Berlin in 9 Albums
From David Bowie or Iggy Pop, to U2 or R.E.M, Berlin has long been a source of inspiration for the most famed ambassadors of pop and rock (their impact on club culture deserves a separate article). With the iconic Hansa Tonstudio recording studios as the hub of experimentation and creation, the German capital stands out as the inextricable backdrop for beacons of musical genesis over the last few decades.
“Heroes” (David Bowie, 1977)
David Bowie took refuge in Berlin in search of inspiration in the late seventies. His German sojourn ended up spawning the Berlin Trilogy,a triptych of albums that began with Low (1977) and ended with Lodger (1978), although epitomised by the second album, Heroes.Recorded in the legendary Hansa Tonstudio (or Hansa Studio by the Wall), the title track recounts the story of two lovers who hide their idyll in the shadows of the Berlin Wall.
“Lust For Life” (Iggy Pop, 1977)
Following in the footsteps of his friend, David Bowie, Iggy Pop headed for Berlin to develop his career as a solo artist. The first chapter in that new venture was The Idiot (1977). A bigger hit still was Lust for Life, released that same year. With the Hansa Studio by the Wall again becoming his centre of operations, Iggy Pop took just eight days to breathe life into such essential titles in his repertory as Lust for Life, The Passenger and Tonight.
“Kollaps” (Einstürzende Neubauten, 1981)
Few albums has captured so well the essence of Berlin in the early eighties as Kollaps, Einstürzende Neubauten’s debut. A landmark industrial and experimental band, the calling card of this group led by Blixa Bargeld was a collection of pieces which even today, three decades on, still resound as searing, psychotic and oppressive – an exquisite torture on the ears.
“Night Time” (Killing Joke, 1985)
The quasi-metal, industrial band, Killing Joke, achieved one of their major hits with Night Time, a work suggestive of an interlude between their strident beginnings and the calmer stretches they would subsequently experiment with, albeit fruitlessly. And, while you’re at it – listen to Eighties, the last track on the album, and then do the same with Come as You Are, by Nirvana. Influence, coincidence or plagiarism?
“Black Celebration” (Depeche Mode, 1986)
Depeche Mode went to Berlin to record their fifth studio album, with Martin Gore then consolidating as the band’s creative engine. As the title suggests,Black Celebrationstresses the darkening sound passages that the Britons had been flirting with in their previous works, Construction Time Again (1983) and Some Great Reward (1984). Definitely one of the most influential records of the eighties.
“Your Funeral… My Trial” (Nick Cave And The Bad Seeds, 1986)
Nick Cave has stated on more than one occasion that Your Funeral… My Trial is the best album in their career. Indeed, his long fourth track harbours some of the most hair-raising cuts by the Australian, like its counterpart, Your Funeral, My Trial, Stranger Than Kindness or The Carny which Cave and The Bad Seeds would play a year later in the Wim Wenders film, Wings of Desire.
“Bossanova” (Pixies, 1990)
Engendered in Berlin, this third album of the Pixies is undoubtedly one of the great works of independent rock. The hideout of simply irresistible tracks like Velouria, Dig for Fire or Allison, their customary dedication to sure-fire tunes entangled with distorted guitar rasps,Bossanovareveals borrowings from surf and space rock. While not a conceptual work, many of the themes bear references to aliens, UFOs and the remaining extraterrestrial paraphernalia that so obsessed its leader, Black Francis.
“Achtung Baby” (U2, 1991)
Having scoured the roots of American music with Rattle and Hum (1988), U2’s next release marked a radical departure in sound. Having moved to Berlin to allow the winds of change blowing across the city to rub off on them, the Irishmen caught the world unawares with a work grounded in the essences of the burgeoning genres, including independent rock and electronic music. Achtung Baby is one of those definitive records in the history of rock.
“Collapse Into Now” (R.E.M., 2011)
R.E.M. was one of the most popular bands in the last few decades, with the added advantage that they managed to keep their integrity and artistic credibility intact. They split up in September 2011, a few months before the release of their last album, Collapse Into Now. Recorded in the Hansa Tonstudio, this is a standout farewell bordering on the sublime, as in Discover, Mine Smell Like Honey and Überlin.
Berlin Musictours offers an extensive, more than interesting gamut of tours to the hotspots of Berlin’s ever effervescent musical activity. Among the various itineraries to choose from, notable routes include the Bowie Berlin Tour, U2 Berlin Tour, Depeche Mode Berlin Tour and Hansa Studio Tour. Why wait to discover an à la carte musical Berlin? Check our flights here.
Text by Oriol Rodríguez for ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
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The island of Gran Canaria offers all the rural leisure amenities you can imagine and more, including adventure sports and trekking.
From Sea to Sky
One breathtaking route stretches from the Gran Canaria coast to the top of the island’s highest peak, a secluded spot which is the closest you’ll ever get to a lunar landscape. In the municipality of Tejeda, some 44 km from Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, you can easily find yourself trapped by a sea of clouds. Tejeda can be reached mainly by the Centro GC 15 main road, a somewhat winding route flanked by stunningly beautiful scenery which takes you through the towns of Santa Brígida and Vega de San Mateo. The most exciting part of the journey starts here, as you begin to climb so steeply that the clouds recede below you. The 44-km drive takes about an hour. It can also be reached by public transport from the Guaguas station in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.
El Roque Bentayga and the Archaeology Park
Tejeda is a must-see if you come to Gran Canaria and more so if you’re interested in archaeology. Here you can find vestiges of burial caves, rock carvings, paintings and dwellings. The Roque Bentayga provides an excellent sampling of all this. This unique, natural rock precinct was sacred to the original inhabitants, as it was here that they prayed to their gods. The Parque Arqueológico del Bentayga is an ecomuseum built next to the Roque. It also serves as a venue for performances, both for the archaeological rock complex (Bentayga, Andén de Tabacalete, Cuevas del Rey and the Roquete) and its surroundings. It also affords wonderful views of the southern and western reaches of the island.
Culture and Mysticism
The symbol of Gran Canaria is also to be found at Tejeda. This is the Roque Nublo, a huge basalt rock in the form of a monolith stretching 70 metres into the air. On its north-eastern side stands another monolithic rock known as El Fraile (the Friar), as it physically resembles a monk. While you’re here, take the chance to roam through the Inagua and Ojeda pine forests and, further north, that of los Pechos, for here you are bound to fall in love with the views.
Art and culture also make their presence felt in Tejeda. Here you can visit the Abraham Cárdenes Sculpture Museum, dedicated to this Canary Island sculptor, who hailed from here, and also the Ethnographic Museum, where you go on a journey of the town’s and the island’s history. Here, too, the Degollada de Becerra is another spot well worth visiting. It is situated on the main road between La Cruz de Tejeda and los Llanos de la Pez, and features a viewpoint affording spectacular scenery and, more importantly, a centre where you can learn about local ethnography. Lastly, the town boasts a Centro de Plantas Medicinales, where you are invited to discover the varieties of plants, herbs and flowers indigenous to Tejeda and the island and their varied use in medicine, religion and cosmetics.
Gastronomy
Establishments in Tejeda centre offer all types of craftwork and you can also find the typical sweets made here. You are also advised to stop at one of the bar terraces and restaurants located on the side of the Parador Nacional, a magnificent vantage point providing spectacular views of the whole island.
Almonds play a major role in the cuisine of Tejeda, a town which has become one of the landmarks of Canary Island confectionery, noteworthy among which are the bienmesabes and marzipans. Both sweets are made using ground almond, the former also being one of the traditional accompaniments of local iced desserts. In Tejeda you can also sample any of the Canary Islands’ traditional dishes, the mainstay of which are beef and goat’s meat. Make sure to try such dishes as the caldos de papas (potato soup) and the potajes de berros y jaramagos (watercress and hedge mustard stews). If you’d like to sample good local cooking, a restaurant you should not miss is the Cueva de la Tea, where you can order a potaje de berros and their speciality, ropa vieja– chick peas, potato, hog’s head, chicken, tomatoes, peppers and onion. The average price per head is 12 euros and the helpings are generous. It also has the advantage of affording spectacular views.
What’s holding you back? Check out our flights here.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images byPatronato de Turismo de Gran Canaria
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The Esmorçaret Route in Valencia
Any traveller stopping over at the city on the river Túria has their sightseeing venues cut out for them – The City of Arts and Sciences, The Cathedral, El Miguelete, The Silk Exchange, The Central Market, Torres de Serrano, Torres de Quart, The Port, The Bioparc – if you have kids in tow – and, of course, The Albufera. Needless to say, all this should be accompanied by a good paella for lunch, and an horchata for afternoon tea.
But, Valencia is a lot more than this. Indeed, locals delight in a practice which is almost a religion – what is known here as the esmorçaret, a mid-morning sandwich with freshly baked bread, accompanied by a dish of olives or nuts, a beer and coffee… all for less than five euros.
Here is a our recommendation of 8 must-visit bars where you will gradually become adepts of that healthy practice which is usually indulged in between ten and twelve o’clock in the morning.
For Omelette Lovers
Bar Alhambra. Every day Benito, the owner of this small bar in the Juan Llorens area, prepares an average of six, two-and-a-half-kilo omelettes. The main kind is the potato omelette, but you can also choose between potato and onion, as well as potato and spring garlic, potato and sobrasada, (a spicy, pork sausage) and potato and morcilla (blood sausage),among others. Another of their finger-licking specialities is the apaleao (dry-cured pork loin).
Bar Rojas Clemente. Hidden in one of the city’s smallest markets, its bar counter provides a spectacle of myriad types of omelette, scrambled eggs, sausage and savoury pies, a local classic. Be sure to try the goat’s-milk cheese, candied-tomato and spinach omelette.
Under the Valencian Sun
Kiosco La Pérgola. Located in the tranquil, sought-after Paseo de la Alameda, this is one of the city’s classic venues, both for its food and sunny terrace. The “bombón” is the star bite – with pork loin, mushrooms, cheese and a special sauce. You can also elect to order the sandwich with just mushrooms, or with grouper or liver, which in La Pérgola is a whole delicacy.
Size Rules
Bodega La Pascuala. All the rage among elevenses devotees, this venue is located in the seafaring quarter of El Cabañal, just a stone’s throw from La Malvarrosa Beach. Their star performer is the “Súper”, an oversize sandwich comprising a whole stick of bread, with horse meat, onion, bacon, cheese and typical Catalan tomato bread. The peanuts and olives are on the house.
Michelin-Starred Brunch
Central Bar. A Michelin-starred elevenses is also doable. Run by the acclaimed chef, Ricard Camarena, this bar is in the amazing Central Market in El Carmen District, the city’s historic centre. The star sandwich is named after Ricard Camarena himself and features pork fillet, onion, cheese and mustard – a festival of flavours!
A Classic – Calamari Sandwich
Casa Mundo. Founded in 1953 by a football player and Valencia CF’s greatest ever goal-scorer, Edmundo Suárez “Mundo”, this bar in the city centre has held out admirably against the invasion of franchises. Noteworthy is their famous calamari sandwich, but also the blanco y negro (black and white) with broad beans, as well as the chivito (steakburger) and pepito de pisto (ratatouille meat sandwich), which has been made to the same recipe for over 50 years.
La Piulà. A wealth of sandwiches with juicy, crisp, homemade batter-fried calamari. The optional condiment is a mild mayonnaise. Also well worth trying is their ciclista, made of ham, omelette and tomato as the main ingredients.
Hidden in the Historic City
Tasca Ángel. The last stop on our route is a secluded venue near the Mercat Central (Central Market), a few metres away from La Lonja (Silk Exchange). This bar features what are possibly the best sardines in town – their great draw and speciality – but they have other delicacies worth trying, too. From griddled vegetables to tapas you’d be hard put to find elsewhere, notably the riñoncitos (kidneys) and lleterola (gizzard), a favourite in the Horta Valenciana rural district. Oh, and don’t pass up theirajo arriero(salt cod, potato and garlic paste).
Check out your Vueling here and join the culture of the “esmorçaret”.
Text by Laura Llamas for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
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Pintxos and Clubbing in Donosti
Having been invited on a pintxo crawl of San Sebastián by the club, Dabadaba, and to steer the DJ booth for revellers to dance to their heart’s content, I set out some hours ahead of my session to find the best pintxos in town. I was lucky to have my friend, Borja, as my guide. Apart from being a local, as well as producing and DJ’ing good music, he knows the temples of those delicious dinky bites like the back of his hand. Here we go…
Evenings In the Thick Of It
Our tour began at Txepetxa, home of the anchovy, offering all kinds of pintxos featuring that small yet noble fish, accompanied by cream of spider crab, sea urchin, olive paté, foie gras, stewed apple or trout and salmon roe. Everything looked awesome, but I opted for a fresh anchovy classic. Great! We went for a stroll to La Concha and headed into Narru, in the basement of the historic Hotel Niza, with views over the bay which clearly ratchets up the experience of tasting their dishes, notably their luma gorri (chicken wing) with potato, smashed fried egg and alioli or the secreto ibérico ham. Stunning! We retraced our steps to the old town and went into Zazpi, where the young chef, Paul Arrillaga, doles out happiness from his fiery helm in the form of a spectacular “potato volcano”, a pintxo based on truffle, egg and potato or an exquisite ox-tail ravioli. A veritable banquet. We made our way to Dabadaba.
After opening in April 2014, the locale has been graced by the likes of Allah-Las, Sean Nicholas Savage, The Godfathers and Omar Souleyman, among others. On stage were The Space Lady, a pioneer of electronic music, with a staging as minimalist as it is breathtaking. They bewitched us completely and, when we came down to earth again, we were faced by Fernando Lagreca churning out his particular electronic brand as a matchless prelude to my own set. My turn came. I started with some new releases I have been DJ’ing recently, interspersing themes from Italo disco, acid and disco bizarro. Things perked up and Dabadaba ended up dancing in full swing. A great night – we had a smashing time. Then we hit the hay.
Saturday In Donosti Is No Ordinary Saturday
Rising early is a virtue, but doing so when you’ve been to bed late is untenable. So we headed straight off in search of pintxos. Again in the old town, I was taken to Paco Bueno, a spot I wouldn’t miss for anything. Offering a meagre four or five pintxos, notably shrimp dumpling, hake in batter, croquettes and pie, this is one of the city’s most crowded bars, opened in 1950 by a retired boxer. The business was later taken over by his son, a rugby player, as is his brother, Chufo, and his son, Gorka. A family concern with warm, family service, the bar walls crammed with pictures of boxing and the sport with a melon-shaped ball – what else would you expect? Still in the inner city, we made for Borda Berri, whose staff are shared by La Cuchara de San Telmo, another illustrious pintxo temple. The star dish is their “kebap”, a delicious pork ribs with an incongruous name which prompts veritable pilgrimages to taste it. Other dishes with the same fate include their cheek of beef, octopus and risotto de Idiazábal. Just opposite lies Txuleta, specialising in meat dishes, if you fancy that. The best thing then was to work off the meal by striking out and we ended up at the Club Náutico de Donosti, with the whole La Concha bay before us. The sun was blazing that day and this spot was divine. The upstairs floor houses GU, another club where you can dance house or techno, depending on the night. I made a point of visiting Tabakalera before I left.
On the verge of making its debut as the European Capital of Culture, with the San Sebastián International Film Festival and the San Sebastián Jazz Festival among its leading cultural draws, the city boasts a peerless interdisciplinary space known as La Tabakalera. This public International Contemporary Culture Centre focuses on promoting upcoming local creatives and hosts activities revolving primarily around research, production and exhibition. Their feature-film and documentary seasons, exhibitions and Hirkilabs spaces, their Digital and Technology Culture Lab and Ubik – Tabakalera Creation Library – make this one of Donosti’s liveliest and most avant-garde hubs. The premises have character, set in a building that was once the city’s tobacco factory. A city with character, too.
There you have it – there’s a lot more to San Sebastián than La Concha. Fancy discovering it? Check out our flights here.
Text and images by Luis Costa for ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
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