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Hipster route in Bilbao

There's no doubt that the hipster and hipster fashions are here to stay. While the "hip" subculture dates back to the 1940s, the movement is again on the rise and is clearly marking out its territory.

Bilbao’s fame as a cultural mecca has reached as far as China and beyond, but people may not realise the extent of the hipsterisation of this former industrial city in the Basque country on the northern Spanish coast, thanks to the transformations undertaken in recent decades and the quirky, youthful pulse of contemporary Bilbao. Even the football team, known by its English name of “Athletic Club de Bilbao”, or “Athletic” for short, fits the hipster mould thanks to its peculiar philosophy. And it’s the sole team in the Spanish league that fields only local players.

There are plenty of place for visitors to sleep. One of our choices would be Basque Boutique, a small hotel located in the heart of the Casco Viejo or old city centre. Guests are immediately immersed in the culture, since each of its eight rooms is dedicated to a particular aspect of Basque life or gastronomy: the Karola (a giant red industrial crane that still stands), Marijaia (the rotund figure of the legendary lady who presides over the city’s annual fiesta), or the baldosa de Bilbao (the city’s traditional geometrically patterned paving blocks). The hotel achieves a perfect fusion of tradition and the avant-garde, mixing vintage décor with such modem comforts and television, Wi-Fi, air-conditioning, and en suite bathrooms. It’s an unforgettable experience you sholn0’t miss.

Another spot that exudes charm is the little Pensión Caravan Cinema. Also in the city’s old quarter, it uniquely combines history, atmosphere, and comfort. Each of the five rooms is dedicated to a contemporary Spanish film director: Pedro Almodovar, Alejandro Amenábar, Alex de la Iglesia ,Julio Medem, and Fernando Trueba. Both comfortable and surprisingly economical. If you’re into Spanish movies, this is definitely for you.

Now that we’ve unpacked, it’s time to sample Bilbao’s famed mini food portions, known as tapas in the rest of Spain but pintxos in the food-obsessed Basque country. One place everyone should try is Brass, on Licenciado Pozas street. For breakfast, brunch, or an afternoon aperitif with a pintxo or three, this is where to go. Talented DJs also perform there after sundown, evenings, and you’ll probably want to stay all night. It’s the most hipster establishment of Bilbao, and the prices are quite reasonable.

On the same street is the la tabernilla de Pozas, an old-fashioned tavern that will take you back to the Bilbao of many decades ago. Instead of pintxos, what you’ll find on the high, wide bar are sandwiches made with tuna or anchovies (bocadillos de atún or anchoas), but you’re have to ask for them –there is no sign or indication.

Charlotte, in calle Heros, serves breakfasts, and then pintxos, as well as the most scrumptious pastries. It’s also famed for cocktails that some rank well above those concocted in New York. It’s American-style décor adds to its popularity amongst the local hipster community.

We mustn’t omit Mr Marvelous, on the same street , which is lined with interesting places. A variety of delicious croquettes, incredible loin of venison, poached eggs with truffle and mushroom sauce –you won’t be able to stop eating!

If you still have room after the pintxos, you may want a proper meal in one of Bilbao’s many excellent restaurants, such as la Camelia, for ecological sushi and the organically grown and exquisitely prepared vegetarian dishes. Who knew healthy food could taste this good?

Bascook,in Barroeta Aldamar street, belongs to the famed chef Aitor Elizegi, whose skills and inspiration have won him dozens of awards. Bascook combines traditions and innovation. The food is delicious and the atmosphere cosy. There a very affordable prix fixe luncheon menu.

For the gastronomically adventurous there is Kokken, where fine dining and fine art go hand in hand. The cuisine is Scandinavian and so is the décor –modern, functional, and very welcoming.

One further proposal is that you try Colombo, on Rodríguez Arias street. You won’t know how good croquettes, hummus or ceviche (marinated raw fish) can taste until you’ve tried them here. And the wait staff couldn’t be more attentive and charming!

When we’re able to rise from the table, we might think about hitting Bilbao’s astounding profusion of shops, Hitz for example, sells stationery supplies, gifts, and perfumes in a vintage atmosphere, set off by old steamer trunk, typewriters, and other antiques –totally hipster!

Another must is Flamingo Records, selling vinyl disks –including rare treasures and first editions– In every musical category and style. You won’t leave empty-handed.

The hipster clothing store par excellence is Arizona Vintage Clothing. It features 100% American style gear and accessories.

In the Bilbao La Vieja or Ibaiondo district you’ll find Vacas Flacas, the city’s most spectacular second-hand clothing shop, where goods of the highest quality can be purchased at bargain prices. But you must telephone an hour in advance for an appointment.

One of Bilbao’s most unusual establishments which no visitor should miss is La Casa de Atrás, with a huge selection of old books, many of them out of print for decades, as well as numerous vinyl records. There’s also an on-site tattoo parlour. Could you ask for anything more?.

One of our favourites is the famed furniture and decorations shop Almoneda Campos, on calle Bertendona. Its speciality is old-fashioned lamps and chandeliers, but there’s much, much more to see and fall in love with.

Time for a snack? How about one of city’s most hipster –and friendliest– bars,Residence, on calle Barraincúa, and very close to the Guggenheim museum. The best place in town for a tall gin and tonic or an exotic imported beer. Live music, too!

Another very special spot is La Catedral de la Cerveza, (“the beer cathedral”), a mecca for serious beer aficionados, on Carnicería Vieja street in the old quarter, featuring brews from Austria, Belgium, the Czech Republic, Denmark, England, France, Germany, Ireland, Italy, the Netherlands, Norway, Russia, Scotland, Sweden, and the Basque Country itself. You can even buy kits to make you own beer.

Let’s not forget bar Marzana, on the street of the same name, which has become a marvellous amalgam of the old and new. Don’t worry if there’s no table. You can sit on the street and enjoy the incredible river view.

A last drink, but where? How about La Karola? It is named for the famous crane that still towers above the site where Bilbao’s Euskalduna shipyards once stood, and which was named in its day for the young lady who used to cross the bridge over the river every day, and whose beauty transfixed the district's industrial workers and passers-by. The bar, opened 40 years ago, has enviable views of the river and food so delicious it will take you breath away.

But there are still more places to visit, such as the café-theatre La Ribera, in the lower part of the La Ribera (“the riverbank”) market. Great food and live music –chiefly jazz and indie. For atmosphere, there’s nothing like it in Bilbao.

If you happen to be visiting the city on the last Sunday of the month, you won’t want to miss The Sunday Market, inspired by such street markets as London’s Brick Lane or Spitalfields. The theme “A passion for pretty things” applies to everything you’ll see there, from decorative items and antiques to vintage clothing, cupcakes, handicrafts, gadgets, art, flowers, charming little shops, bars, and restaurants, live music, etc. Another street market, thel Dos de Mayo is set up on the first Saturday of the month, and is a great excuse to tour the neighbouring shops like Atakontu, Cultto, or Trakabarraka,and perhaps to sample a vermouth at one of the many local bars. If it’s a sunny day the atmosphere is amazing.

And here we end our hipster tour of Bilbao, first reminding you that there’s much more to this fascinating city that you’ll discover for yourself when you come. Now’s the time to book a ticket on vueling!

Photos: Fernando Sanz
Text: Tensi Sánchez de actitudesmgz.com

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10 tips for foodies in Copenhagen

By Isabel Loscertales from Gastronomistas

Small, pretty and laid-back, the Danish capital is the perfect destination to enjoy a culinary break. Noma, voted best restaurant in the world three years in a row (2010-2012) and with two Michelin stars, put the city on the international gourmet map and revolutionised the country's cuisine. But there's more foodie heaven beyond Noma. Copenhagen is proud of its desire to update tradition, its love for all things organic, its 'hygge' spirit (pretty, cosy ambience), its passion for design, its sun terraces... Between mouthfuls, make sure not to miss a stroll along Strøget shopping street, the colourful Nyhavn canal or the Tivoli Gardens; take a selfie with the Little Mermaid; explore the liveliest neighbourhoods: Vesterbro and Nørrebro; or wander around the independent area of Christiania - the centre of counter-culture. Go on foot or, like the locals, ride a bike. Here are ten tasty stop-offs for you:

1. New Danish cuisine

If you have plenty to spend, make sure you try and book for Noma online (Strandgade, 93). The chef, René Redzepi, was a pioneer in updating traditional Danish cuisine and recovering local ingredients with a special penchant for all things organic, natural and raw (wild herbs, etc.). He signed the New Kitchen Manifesto in 2004 (à la Lars von Trier) with other chefs which stirred up some trouble. If you do not fancy spending 1600 kroner (around €193) for the set menu (wine not included), you can always have a nosy at the old warehouse where it is located, on the Christianshavn wharf. If it's full, try the two starred Geranium run by Rasmus Kofoed (Per Henrik Lings Allé 4, 8º)

If you're on a tighter budget, we recommend Höst (Nørre Farimagsgade, 41), a cosy restaurant that won the best design in the world award at the Restaurant & Bar Design Awards 2013. A spot-on combination of industrial interior design (warehouse like) and rural touches (some details evoking a farmhouse), and a lively-cum-intimate ambience are the two main features here whose raison d'être comes from these contrasts. For example, the ceiling is made from (recycled) wood and the floor is concrete. Spread over two floors and several rooms, we recommend ordering the set menu (actually, the rest of the menu is fairly short). It comes in at 295 kroner (around €35, wine not included) and offers two dishes and dessert, as well as several surprise amuse-bouches. Try the trout with black chanterelles, cauliflower (uncooked slices), mushroom jus and lots of fresh herbs as a starter; beef shank with mashed potato, carpaccio, beetroot and Madagascar pepper sauce for your main; and Jerusalem artichoke ice cream with an apple, muesli, meringue, sautéed Jerusalem artichoke slices and crunchy caramel crumble. Surprising delicious mixes.

2. Jaeggerborgade Street, as 'in' as it gets

In the multicultural neighbourhood of Nørrebro is the city's hipster-filled street with rows of fantastic spots. In addition to vintage clothes stores, second hand book shops, décor and design boutiques, and art and record shops, there are a few essential foodie outlets. Coffee Collection, at number 10, serves the best coffee in the city thanks to skilled baristas and fair trade coffee. An aromatic spot indeed! The premises itself are very interesting, breaking down traditional barriers meaning you'll find a young guy making coffee as if he were in his own kitchen, with no bar and a huge coffee grinder next to him. The well-respected chef Christian Puglisi (ex-Noma and elBulli) has two highly recommended spots facing one another: Relae (no. 41), with a Michelin star and serving two set menus (one for meat eaters, one for vegetarians) for around €46 not including wine, and Manfreds & Vin (no.40), specialising in natural wines and tapas. In addition, there's the artisan chocolate shop Ro Chokolade (no. 25), the handmade sweets at Karamelleriet by Ipsen /Vigel (no. 36) and the organic bakery Meyers Bageri (no. 9), run by Claus Meyer (co-owner of Noma alongside Rene).

3. Meatpacking District: Industrial cool

The other fashionable neighbourhood is Vesterbro that hides a converted industrial area home to a gourmet oasis for hipsters in pure New York style (nor for nothing does it share the same name as the NYC district). The funny thing is that in Copenhagen, the area is still home to real meatpacking businesses. In addition to the very popular Kødbyens Fiskebar (Flæsketorvet, 100), an industrial premises serving seafood, and the huge Italian terrace Mother, inviting you to spend hours in the sun (Høkerboderne, 9-15), there is the organic BioMio (Halmtorvet, 19). Located in a former Bosch appliance workshop that still has the neon lights on the front, it houses a large room with communal wooden tables and an open kitchen. The menu offers organic international cuisine with dishes to share (such as green beans with celeriac or salmon rillettes), a couple of woks, half a dozen "knife and fork" dishes (the kamut wheat risotto is excellent) and several natural options. Prices average around €35.

 4. Hipster bars for hipster city

Still in Vesterbro (although beyond the Meatpacking District), there is a couple of bars (amongst others) for taking a break. On the one hand, the Cafe Granola (Vaernedamsvej, 5) has coffees, juices, milkshakes, breakfasts, sandwiches and cocktails in a relaxed atmosphere playing Motown in the background. On the other, the modern anti-design Bang & Jensen (Istedgade, 130). Famous for its wall with a painting of a sailor re-done in different artistic styles, cool youngsters come here for a quick bit or cocktail at the rickety tables and chairs.

5. La Glace: The most famous cake shop

Copenhagen's oldest cake shop (Conditori) is also famous for being Hans Christian Andersen's favourite. Enjoy its handmade cakes in a classically charming ambience. Its speciality, The Sports Cake, was create in 1891 for the play 'Sports Man' and is made from nougat, whipped cream and caramelised choux pastry. A recommended calorie-filled temptation. Skoubogade, 3.

6. The smørrebrød or open sandwich

It is one of the best known Danish dishes and ideal for a reasonably priced informal meal (Copenhagen is not exactly known for being a cheap city). It comprises a slice of bread and butter topped with different ingredients: smoked fish such as salmon or kipper, cold cuts, pâtés, eggs... alongside some type of pickle or extra something (capers, onion, dressing...). It can be enjoyed at traditional spots such as the Ida Davidsen (Store Kongensgade, 70) or the always busy Schønnemann (Hauser Plads, 16). Some chefs have even come up with updated versions, adding a more foodie touch. This is true for Adam Aaman who, after his success in Copenhagen (Øster Farimagsgade,10), has opened an Aamanns branch in New York.

7. Shooping: Torvehallerne & Royal Copenhguen

Luxury-loving palates can take away a gastronomic souvenir from the modern Torvehallerne market, in Israel Plads square (currently all upside down due to construction work). Encased in glass and split into two structures, the market offers all kinds of gourmet spots and small stands where you can grab a taste of something interesting. If you prefer a 'solid' souvenir, the artisan pottery from Royal Copenhaguen is renowned (the window displays are well worth a look). Amagertorv, 6.

8. Chic wineries

Two popular spots to have a wine in Copenhagen, in addition to the aforementioned Manfreds & Vin. On the one hand, Atelier September (Gothersgade, 30) is a charming former antique shop turned into a café and shop. You can try a natural wine in a cosy atmosphere with a stimulating mix of furniture and artistic original posters (when we were there, we saw a giant Tàpies one), all for sale. It also serves breakfasts and light meals. On the other, Bibendum (Nansensgade, 45) is a pretty intimate French-inspired spot that takes its name from Michelin's dog. As well as choosing from its selection of international wines by the bottle or glass, the tapas come highly recommended.

 9. Carlsberg lager

No matter how much they craft their wine lists, the truth is Denmark does not have great wines. So what they do is make beer. Larger fans have a must-see in the city: the Carlsberg Brewery (two entrances: Gamle Carlsberg Vej, 11 or Bryggerhesten, 1), one of the most famous in the world. They offer guided tours lasting around 90 minutes that of course include a tasting. We also tried another highly aromatic full-bodied Danish beer, Nørrebro Bryghus, made in a small brewery. It is easy to find in different bars and restaurants although it also has its own place (Ryesgade, 3).

 10. At the epicentre: Andersen Hotel

This new boutique hotel has three things we love: design, comfort and location. Tucked behind the Tivoli Gardens and next to the trendy Meatpacking District, in the heart of Vesterbro, it is an ideal starting point for exploring different areas in the city. Check if they have any bikes available if you fancy travelling on two wheels. Before heading out, take your time with the tasty hearty breakfast with endless combinations for a personal yoghurt flavour, different organic choices and delicious croissants. From 925 kroner (around €111) per night for a double room. Helgolandsgade, 12.

 So you feel like visiting Copenhagen, do you? Book your flights here!

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10 PLACES TO GO WITH KIDS IN SPRING

A selection of family-friendly countries in Europe which are perfect for visiting with the kids this spring, by Mammaproof.

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