Cascais a Game of Kings and Spies
Cascais is a Portuguese municipality some 25 kilometres west of Lisbon. It is now a tourist resort with a host of facilities – extensive beaches and secluded coves, a rugged terrain suited to all kinds of sports, culinary offerings based on quality products and endless leisure options. It also has an exciting history, reminding us that this spot in Portugal was once the refuge of royal families and the nobility and a nest of spies during the Second World War.
Today Cascais is a quiet town dotted with small urban beaches and sheltered from the rough Atlantic by a beautiful bay and a formidable fortress. It is well worth taking a relaxing stroll along the beach known as either La Ribeira or Los Pescadores and discovering its beautiful buildings, notably the Palaces of Condes da Guarda and Seixas.
The ocean is one of Cascais' great assets as it supplies the town with its culinary foundations – fish and seafood, prepared in a special way here. Among the most popular dishes in the region are fresh sea bass and white seabream and the delicious Cascais sole, accompanied by fine garnish. They can be ordered in any of the highly varied array of restaurants in the town, from the simplest, economical eateries to the more refined establishments, where culinary innovation is very much in evidence.
In Cascais harbour you can catch sight of luxury yachts, leisure craft and competition boats, as the town and, by extension, the Coast of Estoril, is a worldwide hub of sailing competitions. Apart from this sport, the waters in this part of the Atlantic attract thousands of surfers (particularly to the beaches of Guincho and Carcavelos), windsurfers, paddle surfers and sports fishing enthusiasts, which is increasingly gaining more devotees. The town harbour is also very lively at nightfall as it is full of restaurants, bars and café terraces, ideal for dining or having a drink.
Home of Kings, Land of Spies
In the late 19th century, this region was a pioneer of tourism in Portugal. Indeed, in 1870, the Portuguese royal family chose the Cascais citadel for their summer residence on account of its excellent location. It was also the destination of the nobility and European families of noble lineage, among them Spain’s monarch in exile, who lived in Villa Giralda for many years.
Apart from being a town that breathes tradition, owing to its geographical situation, during World War II Cascais attracted countless spies, including Ian Fleming (best known for having created the celebrated fiction spy, James Bond) and the Serb Dušan Popov, a hardened womaniser whom Fleming is said to have based his 007 character on. The agents who lived in Cascais followed similar routines. They loved lodging at the elegant Hotel Palácio, having tea and delicious Portuguese pastries at the Pastelaria Garrett and burning the midnight oil in the famous Casino Estoril which witnessed more than one row between the secret agents that gathered there.
On the outskirts of Cascais is the natural vantage point of Boca do Inferno (Hell’s Mouth) and, twenty kilometres further north, Cabo da Roca (Cape Rock), the westernmost tip of continental Europe. This privileged spot, “where the land ends and the sea begins”, as the poet Luís de Camões would have it, affords stunning views of the sunset, reminding onlookers that Cascais is the perfect choice for a relaxing getaway.
Book your Vueling to Lisbon and head for Cascais, where you are sure to succumb to its charm.
Text by Tus Destinos
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La Confluence Lyons Cutting Edge
Those roving travellers who, on a visit to the capital of the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region, are unsated by delving into its past in the streets of Vieux Lyon, rambling through the bohemian district of La Croix-Rousse – which once hosted the silk workshops that earned the city fame and identity – or visiting the Institut Lumière, where the seventh art took its first tentative steps, and would instead like to discover the Lyon of the future, should make a point of heading for the Lyon Confluence.
At the tip of the peninsula where the Rhône and Saône rivers meet on their passage through Lyon lies the city’s most avant-garde district, the site of state-of-the-art architectural structures designed by a host of national and international architectural studios.
In its beginnings, the Confluence was an industrial precinct with numerous warehouses which gradually fell derelict. Over the last few years, this neighbourhood has been redeveloped, becoming what is now the apple of Lyon’s eye. This has been achieved by implementing a large-scale urban renewal project which has become a new focus of interest for both the Lyonese and tourists alike. Guided by the precepts of sustainability and creativity, the project features some highly interesting constructions and the district has taken on a markedly new lease of life, attracting businesses, restaurants and the odd hotel, and the project still has a long way to go.
Le Cube Orange is one of the icons of the district and one of the first surprises to hit newcomers to the area. The work of French architects Jakob + Macfarlane Architects, this huge building has a giant, cone-shaped hole gouged out of it, its function being both aesthetic and to provide light and ventilation. Another landmark and sequel to the Cube Orange, as it is designed by the same architects, is the Euronews HQ, although here one’s attention is struck by its loud green colour and this time the building’s rectangular facade is pierced by two holes. Another construction which made an impression on us during our stroll through La Confluence was Dark Point, the work of French architect Odile Decq, where the structure seemingly reaches out to embrace the river.
La Sucriére acts as a counterpoint to the aforementioned shot of cutting-edge architecture. Once a factory warehouse for storing sugar, it has now been refurbished and converted into an exhibition space for mainly art and creative works in general.
The itinerary culminates in the Musée des Confluences, unveiled in December 2014 and housed in a building characterised by the deconstructivist architectural style of the Austrian Coop Himmelb(l)au. Shaped to resemble a cloud, the museum is dedicated to natural history and societies. The permanent collection comes from the Museum of Lyon and features exhibits ranging from ethnographic artefacts to natural science objects.
And, if all that hasn’t quite quenched your sightseeing thirst, you can always go on a heady shopping spree in the district’s emblematic shopping complex – the largest in Lyon – namely the Pôle de Commerces et Loisirs Confluence which, apart from countless stores, is also the site of numerous restaurants, cinemas, gyms, etc.
Now that you know about Lyon’s most avant-garde neighbourhood, book your Vueling here and discover it for yourself.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Jean-Pierre Dalbéra, Anthony V.
more infoSanta Catalina el barrio trendy de Palma
Santa Catalina is now Palma’s fashionable quarter. Located just outside the erstwhile walled city west of Palma, in recent years it has undergone a facelift, turning it into a more spacious, more integral, must-visit district of the city.
Owing to its proximity to the harbour, it was originally a fishing quarter. In the 18th century some industrial activity emerged in the area, as evinced by the iconic Es Jonquet windmills and the aptly named Calle Industria. However, it reached the peak of its industrial expansion and development in the late-19th and early-20th century. Dating precisely from that period are the Modernist-style houses spread across the district, some of which were built by the Indianos on their return from Cuba.
Santa Catalina is a district of one- or two-storey houses, with balconies and Majorcan blinds, and small interior gardens or patios. A stroll through its quiet streets attests to an unusual mix of people, including a good number of foreigners that have succumbed to this quaint old fishermen’s quarter and have decided to settle there.
The hub of the area is the Santa Catalina Market, a veritable neighbourhood meeting point. Housed in a building dating from 1920, it preserves much of its original charm and is the ideal place for shopping for fresh, seasonal produce, most of which is sourced locally.
One of the claims to fame of Santa Catalina is the large number of restaurants that have opened there in the last few years, making it the perfect spot for ending a day’s sightseeing through Palma with a rewarding culinary experience. Among the standout venues we find:
Cantina Patrón Lunares. Located on the premises of the mutual benefit society, Montepío del Arrabal, it features highly poetic interior design in which the maritime and industrial past merges to perfection with vintage furniture and craft objects. The restaurant offers traditional island cuisine enhanced with seafood dishes from further afield.
Restaurante Duke. Here, the menu faithfully reflects the taste of the owners, who are great travellers, as it is characterised by dishes from all over the planet. The small interior is decorated with surfing motifs and photos of their journeys and is the perfect spot for eating wholesome food based on original recipes in a peaceful setting. We recommend ending off the meal with a mojito, which are mouth-watering.
Restaurante Hanaita. Despite the plain, rather dowdy decor of this small venue, it is undoubtedly one of the best Japanese restaurants in Palma, featuring excellent quality dishes.
Restaurante Xoriguer. Located on the Calle Fábrica, this is one of Palma’s classics. It also features some excellent, traditional Basque cuisine, and a wide variety of splendid meat dishes, including the best Kobe and Black Angus beef.
Gin Burger. As its name suggests, this cosy, modern locale offers delicious hamburgers which you can wash down with a magnificent gin tonic – they carry a large variety of gins. The venue is suitable for all guests, including vegetarians and celiacs, who have also been catered for on the menu.
Apart from its culinary offerings, Santa Catalina has also become a hub of the city’s artistic activity, which is centred around the Teatro Mar i Terra.
Now that you’re genned up about Palma’s trendiest district, all that’s left is for you to book your Vueling and enjoy it.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Fabian Walden, Cantina Patrón Lunares, Fernando Vesga
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Across the romantic Porto
Gateway to the Atlantic and trade with Africa, Porto has a special beauty that you perceive walking the streets. Despite their current romantic decay, the early-century modernist buildings that rise on the sides will take you to better times when the city had its maximum commercial splendor.
Enjoy the terraces and restaurants of lively Ribeira
The historic center of Porto is also one of the most beautiful and colorful areas, a labyrinth of narrow medieval streets and alleys.
The Ribeira Square is in front of the Chapel of Our Lady of Ô, surrounded by bustling cafes. Come to eat to the traditional restaurants in Rua da Fonte Tauria. here you can take the Funicular Guindais aka Dos Guindais, or go up to the highest part of town in the district of Batalha.
The most emblematic of the six bridges of Porto is the Luís I, which crosses the city and Gaia, where the cellars of the famous port wine are. It was designed by a disciple of Eiffel, Belgian engineer Teofilo Seyrig, so the two metal structures are works very similar in style
It can be crossed to visit Gaia, a town full of wine cellars the boardwalks of its two floors. On the top floor passes the subway line and on the lower one, passes cars and other vehicles.
Porto Wine Cellars
Crossing the bridge, you get to Gaia. Here is where port wine gets older, right next to the city, and you will find most wineries that are producing it. But do not stay only with the idea of their wine; Porto is very interesting to try sardines, fresh saloios cheeses or Cabreiro and some of their delicious desserts.
Another interesting option is to cross the Douro River on typical Rabelo boats, formerly transporting Porto wine. You will be fascinated by the magnificent views.
Livraria Lello. One of the most beautiful in Europe
It is no wonder that it chose to this library to film some scenes from the Harry Potter saga. It breathes a magical atmosphere. Its art deco details and neogothic style, the access ladder to the top floor, the large stained glass windows of the roof or the wooden bridge that crosses it, make this place more than a simple library to buy books.
The Livraria Lello e Irmao, called Livraria Lello to simplify, located in the Centre of the city in a beautiful building of neo-Gothic style, it is considered one of the most beautiful in Europe and is, with the bookstore Bertrand in Lisbon, one of the oldest in Portugal. Located in the Centre of the city, in a beautiful neo-Gothic style building.
Maus Hábitos
Maus Hábitos or bad habits is not a conventional place. Since 2001, year when Porto was European Capital of Culture, this mix of restaurant, bar and art gallery gives adequate room for the expression of all kinds of artists and organises workshops. Additionally, you can enjoy a mix of traditional and modern Portuguese cuisine overlooking the old town or you can relax in its gorgeous courtyard garden.
Image: Małgorzata Kaczor
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