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Seville’s Unique Flavour

By Belén Parra from gastronomistas

Seville’s unique character will hit you as soon as you arrive. Or when you hear that melody; the one you just know will stay with you on your journey, like a memory. Seville is replete with singular colours, aromas and flavours. It is exalting and magical, and pure art. It is all consuming and prevailing. From pre-dinner drinks then onto tapas and the marcha that lasts well into the night. From the small plates of russian salad and patatas bravas in between glasses of rebujito (sherry and soda), cold beer and red wine. And lets not forget the music and dance of flamenco and the sheer joy of the locals who, in a short time, will have you clapping your hands right along with them. Seville makes you forget yourself and gives meaning to life, because in the capital of Andalucía enjoyment is obligatory. Lose yourself in its small streets, landmark monuments, hidden corners and best tables. Whether you are here for a few days or a long stay, experience Seville with a passion.

WHERE TO EAT:

Tradevo. This gastro-tavern is a city institution – as much for locals who appreciate great cuisine as the city’s chefs who come to chew over their trade. The menu fuses tradition and modernity in reasonably priced ‘small plates’ of generous servings and beautiful presentation. Although Travedo is situated out of the tourist zone, it can be hard to get a table (or even a stool at the bar). The salmorejo (a thicker, creamier gazpacho) is to die for, as are daily specials and rice dishes.
Plaza Pintor Amalio García del Moral, 2.

La Pepona Tapas. Situated in the city centre, La Pepona Tapas excels in using local produce in dishes that hail from other parts of the country. It is one of the few places that understand the importance of a good aperitif. Its bodega boasts a fantastic wine selection (especially varieties from Jerez) that can be enjoyed by the glass or half glass – making it a good place to taste local vinos.
Javier Lasso de la Vega, 1.

La Fábrica. La Fábrica belongs to the same groups as Besana Tapas – the ‘tapas temple’ situated in Utrea, a few kilometres from Seville. Located in the buzzing neighbourhood of Alameda, epicentre of the city’s nightlife, it offers non-stop gourmet sandwiches, from breakfast to supper.
Correduría, 1.

Ena. Ena is a new ‘gastro space’ inside the imposing Hotel Alfonso XIII. Having fallen in love with Seville, Carles Abellán from Catalonia has taken on the role of executive chef. For the menu, he has reinterpreted some classic Andalucian dishes and incorporated some of his own famous tapas creations, such as spicy patatas bravas and toasted ham and cheese sandwiches infused with truffle oil. On top of offering an unbeatable setting, Ena has some of the best bartenders in the country. (A cocktail, either pre or post dinner, is imperative). Leave room for the ‘solid’ sangria or another of Abellán’s amusing desserts. Hotel Alfonso XIII. San Fernando, 2.

La Mojigata. A simple, unassuming place where food takes prime place. The tapas changes daily according to produce available in the market, yet always surprises with artful combinations and presentation. The wine list has been carefully edited by the president of the Sommeliers Association of Andalucía.
Moratín, 15.

WHERE TO HAVE A DRINK:

Eme. With views of the Cathedral and the Giralda, the terrace of this hotel is the place to see and be seen. Smart casual dress and atmosphere.
Alemanes, 27.

Inglaterra. Another hotel that stands out on the Plaza Nueva. Go to the top floor to enjoy wide views over a long drink. The chilled out Inglaterra is the perfect place toescape the heat and the city rush.
Plaza Nueva, 7.

Las Casas del Rey de Baeza. Stroll through the historic city centre to this hotel, run by the Hospes Group, on the Plaza de la Redención. Converted from a series of period mansions, it has retained a rustic air and affords a calm ambiance that invites lingering. The patio is the best place to order a glass of wine accompanied by some delicious croquettes prepared by the Azahar restaurant. Or head up to the roof with its swimming pool and cocktail bar.
Plaza Jesús de la Redención, 2.

Bar Americano. We like its cocktail list, or more precisely, its selection of Cócteles de Cine that have been inspired by films shot in Seville. Bar Americano is a distinguished spot. Sophisticated and serene, it was instilled inside the Alfonso XIII during its most recent (and ambitious) renovation. It is perfect for a relaxed drink over conversation.
Hotel Alfonso XIII. San Fernando, 2.

WHERE TO SLEEP:

BarcelóRenacimiento.
Avda. Álvaro Alonso Barba, S/N.

Modern, functional and with all the services you could ever need; the Barceló Renacimientois a five star worth its salt for those who want everything at their fingertips. Situated a few steps from the Isla Mágica fun park, the Guadalquivir River and y La Alameda, its impressive installations include an open air swimming pool. Made to order breakfasts, free wifi, spacious rooms, various leisure and business areas, gardens and singular architecture present an enticing package.

WHERE TO HAVE A FOODIE TREAT:

A crema sevillana ice cream from the artisan ice-cream makers La Fiorentina.
Zaragoza, 16.

A brioche, butter or anchovy bread from Pan y Più, a traditional bakery with French and Italian influences

Cabeza del Rey Don Pedro.

Rosquillas, pain au chocolat, or cream cake (pastel de nata) at La Dulcería de Manu Jara.
Pureza, 5.

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Four Must Visit Gastrobars in Seville

That Seville is famous for its tapas is a well-known fact. But the city also happens to be riding on a burgeoning culinary wave and, instead of just limiting itself to culinary tradition, it has jumped onto the internationally inspired bandwagon of carefree, innovative and excellent process of reinvention, as well as implementing novel techniques and flourishes of modernity.

Lalola – A Gourmet Tavern
I should perhaps dare introduce this restaurant as one of the best in Seville. Tasting the creations served up in this self-proclaimed “gourmet tavern” is well worth the long walk, as it is located far from the bustle of the city centre in the quarter of Los Remedios. Lalola is the domain of chef Javier Abascal, a youngster you are sure to hear about in the coming years. And, it’s just as well. His menu is an ode to his four loves – quality product, cooking over a slow fire, reminiscences of Sephardic cuisine and offal, which has its own section on the menu, allowing you to taste anything from boned pig trotters with creamy potatoes to beef sweetbread with aniseed  crumble and bamboo or monkfish foie gras. But, it doesn’t stop there, as the other shared dishes provide another surprise – organic chickpea hummus, La Vera red peppers and sesame, tuna tartare and algae noodles… Average ticket: €20 per head.

Mercado Lonja del Barranco – Variety For All Tastes
Go inside Mercado Lonja del Barranco and you can watch dapper gentlemen arriving in what is possibly the trendiest spot in Seville, with its Nordic, vintage aesthetic. Quite a shock after having strolled through the old Jewish quarter and come across a religious procession in the Triana neighbourhood. But, it rocks, as its taste lies in the variety. And, here, there is variety in abundance, highly recommendable for the hesitant, for foodies eager to taste a bit of everything and for parties of guests. Mercado Lonja del Barranco offers over 150 dishes, both local and international. Here, it’s no easy task deciding from among such a broad selection. I can recommend dipping into the seafood section and trying the typical shrimp omelette. Likewise the gourmet salmorejo stand, where you can taste the different varieties of this local speciality, and the cut ham stand… Tickets from €3.

Séptimo Wine Bar
Séptimo
, because seven is a lucky number. And, Isabel and Floriant, the Hispano-French couple who run this locale, seem to have hit the jackpot. Some luck in it, of course, but you can’t detract from their job well done, driven as they are by a tireless passion, which you notice as soon as they start talking about a tuna fish in the kitchen with a sparkle in its eyes. Indeed, they have managed to continually fill to capacity their small, inviting premises ever since they first opened just over a year ago. Their offerings are gourmet tapas, “inspired by whatever”, accompanied by “whichever wine goes well”. That is how Isabel puts it and she adds, in the Sevillian accent we have grown to love, “we make our own style of tasty food”. Hats off to their duck pie, marinated tuna or tartare, the three dishes they rate as the star items on the menu and which are virtually always in stock, while the rest of the offerings are seasonal. Now, for instance, you can taste a marvellous sautéed artichoke with pumpkin, field mushrooms and presa ibérica (Iberian shoulder of pork), highly tender lamb nuggets in sweet potato sauce and the pièce de résistance – a milk torrija (French toast) served with a ball of ice-cream likely to make you shed more than one tear. Average ticket: €20 for two.

Perro Viejo – International Fusion
There just had to be a hipster sanctuary in Seville, and that is Perro Viejo. Located in the heart of the Andalusian capital and inaugurated just two years ago, this stunning, three-storey tapas bar features ultra-cool, ultra-modern, ultra-gorgeous interior design – everything is wood, iron and greenery, clearly inspired by an industrial aesthetic. Here, the tapas are a blend of tradition and international fusion (there are distinct Thai, Japanese and Peruvian influences in their cuisine), with the emphasis on new culinary trends, as evinced in their exquisite Japanese butterfish tataki, pulpo a feira (Galician-style octopus) with migas, organic egg and Iberian broth, glazed pork dumplings with chilli vinaigrette, charcoaled papas bravas (spicy sautéed potatoes) and ceviche (lemon-and-garlic marinade). All of this livened up with a great wine list and, above all, spectacular cocktails. Average ticket: €40 for two.

Book your Vueling to Seville and gear up to savour the best gastrobars in town.

Text by Laia Zieger of Gastronomistas.com

 

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A Route Through the Seville of Don Juan Tenorio

There is one night in the year inevitably associated with witches, horror stories, pumpkins, bonfires and disguises and that it is 31 October, the eve of All Saints. One of the many traditions alive in Spain is the stage performance of Don Juan Tenorio, by the poet, José Zorrilla. The ritual has been performed continuously ever since it made its debut around 1844. While at first glance a romantic drama might seem out of place on a night more suited to The Munsters, there is a reason for it – much of the second act in the play takes place in a cemetery, and many of the protagonists are dead souls who come alive and interact with the lead figure. Chilling, isn’t it?

Don Juan Tenorio’s Seville

Having solved the first mystery, a second issue arises. What connection is there between one of the most popular Juanes in literature and the city of Seville? First, it was here in Seville that José Zorrilla wrote his stage play and where the story is set. Granted, Zorrilla was actually inspired by Tirso de Molina’s The Trickster of Seville and the Stone Guest, written in 1630, which is where the myth of Don Juan stems from. The work ended up seducing such artists as Molière, Mozart, Lord Byron and Espronceda, among others.

A different, entertaining way of touring Seville is to stroll along its streets in search of possible sites featured in that drama, and the spots where tributes to the work are located. Here are some of them:

The Hostería del Laurel (Plaza Venerables 5) is located in the heart of Santa Cruz, one of the most popular districts in Seville. This former boarding house is where José Zorrilla lodged when he wrote Don Juan Tenorio. This, the birthplace of the literary classic, also acted as a source of inspiration for some scenes. Despite the passage of time, it is still worth venturing inside, where some of its historical essence has survived intact.

A few yards from the Hostería del Laurel lies the Plaza de la Alianza, site of the home of Doña Ana de Pantoja, the future wife of Don Luis Mejía, who rivalled Don Juan Tenorio when it came to causing mischief. There is actually a scene in this square where Don Juan tries to wrest his beloved from the grasp of Don Luis.

It is more difficult to find the convent where Doña Inés – one of the main characters in this romantic drama – was confined. The convent belonged to the Order of Calatrava, which is why the habits she wears bear the emblematic red cross of Calatrava. Indeed, a convent once stood in the Calle de Calatrava, which was re-christened thus in honour of the literary work. Following the disentailment it was subsequently demolished, the sole surviving vestige being a chapel which was eventually turned into a warehouse. Easier to locate is the Plaza de Santa Marta, which everyone agrees was the spot where Doña Inés was abducted by our hero.

Still in the beautiful Santa Cruz quarter, we find the Plaza de Doña Elvira, site of the home of Don Gonzalo de Ulloa, the father of Doña Inés, who was staunchly against her alliance with Don Juan.

Concerning the location of Don Juan Tenorio’s house, literary sources cite it as being on the banks of the river Guadalquivir, where he ended up fleeing, although the exact spot is unknown. There is also the real site because, if you’ve done some reading on the subject, the Tenorio family actually existed and tradition places them in the Convent of San Leandro, situated in the square of the same name.

The scene of the final duel, in which Captain Centella kills Don Juan Tenorio, takes place in the present-day Calle Génova, now re-christened the Avenida de la Constitución.

To wind up this tour commemorating the literary classic, you can visit the Plaza de los Refinadores where a statue to Don Juan Tenorio, sculpted by Nicomedes Díaz Piquero, was erected in 1975.

By the way – if you’re in Seville any weekend from 31 October to 15 November, we recommend visiting the San Fernando Cemeterywhere Engranajes Culturales is staging a dramatised visit and performance of the third act of Don Juan Tenorio.

Ready to be a Don Juan in Seville? Secure your Vueling ticket here.

 

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by Víctor Fernández Salinas, Consuelo Ternero, Sandra Vallaure

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Seville Between Rice Paddies and Salt Marshes

The Guadalquivir Salt Marshes

Stretching across a tract of some 2,000 km2 in the river estuary, between Seville, Huelva and Cádiz, they are part of the Doñana National Park, one of Europe’s largest wetlands. It is home to over 100 bird species which are endemic to the ecosystem and create a stunning spectacle whenever they take off into flight. A land where the birds can be imagined playing flamenco, and the red crabs clapping in unison.

The area provides ideal itineraries for what seasoned travellers like best – to wander off on their own. Literally getting lost here, however, is not that difficult, what with hundreds of unmarked footpaths winding between the rice fields.

Seville’s Amazon

Our itinerary starts along the course of the Guadalquivir and its countless effluents branching off near the river mouth, a picture postcard reminiscent of the Amazon. Located here is Isla Mayor, a town of just over 5,000 inhabitants. Surrounded by grasslands and crop fields, the town appears to turn into a genuine island when flooded. For hiking enthusiasts, there are also a number of routes through the town which can be done by bicycle.

Canoeing devotees should make a point of visiting the Brazo de los Jerónimos, a canal thick with reeds and rushes, which makes paddling along it a unique experience.

Going Back In Time

Crossing from one bank of the Guadalquivir to the other can only be done by taking the Coria del Río ferry. This delightful crossing spanning 300 metres in just 3 minutes is reminiscent of some fast-paced American movie set on the Mississippi or in the Everglades. The crossing takes place with passengers jostling for space with cars, tractors, fishermen, goats and farm motorcycles and is an experience in which time seemingly stands still.

A stunning sight to be had from the riverbank is when a merchant or cruise vessel sails inland with the high tide just a few metres away, bound for the port of Seville, or in the direction of the Atlantic. This astonishing, surreal image will remain in your mind’s eye forever.

Having reached Coria, the itinerary takes us downstream as far as Puebla del Río, along the Calle Arrozal, a land trail winding between poplars and carpeted in spring with grass and wild flowers. On this side of the river, you have the chance to visit such towns as Poblado de las Colinas or Utrera.

Finger-licking Cuisine

After a boat ride, it’s time to enjoy some molletes (muffins) ortoast with colorá lard to regain your strength. This is the most traditional breakfast in the area and any bar worth its salt will offer this spread based on pork lard sprinkled with speckles of meat condimented with garlic, red pepper, oregano, bay leaf and other spices. Even Paco de Lucía himself was bowled over by this delight on the senses, to which he dedicated a few notes and chords in some of his more celebrated melodies.

But, the culinary offerings of these Sevillian wetlands go much further still. Indeed, they are as varied as the landscape itself.

If you happen to be here in June, you can attend the Feria y Fiestas del Arroz y del Cangrejo (Fair and Festival of Rice and Crab), which lasts for five days and provides such typical dishes as tomato crab, crab tails with garlic or sauce, pepper shrimps, duck with rice and salted bleaks.

Restaurants like El Tejao, Sevruga or El Estero offer delicious dishes of crab, elvers, duck, giltheads or bass, served up with the inevitable rice, on the banks of the Guadalquivir.

To taste another essential dish in this area, pheasant with rice, head for the Arco de Colina restaurant – their quality and prices will leave you aghast.

Dare to venture into the Guadalquivir salt marshes? Check out your Vueling to Seville here.

Text by Laura Llamas for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

 

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