What to do for a weekend in Bologna?
If you are just about to land in Bologna, and you wonder what to do in this medieval city in northern Italy, capital of Emilia-Romagna region and home to the oldest university in Europe, you just hit the mark: following we suggest some of the amazing experiences you can have in this lovely land known as La Rossa, due to the red facades of their buildings:
1.-Take a walk around Portico di San Luca, the longest in the world
In Bologna is easy to meet with History in every corner. Take a walk down to its famous porch leading fromPorta Saragozza, crossing Arco del Meloncello, to Sanctuary de la Madonna di San Luca. It is a tradition between locals and pilgrims and you may admire this spectacular renaissance architecture whose length is 3.8 km and 666 arcs. Once at the top of the hill where this iconic and majestic sanctuary stands, you may enjoy from its stunning views to the city and to the Apennines. The most athletic ones can do this tour running or biking along the rails ouside of the porch.
2.- Discover historic center in Bologna
If you go deep into the historic center, you will know the real paradigm for Bolognese life. You should begin by Piazza Maggiore and Piazza Neptune, where there stands many monuments as the Basilica di San Petronio and you will come across different palaces, crossing Piazza San Stefano with its respective church and ending at Piazza di Porta Ravegnana, where you will find Le Due Torri, the iconic towersGarisenda and Asinelli. You can go up this latter for an old city’s panoramic view until five in the afternoon. The best pizzeria in town, Due Torri, is at its feet where it is usual to ask for take-away portions for only 2 euros each and quietly eat at Piazza Verdi, where most people get together while gazing at the Teatro Comunale.
3.- Move to the Bolognese Night’s rhythm
Bologna is a youth-oriented city. Proof of this is the great university atmosphere there and the best way to live it is by going to Via del Pratello or to La Scuderia in Piazza Verdi to get ready with the typical ” aperitivi ” based on some snacks, pizza and spritz before going party.. There are plenty of bars and music pubs on this street where sure the fun begins. In Via Broccaindosso there is a curious medical students association with such a great atmosphere and live concerts . This is a small and bizarre venue you get down by a staircase , from which you can enjoy live gigs while browsing the medical books from their shelves . The most odd combination, the most entertaining it is. Bring your own drinks is allowed. Finally , we should mention one of the best electronic music club in Bologna , disco Link, located on the outskirts of the city.
4.- Give Yourself A Treat
Via della Independenzia is the center for Bologna’s comerce. Also, you can go to Montagnola‘s market tracking its many stalls because surely you will end up with some wonderful piece. If you prefer more traditional and chic shopping, you’d better go to the city center, where you will find all kinds of boutiques and a wide range of well known brands.
5.- Try the best of its cuisine
To feel like a true bolognese, enter a “salumerie” or deli and take one mortadella di Bologna or tortellini, region’s typical food . You can not say goodbye to this wonderful city without tasting the wonderful “taggliatelle Ragu-style accompanied by a good wine”. La Trattoria del Rosso is a perfect place for this. To taste local products, Tamburini is a classic, having a shop to purchase a variety of delicatessen. They serve tables of meats and cheeses, oils and local wines. Il Veliero is the ideal restaurant for fish lovers, whose specialty is “risotto ai frutti di mare”. Finally, icecreams at Gelateria Gianni or La Sorbetteria are a must.
Picture by Szs
By Blanca Frontera
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Floating Gastronomy – in Venice
Venice envelops you in its melancholy, mist and light. It is also soothing. If you let yourself drift along that winding canal that dominates the city, your visit will flow, too. Notice how there are no cars and that, despite the flood of tourists that enter the city each day, this is a silent destination. Whether you find yourself on a bridge, at an intersection, in the heart of the Campo or in a narrow alleyway, wherever you feel famished, your deliverance is at hand. Not only because you can get anywhere fast on a gondola, but because the capital of Veneto is full of places to enjoy the cuisine. Either at street level or up high, with those views that swayed and swathed writers and intellectuals of all eras. Following are some of those spots with a sparkle of their own and a unique offering.
Fish
Given Venice’s seafaring nature, what could be better than to order and savour the city’s fresh fish? A prime spot for eating fish virtually from the market to your plate is the Antiche Carampane for its proximity to the Rialto Market. This simple, family restaurant is frequented by Venetians who know where to find the best of the best, as well as by well-informed celebrities. Here you will witness respect for food and for Venice’s most characteristic culinary tradition, both on and off the menu.
Street Food
In Venice you will wander about willy-nilly to come to grips with its soul. If time is short for having a relaxed meal, an advisable option is the street food. A tramezzino (wedge-shaped sandwich) at some café, or a pizza al taglio (sliced pizza) at Antico Forno, are both generous snacks. But, if you’re after something more authentic without having to sit down to it, better settle for Acqua & Mais, a dainty eatery which makes the most out of the Venetian culinary repertoire when it comes to a practical packaged takeaway. Your eyes will pop out at the fried fish, croquettes, polenta and the classic creamed codfish.
The Confectionery
Here there are two historic and thus essential locations. Two pastry shops, quite a long way from each other, have coexisted as successful local landmarks. However, each one has evolved differently over the years. At Rosa Salva they still serve classic single-helping pastries, buns and ice-creams in an atmosphere more akin to a bar. Colussi, for its part, is celebrated for its focaccia veneziana, which resembles panettone or sweet bread in shape and tastes like a really good ensaimada. It is ideal when eaten with hot chocolate from the same establishment, where they make dough and bake on the premises every day.
Wine and Glasses
Estro - Vino e Cucina is a modern gastrobar and wine bar with a lot of character where you can eat typical Italian dishes and raw fish – a hallmark of the Italo-Japanese chef, Mashiro Homma – marinated in the wine of your choice from among a wide selection within view of the tables. The wine has a “double label” and can also be purchased.
The historical Osteria ai Pugni focuses on aperitifs, sausage boards with regional fare, a variety of different flavoured croquettes and the typical tramezzini with unusual fillings. A striking feature is their wine, served by the glass, which can be savoured in a relaxed atmosphere alongside the Ponte dei Pugni, in the heart of the Dorsoduro district.
Paradiso Perduto
You can either sit at the bar or at one of the many tables in this huge, bustling restaurant which provides live music on Monday nights to fire the after-dinner ambience. Their forte is large helpings of homemade dishes. Their fresh fish comes highly recommended – complete with matching side dishes or contorni (vegetables, field mushrooms or roast potatoes)–as do the lasagna, fagioli (beans) and tiramisu, a dessert that originated in Venice. Keith Richards once played the piano here…
The Vegetarian Streak
The fact that you have to book in advance for La Zucca is the best compliment you can pay it. The artificers of the restaurant have managed to remain faithful to the origins of the business, where pumpkin is the major attraction and the basis of many of the homemade dishes on the reasonably priced menu.
Accommodation
If you can afford it, the Hotel Danieli is one of those places that leave their mark on you. Commensurate with the beauty of Venice, this luxury hotel is part of the city’s living history. It is just two-minutes’ walk from St. Mark’s Square and its two highly distinct buildings – the rooms in each hardly resemble one another – recreate the splendour of times past with an evocative atmosphere that fits in well with their 21st-century service. Their majestic Carnival ball, held near the lounge, is celebrated, while you can have a unique, enogastronomic experience in their new Wine Suite. You can also have one in the Danieli restaurant and terrace, a spot which entices you with its views over the Grand Canal and the Adriatic, as does the creative fare provided by their executive chef, Dario Parascandolo, featuring perennial classics and in-house recipes based on local products.
Souvenir
If you appreciate little gifts and good craftsmanship, treat yourself to a book marker, a notebook, a print, a postcard or one of the hand-painted recipe books by the artist, Nicola Tenderini. You cannot leave Venice without a keepsake that takes you back to the city, as far away as you might be.
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Text and photos by Carme Gasull and Belén Parra from Gastronomistas
more infoSplendour Nobility & Beauty on the Loire
About an hour’s journey from Paris lies the Loire Valley, an area of vital importance in France’s history and one of the country’s fortes when it comes to tourism. The valley played a vital strategic role in the past – while it was there that, in the Middle Ages, defence works were first erected to contain the Vikings, centuries later it was the setting for the bloody battle between the English and French during the Hundred Years’ War. The reign of Charles VII marked a turning point for this beautiful valley as it was then that it reached its moment of maximum splendour and became the favourite haunts of the French nobility. They embarked on a spectacular spree of castle building on rural lands, the castles becoming veritable recreational grounds for giving free rein to their hedonistic urges. Subsequently, the French Revolution wrought havoc among most of them, leading to the loss of a considerable portion of the area’s heritage. The castles were later restored with a view to recovering their bygone splendour and they have now become one of France’s leading tourist attractions.
According to the association, “Châteaux de la Loire, Vallée des Rois” (Castles of the Loire, Valley of the Kings), which is tasked with managing the Loire Valley’s heritage, the region boasts some 70 listed sites which, in addition to castles, also include abbeys, churches and museums. Clearly, it would be madness to attempt seeing it all in one go. Visitors usually make a selection of sites to see before their tour. Here, then, are some of the standout castles:
Château de Chambord – This former hunting lodge of King Francis I is one of the kingpins of the French Renaissance in which the medieval tradition blends seamlessly with classical Italian structures. It is one of the largest and most popular castles on the route. The forest of chimneys towering over the rooftop and the double spiral staircase in the interior are absolutely stunning.
Château de Cheverny – Belonging to the Hurault family, is also dates from the Renaissance and is noteworthy for its interior decoration. Curiously enough, the building was the source of inspiration for Hergé, the creator of Tintin, when he drewChâteau de Moulinsart(Marlinspike Hall).
Château de Chenonceau – Also known as “The Ladies’ Chateau”, it is a veritable icon on the Loire châteaux route and one of the most widely visited. Built in the 16th century, one of its most striking features is its location, spanning the river Cher.
Château de Blois – The official residence of the French Kings during the Renaissance. Of the many tales that arose around it is one that claims Joan of Arc was blessed in its chapel before leading her army out to relieve the besieged city of Orleans. It now operates as a museum.
Château d'Amboise – Originally a medieval fortress, it was turned into a royal residence during the reigns of Charles VIII and Francis I. Its claim to fame is that Leonardo da Vinci was buried here after spending the last three years of his life in the castle.
Château de Langeais – Regarded as the oldest fortress in France, much of its medieval charm remains intact, including the drawbridge, which strikes a marked contrast with the Renaissance style of the west facade.
Château de Chaumont – One of its numerous owners was Catherine de Medici who counted Nostradamus among the many guests she entertained there. The garden, designed by Henri Duchêne, is where an annual International Garden Festival is currently hosted from late April to mid-October.
Five days is considered to be the minimum amount of time you need to spend on a Loire Valley itinerary. You can plan a linear route, starting from a point nearest Paris and ending on the far side (or the other way around), or stay in one of the major cities along the route, like Orleans, Blois and Tours, and make sorties from there to various landmark sites you have chosen. The most comfortable way to get around is by car, although there are other alternatives, including availing yourself of the many bus tours to be had, and combining them to suit your agenda. The fittest among you can opt to tour these lands by bicycle, taking advantage of the comparatively flat terrain.
Be sure to take a flight to Paris and head for one of these valleys with their pedigree collection of castles.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Frédérique Voisin-Demery, Thomas Steiner, Benh LIEU SONG, MFSG, Jean-Christophe BENOIST
more infoThe Best Pizzerias in Naples
The earliest available document bearing mention of the word “pizza” dates from the year 997 and was unearthed in the town of Gaeta. Originally derived from the breads made by the ancient Greeks and Egyptians, it was the Spanish settlers of Naples who added its typical tomato base in the 16th century. However, it was in 1889 that the master pizza maker, Raffaele Esposito, created the pizza Magherita in honour of the thus-named Queen of Italy and the formula stuck. There is no corner of the world where pizza is not eaten, but the Naples variety – the vera pizza, baked in a wood-fired oven– is still the best. If you visit the Partenopea city, these are the pizzerias we recommend you head for when feeling peckish.
Brandi
Legend has it that Raffaele Esposito, the chef at the Pizzeria di Pietro e Basta Cosi, created the pizza margheritain 1889. Made as a tribute to the Queen of Italy, it was topped with tomato, mozzarella and basil to produce the colours of the Italian flag and soon became the pizza par excellence of Naples. The restaurant in question is now called Brandi and it still serves one of the tastiest pizzas in town, in addition to the star dishes of Neapolitan cuisine in which fish and seafood figure prominently.
Da Attilio
Opened in 1938, this venue is where Attilio Bachetti (grandson) continues to make one of the best pizzas in Naples. In an out-of-the-way spot in one of the most traditional quarters, Da Attilio serve up some of the most innovative creations in town, notably the pizza carnevale, a scrumptious base covered with tomato, mozzarella and sausages, and the edges filled in with ricotta cheese.
Da Gennaro
In 1959, Gennaro Cristiano closed down his fried fish street stall and opened his own restaurant, thus starting one of the most celebrated pizza-making lineages in Naples. One of the must-try eats on the menu at Da Gennaro is their endless half-a-metre-long pizza, and, even more so, their farfalla, a butterfly-shaped pizza with a filled centre and a guest’s choice two-flavour addition on the wings. Via Plinio 21
Da Michele
Master pizza makers since 1870, their history and the quality of their offerings is inversely proportional to the length of their menu. Da Michele serve only two kinds of pizza – the traditional classic, margherita,and the marinara, based on tomato, garlic, oregano and oil. While the choice is extremely narrow, the quality is excellent. If theirs is not the best pizza in Naples, it certainly comes close to it.
Di Matteo
In July 1994, Naples hosted the G7 Summit, during which the US President at the time, Bill Clinton, felt like a pizza. He duly fulfilled his desire by visiting Di Matteo, and his was a good choice. It is so popular among Neapolitans that rarely is there a day without guests having to queue up. When your turn comes, be sure to order their magnificent fried pizza, or else a margherita,which really explodes on the palate.
Il Pizzaiolo Del Presidente
The Via dei Tribunali, in the heart of Naples’ historic centre, must be the street with the highest density of essential pizzerias in the world. In the consequent list of restaurants, Il Pizzaiolo Del Presidente should be set in capitals and highlighted in fluorescent marker. In the colours and aromas of their pizzas you will discover the finest essences of the traditional Neapolitan pizza.
La Notizia
Don’t be deceived by its apparent simplicity – at La Notizia the margherita is a pleasure on the taste buds. Perched on the hill overlooking Spaccanapoli, the ride to the pizzeria by funicular railway is a veritable happening. A sublimated experience once you have sat down and started biting into their exquisite creation baked in a wood-fired oven, their tomato, mozzarella and fresh basil combined in perfect harmony.
Pellone
Tradition has it that pellone is the joy experienced when your pizza has a diameter that overspills the circumference of the plate it is served on. This venue is a winning bet for both epicures and insatiable diners. Heirs to the family tradition, the De Luca brothers – Mimmo, Franco and Antimo – have drawn praise and even reverence from leading connoisseurs for their pizza margherita,the marinara and the house speciality, fried calzone with ricotta and an escarole filling.
Sorbillo
For many, the charismatic celebrity, Gino Sorbillo, grandson of the pizzaiolo, Luigi Sorbillo, the first in the line of the family pizza-makers, is the current king of Neapolitan pizzas, Baked in a wood-fire oven and massive in size, it would be a sin to pass up their marinara. It you’re still hungry after that, for dessert let yourself be tempted by their semifreddo, which is simply superb.
Starita
Cinema lovers may well be familiar with this eatery, as it served as the backdrop to The Gold of Naples, a classic by Vittorio De Sica in which the main stars are the stunning pair, Silvana Mangano and Sophia Loren. Opened in 1901 as a wine cellar by Antonio Starita, his grandson, also named Antonio Starita, has gradually consolidated it as one of the most lauded pizzerias in the city of Vesuvius.
Text by Oriol Rodríguez for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by yashima, Bex Walton
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