Dreams of Lava & Ice in the Icelandic Highlands
Iceland is prolific in place-names which are difficult to pronounce, recall and, of course, spell. Landmannalaugar is one of these but, once you have travelled to this oasis nestling in multi-coloured mountains, where spouting thermal springs, sulphurous vapours and fumaroles melt the ice, this musical, fifteen-letter name becomes a simple word you will never forget. On the contrary – each time you utter it, hear it or read it, you will be transported to that natural paradise which has irremediably become part of your very existence.
Landscapes From Another Planet
Here, in this remote spot, which can only be reached in a 4x4 vehicle – in summer, several 4x4 buses ply the route daily from Hella – begins one of the most popular and spectacular hiking trails in the country and, indeed, on the planet.
Officially, it is known as Laugavegur, which translates roughly to “thermal waters route”. It is usually negotiated from north to south for a distance of 56 km as far as Þórsmörk. The hike then continues another 26 km from there to Skógar along a trail known as Fimmvörðuháls. Along this route, which takes from 4 to 6 days, endless scenic surprises await the traveller, from rhyolite mountains with indescribable colours to fields of fumaroles, glaciers and waterfalls, and deserts of lava and active volcanoes.
Accessible Stages
Laugavegur is the most popular stretch of the trail and is divided into four accessible stages of from 12 to 15 km, with stopovers at Hrafntinnusker, Álftavatn, Emstrur and Þórsmörk. Experienced walkers can complete two stages in one go as there are few slopes and the daylight hours are particularly long in the northern summer. Þórsmörk has a station for 4x4 buses so you can take one back to Hella.
Continuing along the Fimmvörðuháls trail from the Þórsmörk valley, the slope becomes steeper and some areas are more exposed and windswept. This stretch can be divided into two spectacular stages with a stopover at the Fimmvörðuháls shelter. This stage is probably one of the most amazing ones in trekking. It takes you past the Mýrdallsjokull and Eyjafjallajokull glaciers, and across a lava field that emerged during the famous 2010 eruption – which grounded so many flights – culminating in a long descent on which you can admire a total of 24 spectacular waterfalls, with the legendary Skógafoss as the final flourish.
Practical Guide
Dates: Open from June to September.
Difficulty: In good weather, the route is easy as far as Þórsmörk, and moderate up to Skógar.
Weather: Weather conditions in the Icelandic Highlands can change drastically in a few hours, even in summer. You should keep checking the weather report at shelters and abide by warnings issued by rangers and the shelter managers.
Navigation: The route is signposted in early summer with yellow stakes placed every few metres. In the event of being overtaken by fog or bad weather, it is useful to have GPS with route tracking. However, bear in mind that the route can vary slightly from year to year, particularly at river crossings.
Gear: Essential to have mountain footwear and warm clothing.
Food: There are no restaurants or grocery stores anywhere along the trail, and they do not serve food in the emergency shelters. However, you can pay for camping or an overnight with a credit card. Thus, you have to be self-sufficient and stock up with all the food you are going to need during the hike (reckon on a minimum of 1 kg per person per day).
A Roof Over Your Head: You need to book in advance to sleep at the shelters along the route. For certain summer dates, this requires booking several months ahead and the trekking agencies usually hog most of the available places.
Camping: There are camping areas around the shelters and they are always pay sites. You don’t need to book ahead, however. Some have showers and rubbish collection. Others only have drinking water and toilets. It is advisable to take a light tent that can withstand strong winds.
Rivers: Avoid crossing rivers at their narrowest point, as that is where they are deepest. You should wear tightly-fitting waterproof sandals to prevent them being ripped off by the current.
Guided Treks: If you prefer to travel light – without having to carry food or camping equipment – want to ensure a reservation in the shelters along the way and enjoy the company of a guide, the specialised agency Tierras Polares covers the whole route in July and August in the course of an 8-day trip, of which six days are spent trekking. Prices from €1,595.
Day Tour All Year Around: You can also visit Landmannalaugar on a Super Jeep Tour. The super jeep is a 4x4 vehicle with oversize tyres which can take you into the Highlands any time of the year, and pick-up is at your hotel in Reykjavik. Price per person: ISK 35,000 (€250).
Venture into the wonderland of the Icelandic Highlands – book your Vueling to Reykjavik here.
Text and photos by Sergio Fernández Tolosa & Amelia Herrero Becker (Con un par de ruedas)
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Delicious Kos
The most touristic of the Greek Dodecanese Islands is the beautiful Kos, with about 48 kilometers long and eight wide, which is very close to the coast of Turkey. It is normal then that their simple and tasty cuisine is influenced by their neighboring country.
One of the most popular choices is to ask for mezze or meze (very common in the Middle East and in this part of the Mediterranean), a varied selection of dishes that are accompanied with ouzo (or similar drinks like raki, tsipouro or tsikoudia), an alcoholic beverage made in Greece. It is usually prepared with all kinds of ingredients such as eggplant, tomatoes, chickpeas, cucumbers, fish, cheese, peppers, olives or seafood.
Although the mezes are accompanied with ouzo, it doesn’t mean that you have to take them without measure. You are supposed to eat and drink slowly, enjoying the company and the lively conversation.
Try for instance the Gavros Marinatos (anchovies marinated in oil, lemon and salt), the grilled octopus or the Kalamarakia (fried squid), the saganaki (Kefalotyri cheese fried in olive oil), the tirokafteri (made from a softer cheese like feta mixed with yogurt, olive oil and lemon) or the keftedes (fried meatballs seasoned with mint and onion).
Other typical recipes of the island are the noodles in broth called "pitaridia" the "dolmades” (grape leaves stuffed with rice), the "pastitsio" (pasta with vegetables), the "katimeria"(pancakes with mizithra cheese served with honey and cinnamon), and the "lampropites' (pies filled with a cheese called prosfa). There are plenty of different restaurants on the island, from typically Greek food with traditional flavors to international restaurants, bars and nightclubs, with guaranteed fun until the wee hours of the morning.
Nick de Fisherman
Georgiou Averof 21
One of the most popular places to eat fish and only fish, mostly because you will not find meat dishes in this restaurant run by a fisherman and his family since 1942.
Barbouni
Georgioy Averof 26
www.ilovebarbouni.com
Fresh seafood dishes, assorted meze, fish coming directly from the sea and some of their wonderful cocktails to finish.
Agkyra
Averof 14, Kos
Family business with views of Kos’s Harbour.
Dihtaki
Georgiou Averof 30
Seafood and some vegetarian options in this delightful place with a terrace facing the sea.
El Gallo
Georgiou Averof 12
Great Greek and Spanish tapas facing the sea in the city of Kos.
Psarovarka
Antimahoy 1 Kos
Although it was opened recently,this restaurant has earned a reputation as one of the best on the island. Home-made dishes cooked with local products, seafood mezes, salads and high quality fish. They have hammocks on the beach where they serve drinks.
Taverna Mike
Eth. P. Polemiston, Lambi
www.mike-kos.eu
Let yourself be advised by Mike and Gina on the best food and wine of the place. A spacious and welcoming restaurant to taste the specialties of the island.
La Prima
Plaza Diagoras, Kos
www.laprima-kos.com
Pasta, some vegetarian choices and the best saganaki mussels (Greek recipe for mussels with onions, tomatoes and feta cheese).
Picture mezze por Banu
A place well worth discovering!Check out our flights here.
more infoIrresistible Turin
Turin is Piedmont Capital town, and the first historical capital of Italian unified nation, in 1861. The city is surrounded by green charming hills, fascinating all types of tourist.
Easy to be reached, positioned into the heart of Europe, Turin is the perfect short break destination, as well as an unmissable stop along a tour of Piedmont or Italy.
Museums for all tastes
Turin is a friendly and surprising town, with more than 40 museums, from ancient history to contemporary arts, from natural and environmental sciences to the “seventh art”, from car-history to culture of food.
“Mole Antonelliana” – the building, symbol of the town- with its 167m of height, hosts the Cinema Musuem. The Egyptian Museum, with its set-up by Oscar awarded scenographer Dante Ferretti, is second only to the Cairo one.
Lingotto former FIAT factory, hosts Pinacoteca Giovanni y Marella Agnelli, with its unvaluable Canaletto, Modigliani, Balla and Matisse masterpieces.
XIX Century and contemporary Art addicted, will certainly visit GAM – Modern and Contemporary art Gallery- and Rivoli Castle.
And last but not least, National Automobile Museum, with Françoise Confino set-up, and National Italian Risorgimento Museum
Royal Residences “Crown of Delights”
Savoy Court dinasty left the magnificent Royal Residences, UNESCO world heritage. Royal Palace and Madama Palace, flanking the majestic Piazza Castello, Valentino castle, built on Po riverside , and some other castles in the boundaries of the town, form the “Crown of Delights”. Among these, the Royal Palace of Venaria, structured achitecture complex, surrounded by La Mandria Park and its gardens, and Stupinigi hunting residence, are the most significant.
What to taste in Turín
A travelling in Turin is also a trip through food culture. Aperitivo is a must: a glass of wine or a cocktail, with some snacks, tastings and salads, in one of the trendy bars is a modern habit with an ancient origin. Vermouth has born in Turin in 1757 and Martini & Rossi still has its main base close to town.
Historical Cafès, with their vintage atmosphere, are beautiful places for tasting local delis: such as Bicerin- traditional Turin drink, made with coffee, chocolate, and cream – hot chocolate with cream, or the liquour flavoured Sabayòn, and the “Gianduiotti”( chocolate candy with hazelnuts).
Picture: Hpnx9420
Why not take a trip to Turín? Have a look at our flights here!
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Hipster route in Bilbao
There's no doubt that the hipster and hipster fashions are here to stay. While the "hip" subculture dates back to the 1940s, the movement is again on the rise and is clearly marking out its territory.
Bilbao’s fame as a cultural mecca has reached as far as China and beyond, but people may not realise the extent of the hipsterisation of this former industrial city in the Basque country on the northern Spanish coast, thanks to the transformations undertaken in recent decades and the quirky, youthful pulse of contemporary Bilbao. Even the football team, known by its English name of “Athletic Club de Bilbao”, or “Athletic” for short, fits the hipster mould thanks to its peculiar philosophy. And it’s the sole team in the Spanish league that fields only local players.
There are plenty of place for visitors to sleep. One of our choices would be Basque Boutique, a small hotel located in the heart of the Casco Viejo or old city centre. Guests are immediately immersed in the culture, since each of its eight rooms is dedicated to a particular aspect of Basque life or gastronomy: the Karola (a giant red industrial crane that still stands), Marijaia (the rotund figure of the legendary lady who presides over the city’s annual fiesta), or the baldosa de Bilbao (the city’s traditional geometrically patterned paving blocks). The hotel achieves a perfect fusion of tradition and the avant-garde, mixing vintage décor with such modem comforts and television, Wi-Fi, air-conditioning, and en suite bathrooms. It’s an unforgettable experience you sholn0’t miss.
Another spot that exudes charm is the little Pensión Caravan Cinema. Also in the city’s old quarter, it uniquely combines history, atmosphere, and comfort. Each of the five rooms is dedicated to a contemporary Spanish film director: Pedro Almodovar, Alejandro Amenábar, Alex de la Iglesia ,Julio Medem, and Fernando Trueba. Both comfortable and surprisingly economical. If you’re into Spanish movies, this is definitely for you.
Now that we’ve unpacked, it’s time to sample Bilbao’s famed mini food portions, known as tapas in the rest of Spain but pintxos in the food-obsessed Basque country. One place everyone should try is Brass, on Licenciado Pozas street. For breakfast, brunch, or an afternoon aperitif with a pintxo or three, this is where to go. Talented DJs also perform there after sundown, evenings, and you’ll probably want to stay all night. It’s the most hipster establishment of Bilbao, and the prices are quite reasonable.
On the same street is the la tabernilla de Pozas, an old-fashioned tavern that will take you back to the Bilbao of many decades ago. Instead of pintxos, what you’ll find on the high, wide bar are sandwiches made with tuna or anchovies (bocadillos de atún or anchoas), but you’re have to ask for them –there is no sign or indication.
Charlotte, in calle Heros, serves breakfasts, and then pintxos, as well as the most scrumptious pastries. It’s also famed for cocktails that some rank well above those concocted in New York. It’s American-style décor adds to its popularity amongst the local hipster community.
We mustn’t omit Mr Marvelous, on the same street , which is lined with interesting places. A variety of delicious croquettes, incredible loin of venison, poached eggs with truffle and mushroom sauce –you won’t be able to stop eating!
If you still have room after the pintxos, you may want a proper meal in one of Bilbao’s many excellent restaurants, such as la Camelia, for ecological sushi and the organically grown and exquisitely prepared vegetarian dishes. Who knew healthy food could taste this good?
Bascook,in Barroeta Aldamar street, belongs to the famed chef Aitor Elizegi, whose skills and inspiration have won him dozens of awards. Bascook combines traditions and innovation. The food is delicious and the atmosphere cosy. There a very affordable prix fixe luncheon menu.
For the gastronomically adventurous there is Kokken, where fine dining and fine art go hand in hand. The cuisine is Scandinavian and so is the décor –modern, functional, and very welcoming.
One further proposal is that you try Colombo, on Rodríguez Arias street. You won’t know how good croquettes, hummus or ceviche (marinated raw fish) can taste until you’ve tried them here. And the wait staff couldn’t be more attentive and charming!
When we’re able to rise from the table, we might think about hitting Bilbao’s astounding profusion of shops, Hitz for example, sells stationery supplies, gifts, and perfumes in a vintage atmosphere, set off by old steamer trunk, typewriters, and other antiques –totally hipster!
Another must is Flamingo Records, selling vinyl disks –including rare treasures and first editions– In every musical category and style. You won’t leave empty-handed.
The hipster clothing store par excellence is Arizona Vintage Clothing. It features 100% American style gear and accessories.
In the Bilbao La Vieja or Ibaiondo district you’ll find Vacas Flacas, the city’s most spectacular second-hand clothing shop, where goods of the highest quality can be purchased at bargain prices. But you must telephone an hour in advance for an appointment.
One of Bilbao’s most unusual establishments which no visitor should miss is La Casa de Atrás, with a huge selection of old books, many of them out of print for decades, as well as numerous vinyl records. There’s also an on-site tattoo parlour. Could you ask for anything more?.
One of our favourites is the famed furniture and decorations shop Almoneda Campos, on calle Bertendona. Its speciality is old-fashioned lamps and chandeliers, but there’s much, much more to see and fall in love with.
Time for a snack? How about one of city’s most hipster –and friendliest– bars,Residence, on calle Barraincúa, and very close to the Guggenheim museum. The best place in town for a tall gin and tonic or an exotic imported beer. Live music, too!
Another very special spot is La Catedral de la Cerveza, (“the beer cathedral”), a mecca for serious beer aficionados, on Carnicería Vieja street in the old quarter, featuring brews from Austria, Belgium, the Czech Republic, Denmark, England, France, Germany, Ireland, Italy, the Netherlands, Norway, Russia, Scotland, Sweden, and the Basque Country itself. You can even buy kits to make you own beer.
Let’s not forget bar Marzana, on the street of the same name, which has become a marvellous amalgam of the old and new. Don’t worry if there’s no table. You can sit on the street and enjoy the incredible river view.
A last drink, but where? How about La Karola? It is named for the famous crane that still towers above the site where Bilbao’s Euskalduna shipyards once stood, and which was named in its day for the young lady who used to cross the bridge over the river every day, and whose beauty transfixed the district's industrial workers and passers-by. The bar, opened 40 years ago, has enviable views of the river and food so delicious it will take you breath away.
But there are still more places to visit, such as the café-theatre La Ribera, in the lower part of the La Ribera (“the riverbank”) market. Great food and live music –chiefly jazz and indie. For atmosphere, there’s nothing like it in Bilbao.
If you happen to be visiting the city on the last Sunday of the month, you won’t want to miss The Sunday Market, inspired by such street markets as London’s Brick Lane or Spitalfields. The theme “A passion for pretty things” applies to everything you’ll see there, from decorative items and antiques to vintage clothing, cupcakes, handicrafts, gadgets, art, flowers, charming little shops, bars, and restaurants, live music, etc. Another street market, thel Dos de Mayo is set up on the first Saturday of the month, and is a great excuse to tour the neighbouring shops like Atakontu, Cultto, or Trakabarraka,and perhaps to sample a vermouth at one of the many local bars. If it’s a sunny day the atmosphere is amazing.
And here we end our hipster tour of Bilbao, first reminding you that there’s much more to this fascinating city that you’ll discover for yourself when you come. Now’s the time to book a ticket on vueling!
Photos: Fernando Sanz
Text: Tensi Sánchez de actitudesmgz.com