Vibrant Nature, a Stone’s Throw from Santander
The Picos de Europa National Park was Spain’s first protected nature reserve. Situated in the centre of the Cordillera Cantábrica range, it is now a listed by UNESCO as a biosphere reserve and is undoubtedly one of the loveliest spots in all Spain. The area offers an endless variety of activities, notably a visit to the Virgen de la Salud sanctuary where a traditional shrine festival is held every year. It is attended by large numbers of shrine pilgrims from the Lebaniega district. Other destinations include an outing to the Cabaña Verónica, or to Las Manforas mines. We have to limit our scope, so we shall propose just two readily accessible routes to give you time to enjoy these wonderful landscapes. And, the best thing about it is that this paradise getaway is just over an hour’s journey from Santander.
The Road to Espinama – Accessing the Central Massif
The trail starts at the Hotel Áliva, some 4 km from the upper level of the Fuente Dé cableway. From there, you take the Montaña footpath which leads down on the left. On your way down, you will come to a turning on the left which leads to Sostres, followed by a turn-off to the Ermita de la Salud. The path winds down into the Nevandi river valley, which acts as a boundary between the Macizo Oriental and Macizo Central (Eastern and Central Massifs). You then come to the Invernales de Igüedri, where you catch a glimpse of the southern arête of the Pico Valdecoro (1,841 m). You will recognise the invernales because in the centre is a large concentration of stone barns dotting the southwestern slopes of Castro Cogollos.
The trail ends in the streets of Espinama. In all, the descent starts at an altitude of 1,600 metres and ends at the 900-metre level. After leaving behind the most rugged landscape, the mountain pass and meadows for summer grazing come into view. You finally reach Espinama, in the municipality and valley of Camaleño, one of the major points of access to the Central Massif of the Picos de Europa. This trail is a pleasure on the senses – you will not require a filter for any of your pictures.
Recommendations:
This trail is very easy, although the descent is abrupt and can take its toll on one’s knees. The worst part is having to make the 3.5 kilometre stretch from Espinama to Fuente Dé, if you’ve parked your car there. A good remedy is to take one of the mountain taxis in Espinama.
Start: Hotel Áliva
Destination: Espinama
Duration: 2 hours 30 min.
Difficulty: low
All ages
Rendezvous with History in Mogrovejo
Mogrovejo is well worth the visit. The village has an intense history and is designated as a Historic Rural Complex, said to be among the best preserved in all Liébana. It is also claimed to be the birthplace of St Turibius, the relic bearer, Bishop of Astorga, Lord of Mogrovejo and Don Pelayo’s deputy. And of another St Turibius, from the 16th century, who became Bishop of Lima. A tower in the village overlooks the valley and is flanked by the Picos. The illustrious Toledan poet, Garcilaso de la Vega, a luminary of Spain’s Golden Age, also descends from the house of Laso de la Vega there.
This trail also starts at the Hotel Áliva. You take the path down to Espinama as far as the Portillas del Boquejón, where you come to the third turn-off on the left. If you follow that path, you come to Pembes, where the Virgen de la Salud is paraded in winter. If you take the other turning on the left, you come to Llaves, providing access to another trail leading to Mogrovejo.
This route affords splendid views of the Puertos de Río Cubo (Cosgaya) and the Puertos de Espinama, where the livestock that grazes on the Áliva mountain passes is led in late July.
Start: Hotel Áliva
Destination: Mogrovejo
Duration: 2 hours 30 min.
Difficulty: low
All ages
Hotel Áliva
Hotel Áliva, located on the upper level of the Fuente Dé cableway, in the heart of the Picos de Europa National Park, is a family hotel surrounded by mountains, meadows and captivating scenery. It is framed by the lofty Picos de Europa mountains which will leave no one impassive. The silence, broken only by the clinking of the bells worn by livestock grazing nearby, makes for a pleasurable stay, if what you’re seeking is to switch off and relax. The location is also ideal for going on excursions into the Park.
It also has a restaurant featuring the stews so typical of Cantabrian cuisine and locally sourced meat, making for a great meal to round off a day in the wild. The menu is based on carefully prepared dishes made with local produce from the Liébana district.
The hotel is the ideal place for switching off and soaking up the peacefulness of the mountainside. Hikers have an endless choice of trails around the hotel. It has a capacity of 70 in rooms sleeping two, four and even six guests. Telephone: 942 730 999 (From 8 a.m. to 12 p.m.).
Why wait to indulge in these natural surroundings? Check out our flights to Santander here.
Text and images by Turismo de Cantabria
more infoThe Esmorçaret Route in Valencia
Any traveller stopping over at the city on the river Túria has their sightseeing venues cut out for them – The City of Arts and Sciences, The Cathedral, El Miguelete, The Silk Exchange, The Central Market, Torres de Serrano, Torres de Quart, The Port, The Bioparc – if you have kids in tow – and, of course, The Albufera. Needless to say, all this should be accompanied by a good paella for lunch, and an horchata for afternoon tea.
But, Valencia is a lot more than this. Indeed, locals delight in a practice which is almost a religion – what is known here as the esmorçaret, a mid-morning sandwich with freshly baked bread, accompanied by a dish of olives or nuts, a beer and coffee… all for less than five euros.
Here is a our recommendation of 8 must-visit bars where you will gradually become adepts of that healthy practice which is usually indulged in between ten and twelve o’clock in the morning.
For Omelette Lovers
Bar Alhambra. Every day Benito, the owner of this small bar in the Juan Llorens area, prepares an average of six, two-and-a-half-kilo omelettes. The main kind is the potato omelette, but you can also choose between potato and onion, as well as potato and spring garlic, potato and sobrasada, (a spicy, pork sausage) and potato and morcilla (blood sausage),among others. Another of their finger-licking specialities is the apaleao (dry-cured pork loin).
Bar Rojas Clemente. Hidden in one of the city’s smallest markets, its bar counter provides a spectacle of myriad types of omelette, scrambled eggs, sausage and savoury pies, a local classic. Be sure to try the goat’s-milk cheese, candied-tomato and spinach omelette.
Under the Valencian Sun
Kiosco La Pérgola. Located in the tranquil, sought-after Paseo de la Alameda, this is one of the city’s classic venues, both for its food and sunny terrace. The “bombón” is the star bite – with pork loin, mushrooms, cheese and a special sauce. You can also elect to order the sandwich with just mushrooms, or with grouper or liver, which in La Pérgola is a whole delicacy.
Size Rules
Bodega La Pascuala. All the rage among elevenses devotees, this venue is located in the seafaring quarter of El Cabañal, just a stone’s throw from La Malvarrosa Beach. Their star performer is the “Súper”, an oversize sandwich comprising a whole stick of bread, with horse meat, onion, bacon, cheese and typical Catalan tomato bread. The peanuts and olives are on the house.
Michelin-Starred Brunch
Central Bar. A Michelin-starred elevenses is also doable. Run by the acclaimed chef, Ricard Camarena, this bar is in the amazing Central Market in El Carmen District, the city’s historic centre. The star sandwich is named after Ricard Camarena himself and features pork fillet, onion, cheese and mustard – a festival of flavours!
A Classic – Calamari Sandwich
Casa Mundo. Founded in 1953 by a football player and Valencia CF’s greatest ever goal-scorer, Edmundo Suárez “Mundo”, this bar in the city centre has held out admirably against the invasion of franchises. Noteworthy is their famous calamari sandwich, but also the blanco y negro (black and white) with broad beans, as well as the chivito (steakburger) and pepito de pisto (ratatouille meat sandwich), which has been made to the same recipe for over 50 years.
La Piulà. A wealth of sandwiches with juicy, crisp, homemade batter-fried calamari. The optional condiment is a mild mayonnaise. Also well worth trying is their ciclista, made of ham, omelette and tomato as the main ingredients.
Hidden in the Historic City
Tasca Ángel. The last stop on our route is a secluded venue near the Mercat Central (Central Market), a few metres away from La Lonja (Silk Exchange). This bar features what are possibly the best sardines in town – their great draw and speciality – but they have other delicacies worth trying, too. From griddled vegetables to tapas you’d be hard put to find elsewhere, notably the riñoncitos (kidneys) and lleterola (gizzard), a favourite in the Horta Valenciana rural district. Oh, and don’t pass up theirajo arriero(salt cod, potato and garlic paste).
Check out your Vueling here and join the culture of the “esmorçaret”.
Text by Laura Llamas for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
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The Lavender Route
We are poised on the cusp of June when lavender, Provence’s most iconic plant, starts coming into blossom. Scattered all about the region, from June to August the fields become awash with an unmistakeable purple hue which will linger in your mind for some time after a sojourn in this land. Indeed, embarking on the lavender route is one of the best ways of touring this priceless French region, dotted with charming villages which exude that je ne sais quoi you will find absolutely captivating, beckoning you back year after year. Not for nothing were artists of the calibre of Van Gogh, Cézanne and Picasso fascinated by the light – that light ! – as well as by the charm emanating from the landscapes of Provence, which they set about immortalising in their works.
Picture Postcard Villages
The Vaucluse is the area of Provence with the highest concentration of lavender farms. There you will encounter vast fields filled with this aromatic plant, ideal for taking the snap that will earn your Instagram post a host of “likes”. You will also come across myriad charming villages which you are advised to venture into and stroll around. Gordes,which clings to a hillside, has become something of a magnet for the well-heeled of late, featuring upscale restaurants and hotels that contrast starkly with the rural calling of the surrounding area. Another village just waiting to be framed is Roussillon, where house fronts are painted in all possible shades of ochre, forming a harmonious ensemble. Bonnieux, which is one of our favourites, boasts large stone houses and a church at the top of the village commanding stunning views of the surroundings. Les Baux de Provence is another classic in the area. Its major landmark is its ruined castle, while the village is renowned as a venue for a troubadour song festival.
Must-Do Excursions
Apart from picturesque villages, a tour of Provence will reveal such gems as the 12th-century Sénanque Abbey, whose monks grow lavender – could it be otherwise? The idyllic image of the abbey features in practically all guides of the area. An interesting visit near Gordes is Village des Bories, an open-air area with around twenty restored bories, a unique type of stone hut made of limestone. If you’re a nature lover, be sure to head for the environs of Rustrel where, in a spot known as the French Colorado, erosion has carved out an unusual landscape dominated by ochre tones.
Provençal Markets – Tastes of Proximity
Find out in advance which days of the week markets are scheduled for in the various towns and villages you are likely to pass through, as they are the perfect excuse for getting to taste the flavours of each area, in addition to being the days on which the atmosphere is liveliest. Be sure to stock up on delicious craft cheeses and a fresh baguette, and seek out a pleasant spot to savour them. Wash it all down with a fine wine from the region – Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a great option – and a hearty tuck-in is guaranteed.
De Luxe Cuisine
Gastronomy is one of the fortes of this route. We can assure you that, wherever you go in Provence, you will find good food, although prices are a little on the dear side. We can also guarantee you will always be able to eat your fill, as helpings tend to be generous. Suffice to behold the size of their delicious, expertly dressed salads to realise that you’ll end up feeling anything but peckish. Bear in mind that the region does attract lots of tourists in the high season, so it’s worth booking a table in advance, particularly for dinner. Black truffle devotees should drop in on Chez Serge, located in Carpentras, where you can go to town on their dishes based on that aromatic fungus. And, among the unusual delicacies you can get to savour in Provence is homemade lavender ice-cream, occasionally served up for dinner at Château de la Gabelle.
A Lavender Souvenir
One thing that catches one’s attention when visiting Provence is the sheer number of products incorporating this pretty flower with its unmistakeable scent. No wonder, then, that Provence accounts for 80% of the world’s lavender production. You are sure to end up buying some lavender souvenir, from the classic ornamental bouquet to sachets for keeping in wardrobes, honey, sweets, soaps and all kinds of toiletries.
Book your Vueling to Marseille and strike out on a tour of Provence at its moment of maximum splendour.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
more infoA Natural Hike Through Asturias – From Reserve to Reserve
If there’s one striking thing about Asturias it is the beauty of its landscape – the power of nature here. Asturias is, above all, nature in its pure state, but imbued with a deep-rooted awareness of environmental conservation, making it emblematic and pioneering in its drive to preserve its natural surroundings. This is why a third of its surface area is protected by one or other legal conservation provision, making it a veritable nature paradise, as proclaimed by the slogan which has now been running for thirty years.
Asturias is one great open-air nature park, unique in the world. Not for nothing does it boast six Biosphere Reserves, as listed by UNESCO, making it one of the world’s privileged territories in terms of natural spaces. These are the spaces to be hiked and enjoyed in your leisure time.
The Parque Nacional de los Picos de Europa, set in the Cordillera Cantábrica mountain range: this vast territory encompasses the areas of Amieva, Cangas de Onís, Onís, Cabrales, Peñamellera Alta and Peñamellera Baja. Its uniqueness, beauty and scenic, natural and geological interest led this territory to be declared the Picos de Europa National Park by King Alfonso XIII in 1918, while its western reaches once formed the first national park in Spain, that of Montaña de Covadonga. The Picos de Europa are the largest limestone formation on Europe’s Atlantic seaboard, featuring major karst processes – a type of relief set up by chemical meteorisation of certain rocks, notably limestone, dolomite and gypsum – chasms over 1,000 metres deep, pronounced glacial erosion and the presence of lakes. Here, chamois roam the crags, while the dense forest is home to roe deer, wolves and the occasional bear. The Park also boasts over a thousand bird species, prominent among which are the black woodpecker and capercaillie, with the griffon vulture and golden eagle as the major birds of prey. But, here you will find more than just nature, as centuries of history have been written in the villages, valleys and churches, in the mountain pass shelters and trails.
The Parque Natural de Somiedo is a distinct example of coexistence between man and nature, where the former has come to understand nature and preserve it virtually intact over the centuries. Noteworthy landmarks here are the beautiful lakes, the rugged landscape, with drops of up to 2,200 metres, and the karst formations. Significant, too, are the brañas, fertile pasturelands where you might just get a glimpse of the famous cabanas de teito – stone dwellings with thatched straw or broom roofs used by thevaqueiros or mountain cowherds and stock breeders as shelters.
The environmental wealth of the Parque Natural de Redes is attested by a host of different landscapes, from formations of glacial origin such as moraine and cirques to broad pasturelands, hills and lush forests. In effect, 40% of the surface area of Redes is wooded, although it is also graced by lofty peaks, notably Pico Torres, Retriñón, Peña del Viento and Tiatordos. However, the most striking feature of Redes is its stunning meadows hemmed in by mountain buttresses, its gorges and its forests, where beech and white oak prevail.
The Parque Natural de Las Ubiñas-La Mesa, situated in southern and central Asturias, harbours priceless natural and cultural wealth. It includes mountain relief with marked contrasts which, hard by the border with León, rises to the Peña Ubiña massif, the second highest mountain range in the region after the Picos de Europa, with altitudes of over 2,400 metres. The Park takes in the municipalities of Lena, Quirós and Teverga which form part of the Somiedo Regional Hunting Preserve.
The Reserva Natural Integral de Muniellos lies within the Parque Natural de las Fuentes del Narcea y del Ibias. Muniellos is a sparsely populated territory, with one of the lowest population densities in Asturias. Its three valleys of Muniellos, La Viliella and Valdebois boast Spain’s largest oak forest and one of the best preserved in Europe. Ever-changing, it epitomises the Asturian landscape throughout the seasons of the year – various species of oak, up to six metres in diameter, beech and birch forest, dotted with holly and yew trees, the evergreen kings of autumn in Muniellos. The ascent to its lakes is one of the most popular trails among hiking enthusiasts.
The Oscos-Eo District, where the river Eo is the great protagonist as landscape-builder and articulator of the territory. A land of beaches, cliffs, forests and enormous ethnographic wealth, a landscape which has suffered the consequences of centuries-long isolation but has nevertheless provided the bedrock for sustainability and rural tourism projects in which preservation of the local heritage is uppermost in their development.
Asturias, from Biosphere Reserve to Biosphere Reserve, is a great option for a relaxing getaway. You can also make the most of its boundless nature by participating in dozens of open-air activities: canoeing, horse-riding, mountain bike trails, caving, canyoning and trekking, just some of the ways of immersing yourself in this paradise.
Don’t miss out on this paradise on earth – check out our flights here.
Text and images by Turismo Asturias
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