The best pizzas al taglio in Rome
By Silvia Artaza from Gastronomistas
Rome. The Eternal City. One of those places in the world where anyone would want to fall in love. A walk, agelato, the Coliseum. A terrace, some laughter. Going to the Vatican and wishing time would stand still in the Sistine Chapel. Its pastas, its pizzas, itsaperitivi. Getting lost in the Trastevere or sitting in anypiazza. I don't think you really need a reason to fly to Rome but - just in case - here are a few.
We've chosen pizzaal taglio(by the slice) as an excuse for our trip because we think it's a great way to take in Rome on a tourist's day out. The fact is that Rome has many things but if there's one thing that it can really shout about, it's an overwhelming abundance of monuments, art and culture.
You will find pizzaal taglioat every corner. In apanificio, in afornoor in bars withtavola calda(hot table) where there are tables to sit at. You can't miss it. If you find yourself in front of a big glass counter, then you've found those pizzasal taglio.
Forget typical pizza. These pizzasal tagliohave a characteristic texture and thickness. They require a high water content in the dough, they have to be spongy and you will find them with lots of ingredients. It is a cheap, fast and - if you know how to choose well - really delicious formula. They are sold in portions by weight, premises are small and there may not even be tables.Street foodRoman style in the pure state. Here's our top choice:
Forno Campo de 'Fiori
They have been producing all kinds of breads, pizzas and other specialities in thisfornofor over 30 years. Their pizzabianca(just the dough, without any type of ingredient) is one of the best in the city. Spongy and crunchy. No tricks. Light. You can have it on its own, use it as bread for a sandwich or give it a savoury filling or something sweet likenutella.
Campo De' Fiori, 22 http://www.fornocampodefiori.com/
Antico Forno Roscioli
Another classicalfornoa few steps from thepiazzaCampo de’Fiori. Here we also find the "barest" specialities of pizzaal tagliosuch as thebiancaor therossa, which only has pomodoro (tomato) and is the one that sells most. Other varieties also come out of the oven, such as the Caprese, with fresh mozzarella, raw tomatoes and basil. Spongy dough and crunchy crusts.
Via dei Chiavari, 34 http://www.salumeriaroscioli.com/
Also central - very near the Pantheon and the Piazza Navona. It is open longer hours than thefornoso you can pop by at supper time too. Its pizza dough is fermented for 72 hours and they work with fresh, organic ingredients with no animal fat. We tried the spinach one with fresh mozzarella and the salmon one. We had seconds with the mushroom one. Very good.
Piazza di Sant’Eustachio, 49. http://www.pizzazaza.it/it/index.html
This is a little further away but it's worth the visit. Perfect if you're taking a tour of the Vatican. Here you can try the varieties that are a little more creative and risky, such as mortadella with chickpea paste (exactly, it doesn't have tomato or cheese) and fresh ingredients such as aubergine, artichoke, spinach, ham or pumpkin flowers.
Via della Meloria, 43
If we're talking about creativity, we can't forget this place. Also far from the centre, this time it's recommended if you're near the Coliseum or the Circus Maximus. Creative because the pizza here is stuffed and served in original cones. Inside? Nothing that might be expected. Here the pizza is stuffed with traditional stews likechicken alla cacciatora,bollito pichiapoorparmigiana di melazane. We also tried thesuppli, a kind of ball-shaped croquette stuffed with rice and more, such as for example, chicken curry. All really good and great staff.
Via Giovanni Branca, 88 http://www.trapizzino.it/
More pizzas al taglio at:
Angelo e Simonetta. Via Nomentana 581
Pizzeria Serenella. Via Salaria 70
Volpetti Più. Via Alessandro Volta 8
Pizzeria Gegè. Piazza Vescovio 17
Farro Zero. Via Alfonso Rendano 31
Other tips for eating in Rome:
Now that we've been there, we'll tell you - because we didn't just eat pizza on our getaway. Pasta is another of the big names in Italian cuisine, which is prepared in a thousand and one ways depending on the area. In Rome you will find a large variety but there's alwaysSpaghetti alla carbonara,Bucatini all’amatriciana(tomato sauce, a kind of bacon, pecorino cheese and pepper),Spaghetti cacio e pepe(just with oil, pecorino and pepper) orPenne all’arrabbiata(with garlic and pepper that is a little spicy). Pasta and more, such asaperitivi, an Italian custom of meeting after work to have a spritz and a snack on a selection of dishes, buffet-style, where only the drink has to be paid for. Make a note of these three addresses:
Trattoria Moderna. Cerca de Campo De' Fiori, this trattoriawill win you over through its pastas and its homemade tiramisu. Don't forget to look at the day's specials. We loved the Ravioli with ricottaand spinach with cherry tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella and Tortellini stuffed with meat and served with a cheese sauce. (Vicolo dei Chiodaroli 16)
Navona Notte.A narrow street around the Piazza Navona. Good pastas, risotto and terrinesas antipastiin delicious clay casseroles. We went for the zucchine(courgette) a la parmigianawith buffalo mozzarella, basil , tomato and pecorinoand parmigianocheeses. (Via del Teatro Pace 44)
Freni e Frizioni. A premises in El Trastevere for having your aperitivi. Good atmosphere and a square full of people in one of liveliest districts in the city. It also has a cocktail bar (Via del Politeama 4 – 6 http://www.freniefrizioni.com/ )
Where to sleep:
If you know Rome, then you already know that Termini is one of the best options for accommodation. If not, we recommend it to you, because all transport from the airport goes there and it is a very well-connected area, both for getting around on foot and also for getting away by bus, underground or train.
We stayed at the Eurostars International Palace (Via Nazionale, 46 http://www.hoteleurostarsinternationalpalace.com/) a recommendable hotel in the area. Comfortable, in a good location, with very friendly staff and a breakfast that, of course, is added to the list of gastronomic tips that we are giving you here. Sweet items, different breads, cold meats, cheeses, or heavier options such as eggs or salad, or fresh fruit... everything! It feels great to start a day of tourism in Rome like this - a city that we won't tire of recommending you to walk around, experience and enjoy. Buon appetito!
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A tour of Madrid's museums? And then dinner nearby
Madrid is an exceptional city for any art lover. And a gastronomic metropolis for the most discerning palates. To help you get the most out of your time, here are some restaurant recommendations for every museum. ENJOY!more info
Tasty Eating in Palermo’s Markets and Other Spots
Palermo strikes a curious balance between large shopping precincts and narrow streets exuding romantic decadence, between makeshift street grill-stalls throbbing with electronic music and leisurely faddish restaurants. The city is, at times, caught up in another era, but also in the present, while aspiring to a better future.
A city of contrasts, influences and cultural convergence, Palermo has a lot to say in gastronomic terms. Both pasta and pizza are a mainstay of local cuisine, as they are in the rest of Italy, although here they have been revamped, displaying surprising traits, and combined with other local dishes that draw heavily on the sea or trip and offal. And, it is immediately evident the moment you walk into any of its markets, a must-see attraction if you happen to journey here.
Vucciria, Il Capo and Ballaró
Palermo’s three markets. They open every day except Sunday, from early in the morning until nightfall. As the stall produce becomes depleted, they clear up and bolt the small garages that act as storerooms. The markets are best visited in the morning, if you want to enjoy them in full swing. There’ll be vegetables you have likely never seen before, as well as spices, cheeses, a wealth of different olives, peppers, huge swordfish heads…
You can try street specialities such as pane con la milza or pani ca’ meusa (a sandwich of spleen fried in lard, served up with caciocavallo or ricotta cheese and lemon), arancini (fried rice balls, usually stuffed with meat) and panelle (gram flour fritters).
You could also take a breather and enjoy a marsala (vintage wine) at such bars as the legendary Taverna Azzurra, in the Vucciria, a meeting point every weekend after nightfall, when the market streets have been taken over by the youth, birras, music, table football and grills stuffed with stigghiola (tripe seasoned with salt, pepper and lemon, with or without bread).
You can stroll through the markets, sip a marsala wine and eat stigghiola. But you can also trek across the whole city and take note of some of the eateries worth visiting.
Da Diego. Pizzas and more, on the Via della Libertá. Not a tourist in sight and filled to bursting. An assortment of thick-dough pizzas stuffed with ingredients. We go for the one with mozzarella, sausage, spinach and mushrooms, accompanied by some swordfish involtini (rolls) with aubergine sauce, and sfinzione (Sicilian pizza) stuffed with ricotta and pesto. This is a type of focaccia topped with a crust of tomato, caciocavallo cheese, anchovy, onion and aromatic herbs.
Trattoria Michele & Jolanda. Just like home. We expected home cooking and, boy, did we get it! There you’ll be welcomed by Michele in the dining-room and Jolanda in the kitchen, sitting down at the table as if she were a guest. We order caponata (aubergine and other vegetables in tomato sauce), caprese (tomato, fresh mozzarella and basil) and a cold pepper salad as antipasti. Then pasta alla norma (tomato, aubergine and other vegetables), accompanied by le sarde, a typical Palermo recipe based on fresh sardines and fennel. And, not to be disloyal to the traditional repertoire, we round it off with cannoli– crisp, rolled pastry wafers filled with ricotta cheese. If you’re looking for an entertaining, lively, tasty, homemade meal at a good price, don’t fail to come here. It’s on the Via Cappuccini 12.
Osteria Mangia e Bevi. Quaint and pleasant. Beyond the family milieu we come to a trendier restaurant, but without foregoing fresh, wholesome cuisine, of course. We can recommend this restaurant for its fresh pasta, its fried pasta and its agglassati – two traditional ways of using up leftovers from yesterday’s dishes. Ideal, too, for tasting local wines and a marvellous cannolo served in a glass.
When it comes to lodgings, we can recommend the Castelnuovo area, set in a shopping precinct and just a stone’s throw from the old town. We stayed at the Hotel Politeama, which is functional and provides wonderful, congenial service and a breakfast not lacking in sweet, savoury, fruit, jams with a host of flavours, different kinds of bread and even cannoli! The hotel looks onto a large piazza and the airport bus stops right outside the door, giving you a headstart if you want to move about without wasting time.
If you have the odd day left over, you are encouraged to get out of Palermo and discover a bit of Sicily. To accomplish this it is wise to get in touch with Ulisse, which organises regular, private outings from there. They really look after you – you won’t have any language difficulties and will be spared hassles when you need to use public transport and pick your way through the island’s chaotic traffic.
A destination worth discovering – Check out our flights here.
Text and photos by Silvia Artaza (Gastronomistas)more info
The markets of St Petersburg and surrounding areas
Its markets are the best place to take the pulse of any city,places where you can experience the day-to-day life of the people and mingle with the local population. This is no less true in Saint Petersburg, where haggling is encouraged and stallholders will even offer you their wares without any kind of pressure to buy.
The most central and representative of the markets in Saint Petersburg (and also the most expensive) is the Kuznechny Market where you will find flowers, vegetables, cheeses and natural honey for sale.
Numerous attractions are located close to the market: the Arctic and Antarctic Museum can be found in the former Church of Saint Nicholas and includes exhibits on the characteristics of the polar regions, the history behind the conquest of the Great North and the economy and culture of the Nordic people. The Floral Exhibition Centre, the Vladimirskaya Church and the Lensoveta Culture Centre at 42 Kamennoostrovsky Avenue are also worth visiting.
The Dostoevsky Museum is another nearby attraction – the place where this famous writer and author of such novels as ‘Crime and Punishment’, ‘Demons’ and ‘The Idiot’ lived and died. This house museum has been faithfully restored to how it was originally.
What was once an old hay market has now become a major food market with clothing stalls that fill the surrounding streets.
A large part of ‘Crime and Punishment’ by Dostoevsky is set in the streets of the Sennaya district, where the Sennoy Market is to be found. It is more popularly known as the Dostoevsky District.
It is an excellent area for a spot of shopping in the large department stores. Sennaya Square is a bustling hive of activity where you can find the famous PIK and the large Sennaya Shopping Centre.
For some nice, reasonably-priced home-made food, you should head over to Kafe Adzhika.
If you’re up for a short walk, take a stroll over to Yusupov Palace, located on the edge of the River Moika and one of the most spectacular monuments to classicism to be found in Saint Petersburg.
On the small Zayachy Island in the River Neva is the true historical centre of the city: Peter and Paul Fortress, the original citadel of Saint Petersburg. Peter I the Great ordered its construction in 1703 and it contains such remarkable buildings as the Peter and Paul Cathedral, where all the Tsars from Peter I the Great to Nicholas II and his family are buried. Standing 122 metres tall, the cathedral bell tower is the highest point in the city.
Although initially designed for defensive purposes, it never needed to be used for that but rather served as a prison until 1917. Its most famous prisoners included such individuals as Trotski, Dostoevsky and Bakunin.
Also nearby is the Saint Petersburg Zoo and the Political History Museum.
A good choice for something to eat would be the popular Salkhino restaurant where they serve Georgian cuisine. In the evening, you might want to try out the legendary Tunnel Club, the first techno club to open in Russia.
Vernisazh Souvenir Market
Less of a market and more a collection of souvenir stalls, this is to be found behind the Cathedral of the Resurrection of Christ or the Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood and is one of the most popular tourist sites and an attraction in itself. Here you will find many traditional Russian gifts and souvenirs.
The Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood was built on the spot where Tsar Alexander III was killed. The interior and exterior mosaic decorations are fantastic, as are its stained glass windows. The temple was built in the Russian architectural style of the 16th-17th Centuries (pure Russian orthodox) and bears a striking resemblance to Saint Basil’s Cathedral in Moscow’s Red Square.
Its five large bulbous domes decorated in numerous colours and gold, as well as the meticulous detail work that covers the exterior, are yet more features that make this an outstanding piece of architecture.
Imagen de iwillbehomesoon
Makes you want to go, right? Do it! Check out our prices here!