Lanzarote in Body and Soul
“Everyone tells me I ought to get some exercise, that it’s good for my health. But, I have never heard anyone telling a sportsperson they ought to do some reading.” This statement by Saramago prompted me to emphasise here the importance of striking a balance between tourist or sporting hyperactivity while travelling, and living out the experiences of others. Yes, friends, this is the advice of a hyperactive person – it does no harm to occasionally plan rest periods into one’s journeys, or to deploy a few good phrases as a mantra for competing. Indeed, Mr Saramago, you were dead right – you can also travel through reading, when your mind can find some rest, while in sport, not everything is physical. But, why Saramago in a post about Lanzarote? I found out – and high time it was too, for someone who has travelled to the island so often – that the Nobel prize-winning writer had spent his final years on Lanzarote. There, in the village of Tías, you will come across “A Casa” as he liked to call his home. Lanzarote was Saramago’s other homeland. “A whole lifetime to get here”, he announced, when he settled on this southerly island. The landscape of Lanzarote, the volcanoes, its warm nights, the peacefulness and the island’s inhabitants led him to write many of his articles, novels and diaries at his home in the Tías municipality. As the illustrious writer asserted, “This is not my land, this land of mine”, a phrase shown on the sculpture as a homage to him in front of “A casa” and “La Biblioteca”, as his house museum is known. Each and every object in “A Casa” has a special meaning – an olive tree to recall the country of his birth, or the clocks all set to 4 o’clock, as it was at that time he met his widow, Pilar. They all go to make this museum a happy, special place.
We cannot summarise all his work here, but we can choose three phrases that come in handy as motivating mantras at training sessions and competitions:
- There is something inside us with no name, and that is what we really are.
- There is something positive in defeat – it is never lasting. Triumph, however, has something negative – it is never lasting.
- We always end up arriving where someone is waiting for us.
After this short introduction about Saramago and his ties to the island, I must report that I flew to Lanzarote in March to compete in the tri122 de Costa Teguise. This is a triathlon I had advised you to consider, together with the Challenge Fuerteventura (April), as possible warm-up races for the Ironman Lanzarote, which is held in May each year, starting and finishing in Puerto del Carmen. The tri122 event went off well, without incident, although it was windy. The swim took place off the Playa de las Cucharas (where we went windsurfing the next day); the bike course had been altered from previous years, while the foot race was along the esplanade. My advice for this race would be very similar to the pointers I gave you in the Ironman Lanzarote post, so I won’t go into any detail there. For accommodation, I decided to stay at the Barceló, which is right on the Costa Teguise. I was pleasantly surprised to learn first-hand that they would soon have a better, specific programme for sportspeople in their facilities, given that, unlike the opposite side of the island, which we visited on the previous trip, here you can do open-water swimming, something we triathletes appreciate. In short, if you’re looking for wind and waves, the area of Famara is great and, to swim, windsurf and enjoy the beach, Costa Teguise would be the best option.
On a gastronomic note, this time I would choose two proposals:
- Before the race, a good choice for stocking up on carbohydrates is Portobello. Listen up – this is a markedly family setup based on homemade Italian food. Noteworthy is the fact that the owner was kind and helpful.
- The second proposal, for after the race, is La Bohemia. I believe it’s the best place in the Costa Teguise area. Their meat and roast are delicious and the service is excellent and friendly. Don’t worry, if you don’t eat meat, there are many other dishes to choose from on the menu.
As for the visits listed in the previous posting, we overlooked some of the island’s “great hits”, which I can reveal here – Playa de Jablillos, Playa Mujeres, Playa de Papagallo and Lago Verde. They are all splendid options for strolling and switching off, and even for reading! Also, if you like diving, there are facilities to discover scuba diving on the same beach where we went windsurfing.
You might ask: if I’m interested in sport in Lanzarote, are there any other interesting competitions on the island? Well, yes – there is the 70.3 Lanzarote on 19 September, and the 4 stage Mountain Bike and La Santa Duathlon in January. After these recommendations in two different Lanzarote posts, we’ll soon be hopping to another island, as I’m starting to get curious about hiking trails. Both Trans Gran Canaria, which takes place from 4 to 6 March 2016, and Transvulcania en la Palma, in May, are important enough on the international running calendar to be considering them when planning for next season.
Did you sign up for Ironman Lanzarote in the end? Book your ticket here if you’ve enrolled, or go for another date if you want to find out why everyone is training or competing in the Canary Islands.
Text by Raúl Casañas
Images by Ginés Díaz, Jules/Lanzarote InformacionTabayesco, Idoia Núñez
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Amongst beaches and dunes
Fuerteventura’s volcanic origin gives a great natural beauty, with miles and miles of white sand and turquoise sea, sun for the whole year and a very characteristic flora and fauna you’ll discover in the different natural parks. It is perfect for water sports such as surfing , diving , windsurfing and kitesurfing , with a lot of schools and training courses specilized in these sports , and it is also a good place for hiking .
Some things you should not miss if you visit Fuerteventura
Cofete Beach is located in the south of island and surrounded by mountains. It is easily reached from Morro Jable by a narrow road, though its complicated access makes it not too crowded . There are 12 miles of pristine beach , where there is no building but only open sea, has become one of the most famous of all the Canary Islands. Here takes place the traditional release of turtles to begin their new life in freedom. In the dock of Morro Jable you can also visit the turtles’s kindergarden. It opens to the public Monday through Friday from 9:00 to 13:00 h.
Corralejo’s Dunes and its great beaches in the municipality of La Oliva, running from Three Islands hotel to Barreta’s beach . They are placed within the Natural Park of Corralejo’s Dunes , which has more than 2600 acres, and forms a landscape of exceptional beauty. Feel the tingle of turquoise waters on your feet and relax with that wonderful feeling that happens when you are in these desert dunes next to the crystal clear sea. Within the park it is also the mountain Esmeralda , a natural area of great historical and geological value, some call it the magic mountain.
Opposite the Dunes Park there is Islote de Lobos, a small island attached to Fuerteventura which owes its name to the ancient seals that at some point came to populate the island, also known as sea lions. You can reach it by taking one of the boats that leave from the port of Corralejo. You can tour Islote de Lobos on foot or by bicycle, visiting some of its points of interest, such as the mountain of La Caldera, its coves and swim in its natural pools or explore the wonderful deep sea.
The ancient capital of Bentancuria is largely the essence of the island. Founded in 1405 by the Norman conqueror Jean de Bethencourt is at the bottom of a picturesque valley. Lose yourself in its local elegant craft shops. Some of the pieces are made with techniques inherited from the natives, and museums like the Casa Museo Arquebiologico or Centro Insular de Artesanía. Discover also its architecture, especially church of Santa Maria de Betancuria , fully restored and open to the public.
Picture by Thomas Fietzek
We’ll be there. If you want to come too, check out our flights here.
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A Holiday at Sea – Sighting Killer Whales off Tarifa
From mid-July to mid-September, around 50 killer whales grouped into five families can be sighted in the Strait of Gibraltar off Tarifa. And, if you’re a lover of these giant mammals, what an adventure you can have watching whales, dolphins and killer whales in their natural environment, toying with vessels and swimming to-and-fro through this sheet of water that joins the Mediterranean to the Atlantic Ocean.
CIRCE (Conservation, Information and Research on Cetaceans) estimates that the striped, bottlenose, and common dolphin, and the short-finned pilot whale have their habitat in this Strait separating Europe and Africa. However, in mid-spring there are also sporadic sightings of sperm whales and such stunning mammals as the finback whale, measuring 20 metres long and weighing over 80 tons – one of the largest animals on the planet.
Killer whales are more on show in summer as they chase the tuna fish that head across the Strait of Gibraltar to the Atlantic at that time of year.
Tarifa is the Spot
But, the fun doesn’t stop there. Tarifa has a lot more to offer as it is one of Europe’s most attractive and cosmopolitan towns. It is a meeting point for young people from all over the world, drawn by the spectacular beaches and by the windsurfing and kitesurfing. If to that you add the entertainment provided by nature itself, the fun is guaranteed!
For those of you who prefer to be onterra firma,you can go for other activities you are sure to relish. In Tarifa, you can visit the beaches of Valdevaqueros and Bolonia, with their massive dunes which on clear days afford views of North Africa. Another essential enclave is Baelo Claudia, one of the major archaeological sites on the Peninsula. It is ideal for gauging what a typical Roman settlement would have been like, with its amphitheatre, roads, fish factories and walls. This was an important Roman settlement as it was here that the famous garum sauce was made and exported to Rome. The fish sauce was made of fermented entrails and regarded by Romans as an aphrodisiac.
Another of Tarifa’s emblematic monuments is the Castle of Guzmán El Bueno whose claim to fame is provided by the chilling tale of his preferring to hand over his son to the invaders than surrender the stronghold of Tarifa.
Make sure you don’t leave Tarifa without first trying their fresh fish, either in the bars or the beach stalls known as chiringuitos,or without tasting the delicious pastries with their long, Arab tradition in the town centre’s pastry shops.
Here you will be treated to a host of options, each with their own charm. So, take up your backpack, Vueling and fly to Jerez to enjoy one of southern Europe’s most powerful natural spots.
Text by Amparo Ortega and María del Águila Heras (Patronato Turismo de Cádiz)
Images by Patronato Turismo de Cádiz
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A train to the clouds
A front row seat to touch the sky. That's Gran Canaria, an island with many points to observe the firmament. High peaks and clear, dark skies are some of the advantages to its contemplation in the island. Also, and thanks to the phenomenon called by locals 'Panza de Burro', which makes the clouds gather low above sea level, and that blocks the light pollution of cities.
Some companies, such as the Astronomical Observatory Temisas, thst carries out many of such activities in different places of the island. And AstroEduca with its teaching about astronomy.
Tejeda and the summits of Gran Canaria
The protected landscape of great beauty of Las Cumbres, spans a very important sector of the north and northeast of the island of Gran Canaria, in the municipalities of Artenara, Gáldar, Guide, Moya, Tejeda, Valleseco, Valsequillo and San Mateo.
Crowning the summit, in the center of the island is the highest point of Gran Canaria, Pico de las Nieves. Let´s dare to climb it by bike!
The best waves for surfers
On Gran Canaria there are many schools to learn surfing, windsurfing and kite if you are a begginer, or toimprove your level if you already have some knowledge. One way to release adrenaline while you enjoy the famous beaches of the island like Maspalomas, Playa del Inglés, Mogán, Puerto Rico, Agaete, Meloneras and San Augustine, to name some of the most emblematic.
Vegueta: Extremely charming neighborhood
Vegueta is really beautiful and concentrates the main architectural attractions of Las Palmas. Near the beach of Las Canteras is one of the biggest attractions of the city.
It is recommended to visit the area slowly, savoring its rich architecture and some of her jewelry as Literary Cabinet, the squares of Santa Ana, the Holy Spirit and of Santo Domingo and churches that dot.
It is also highly recommended a bath in one of the best urban beaches: Las Canteras. A good place to enjoy beautiful sunsets.
Sailors villages
As Agaete, where you'll find plenty of restaurants to enjoy a tasty meal of local fish and other fresh seafood. Do not leave without trying a good grilled fish-based groupers, traveling, mullet and octopus or fish paella.
Should come to the old salt Agaete, now converted into a fantastic natural pools.
Teror. Pure essence
Teror Teror or Villa Mariana is one of the oldest settlements on the island and an old town in the area around his basilica declared historical-artistic heritage. The Basilica of the Virgen del Pino, is a place of pilgrimage for all the inhabitants of Gran Canaria. And Teror Square, a good place to appreciate the typical Canarian architecture balconies.
The village is located in an area of outstanding natural beauty and ecological value as the Natural Park Doramas Azuaje, with ravines and Moya, Pino Santo or Parque de Sintes.
A place well worth discovering! Check out our flights here.
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