered Östermalms Saluhall selling local gourmet products including reindeer specialities, salmon, shellfish, cheese, and cakes. Near the entrance is the Café Roberto, a great place to catch your breath whilst touring the city on foot.

Following the Footsteps of Mikael Blomkvist – Melquwist (Hornsgatan, 78)

One of Stockholm’s top-ranked cafés is the site at which Mikael Blomkvist, the hero of Stieg Larsson’s Millennium trilogy, solved a mystery or two with the help of Lisbeth Salander. Regular customers tend to choose the full breakfast packages, which includes fresh fruit juice, a hot drink, and a hot sandwich (try the egg and mozzarella!) for 11 euros. Another appealing feature of the Melquwist is its outdoor terrace where blankets and stoves protect guests from the winter temperatures.

Shop and Café – Taverna (Hornsgatan, 5)

Unabashedly arty and contemporary, this café features a long, long wall adorned with sober black graffiti, plus a delicatessen selling a large variety of international foods, a pork butcher’s, and a bakery. There are strategically placed benches for visitors who want to enjoy a coffee on the spot.

The Infallible Classic - Vete-Katten (Kungsgatan, 55)

In business since the beginning of the 20^th century, this is a classic and elegant tea room frequented by many generations of people who come to sample the delicious bread and traditional pastries, such as semla (a brioche filled with almond cream) or the cinnamon tolls made with extra sugar and butter, which are best with a big cup of steaming black coffee. The delicious baking aromas envelope the Vete-Katten and make it easy to find – just follow your nose!

Rock & Cakes - Café Fatölgen (Götgatan, 12)

The is a curious glam-rock café with enormous crystal chandeliers, rock posters, and floral wallpaper. At five euros per huge, tempting slice, the 12 kinds of cake are worth every cent and constitute the speciality of the house. Resistance is futile!

Simply Magic - Rosendals Kafé (Rosendalsterrassen, 12)

It’s the city’s most magical spot to for having a coffee, located inside a greenhouse crowded with plants, which in turn stands in a huge garden thronged with apple trees where the hip crowd can sit outdoors in the summer. You can’t help loving the bucolic atmosphere, where you can order 100% organic food grown in the garden. The Rosendals specialities are the soups, the carrot cake, and the pastries made with flowers from the garden –try the rose and nettles cakes! 

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Famous for its white silhouette and for being the city with the largest collection of buildings inspired by the Bauhaus (over 4,000), it is also renowned for its Mediterranean light, its multicultural, cosmopolitan milieu and its high standard of living. However, what is not so well known is that young Tel Aviv, founded in 1909, is a fantastic family resort where both the young and old can have a lot of fun. Why? The high birthrate – over three children per family – has prompted a large number of children’s facilities to be built in the city. Here are some ideas:

1. Kids might get bored with stone, the major feature of the old port of Jaffa, founded in 700 BC, which forms the original nucleus of present-day Tel Aviv. But you’re sure to win them over if you tell them it was here that Noah’s ark came to rest when the Flood subsided. This maze of well-preserved, winding streets has been exquisitely restored as part of a complete makeover. It throngs with craft shops, art galleries, cafes and artists’ studios, including the rehearsal premises of Mayumaná, a group known for its unusual way of making music using non-musical objects, such as rubbish skips, recycled objects, etc. If you start hearing weird sounds while out strolling there, they are obviously engaged in a full-blown rehearsal. Before leaving, make sure you take some amusing photos of Jaffa, like hugging the “hanging” olive tree or in front of the whale that swallowed Jonah. If you happen to be out walking at dusk, have a look at Tel Aviv’s skyline and the fishermen seeing out the day on the wharf.

2. Jaffa is the site of a pleasant Tel Aviv promenade, the Tayelet.The walk, which stretches for fourteen kilometres, starts at the old, millenary harbour and crosses Tel Aviv in a northbound direction. It can be done on foot, or by jogging, skating, skateboarding or cycling – municipal bicycles can be hired all over the city. All you need is a credit card, and that’s it! Don’t worry if you get tired of pedalling – we recommend a stop-off at one of the cafes opposite the beach, or having an ice-cream while seated on one of the benches along the promenade, where you can sun yourselves and soak in the atmosphere.

3. Tel Aviv is a coastal city with beaches where you can enjoy the warm Mediterranean climate. They are clean and lively and provide all the services – changerooms, showers, playgrounds and swings! All designed for soaking up the seaside, as here they can boast of over 300 days of sun a year. The family favourites are two in particular – Metzitzim, in the north, perhaps the beach of choice among locals, and the Jerusalem beach, which affords a perfect view of the Jaffa skyline. For interest’s sake, Hadatiyim is the beach where religious people go, while Hilton beach is preferred by surfers and homosexuals. To get into the swing of things, buy some typical wooden racquets called markot and get ready to spend hours playing on the beach.

4. A stroll down the Rothschild Boulevard is a must. Make sure to stop off at number 45, the domain of the Max Brenner Chocolate Bar. This is the Mecca of chocolate in all its shapes, colours and textures and their prices are well worth paying. The menu is so tantalising and so mouth-watering that the whole family is sure to give in to the temptation at any time of day.

5. Talking of food… somewhat less traditional are the products to be had at the Carmel Market, the best place for imbibing exotic flavours and aromas and discovering fruit, vegetables, sweets, multi-coloured spices, fresh fish, meat hanging from gigantic hooks and prepared food unrecognizable for many westerners. Strange aromas, sounds from voices and electronic devices, music and hubbub mingle in the air. Of course, the question most often heard is – What is this? Startled expressions at the new flavours are guaranteed, as are the smiles on realising that you can also find sweets in Israel! Even though they are a bit strange. But, don’t leave Carmel without tasting a pomegranate and orange juice… Mmm!

6. The Ramat Gan Zoological Center is a locally popular nature reserve where you can see exotic animals like giraffes and lions in the semi-wild. The park tour, measuring one square kilometre, is done by car, as if on a short safari. Be warned, though – the size is deceptive. The circuit is so well designed that it seems bigger than you imagine. If you don’t have your own car, you can hire one.

7. Hayarkon Park is a replica of New York’s Central Park in all respects, including appearance and size – it stretches over four square kilometres. We recommend taking a bicycle ride along the riverbank and having a picnic and, for dessert, a game of cricket – a popular game in Israel. There is also a lake where you can hire a boat, several ponds with ducks and even a climbing wall where you can try out your skills as a rock climber.

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Text and images by Nani Arenas

Its markets are the best place to take the pulse of any city,places where you can experience the day-to-day life of the people and mingle with the local population. This is no less true in Saint Petersburg, where haggling is encouraged and stallholders will even offer you their wares without any kind of pressure to buy.

Kuznechny Market

The most central and representative of the markets in Saint Petersburg (and also the most expensive) is the Kuznechny Market where you will find flowers, vegetables, cheeses and natural honey for sale.

Numerous attractions are located close to the market: the Arctic and Antarctic Museum can be found in the former Church of Saint Nicholas and includes exhibits on the characteristics of the polar regions, the history behind the conquest of the Great North and the economy and culture of the Nordic people. The Floral Exhibition Centre, the Vladimirskaya Church and the Lensoveta Culture Centre at 42 Kamennoostrovsky Avenue are also worth visiting.

The Dostoevsky Museum is another nearby attraction – the place where this famous writer and author of such novels as ‘Crime and Punishment’, ‘Demons’ and ‘The Idiot’ lived and died. This house museum has been faithfully restored to how it was originally.

If you get hungry, why not try the Marius Pub or the Tres Amigos restaurant. However, if it is thirst that needs quenching, Mollie’s Irish Bar is a great place for a drink.

Sennoy Market

What was once an old hay market has now become a major food market with clothing stalls that fill the surrounding streets.

A large part of  ‘Crime and Punishment’ by Dostoevsky is set in the streets of the Sennaya district, where the Sennoy Market is to be found. It is more popularly known as the Dostoevsky District.

It is an excellent area for a spot of shopping in the large department stores. Sennaya Square is a bustling hive of activity where you can find the famous PIK and the large Sennaya Shopping Centre.

For some nice, reasonably-priced home-made food, you should head over to Kafe Adzhika.

If you’re up for a short walk, take a stroll over to Yusupov Palace, located on the edge of the River Moika and one of the most spectacular monuments to classicism to be found in Saint Petersburg.

Sitni Market

On the small Zayachy Island in the River Neva is the true historical centre of the city: Peter and Paul Fortress, the original citadel of Saint Petersburg. Peter I the Great ordered its construction in 1703 and it contains such remarkable buildings as the Peter and Paul Cathedral, where all the Tsars from Peter I the Great to Nicholas II and his family are buried. Standing 122 metres tall, the cathedral bell tower is the highest point in the city.

Although initially designed for defensive purposes, it never needed to be used for that but rather served as a prison until 1917. Its most famous prisoners included such individuals as Trotski, Dostoevsky and Bakunin.

Also nearby is the Saint Petersburg Zoo and the Political History Museum.

A good choice for something to eat would be the popular Salkhino restaurant where they serve Georgian cuisine. In the evening, you might want to try out the legendary Tunnel Club, the first techno club to open in Russia.

Vernisazh Souvenir Market

Less of a market and more a collection of souvenir stalls, this is to be found behind the Cathedral of the Resurrection of Christ or the Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood and is one of the most popular tourist sites and an attraction in itself. Here you will find many traditional Russian gifts and souvenirs.

The Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood was built on the spot where Tsar Alexander III was killed. The interior and exterior mosaic decorations are fantastic, as are its stained glass windows. The temple was built in the Russian architectural style of the 16th-17th Centuries (pure Russian orthodox) and bears a striking resemblance to Saint Basil’s Cathedral in Moscow’s Red Square.

Its five large bulbous domes decorated in numerous colours and gold, as well as the meticulous detail work that covers the exterior, are yet more features that make this an outstanding piece of architecture.

Imagen de iwillbehomesoon

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In summer, this beautiful island, with pristine white towns clinging to formidable cliff faces, welcomes the European jet set who come to bathe blithely in spectacular private pools with sea views. In parallel, another sector of the population ekes out a living offering donkey tours to Japanese tourists. These are the two faces of contemporary Greece, a land which still preserves that majestic profile of a lingering past, despite things crumbling around it, which has in Santorini a jewel that has not fallen prey to the horror of mass tourism and urban development. Following is a selection of four venues located in the salient spots in this piece of paradise where you can delight in the wonderful local cuisine.

Tranquilo (Perissa)

On a trip to Santorini, sooner or later you happen to find yourself in the vicinity of Perissa, its main claim to fame being its beaches – the Red Beach and the Black Beach. Perissa puts up more modest tourists than those who stay at the fantastic boutique hotels in beautiful Oia, Fira and Imerovigli. Hence, it is a good place to spend the night, as it is full of pretty, picturesque hotels, like the charming Kouros Village where we stayed, whose breakfasts on the terrace we still fondly recall.

By night, its seaside promenade speckled with restaurants is a good place to take cover from the exorbitant prices of other spots on the island and enjoy their down-to-earth Greek cooking. One such venue is Tranquilo, a beach bar with sea views where reggae sounds out continually and their friendly dreadlocked staff follow slow-food precepts to the letter, serving up delicious 0-km organic Greek food at laughable prices. Be sure to order youvetsi (Greek pasta) or one of their bio macro-salads.

Sphinx Wine Bar (Oia)

This restaurant in Oia, which opened just a few months ago, is the perfect spot for indulging in Greek wine and cuisine with creative flourishes based mainly on fish. It does not have sea views, but it does have a magical terrace in an alleyway in that beautiful, fairy-tale village, and its success is endorsed by that of its big brother – the Sphinx Restaurant in the capital, Fira.

This secluded corner, decorated in exquisite taste and with a cellar tailored to sybarites, has a spectacular wine list, which Panagiotis, their sommelier, knows by heart and will lecture you on in depth. Their array of dishes ranges from lobster with octopus to carpaccio and the odd nod to vegan and vegetarian cooking, as well as salads as their super-foods and desserts with such suggestive names as When Mango Meets Citrus.

The Wine Bar (Imerovigli)

At the Hotel Heliotopos in Imerovigli we came across an area called The Wine Bar which we advise you to try with an open mind and palate, prepared to taste more-than-interesting Greek wines. Located in a small natural cellar, which contributes to preserving the wine and endows the experience with a touch of magic, you can taste countless marvels produced from the local grape variety known as Assyrtico. We recommend you take your glass with you onto the terrace at dusk, to witness one of the best sunsets on earth.

Koukoumavlos (Fira)

In Fira, the capital, you have to tread carefully. There, all the restaurants look wonderful, with spectacular views over the sea, but you have a good chance of ending up with an apology for a moussaka. The capital of Santorini is crammed with dubious tourist draws, like the donkey ride that took us to the ferry which leads to a volcano, or the exorbitantly priced restaurant tourist traps. You should avoid making the mistakes we did, like becoming spellbound by the views and letting yourself be cajoled by a bearded waiter, a cross between Bardem and Varoufakis. So, take our advice and go for Koukoumavlos, a superb choice. Their €68 menu is a good way of enjoying the essence of this restaurant’s offerings. They have specialised in Mediterranean cuisine for the last 30 years, have endorsements from the public and critics alike, and the spot affords fantastic views of the volcano.

Text and photos by Laura Conde of Gastronomistas.com