6 Signature Cuisine Spots in Saint Petersburg
In the culinary sphere, a new wave of local chefs is venturing into signature cuisine based on local produce and a heady shot of well channelled creativity. There aren’t many places where you will notice such a local penchant for eating and drinking – particularly drinking – as in Saint Petersburg, like some genuinely celebratory way of life. And, as the saying goes, when in Rome, do as the Romans do.
Cococo. In the same kitchens where Alain Ducasse decided to try his luck in the city, now it is chef Igor Grishechkin and his talented crew who delight lunch and dinner guests that share their predilection for the setting and staging. Local produce in abundance and a commitment to the source of each dish. Brilliant plating up. Must book in advance. Voznesensky prospect, 6
TartarBar. Well off Saint Petersburg’s tourist track, this huge, industrial-aesthetic eatery invites you to savour chef Dmitri Blinov’s creative offerings. A profusion of raw, proximity products on a menu which makes no distinction between first and second course in a bid to foster a sampling approach throughout the meal. Vilenskiy St. 15
Hamlet + Jacks. Here you can taste chef Eugene Vikentiev’s compelling local-style dishes, as well as those of international inspiration, hard by the warmth and in full view of the kitchen fires. Short cookings, judicious combinations of ingredients and texture contrasts go into the making of dishes that bring out the finest in Russian cuisine as well as successfully exploring the culinary produce from the world over. Volynskiy per. 2
Pedro & Gómez u Larisy. If you’re into generous helpings of fusion cuisine, this is for you. Get ready to wield the chopsticks and move from America to Asia through a number of adroit dishes prepared in front of you, if you elect to sit at the bar. Large snacks, tremendous bowls of ramen and all dishes conducive to sharing. Rubinshteyna 29
Four Hands.Strike out just beyond downtown Saint Petersburg to try this warm gastropub with its characterful, minute cuisine authored by chef Cepren Fokin. Go for the bar counter so as not to miss the various preparation stages and even engage in repartee with the chef while you’re at it. Their tripe is another hallmark of the house. Prospekt Kosmonavtov, 63
Duo Gastrobar. Market cuisine with harkings of long-standing recipe books in modest-sized helpings. This quaint hangout with a bar counter and just five tables is the in spot among the foodie crowd. You’ll be caught up by the atmosphere and the ambitious wine list. Best book in advance. Kirochnaya St. 8A
Where to Sleep, Breakfast and Vice Versa
W St. Petersburg. This is the grand hotel par excellence. A pageant of modernity, warmth and good taste in Russia’s most cosmopolitan city. You will appreciate the welcome, the fireplace in the lounge in the colder months, and their spa, all year around. Spacious rooms, a roof terrace with views, a peerless location and a buffet breakfast lacking nothing, round off this charming hotel. 6 Voznesensky Prospect
Polikoff. The most functional option, sited at an intersection on crowded Nevsky Avenue, which you are bound to hit sooner or later. Housed on two floors of a former block of flats, this is the most practical and economical choice when pressed for time to sleep and breakfast. Karavannaya/Nevsky prospekt 64/11
Text by Belén Parra of Gastronomistas.com
more infoA Stroll Through Verona
Situated in the Veneto region in the north of Italy, Verona is a must-see city for those visiting the area. A stroll through its streets and past its monuments transports the traveller to a host of bygone times, from imperial Rome – this was Julius Caesar’s leisure resort – through the Middle Ages, the Renaissance and the periods of French and Austrian rule, up to the present. A rich historic past which has left its mark in the form of buildings, streets and squares, deservedly listed as World Heritage by UNESCO.
The City and its River
Verona is set on a meander of the river Adige, straddled by bridges such as the Ponte Pietra, the sole surviving Roman bridge in the city, and the Ponte Scaligero, with its characteristic battlements. The latter is part of the Castelvecchio, a medieval castle that currently houses one of the city’s leading museums.
Verona and its Roman Past
Noteworthy among the vestiges of Verona’s Roman past is the Arena, an amphitheatre dating from the 1st century AD where gladiators fought. Since 1913 it has been hosting activities more commensurate with our times, notably opera, performed in the summer from June to September. The large size of the amphitheatre, with a seating capacity of 30,000, is suitable for spectacular stage scenery, so don’t miss out on this memorable experience. We also recommend visiting the Roman Theatre, sited on the banks of the river Adige, which is currently part of the National Archaeological Museum. Like the Arena, in summer it becomes a venue for cultural activities; in this case, stage plays.
Thronging Piazzas, Impossible Love Affairs and Places of Worship
In the heart of the historic city lies the Piazza delle Erbe. Built over the old Roman forum and typified by picturesque white sunshades set above the market stalls, this unique spot is always teeming with people. Located in this square are such outstanding buildings as the Baroque Palazzo Maffei, the Torre dei Lamberti, affording magnificent views of the city from its rootop, and the beautifully frescoed facades of the Mazzanti Houses.
The Arco della Costa leads into the Piazza dei Signori, also known as the Piazza Dante, which was the centre of the city’s political activity during the 16th century. Preserved here, among other buildings, are the Palazzo della Ragione and Palazzo di Cansignorio, the seat of political power of the Scala family and the Venetians.
Not far from these magnificent squares, in the Via Capello, stands a landmark no visitor should miss, as it was immortalised in one of Shakespeare’s most popular works and has enshrined Verona as a prime destination for romantics. I’m refering, naturally, to the well-known setting for Romeo and Juliet. Juliet’s House is well worth visiting, although it is no mean feat having to jostle with hordes of other tourists in such a small patio. It does, however, have its charm.
As for religious architecture, not to be missed is the Basilica of San Zeno Maggiore, one of the masterpieces of Romanesque architecture in northern Italy, and the Duomo, also dating from the Romanesque (12th-century), which houses Titian’s Assumption of the Virgin Mary.
Time for Gastronomy
Not everything boils down to walking and sightseeing. You also need to get your strength back and enjoy the region’s culinary delights. We recommend you try the pastissada, a horsemeat stew, the origins of which go back to Roman times.
For those seeking a quicker, more refreshing break, what better than to stop at the Gelateria Zeno Gelato e Cioccolato, located in the Piazza San Zeno, to have one of their magnificent ice-creams.
Ready for a getaway to Verona? Come and discover this gem of Veneto. Check out our flights here.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by Spencer Wright, Lorenzo Blangiardi, Elescir, Kosala Bandara, FotoCla., Jorge Cancela, Allie_Caulfield, Son of Groucho
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FIVE OFFBEAT WEEKEND DESTINATIONS (FOR SOMETHING DIFFERENT)
Looking for a different kind of destination to get away? Keen to discover somewhere new? Pack your bag and head to these cities which you've probably never visited.
more infoWalpurgis Night – Revisiting the Witches’ Trails
Walpurgis Night – the night of witches or, in German, Walpurgisnacht– is held at the transit from 30 April to 1 May in much of central and northern Europe. May 1 is the feast of St Walpurga, the patron saint of countrywomen and servants, and patroness of conjurers. Legend has it that this is the last time witches can celebrate their heathen festivals after the darkness of winter, and they have the whole night to do so.
One of the most popular sites for this ritual is Brocken, the highest summit in the Harz Mountains (some 50 km from Leipzig, Germany). This peak is often shrouded in dense fog, endowing it with an air of mystery. It even gives rise to an unusual effect known as the Brocken Spectre – an optical illusion that can appear in any fog-clad mountains, by which an enlarged shadow of the observer, surrounded by an iridescent halo, is reflected onto the clouds. The effect is actually created by the diffraction of cloud droplets. This also helped to magnify the legend of the witches in the place mentioned by the German writer, Goethe, at the beginning of his best-known work, Faust, when he describes the scene of the witches’ night celebration on the slopes of the Harz mountains. On Walpurgisnacht, participants assemble at Brocken around a large bonfire and spend the night singing and dancing. The festive ritual is purported to drive off evil spirits. Witches’ night is celebrated at all villages in the Harz Mountains, where the inhabitants dress up as witches and demons, while street markets, fireworks, parades and concerts are organised. Check out the programme listing all the Walpurgis Night activities in Harz.
The Harz Mountains – Following in the Witches’ Footsteps
Accounts from the Harz are not limited to witches. This mountain range in Lower Saxony is an impressive nature reserve featuring some of the really beautiful spots. The mountain trails wind their way between steep cliffs and valleys, ash forests, and networks of villages, palaces and castles dating from the time of the Saxon Dynasty. It is northern Germany’s resort of choice for cross-country skiing and hiking, traversing the natural habitats of the red brocket, deer, lynx and wild boar, as well as the white-throated dipper, black stork and peregrine falcon.
The Harz is criss-crossed by a network of over 8,000 kilometres of well-signposted nature trails, making it a paradise for hikers. While the Harz National Park itself is practically uninhabited, you will come across a few hamlets and restaurants offering genuine, typical German cuisine – the stellar dish of the region is roast potatoes with spices. One of the trekking routes, known as Harzer Hexenstieg (Witches’ Route), is a trail running some 100 kilometres from Osterode, through Brocken, as far as Thale. Halfway along the trail, at a place called Torfhaus, the witches’ trail forks along a stretch known as “Goethe”. Indeed, the poet and playwright walked this same route some 200 years ago.
Fairytale Villages in the Harz Region
The Harz Mountains are also dotted with some charming 16th-century villages, rich in history and legend. Of these, we have highlighted the following:
Goslar. At the foot of the Harz range lies this picturesque medieval town, known as the “Rome of the North”. It was the residence of German kings and emperors until 1253. The historic town and the old Rammelsberg mines, situated on the edge of the town, are listed as World Heritage sites. Also listed by UNESCO is the nearby Upper Harz Water Regale (Oberharzer Wasserregal), one of the world’s largest and most important pre-Industrial Revolution energy-management systems. Its 107 dams and reservoirs and over 300 kilometres of water channels provide a stunning backdrop for the Harz mountain hiking trails.
Wernigerode. This, the nearest town to Brocken is noteworthy for its striking hilltop castle and its medieval houses elaborately adorned with wood carvings.
Thale. Situated in the picturesque Bode Gorge, overlooked by the Hexentanzplatz, a lofty hilltop which can be reached by cable car. Hexentanzplatz, meaning “witches’ dance-floor”, was once a place of worship in Saxon times, sacred to the forest and mountain goddesses. Here you will find various landmarks associated with witches’ legends, in addition to the Walpurgishalle Museum.
Quedlinburg. Just 10 kilometres from Thale lies Quedlinburg, the first capital of Germany and an important town during the Middle Ages. It currently holds the largest concentration of half-timbered buildings in the country. An interesting fact is that this town was ruled by women for 800 years.
You aren’t scared, are you? Come and see it for yourself. Check out our flights here.
Text by Scanner FM
Images by Olli Henze | Σ64 | Mundus Gregorius | GerturdK | Mathias Liebing | JuTe CLZ | Marco Hamersma
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