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The Best Tapas in A Coruña

The Concurso de Tapas Picadillo is one of the most acclaimed in northern Spain. In A Coruña, the whole city gets involved, with a good many culinary establishments presenting their best creations. In some areas of the city, participants have come together in the form of group entries. Following is a rundown of some of the bites that surprised us most. As there were over 70 participants, we have made a selection of those located near the historic city centre. Although the contest is over, bear in mind you can still savour the tapas until 31 December, and you can look up this year’s winners on the competition website.

The Ciudad Vieja, Monte Alto, Zalaeta and Plaza de España Area

The earliest settlement in A Coruña is what is now known as Ciudad Vieja (Old City), an area which features monuments prior to the 19th century. This is the perfect place to stroll around, in the hushed atmosphere of its cobbled backstreets. The best place to start the route is hard by the San Carlos Gardens, at an establishment called A Boca do Lobo, where you can try the two special tapas that entered the competition. The first, creative offering is Galician octopus at 100°, seaweed coulis and liquid croquette with a pork crust. The other is the traditional roast Celtic pork dewlap and potatoes in their gravy. On the edge of the Ciudad Vieja lies the Plaza de María Pita, a complex of striking harmony arranged around a statue of a local heroine who fought against English corsairs. The square is surrounded by buildings with porticoes where some of the city’s main bars and restaurants are located. These include Breen’s Tavern, where you can enjoy a scrumptious cod-and-prawn brandade. Next door is El Ángel Café Bar (Plaza María Pita, 25) whose “Celtic pouches” were a surprising entry in the competition, while El Tequeño made a bold move with their creative, melgacho tapa based on small-spotted catshark tail.

The Barrera, La Marina, Galera, Estrella and Olmos Area

This is the nerve centre of A Coruña’s tapas bars, an area also known as La Pescadería, where the largest number of establishments is concentrated. The Calle Franxa, which runs from the Plaza de María Pita, is studded with seafood restaurants, Cuban and Turkish eateries, and a whole gamut of traditional tascas, beer gardens, jamonerías and wine cellars. The stretch leading from Ciudad Vieja to Los Cantones is another area crammed with bars and restaurants. However, the highest concentration of these is found along Calle Barrera, which boasts no less than thirteen contestants in the tapas competition. Like A Casa da Moura(Barrera, 9), with their delicious ovo da moura, or Alma Negra (Barrera, 13), with their creative mackerel taco, as well as a more traditional dish known as mar y montaña de tendones y callos de bacalao (“sea and mountains of tendons and cod tripe”). For us, however, pride of place goes to the stunning tartar de zamburiñas y aguacate sobre cama de brotes tiernos y brotes de col morada (“tartar of variegated scallop and avocado on a bed of tender bean sprouts and red cabbage shoots”), to be had at Tapa Negra. Calle Galera, which leads into Calle Olmos, is flanked by some of A Coruña’s classic tapas bars which have been handed down from one generation to the next.

The Alameda, Plaza de Galicia, Plaza de Vigo and Juan Flórez Area

Another large collection of tapas bars is grouped around the two aforementioned squares. This is the heart of the Ensanche quarter, an important shopping and business precinct, with a good many stores and offices, but also taverns and restaurants. It is part of the Picasso District, an area running from Juana de Vega to Plaza de Mina, named after the Malagan artist who lived and studied for a few years in this part of A Coruña. The streets Juan Flórez, Linares Rivas and Ramón de la Sagra also fall within its zone of influence.

We strolled through the area stretching from Los Cantones to the Parque de Santa Margarita; then along Juan Florez up to Avenida de Rubine, which leads to the Riazor football stadium. To start with, at Casa Martín, near the Plaza de Pontevedra, you should try the empanada de xoubas y grelos (pilchard and turnip top pie). Just one street away is El Huerto Los Cantones (Cantón Pequeño, 22) where, if you’re still feeling peckish – or you have just started out on the route – you will be well satisfied with the miniburguer de pez espada, tomate semiseco, espinaca fresca y salsa de almejas en pan de cereales (swordfish mini burger, semi-dried tomatoes, fresh spinach and clam sauce on wholemeal bread). Any better offer?

Don’t miss the chance to sink your teeth into the best, traditional-style, creative tapas currently to be had in A Coruña. Check out our flights here.

 

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by Turismo A Coruña, Concurso de Tapas Picadillo

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5 Beaches to Enjoy in Olbia

The seaboard of Olbia, unfamiliar to many, stretches for several hundred kilometres via an endless string of stunning beaches and cliffs. It includes a protected marine area dominated by the 500m high Tavolara massif. But Olbia stands out primarily for its beaches. Those of Pittulongu, Bados, Marinella, Lo Squalo and Mare Rocce, characterised by their fine white sand and crystal-clear water, lie on one side, with Salinas, Costa Romantica, Poltu Casu and Porto Istana located further south.

There is also Porto Rotondo,one of the resorts coveted by upmarket tourists. As for Olbia, beyond its industrial belt lies an attractive town with a historic centre spangled with boutiques, wine bars and squares lined with cafés. But, above all, Olbia is a genuine, economical alternative to the artificial tourist centres of the north and south. Turquoise, emerald, sky blue and sea blue are the colours of the waters bathing the coastline, with countless varieties of fish, shellfish and mussels eagerly sought after by underwater explorers and sports fishermen. There is also an immense variety of brightly coloured marine flora forming a virtually unspoiled natural swathe.

The Five Most Caribbean Beaches in the Mediterranean

White sandy beaches are prevalent in Olbia, but the seaboard also presents stretches of eroded rock, ranging from peaks to cliffs plummeting spectacularly to the sea, making this coastline a veritable paradise on earth. Here are five of the finest beaches:

Pittulongu

Also known locally as “La Playa”, this is undoubtedly the favourite seaside resort among the Olbiesi. Here the sand is fine-grained, very white and rich in tiny shells. It is shaped like a crescent moon and is fully serviced. Typical beach stalls rub shoulders with far more sophisticated bars. It is very well connected to the city by public transport, which plies the 5 km ride along the provincial road no. 82. Nearby are hotels, restaurants, pizzerias and a few small markets. The beach offers courses in diving, windsurfing, sailing and canoeing. In short, a genuine coastal leisure paradise.

Porto Istana

Porto Istana is actually the amalgam of four beaches separated by small rocky outcrops. The beach is made up of fine white sand and slopes gently towards the emerald-coloured water, to the obvious delight of budding Instagrammers. The water is shallow and thus ideal for children. Located opposite the protected marine area of Tavolara, it attracts surfers and enthusiasts of underwater sports. A large variety of services are available, including equipment and boat hire. Nearby hotels and tourist apartments are plentiful. It is well connected and has a free parking lot.

Marinella

Located in the gulf of the same name, it lies just four kilometres from the famed Porto Rotondo. Here the sand is also white and fine-grained. We recommend heading for the playa as it is not as crowded as the other beaches. The water here is shallow and therefore suitable for children and there are amenities for playing with them on the beach. To get here from Olbia, head north towards Palau for about 7 kilometres, as far as the access to provincial road no. 73 in the direction of the Emerald Coast. Continue towards Porto Rotondo and turn right at the first intersection; four kilometres further on, take the detour towards the Gulf of Marinella.

Bados

Situated at the municipal limits of Golfo Aranci, it is reached by taking the SP82, after which you turn right near the main-road sign and continue another 500 metres. The beach is extremely wide, with very fine-grained, grey-ochre-coloured sand. It is also one of the most popular so it is worth getting there early in the day to find a good place. The resort also features a number of spas with offers for all budgets. The shallow seabed makes this ideal for children bathing and paddling. There are several markets in the area.

Mare Rocce

The Mare Rocce beach is another of those treats you should indulge in during your stay in Olbia. It boasts fine, greyish sand and crystal-clear water. The beach is well connected by road and by reliable public transport. Take the SP82 for about 7 kilometres, turn right and continue along the road for another 1 kilometre. If you’re arriving by car, there is also a free parking area.

All you need now is to grab your tanning lotion! Check out our flights here.

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by City of Olbia, Ross Huggett, Michele Testini, damn_unique

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The Ria de Muros e Noia , the Port of Santiago de Compostela

The Ria de Muros e Noia is one of the Galicia region’s least built-up coastal areas, and also one of the most beautiful. Fishing boats landing delicious, shellfish, white sandy beaches with good surfing, all framed by green hills with a riot of vegetation –it’s definitely worth a visit. Here is a route you might consider.

Mt. Louro and the Xarfas Lagoon
Starting from the northern extreme of the estuary, between the Costa da Morte and Muros, you can stand atop Louro mountain, a 241-metre high granite block, and feast on the views of the Ria de Muros e Noia and the Lagoa de Xarfas with its fabulous Area Maior beach. The surrounding –hills, dunes, beach and the lagoon—boast a wealth of flora and fauna. There’s even an observatory for watching migratory birds.

Muros
Heading south we come to the town of Muros, founded in the 10th C. , and now featuring modest fishermen’s houses next to lordly mansions from bygone times. A stroll the town in the late afternoon can be timed to coincide with the arrival of the boats in the evening after a day’s fishing. The fish is put up for sale immediately on the dock, which is also an interesting spectacle to watch. And it means your shellfish dinner will be fresh and delicious. You won’t be disappointed by any of the restaurants under the arches near the water’s edge.

Just three kilometres away on the road to Noia is the Muíño de Mareas do Pozo do Cachón, a flour mill powered by the tides, built in the last quarter of the 19th C. There is also an interesting museum.

Noia
Noia is the biggest town in the estuary, and is only 36 km distant from Santiago. According to tradition, it was named for Noah, who is believed to have settled there after the Biblical flood. The city’s coat of arms shows an ark and a dove bearing an olive branch.

The old quarter features two churches built in the local version of the Gothic style: San Martiño (15th-16th C.) and Santa María a Nova (14th C.), the latter with a fascinating collection of about 500 tombstones. The 16th C. convent of San Francisco may also be visited, and the town is replete with stately mansions, such as the Casa da Xouba, the Pazo Dacosta (or Casa de Rivas), and the Pazo Forno do Rato. In the Obre district the pazos (mansions) of Pena de Ouro and Bergondo are worth a visit.

Some five kilometres from de Noia, across the Tambre, we come to the Ponte Nafonso, a bridge built during the 12th C. reign of King Alfonso IX of Leon and Galicia. It consists of a score of pointed arches lying on granite ashlars. The setting against the sea and mountains makes the sight of the bridge all the more spectacular

Castro de Baroña
On the south side of the estuary, next to the fishing village of Porto do Son, is the Castro de Baroña, an Iron Age Celtic settlement, with a score of round or oval stone cottages, once thatched, on a small peninsula. The archaeological remains and the wonderful landscape make it a worthwhile visit.

Corrubedo Dunes Nature Park
Between the Ria de Muros and Noia and that of Arousa, to the south, lies this lovely park with beaches, dunes, fresh- and salt-water lagoons, wetlands, and even megalithic remains. One of the main attractions is the “moving dune”, a restless pile of sand about a kilometre long , 200-300 meters wide, and 20 metres tall.

Some Further Recommendations
Though the quickest way to explore the Muros and Noia estuary is by the AC-550 coast road, we recommend side trips into the surrounding hills to get the best views.

For lodging there are numerous country inns and guest houses on both sides of the water, most of them in old and typical buildings. A particularly unusual place to stay is the hotel Pesquería del Tambre, in the Tambre river valley on the site of and old hydroelectric dam transformed into a nature hotel by the architect Antonio Palacios.

Check out our flights to Santiago de Compostela and head west to the sea!

Text: Isabel y Luis Comunicación

Pictures: Turismo de Galicia

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Wieliczka – Journey to the Bowels of the Earth

Have you ever wondered where such a common condiment as salt comes from? A visit to the Wieliczka Salt Mine could be the perfect opportunity to learn how this coveted commodity is mined. You would also discover a stunning underground precinct. Located in the Kraków metropolitan area, some 15 kilometres from the city, the mine has been in continuous operation since the 13th century and up until our times. This is the second oldest salt mine in the world, after the Bochnia Mine, also in Poland. In 1978 it was listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO – yet one more pretext to visit it.

But, what makes the Wieliczka Mine so special? To start with, you have to banish any preconceived ideas of darkness and claustrophobia usually associated with the word “mine”. After descending the long, initial access staircase leading down into the depths, comprising around 350 steps, you come face to face with a statue sculpted by Nicolaus Copernicus which greets visitors on the first level. But, this is not the only salt statue you will see on your visit – there is a wealth of these artefacts, carved by the miners themselves. Themes range from historical figures to work scenes in the mine and even religious subjects. To be sure, there’s even a salt relief reproduction of Leonardo da Vinci’s “The Last Supper”. I bet you’re surprised!

But, that’s not all. The realm’s jewel in the crown is the Chapel of Saint Kinga, a huge cavity measuring 54 metres deep, by 17m wide and 11m high, all carved in the rock, ornamented with lanterns which – naturally – are also made of rock salt. It is the largest underground church in the world and is well worth visiting, even if just for its sheer size. The work attests to the miners’ devotion to Saint Kinga, who legend has it brought salt to Poland.

The tour ends at a depth of 135 metres, after taking you past some brine lakes, where a sound-and-light performance is laid on to a theme by Chopin. This may sound a bit kitsch, but it is quite something to hear it in a cavern of this kind! Ah! And, don’t worry – the ascent to the surface is made in a lift.

Experiences in the Underground

The Wieliczka mine has been perfectly adapted for sightseers and several options are open to visitors: the “tourist route” is the conventional option, but you can go beyond that if you’re eager to have a more intense experience, in which case you choose the “miner’s route”.This involves experiencing the tour like a miner and learning all the ins-and-outs of salt-mining processes. There is also a “pilgrim’s route” for the more religious-minded, which focuses on the spiritual parts of the mine, notably the Chapels of St Kinga and St John Paul II.

The mine has a healthy microclimate, featuring pollution-free areas where calm prevails. Moreover, the dry atmosphere generated by the salt, and the constant temperature, help to create the perfect environment for those suffering from respiratory ailments. The amenities also include a spa station offering a number of different treatments. And, for those of you who have time on your hand and avidly seek out strong emotions, the complex includes accommodation for the night, set at two levels – 125 metres down, and another at 135 metres. Do you dare?

Preparing Your Visit

Here are a few pointers to consider before visiting the mine:

- There is a bus service from Kraków every 20 minutes.
- You don’t need to book beforehand. All visits are guided, and guides are available in a large number of languages. Here are the timetables.
- The average duration of a guided tour is about three hours.
- The temperature inside the mine is from 14 to 16 degrees, so remember to bring a jacket or some warm clothing if you don’t want to get cold.
- There are a lot of steps to go down – around 800 in all – so make sure you put on comfortable footwear.
- Be careful! If you want to make your friends jealous of the great photos you take, bear in mind you need to pay an extra fee for photographing or filming in the mine.

Don’t pass up the chance to visit this spectacular complex – check out our flights here.

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Photos by Taver, Jennifer Boyer, Alexander Baxevanis and Wieliczka Salt Mine(photos by R. Stachurski)

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