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Alternative Prague

On account of its historic legacy, Prague is a jewel sculpted by the passage of time and one of the leading tourist destinations. If you happen to be in the capital of the Czech Republic, you are bound to visit its popular castle, cross the well-known Charles Bridge and have a revitalising Pilsner in any of the city’s myriad beer halls. But, when you are done with the typical tour for flip-flop and sock-wearing guiris, set off to explore the Prague which Czechs usually keep to themselves. This is the city, as fascinating as it is alternative, which we reveal in the following.

David  Černý
David Černý has turned Prague into his own huge museum. A St Wenceslas on an upside-down horse, a statue of two men peeing facing each other, Freud hanging from a building, babies transformed into machines… These are but some of the works which the most widely acclaimed yet corrosive and controversial contemporary Czech artist has strewn about the streets, avenues and public spaces of the Czech capital.

DOX
DOX
is housed in a refurbished building in the working class suburb of Holešovice. Inaugurated in 2008, Prague’s contemporary art centre boasts the largest collection of modern works in the country. This is a must-visit venue for all art lovers. We recommend you end the visit by making a foray into their interesting shop – their café is nothing to scoff at either.

The Dancing House
Originally known as Fred and Ginger, in honour of the famous dancing couple, it was eventually named The Dancing House. This construction with its fascinating curved forms is highly conspicuous in a city celebrated for its centuries-old buildings. It was designed by Frank Gehry, the architect behind Bilbao’s Guggenheim Museum, who executed the project in collaboration with the Croatian-Czech architect, Vlado Milunić.

Malá Strana
The Malá Strana district is a refuge for the inhabitants of Prague when inundated by droves of tourists. A backwater of calm and quiet in the heart of the city, it is bounded by several green areas, notably Kampa Island. The latter is separated from Malá Strana by a channel popularly known as the Devil’s Stream and its basks in bucolic beauty all year around. It is the ideal spot to get away from it all and to enjoy a stint of reading while sipping a coffee in one of the inviting cafés secreted along its streets.

Náplavka
This spot in the south of Prague’s Old Town, on the right bank of the river Moldava, was once the major meeting place of hippies. It has now become the focal point of hipster Prague. The area has a thriving art and culture scene and the best time to visit is on Saturdays, when the so-called Farmer’s Market is held from ten in the morning until nine in the evening. It is devoted to regional farm products, with stalls selling organic produce, craft beer and street food. You are likely to even gobble up the paper serviettes (recycled ones, of course).

Cubist Prague
When it comes to Cubist art, what normally springs to mind are works by such figures as Pablo Picasso, Georges Braque, Jean Metzinger and Juan Gris. And, if we push it a little further, the sculptures of Alexander Archipenko, Jacques Lipchitz and Henri Laurens, and the literary experiments of Guillaume Apollinaire. However, we hardly ever think of Cubism as applied to architecture which had in Prague once of its paramount expressions, thanks to the architectural trio made up of Josef Chochol, Pavel Janák and Josef Gočár. Visitors can delight in a number of their constructions around the city, but you should make a special point of seeing the building which epitomises the movement, Gočár’s House of the Black Madonna. Located on the corner of Celetná Street and Ovocný Square in the heart of Prague, it now houses the Czech Museum of Cubism.

SoNa
Wallpaper Magazine rated it one of the classiest districts in the world. Indeed, SoNa (short for “South of Národní”) is worthy of that distinction, what with its winding streets, cafés bustling with lively folk and exotic restaurants where you can sink your teeth into specialities from some of the remotest spots on earth. And, if you feel like doing some shopping, wander down Karoliny Svetle, where you will come across the stores of the most avant-garde local designers.

Vyšehrad
No alternative guidebook to Prague would leave out a visit to Vyšehrad, the Czech capital’s “other castle”. Rather than a castle, it is actually a ruined fort. Apart from interest in the landmark itself, Vyšehrad affords some of the finest views of Prague and the river Moldava.

The Alternative Tour

If you’re keen on delving further into alternative Prague, you can get help from Prague Alternative Tours. They will take you through the flip side of the Czech capital, past the walls displaying the city’s most amazing street art and to the flashiest clubs. They will also get you into the most innovative contemporary art galleries, and community centres where you can meet the most promising young local creators.

Book your Vueling to Prague and gear up to discover the alternative side of the Czech capital.

Text by Oriol Rodríguez

Images by Nan Palmero, Marmontel, Jose Mesa, Achim Hepp

 

 

 

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Stockholm in Five Museums

The lively city is a hatchery of new trends in music, technology and design, innovations which often go viral around the world. Its art centres –museums, galleries, spaces for creation– are the places for taking the city’s pulse and feeling its spirit. Let’s visit the most emblematic venues, each of them a world unto itself, and immerse ourselves in the city’s contemporary art, photography, decorative arts, and music.

Stockholm boasts a rich, thousand-year-old cultural heritage, with wonderful architecture, museums, the Royal Palace, and the perfectly preserve medieval city centre, the Gamla Stan. Here, trendy bars and fine restaurants mingled with historic cafés and pubs. Similarly, modern shopping streets and malls feature all the major international brands, along with a stunning variety of local boutiques unusual shops, and the city’s museums range from the classic Vasa Museum to ABBA The Museum, and Fotografiska. In Stockholm there are more than a hundred cultural and recreational attractions to choose from. Here’s our choice of just five:

The Vasa Museum

The Vasamuseet features the Vasa, the world’s sole surviving, almost fully intact 17th C. ship, a real artistic treasure. More than 95% of the ship is original, and it is adorned with numerous carved wooden sculpture. The 69-metre-long, 64-gun warship sank on her maiden voyage in 1628, and was salvaged 333 years later, in 1961. Nearly fifty years were spent restoring the ship to her original splendour. Her three masts tower above the building that now houses the Vasa. The museum is today the most popular in all Scandinavia, and receives more that a million visitors each year. Ten separate exhibits illustrate different aspects of the ship, including what life aboard was like. Children are admitted gratis.

Royal Palace

The 600-room Royal Palace or Kungahus, still the residence of the Swedish royal family, is one of Europe’s largest palaces. It is open to the public and houses no fewer than five museums. It was built in the Italian baroque style in the 18th C. on the site of the 13th C. Tre Kronor (Three Crowns) palace which burned to the ground in 1697. Visitors first see the splendid reception halls whose breathtaking furnishings and adornments date from the 18th and 19th centuries. Next is the Rikssalen (Hall of State) with the silver throne used by Queen Christina (1629-1689). Also worth seeing are the Ordenssalarna (apartments of the orders of chivalry), the Gustav III’s Museum of Antiquities, the Kronor Tre Museum, and the Treasury.

The Royal Palace also houses the Armoury, with its marvellous collection of royal costumes and body armour, the coronation carriages, and the magnificent horses in the Royal Stables. The colourful changing of the guard ceremony can be watched at 12:15 h. on weekdays and at 13:15 h. on Sundays and holidays.

Fotografiska

One of the world’s largest photography museums, Fotografiska stages as many as four major and twenty smaller exhibitions each year. It shows the works of Swedish and foreign photographers, both established and emerging. The new restaurant in the museum is run by master chef Paul Svensson and has already won awards for its seasonal and ecological dishes. From the café on the top floor visitors can enjoy some of the best views of Stockholm.

Moderna Museet

Here we find one of Europe’s most important contemporary art collections, with works dating from the early 20th C. to the present, including masterpieces by Picasso, Dali, Matisse, and Sweden’s own Siri Derkert. Its permanent collection and its temporary exhibitions make it a must for visiting art lovers. The Moderna Museet is located on Stockholm’s fairytale Skeppsholmen island in a spectacular building by the Spanish architect Rafael Moneo. Its restaurant affords lovely views Djurgården park and Strandvägen boulevard.

ABBA The Museum

Music, clothing, lyrics, videos, and interactive displays concerning Sweden’s most celebrated pop group ABBA can be seen and heard in this museum on the island of Djurgården. The famous quartet, founded in 1970, sold more than 378 million records before is disbanded in 1983. Its biggest hit, “Waterloo”, reached the top of the charts in 1974. The 1994 musical “Mamma Mia” revived interest in the group.

The vibe in Stockholm is open, easy-going, and welcoming. Diversity and innovation are prized. Stockholm is a place the whole world should visit. So, what are you waiting for? Check out our fares here!

Text: Isabel y Luis Comunicación

Illustrations: Visit Stockholm, Ola Ericson

 

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Rome is a Different Kettle of Pasta

This post is another of those roads that lead to Rome. We trust it will persuade you to want to go (or go back) to Italy’s capital. In the eternal city, the pasta, pizza and even aperitifs taste different. The Romans know it, and so do the rest of the Italians. Because, as you well know, there is more than one Italy.

Having landed, strolled and got lost amid all La Grande Bellezza, these are the key destinations for savouring Rome tastefully and with sprezzatura, which has no exact translation – it refers to a nonchalant, seemingly effortless (but studied) attitude characteristic of Italian culture.

Where to eat

Roma Sparita. Located in the Trastevere, in a secluded corner sheltered from the hubbub, where time seems to stand still. Their cacio e peppe is a must, as is the Roman spaghetti par excellence, their seasonal mushroom recommendations and their tiramisu.

Romolo e Remo. Out of the way, but well connected by bus, this traditional trattoria romana is usually chock-full, so it is wise to book ahead. Home cuisine with generous helpings – go for the pasta dishes combined with the best fresh produce, and the pizzas if you’re there in the evening. Warm, obliging service. Open all week.

E-45 Piadineria Romagnola. Near the Vatican, it is ideal for a quick, quality meal. You choose the type of pasta and the filling. They make it on the spot and you can also have a homemade birra or take it out and have it elsewhere. Try the Roman classic, the number 12 on the establishment’s menu.

Taverna Trilussa. This tavern features exquisite antipasti, local sausage and outstanding stir-fries in the Trastevere.

Assunta Madre. On a quiet backstreet running parallel to the river Tevere lies this seafood temple. The fishtank in the entrance is their best testimonial, as are the photos on the walls, featuring celebrities that have graced their establishment.

Da Felice. A must-see trattoria in Trastevere; a family business offering tried and tested recipes. Try the roast lamb and the bucatini all’amatriciana, a type of hollow (or perforated) spaghetti, slightly thicker than the usual. It is typical of the Lazio region and is eaten with amatriciana sauce, which becomes infused in the pasta. Amatriciana is a variation on the different tomato sauces, this one including pork jowl bacon and cheese. The assortment is huge. All’amatriciana means any pasta or dish with this sauce. Order any of their select wines to go with it.

I Luzzi. A family trattoria serving Roman dishes near the Colosseum. Go for the set menu or one of the pizzas. This economical trattoria is in a tourist enclave.

A good ice-cream can be had either at Carapina – try their Nero assoluto – or Vice café.

Where to drink

Roscioli. This salumeria or delicatessen features tastings of pickled produce – mainly types of local sausage and canned foods, although it also boasts an excellent wine bar. If you’re looking for a good wine, you’ll find it here for sure. It’s a bull’s-eye. As are all their Italian specialities.

Café Doney. With its small terrace right on the Via Veneto, this is one of those distinguished cafes relished by both Romans and tourists looking to enjoy a good aperitif in one of Rome’s quieter, more select areas.

Porto Fluviale. A former warehouse restored as a trendy gastronomic enclave in the Termini area. It offers both food and drink but, above all, try their coffee and spritz as an aperitif.

To NY. The interior design and long bar counter dotted with cocktail shakers could not be more eye-catching. Best to drop in at night, with the atmosphere in full swing, and submit to the bartender.

Where to sleep

The Westin Excelsior Roma

An imposing, classical-style hotel just a stone’s-throw away from the Piazza di Spagna and the city’s prime shopping area. A unique spot for indulging in la dolce vita with its full-blown breakfast, its slew of homemade cakes and pies and even side dishes from all over the world. The hotel boasts spacious rooms with views, bathrooms with all manner of amenities, imperial-style salons and a spa to relax and recuperate, before taking in more of Rome. Well placed on the metro (the Barberini stop) and bus routes.

Text and photos by Belén Parra (Gastronomistas)

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At the Beach and in the Desert, without leaving Eilat

It is the coastal and tourist resort par excellence. Eilat is the southernmost city in Israel and lies on the border of Egypt’s Sinai Peninsula. From this bustling city straddling the sea and the desert you can see the mountains of Jordan and Saudi Arabia on the horizon. Four countries come into view with but a single glance – a unique setting.

Once you’ve got your bearings, it’s time to soak up this torrid resort where the thermometer rarely drops below 20 degrees. Indeed, it stays above 30 degrees most of the year around – well, even a bit higher in summer. Oddly enough, it can even happen that, while it is snowing in Jerusalem (quite a common occurrence in winter), you can be roasting in the sun in Eilat, just a four-hour drive away (or one hour, by plane, from Tel Aviv).

Apart from being spoilt by the warmest temperatures, what draws most visitors to Eilat is the Red Sea. Being able to swim in clear, warm, sky-blue, richly-coloured waters is a luxury in a country covered for the most part by such deserts as the Negev, Arava or Judea.

The city’s infrastructure is also a boon. It is designed for the holiday-maker’s benefit, with all the ingredients that a tourist thirsting for leisure, sun and sea could wish for. It boasts a seaside promenade lined with shopping centres and stores brimming with special offers for all kinds of tax-free souvenirs (Eilat is a free port). There are restaurants everywhere, a variety of attractions, particularly for children and families, and a throbbing nightlife with entertainment for those seeking all-nighters. And, most importantly, a lavish supply of holiday hotels of all categories with swimming pools, spas, beach access and all the comforts visitors could need to switch off for a few days.

But, I should emphasise – what visitors to Eilat enjoy most is the coastline studded with marine life. The Red Sea is an underwater paradise for lovers of all types of diving, from the pros to the amateurs.

Even children can take the plunge and dive with dolphins, which is perhaps the activity that both children and adults request most during their stay in Eilat. The experience is well worth trying at the dolphin-reef. It’s easy – all you have to do is put on a tight-fitting wetsuit, adjust your oxygen bottle properly and take everything you need to breathe freely under the water. And, pay attention to the instructor who is going to escort you on your underwater adventure… and let yourself go!

You’ll be taking in the colourful marine wildlife and coral reefs as a plus to the experience of diving down to conquer the seabed with the odd dolphin as your host, who is more than likely to perform a few pirouettes for its prized visitors – a fascinating experience!

Wait! There’s still more – instead of diving with dolphins, if you’d prefer to have your picture taken with sharks, all you have to do is head for the Underwater Observatory Marine Park, an interactive aquarium, most of which is in the open air, which boasts Shark World, the largest shark pool in the Middle East, covering a surface area of 1,000 cubic metres. What visitors enjoy most is when the staff come to feed the sharks. This is undoubtedly the best time to come face to face with these huge, dangerous marine animals. Apart from the shark pool, the aquarium also features a children’s adventure park where infants can stroke and feed various kinds of fish and be treated to futuristic screenings such as “A Journey into the World of Sharks”.

But the sea is not the only attraction in Eilat – the sky is also captivating. It is right now, in spring, that millions of birds fly over that area. In fact, according to the experts, up to 500 million of them! They fly in a south–north direction, the opposite of the tourists, as part of the spectacular spring migration, an essential event for all ornithologists.

Eilat also stands out for its cultural offerings – could it be otherwise? These include such celebrated events as the Chamber Music Festival, an international classic held each year in February. Also in the vicinity is the nearby Timna Park, an exotic attraction where all kinds of adventure sports can be done in the middle of the desert while viewing landscapes worthy of Mars.

What more could you ask for? Check out our flights here.

Text and images by Nani Arenas

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