One legend has it that the Breton saint St. Ferreol founded the city after landing there in a boat escorted by a choir of seven mermaids, but scholars still cannot agree on the origin of the name the city has been called since Medieval times.

History

The first people to settle in the area were Celts. And there is evidence of Phoenician and ancient Greek settlements, too. When the Romans conquered Hispania in the first century BC, a fishing village stood on the site of today’s city. Soon the locals began exporting preserved fish to the rest of the Roman Empire. The name “Ferrol” first appeared in church records in the year 1087, referring to a donation made by villagers to the nearby monastery of San Martín de Jubia.

From La Coruña

Ferrol has easy access to La Coruña, only 40 minutes’ distant --via a very scenic stretch of the AP-9 motorway, crossing the Eume river and others-- and to other towns in northern Galicia such as Villalba, Naró, and Ortigueira. You’ll see hills and extensive green meadowland crisscrossed by streamlets, along with panoramic views of the sea. You may wish to stop along the way at the Parque Natural Fragas do Eume, where you can admire Europe’s best-conserved Atlantic coastal woodlands, some 9,000 hectares of virgin forest. The triangular park, lying between the towns of As Pontes, Pontedeume and Monfero, will show you that “enchanted forest” isn’t just a figure of speech –you will expect to see elves and wood sprites frolicking amongst the ferns and lichens, and the springs and waterfalls, all under the leafy canopy of ash, alder, oak, and poplar trees, which the sun’s rays have difficulty penetrating in some spots. You might also visit the equally enchanting  Caaveiro monastery, dating from the year 934, and which overlooks the forest.

A Stroll through the Magdalena District

Ferrol’s urban essence is concentrated in the old quarter, the Barrio de la Magdalena, a commercial and entertainment district featuring such Belle Époque jewels as the 1892 Jofre Theatre, the Magdalena Market, the 1923 fish market building called “La Pescadería”, the Casino Ferrolano (also erected in 1923), the Hotel Suizo (1916), and the Banco Hispano-Antigua Fonda Suiza (1909-1910). The rationalist, geometrically laid out district resembles Barcelona’s Ensanche, and at its extremes lie two broad squares, the Plaza de Amboage or, more properly, del Marqués de Amboage, and the Plaza de Armas). There are numerous 18^th C. and 19^th C. homes with fancy wrought-iron balcony railings on stone corbels and white, wood-framed glass-enclosed balconies, as well and modernist buildings from the early 20^th C. The whole neighbourhood was designated as a protected cultural treasure in 1983. The main shopping streets are Real, Magdalena, Igrexa, Dolores, Galiano, and María. For tapas, drinks, and sit-down meals the calle del Sol is the place to go.

A Fortified City

Well worth visiting are the fortifications, whose construction began in the reign of Phillip II (b. 1527 d. 1598) that protected the city against attacks from the sea, including the  San Felipe Castle, and the Arsenal, a unique building now housing the Naval Museum.  It connects to the Magdalena neighbourhood via the ornate, neo-classical 1765 gateway known as the Porta do Dique.

The Spanish Armada

Ferrol has an important naval base and large military and civilian shipyards. Since the 15^th it has been a key military installation, particularly during the heyday of the Spanish Empire, the first on which “the sun never set” –the Spanish Armada has both the discovery of America and the first circumnavigation of the world to its credit. Sea dogs, history buffs, and landscape lovers alike will find much to rave about in Ferrol. Perhaps you should book a flight to La Coruña with Vueling a take a closer look? Check out or flights here.

Report by Isabel y Luis Comunicación

Pictures by Juan Balsa, Diputación de A Coruña y Concello de Ferrol

One of the things that struck us most about Palma is the marked presence of art, and not only in art galleries. We saw sculptures scattered about everywhere so, take note – when you’re strolling around streets and parks, you’re likely to bump into works by such renowned artists as Chillida (at the end of the Rambla), Calder (S’Hort del Rei) or Oppenheim (his “Upside Down Church”, located in the Porta de Santa Catalina, is amazing).

But, king of them all, as far as art is concerned, is undoubtedly Joan Miró. The Catalan artist had strong ties to Palma. He spent the last 27 years of his life on the island of Majorca, where he produced one third of his entire oeuvre. Indeed, you can still feel his presence in Palma, 34 years after his death. And, in many instances, we came across creations of his incorporated into modern architectural ensembles, as in Es Baluard, The Pilar i Joan Miró Foundation and the Parc de la Mar. We spent a weekend in Palma, hot on the heels of Miró and, truth be told, we were fascinated by his vast production, still very much in evidence in the Balearic capital.

Miró – Over 50K Followers A Year

When it comes to this great artist, the paramount landmark here is clearly the Pilar i Joan Miró Foundation, which receives more than fifty thousand visitors each year. The venue is unique in that you feel enveloped by Joan Miró’s creative atmosphere, set up by the exhibits, workshops and a natural environment full of inspiration. Miró will also go down in history for his collaborative endeavours with such eminent architects as Josep Lluís Sert, a member of the second generation of architects in the so-called Modern Catalan Movement. Miró coincided with the exiled Sert in Paris after the Spanish Civil War. In 1956, he settled in Majorca, specifically at Son Abrines, where he was fortunate enough to have a magnificent studio designed by his good friend, Sert. The current Foundation building was designed by Rafael Moneo.

The other venue where visitors can enjoy the work of this artistic genius is Es Baluard, Palma’s Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art. On display there are works by the leading artists and movements that converged – and continue to do so – in the Balearic Islands, from the beginning of the 20th century until the present. Their offerings are exhibited in relation to other domestic and international art contexts.

The building, designed by Lluís García-Ruiz, Jaume García-Ruiz, Vicente Tomás and Angel Sánchez Cantalejo, is set on three floors which interact with one another, as well as with the exterior and the city walls, by means of ramps, skylights and large interior balconies, articulated by way of an indoor street complex. But, what most caught our eye was the way the exterior spaces are conceptualised as exhibition areas and walkways via a spectacular path leading along the walled perimeter. The large cistern has also been retained as both an exhibition space and an area for staging activities.

Miró Takes the Laurels in Palma

However, Miró’s presence goes further still. On a stroll through Palma you may come across three creations by the master of the avant-gardes – two sculptures (one on the Avenida Jaume III, near Passeig Mallorca, and the other at the foot of the Royal Palace of the Almudaina) and a mosaic (Parc del Mar). You can also admire two of his works in the Juan March Museum Foundation, namely “Peinture (Femme, Tige, Coeur)” and “Le Perroquet”, both from the interwar period. The Museum is a must-visit if you’re eager to take the pulse of contemporary Spanish art, and is located in an amazing 17th-century palace at number 11 Calle Sant Miquel. Lastly, just 200 metres away stands the Hotel Joan Miró, the only hotel themed around the celebrated contemporary artist, with its rooms and other areas inspired by his work. It also boasts 28 original works by Joan Miró displayed at different spots around the hotel.

Creativity Spreading To Other Disciplines

The omnipresence of art in the city means creativity tends to be everywhere. Even in holy sites, as in the Cathedral, adorned as it is by the creations of modern and contemporary artists, notably Gaudí (Modernist baldachin and pulpit) and Barceló (Chapel of the Most Holy). Design wins out handsomely from this creative urge – a host of studios have sprung up throughout the historic centre, and hotels, too, have jumped on the bandwagon. We can recommend the Nakar Hotel, a member of the select international network of Design Hotels, located on Avenida Jaume III, the city’s major shopping hub, and very near Passeig Mallorca, a strategic area on account of its proximity to the Santa Catalina quarter. Its interior concept and design is the work of Majorcan designer Marta Rotger, who opted for a sober, rationalistic style in its lines and forms. The hotel’s other claim to fame is its CUIT Restaurant, located on the 8th floor, affording spectacular views over all of Palma de Mallorca. And the food is divine, too! Their chef, Miguel Calent, is running on a high and his creations are based on the Majorcan culinary tradition with Mediterranean influences, filtered – we might add – by renewal.

Gear up and steep yourself in the brilliant universe of Joan Miró in Palma de Mallorca. Check out our flights here.

Text and images by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

We embarked once more on a trip with the Mondo Sonoro crew of journalists. This time we decided to investigate Bristol’s music scene, highly active as of the late 1970s, during the heyday of punk. However, it was in the early 90s that music in this port city of southern England riveted world attention, as it was there that one of the defining genres of the late 20th century was born, evolved and, they say, died – Trip Hop. But things did not stop at that. Shortly afterwards, Bristol challenged London as the cradle of drum’n’bass, while today it is dubstep that has earned it a top spot among avant-garde electronic music. As well, it continues to be a haven for all kinds of live music. So, we headed for Bristol with a fistful of question marks; perhaps too many to be answered in a space of just 48 hours. Here’s what the experience yielded.

Bristol lies just 48 minutes from Cardiff by train, a short ride which you can use to go over the lineups of the countless clubs and concert halls that liven up the night of a city with little over 400,000 inhabitants.

Bristol was England’s busiest port for several decades. The city once flourished as a trading post, garnering its wealth from the distribution of wine, tobacco and, in the 17th century, slaves, too. Not for nothing was the home of pirate Long John Silver, of Treasure Island fame, located here. In World War II, the importance of its docks and aeronautical industry made it a target for terrible aerial bombardments. The harbour area has come into its own again recently as a result of an ambitious urban renewal plan, completed in 2008, which paved the way for one of the most popular promenades – Harbourside. The area, which has been totally remodelled, features leisure and hospitality areas, as well as an open-air flea market crammed with second-hand books and records, in addition to craftwork, confectionery and even craft beer.

Also sited there is the Bristol Tourist Information Centre, an inexhaustible source of information, where we learned that here too are the headquarters of Aardman Animations, the studio where the Oscar-winning Plasticine figures of Wallace & Gromit were created. This is also the birthplace of Cary Grant, a star of Hollywood’s early period who continues to be celebrated in the form of a festival bearing the name of this perennial Hitchcock actor. Another titbit – the writer, JK Rowling, Harry Potter’s mater, lived in the city’s environs until her adolescence. However, our most prized acquisition in the Tourist Office was a street plan for locating a host of works scattered about the city by someone who is probably the most popular local celebrity, even though his identity remains a mystery. I am talking about Banksy, Bristol’s favourite son, although not all the city councils would refer to him in such terms.

However, before setting out on a photo safari around the city walls, it might be an idea to first explore it from the river that traverses and connects it to the sea. Several companies organise boat tours, including Bristol Ferry Boats, The Bristol Packet and The Matthew. The latter offers rides lasting up to four hours, during which you can enjoy the classic Fish & Chips or a Cream Tea – milk tea with scones and jam and cream.

Still in the neighbourhood, we were tempted to visit At-Bristol, which combines an interactive science centre with a planetarium, but there are many cultural enclaves worth exploring. First we headed for the nearby area of theatres and dropped in on the Bristol Hippodrome, which focuses on great musicals, notably one dedicated to the “Million Dollar Quartet” (Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee Lewis, Carl Perkins and Elvis Presley), where the legendary producer, Sam Phillips, is played no less than by the ex-pop star Jason Donovan! Around there we came across a number of tapas bars, attesting to a marked increase in Spanish emigration, including El Puerto and La Tomatina, the latter located next to the first Banksy we were able to enjoy, the hilarious “Well Hung Lover” on Park Street, a steep commercial thoroughfare which is a must for picking up bargains. Our hotel was near there, in the historical Old City, so we still had time to wander through St Nicholas Market, a charming covered market, like a bazaar with glass ceilings. We also made for St Peter’s Church, an evocative ruined church at the top of Castle Park, on a stretch of the river bordering the Broadme addistrict, the city’s commercial centre. Further north lies Bearpit, an unusual square sunk between a junction of trunk roads that swerve around pedestrian tunnels plastered with posters announcing musical performances and street art exhibitions. We were taken aback by a number of graffiti paying tribute to the tragedy of the 43 missing Mexican “normalistas”. There were also skate ramps, a space for performances of all kinds and even a typical double-decker London bus converted into a food truck serving Mexican dishes.

On this note we wind up the first part of our intense and interesting visit to Bristol. In the second part we delve into the area where most of the clubs are concentrated. We also talked to Euan Dickson, sound engineer of Massive Attack, one of the seminal bands in the city’s music scene. Get going and discover the sounds of Bristol – check out our flights here.

Text by Mondo Sonoro and Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

This, the first part of the post focuses on the rich music scene in the Icelandic capital. As we shall see, it is an enchanting, visitor-friendly city, full of contrasts.

To some extent, if you’ve only seen Reykjavik, you haven’t really seen Iceland. What you have seen, though, is its openness to the world, its warmer, more friendly side, making you feel comfortable despite being thousands of kilometres from home. For, once you leave the welcoming streets in Reykjavik’s city centre, the distances between built-up areas grow exponentially, with population centres distributed like in the United States. Reykjavik itself is the largest city on the island, with a population of 130,000 inhabitants – 215,000 if you include its surrounding areas. Once you leave the limits of Reykjavik, nature rules, but that is another story we will deal with some other time.

While the freezing winter temperatures preclude the sort of sightseeing we Mediterraneans are fond of, a visit to Reykjavik in spring, summer and early autumn can be a fantastic experience. In early October, temperatures in the city are still bearable for Spanish tourists, ranging from a minimum of two degrees to a maximum of ten. Well, that’s cold, but not untowardly so. With that in mind, and given the scarce sunlight hours, you will feel like walking up and down the street and peeking into the shop windows ranged one after the other in the city centre. Craft stores, fashion stores and boutiques with a huge variety of apparel. Those selling jerseys with colourful, handmade patterns come highly recommended. Then there are the restaurants, musical bars, art galleries and even record shops, making downtown Reykjavik a large business emporium, although worlds apart from the crowding of the large European city centres. Here, everything is carefully thought out, but endearingly so – shops all have their own personality and service is warm and friendly. You won’t be overwhelmed by ghetto-blasting piped music, endless queues or intrusive, frenzied marketing campaigns.

When you’re ready to grab a bite, your options range from strong-tasting local fare to Italian-style pizzas, like those served up at Primo Ristorante, while appetising Nordic- and Slavic-style soups are also much in vogue – be sure to visit Svarta Kaffi, at Laugavegur 54, where the soup is served in bread. Also worth trying are the hot dogs at Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur (Tryggvagata 1), a street stall where, according to George Clinton, they make the best hot dogs in the world. And, don’t worry about the service. Apart from the fact that you can come across people of various nationalities – among them, quite a few Spaniards – Icelanders are friendly yet discreet people. And, don’t be surprised if the waiters or waitresses seem very young by Spanish standards. While work may be considered ennobling, in Iceland they appear to have learned this earlier than in other European countries.

For those who don’t fancy walking about, Reykjavik has several bus lines covering the city centre and surrounding areas.

A trip to Iceland could start in the streets of Reykjavik and then strike out necessarily across the island, one of the most beautiful in the world for those seeking tranquility, a magical atmosphere and nature in the raw. In the city, buildings are painted in various colours, so you can come across one with blue walls adjoining another in stately white, tainted by the passage of time. In the wild, the white of snow and ice, the bright green of the vegetation, volcanic greys and browns and the one thousand and one hues of freely flowing waters combine to create a colour palette which underscores the majesty of this land’s natural surroundings, which Icelanders have long protected, a sentiment deep-seated in their hearts.

While your first port of call may be the city, you should also consider taking the chance to venture out into Iceland’s wild, free interior. To go no further, Reykjavik harbour provides numerous options of three- to five-hour boat rides to go whale-spotting. The idea is to observe various types of whales swimming freely in the cold Arctic waters; whales of different sizes, as well as an amazing variety of dolphins. But, don’t get your hopes up too fast – the animals aren’t just out there waiting for you to come along. It’s up to the gods of the sea whether you will be lucky enough to spot them, or whether your trip will be successful. Indeed, you are more likely to get the desired results by going on an outing to the areas where those “little Atlantic friars” the puffins live and nest. Some eight to ten million puffins are believed to inhabit the territory.

But, there is a lot more to do in a city like Reykjavik. From there you can watch the fantastic northern lights and, if you are lucky, you will coincide with one of the few occasions when the city lights are switched off to enhance everyone’s viewing experience of this natural wonder. You could also visit Hallgrímskirkja Church – with grey tones on the outside, and striking forms and interior spaces – or have a dip in the warm waters of any number of thermal baths, both in the city and outside it.

Our next post will focus on one of the most prolific and interesting music scenes on the planet. Fire up and discover the world’s northernmost capital – check out our flights here.

Text by Joan S. Luna (Mondo Sonoro)

Images by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS