Brindisi, known as the "Gateway to the East" because formerly strategic port of way for the Roman troops and its proximity to Greece and links with Turkey and Albania, is also the starting point for discovering the beauty of the countryside and small villages of his province, that spread along the coast and inland, in the valley of Itria, a journey that reveals the traces of its past with places full of art and history.

Itria Valley spread the provinces of Bari, Brindisi and Taranto and is known as the land of the Trulli (Valle dei Trulli). It is an ancient circular building with a conical shape and stone deck very characteristics of the area, you'll find scattered throughout the valley, but especially well preserved in places like Alberobello or Locorotondo.

There is an extensive network of green routes perfectly entitled to travel by bicycle and discover the beauty of its vast territory, winding through towns like Ceglie Messapica, Mesagne, Ostuni, San Vito dei Normans or Francavilla Fontana.

Brindisi

Brindisi has a great promenade but if you get into its narrow streets, you will discover its beautiful historical center that keeps many surprises, like many churches, Roman monuments and palaces. In Brindisi ends Via Appia, which was the most important road of ancient Rome. The 'Regina Viarum "connected Rome with Capua with its 530 km long, extending from the Porta Sebastiano of Rome to Brindisi, where two columns indicated its end point (nowadays only one of them is preserved). It was ordered to built in 312 BC by the censor Appius Claudius Caecus.

The white city of Ostuni

Called the White City for its picturesque whitewashed houses, Ostuni stands with all its beauty on three hills, giving it the appearance of an ancient Greek city. The city center is enclosed among Aragonese walls that remain from the original fifteen and the defenses surrounding the medieval city. Inside the fortress, there is a fascinating maze of narrow streets that lead to small squares and tangled alleys and stairs leading to the top, where we find the majestic Cathedral, and from where we can admire amazing views of olive trees plains.

Cisternino

On one of the terraces Mugia there is one of the jewels of Italy; Cisternino is one of the most beautiful towns in Italy. Cisternino, the capital of the Itria Valley, has received one orange flag thanks for the preservation of its historical city center. It is delicious to walk among the palaces of Amatialacio and Capece, the tower Normanda or severals ancient churches. Porches, white houses with flowered balconies, narrow alleyways, patios and stairs make the stroll through this delightful old village.

Natural Reserve of Torre Guaceto

The marine protected area and nature reserve of Torre Guaceto is just under 30 miles from Brindisi. Fortunately, this area has remained virtually untouched, apart from the wild constructions that have flooded other parts of the coast. This small oasis of tranquility allows cycling on the roads of scrub and olive trees, diving to admire the beauty of its coral reefs and seabed vegetation or simply enjoy its sandy beaches and crystal clear waters.

Grottoes of Castellana

A walk of about two hours into the depths of this underground world, which runs between stalactites and stalagmites, and that takes you to the White Grotto, a beautiful cave with limestone formations reflected in the underground lake creating a visual spectacle indescribable.

Cisternino by Kiuz | Grottoes of Castellana by tango7174 | Ostuni by Dronkitmaster | Torre Guaceto by Yoruno | Trulli by yellow.cat

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Among the many charms of Spain’s capital, the quarter known as the Madrid of the Austrias is one of the most exciting areas in the city. The irregular layout in this section of Madrid’s historic district dates from the 16th and 17th century. It was the setting for duels and intrigues, and a privileged witness to the passage of the Habsburg dynasty through the city. Indeed, it was the Habsburgs or Austrias who chose Madrid to be the capital of their empire and they had it embellished to reflect that status.

Plaza Mayor and Environs

The Plaza Mayor is the main precinct to be built by the Austrias in Madrid and, as such, the perfect spot to start our itinerary. Full of atmosphere and thronging with people, it is one of Europe’s most beautiful squares. The project designer was Juan de Herrera, commissioned by Philip II, although it was during the reign of Philip III that it acquired something like its current appearance. I say “something like” because it was gutted by fire in 1790 and had to be restored to a design by Juan de Villanueva. Sited on one side of the square is the Casa de la Panadería, dating from 1590, the first building to go up in the precinct. In the centre of the square stands the equestrian statue of Philip III, by Giambologna and Pietro Tacca.

Emerging from the square along Calle Gerona, opposite us stands the opulent Santa Cruz Palace, in the Plaza de las Provincias, which originally served as a royal prison. Built in Herrerian style as of 1629, in 1791 it also sustained fire damage and was likewise restored under the direction of Villanueva. However, some of its original features were retained, notably the main entrance portal, the twin towers flanking the facade and the large, central coast-of-arms. Since 1938 it has been the seat of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs.

In the same square stands a replica of the 17th-century Fuente de Orfeo (Orpheus Fountain) – the original is housed in the National Archaeological Museum. Continuing along Calle de la Fresa as far as Calle Postas, we come to the Posada del Peine, one of the oldest hostel facilities in Spain, founded in 1610.

Calle Arenal and Plaza de Oriente

From here we walk into Calle del Arenal, site of the popular, 17th-century Church of San Ginés which houses a large number of artworks. Nearby stands the legendary San Ginés Chocolate Factory, dating from 1894, a favourite among Madrilenians for having chocolate con churros.

The area between Calle Arenal and Gran Vía contains a network of streets which are the site of a  number of well-preserved monasteries, including the Monastery of the Descalzas Reales and the Convent of the Encarnación.

Further along Calle Arenal we come to the Plaza de Isabel II, formerly known as the Caños del Peral, with its spectacular Teatro Real facade. The square was important at the time of the Austrias as standing in its centre was one of the city’s major fountains. The remains of this fountain can still be seen by going down into the Ópera metro station.

Going around the Teatro Real we come to the Plaza de Oriente, home to the Royal Palace, which stands on the former site of the Habsburg citadel, known as the Alcázar. South of the Plaza de Oriente lies the Plaza de Ramales, once the site of the Church of St John the Baptist, where Diego Velázquez was buried. Oddly enough, various searches were conducted to find his bones. They were never found, but are still believed to be somewhere in the square.

Heading down Calle San Nicolás, we emerge into one of the oldest parts of the quarter, featuring the church of St Nicholas of Bari, the oldest church in Madrid. Turning back towards Calle Mayor, we come across the Palace of the Dukes of Uceda, a majestic 17th-century residence. Next door stands the Church of El Sacramento, which was financed by the Duke of Uceda in 1616.

Back in the Plaza Mayor, a must-visit landmark is the Arco de Cuchilleros, a traditional arcade lined with mesones and home to the famous restaurant, Casa Botín which, founded in 1725, has the honour of being the oldest restaurant in the world. The Arco de Cuchilleros was built by Juan Gómez de Mora in 1619 to offset the split level between the square and the Cava de San Miguel. This building, which is three storeys higher than the rest of the ensemble, was for centuries the tallest construction in Madrid. Behind the Cava de San Miguel lies the San Miguel Market, a favourite among Madrilenians when they go out to eat top-quality tapas. Near the market stands the Plaza de la Villa, one of the most emblematic Habsburg squares in the city on account of three unique buildings – the Casa de la Villa – the former City Hall – the House and Tower of Los Lujanes and the Casa de Cisneros.

Be sure to visit the Austrias’ Madrid – book your Vueling here.

Text by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Bari is the cradle of Italy’s finest cuisine. The vera (true) cradle, that is. Any local will tell you so, as will any northerner, well aware of the excellence of the produce bathed by the Adriatic. If you think the food is good everywhere in Italy, wait till you sink your teeth into a dish in this southern enclave.

Street Food – From Focaccia to Sgagliozze

Bari’s old town is the best showcase for street food. Starting with the open-air Mercato del Pesce (Fish Market), where fishermen display their wares every day. Very fresh, clean and raw is how the locals purchase their fish, to eat it right there if necessary. With a Peroni birra in hand, of course. Your gaze will be riveted by the sea urchins, squid and octopus which they have just thrashed on the nearby jetty. The helpings are generous for the price.

Around the Basilica di San Nicola, the thing to do is order a focaccia in the historic Fiore bakery before strolling down the alleyways. Many of the local housewives make and then dry the various types of craft pasta in the open air. It’s a privilege to see them tirelessly kneading the pasta dough and shaping it.

In the so-called strada della pasta (street of pasta) you will come across the Caputo Rino family cooking anything that goes past. The family members are as genuine as the dishes they prepare. You will be entranced by their natural demeanour and will inevitably take a seat at one of their tables, as long as you have booked beforehand. If you want to visit the most amazing spots, allow yourself to be guided by the people at Velo Service, who can drive you from one place to another and save you from getting tired.

At dusk it is the turn of the sgagliozze street stalls to come alive. This fried polenta dish is also an icon of Bari, as are the panzerotti or fried sandwiches stuffed with local cheese and tomato. And, if you fancy hitting the town, then while away the wee hours in the bars and have one of the croissants served only at daybreak in the Piazza Mercantile before hitting the hay. Although, when it comes to good snacks and confectionery, try the ones at Martinucci, where the coffee is also great.

Indulge, too, in the ice-creams at Gentile, alongside the Norman-Swabian castle – they are fleeting but delicious. In season, have a go at the zeppole, based on a traditional Apulia confectionery, or the classic pistachio and Nutella.

And, be sure to stop at the grocer shops in the inner city where you will find local sausage. Go in and have a taste, and then take some with you as a souvenir.

Signature Cuisine From the Local Larder

Bari’s restaurants know how to get the most out of their local produce, without charging anything exorbitant. We can highly recommend Giampaolo for their lavish slew of seafood and fresh fish, as well as their pizzas and homemade desserts.

It’s worth getting out of the city to taste signature cuisine as a counterpoint to the traditional fare. The closest venue is Umami Ristorante, located in a country house near the main road. You will be pleasantly surprised at their wholesome offerings. A plethora of nicely presented local produce.

More remote and undoubtedly the boldest restaurant is Giuseppe Iannotti’s one-star Michelin Krèsios. You will be blown away by their tasting menu, an embellishment of the landscape and the Italian larder in a grand repertoire of sensations, paired with excellent items from their wine cellar. To top off the experience, stay over for the night in one of the rooms surrounded by vineyards.

Furtive Night Cuisine

At Bari’s only clandestine bar you can opt either for their cocktails or for a set of tapas based on snacks and savoury cupcakes. The bar counter is in one building, and the tables in the one next door. So you should check out in advance whether you can also have a bite to eat or have to make do with a drink. The venue is located in a secluded street near the harbour and its name – Speakeasy – is only uttered sotto voce – that is, in hushed tones.

Where to Sleep

Hotel Imago. A boutique hotel with just a few rooms set between the old quarter and the more modern districts. Apart from the optimum level of bustle, it is located in the heart of the shopping district and is very well connected. The rooms are spacious, the furniture functional, breakfast is continental and the wi-fi free-of-charge. 

Now that you know how to eat Bari up, book your Vueling and enjoy it!

Text and photos by Belén Parra for Gastronomistas