Despite its location on the shores of the icy North Sea, Hamburg is an ebullient city – and Germany’s second largest – while St. Pauli is its hottest quarter. It is articulated around a main avenue, the Reeperbahn, a risque, bacchanalian precinct, site of the red light district and a trove of highly recommendable temptations. From the iconic Schmidt Tivoli theatre to the Millerntor-Stadion, home to the endearing FC St. Pauli, we lift the veil on all the allurements of Sankt Pauli.

Angie’s Nightclub
Located on the upper floor of the Schmidt Tivoli is Angie’s Nightclub, one of the most popular clubs of Sankt Pauli’s night scene. Founded by the soul singer Angie Stardust in the 90s, the resident band features a different guest vocalist every night, often a leading figure in Germany’s music scene or on the international arena. Next you may proceed to Mojo Club, a live music venue tucked away amid the underground of Sankt Pauli’s iconic Dancing Towers, or to either the Klubhaus or Golem, two multi-space locales with an invariably interesting entertainment schedule crammed with concerts, movies and theatre plays. To round off your evening, you could head for the Golden Pudel Club (currently undergoing repair work after being ravaged by fire). Set on the banks of the Elbe, not far from the Fischmarkt, on the outside it looks like some unassuming fairy-tale house but it is actually the temple of electronic music where the dancing goes on until dawn.

Davidwache
At the intersection of the Spielbudenplatz and Davidstraße, hard by the Reeperbahn, stands Davidwache, probably the best known police station in Europe, with its own fan club! And, for its location, one of the busiest in Europe, too. Dating from 1840, the building has appeared in countless films and television series, while its cells have seen both small-time crooks and celebrities of the calibre of Paul McCartney and Pete Best held in custody.

Landungsbrücken
The Landungsbrücken, also known as theSt. Pauli Piers, is Hamburg’s old harbour terminal, situated on the banks of the river Elbe. It was once northern Europe’s port of departure to the New World and some five million people are estimated to have set sail from here, bound for a new life in America. Not far from here stands the Fischmarkt or fish market. In winter, it opens at 7 a.m. and in summer at 5 a.m. and immediately fills up with locals, tourists and hawkers as the fish auction gets under way. The brunch served on Sundays at various restaurants in the Fischmarkt is simply wonderful.

Millerntor-Stadion
The modest yet great FC St. Pauli is a reflection of the neighbourhood spirit and a last refuge of grass-roots football. Their principles advocate against xenophobia, fascism and sexism and the team is a favourite among both Germans and all over the world. They come out onto the pitch brandishing the Jolly Roger as their banner, with Hells Bells by AC/DC played over the PA system, while Song 2 by Blur sounds out whenever the side scores. Watching a match at the Millerntor-Stadion is truly an experience that goes beyond that of just a sporting event.

Reeperbahn
This is the main thoroughfare running through Sankt Pauli and one of the most ribald avenues in the world. Like Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde, it has two faces. By day, crowds jostle about doing their shopping or going out for a coffee. By night, the neon signs of the discos, night clubs, cabarets and sex shops light up. Mid-way between Barcelona’s Las Ramblas of the 1980s and Las Vegas, whatever transpires in Reeperbahn stays put within the neighbourhood. Local curiosities include the Beatles Platz, a square commemorating the passage of The Beatles through the city in their early years, when they performed at such venues as Star-Club, Kaiserkeller, Top Ten and Indra. Then there is The Reeperbahn Festival, which has been held each year at the end of September since 2006. Its programme features hundreds of concerts and the festival is a beacon for the music industry on an international level.

Schmidt Tivoli
With its old-world, slight seedy charm, the Schmidt Tivoli is the variety theatre par excellence in Hamburg’s red light district. Be sure to get tickets to the midnight show, when the ambience is more risque than during the afternoon or evening sessions. If you can’t get hold of a ticket, there are many other theatres and cabarets in Sankt Pauli to choose from, including the Operettenhaus, which specialises in musicals, the more conventional St. Pauli Theater, which has been operating since 1841, and the Imperial Theater.

Superbude Hotel Hostel
With its colourful designer rooms done out in fully recycled furniture, the Superbude is Hamburg’s hipster hotel for those who like to stay the night and be able to boast about being a trendy. A more conventional option is the EAST, housed in a former factory. Its stands out for its aesthetic, combining strains of the Far East with a Western industrial look. Be sure to have a meal in their restaurant, one of the best in St. Pauli.

Book your Vueling to Hamburg and revel in a district with possibly the liveliest night life in Europe.

Text by Oriol Rodríguez

Images by Heiko S, Wojtek Szkutnik, Itti, Reading Tom, David Coggins, abbilder 

The techno splendour of Berlin in the nineties is unlikely to return. But, this does not prevent the German capital from oozing club culture. We’re guiris – you can see that from a mile away. We smile in the metro simply because we’re downing one of the umpteen exquisite beers you can easily buy in Berlin’s 24-hour stores, or in the metro itself, from the stands that have taken over the underground landings. We’re guiris and, as such, we soak up the city’s nightlife by living out all the dreams and half-truths handed down to us about the historic nineties in Berlin, of basement clubs and all-night parties. Our premise is straightforward – what remains of that club culture splendour in Berlin? We have just forty-eight hours to tune in to the techno beat of today.

It’s Friday, so the adventure begins. Like any decent racing car, the body requires breaking in. And no other European city has more – or better – excuses than Berlin to drink a beer drawn at the counter. Our first stop takes us to Hops & Barley, a tavern with as many types of frothy beverage as the likelihood of rain in that Teutonic country. Dim light, gridded floor and we’re hard put to find a bar stool. The ideal space for stretching exercises.

When one’s throat is sated with pilsen, it’s time to move on, and the metro is our best option. Berlin has a comprehensive network and trains run to 12.30 in the morning on weekdays and round the clock on weekends. Near the Ostkreuz metro station, in an area hemmed in by railway lines and studded with niches formed by twisted iron bars –– a surprise awaits us. In a fenced off work area a bonfire is burning, surrounded by a group of youngsters, a computer and loudspeakers playing techno full blast. Here, the “scouts” listen to catchy “bits”, an image far removed from that of youngsters in Spain, where they gather around a bonfire, guitar and songbook in hand. Open-air parties are a permanent fixture of Berlin – they know a thing or two about them in Rummelsburg.

With this good omen of the city’s techno DNA behind us, we head for a an illustrious nearby squatter’s venue, ://about blank, one of Berlin’s numerous self-managed centres. “Love techno, hate Germany”, it says on the door. The day’s programme is antifascist, for 12 euros. Inside, the dark, crowded cube that is ://about blank offers a heady experience – a tight space and many young Berliners with their eyes closed, swinging their heads about frantically to the music DJ’ed in vinyl. The inner patio is the place to chill out. They recommend we attend a festival called Homophätik, which we will likely check out on subsequent trips.

Berlin does not sit well with the idea of “on a human scale”, as it stretches across a vast territory. This means you have to make the right choices. As for the right days – Chalet is the ideal club for Wednesdays, while Renate is best for Thursdays. But, today is Friday and it’s past four in the morning. We decide to leave the great techno marathon for tomorrow.

Saturday dawns splendidly for a day in May – the sun sends powerful shafts of light into the inner courts created by the residential blocks strewn across Berlin’s terrain. In one of them, some girls are rehearsing a choreography. Next door, a boom box blasts out strains of ambient music.

For lunch – it’s amazing how quick noon sets in when you’ve been up in the wee hours – we are taken by a Sudanese restaurant on Reichenberger street. This is a small eatery with a one-dish menu of the day – for meat-eaters and vegans – at competitive prices. Before plunging into the night again, we spend the afternoon browsing intently through another of any music lover’s crown jewels in Berlin – the record shops.

While finding the stores is something of an achievement, The Record Loft poses a veritable quest. But, using up the few megabytes of your ISP’s European rates brings a reward. On the fourth floor above another of the aforementioned inner patios lies Hard Wax, accessed via a staircase with steps plastered with labels and magazines from all continents. Hard Wax is a small label specialised in electronic music. They also have a vinyl store. The afternoon is also a good time to dip into the bookshops in the Hackescher Markt.  Some have large techno sections, notably Do you read me?, which also boasts a selection of local fanzines. In fact, their bibliography of Berlin’s cultural construction is extensive, ranging from such titles as Future Days, from “early times”, to Krautrock and the Construction of Modern Germany, to works focusing on the nineties like Der Klang, der familie. There are also exclusive titles from Berlin itself, witness Berlin Sampler. From Cabaret to Techno. 1904-2012.

Once your hands are sore from leafing through boxes of vinyls and keying in the titles of upcoming releases, it’s time to head for one of the pre-party clubs. But, more about that in the next chapter.

Text by Yeray S. Iborra | Our thanks to Ángel Molina, Ana Riaza, Carlota Surós and Martí Renau for the first-hand information on the itinerary for this article.

Images by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS, Michael Mayer

In terms of tourism, Germany is much more than just Berlin, Munich and Hamburg. In recent years, some cities from the former German Democratic Republic (GDR) are gaining prominence like any other, having shaken off the dust and deadweight of the Socialist regime they lived under during the Cold War. One of these newly emerging cities is Leipzig, its waxing popularity driven by the art scene, its recent history and the great vitality of its inhabitants. In the following we pinpoint the reasons that make Leipzig the ideal destination for your next getaway.

Leipzig – A Music Destination

Listen up, classical music lovers! Music is very much in vogue in Leipzig, and I mean goodmusic, largely owing to the city’s past. It is famous for composers of the calibre of Johann Sebastian Bach, who was cantor of the Choir at St Thomas Church, one of the oldest in the world. And of Robert Schumann and Clara Wieck, who entertained their contemporaries as musicians and as a couple. For Felix Mendelssohn, Leipzig was where he spent the last few years of his life, while the city is the birthplace of Richard Wagner. The Augustusplatz is the city’s music hub and the site of the Gewandhaus concert hall, a Brutalist-style building which houses one of the most widely acclaimed symphonic orchestras. Right opposite stands the Opera, the third oldest in Europe. Oddly enough, the two institutions share the same conductor.

Leipzig – A Defiant City

The chain of events that led to the downfall of the GDR unfolded precisely in Leipzig. Throughout 1989, a number of masses and peaceful protests were held around the Church of St Nicholas that gradually wore down the old, established regime and led to the fall of the Berlin Wall. The Stasi, the feared secret police of East Germany, witnessed these events in silence, as, faced with growing grass-roots pressure, they declined to intervene. Leipzig boasted numerous printing presses in the second half of the 20th century and, in order to monitor their activity, the Stasi had their headquarters set up in the so-called Haus zur runden Ecke (House of the Rounded Corner). Today it is a museum showcasing the workings of the former State security, which so hobbled the lives of the GDR’s citizens.

Leipzig – A Trade Centre & River Port

Leipzig has long been a major trade centre and, to provide merchants conducting their business with shelter from the inclement weather – rainy and overcast most of the year – around twenty covered arcades were built. Two of the best known arcades are Speck’s Hof – the oldest in Leipzig, which currently showcases some magnificent paintings and ceramic medallions, and the Mädler arcade with its stylish glass skylight and the historic Auerbachs Keller restaurant, where Goethe overheard the stories that inspired Faust when he was studying in Leipzig. As a tribute to the celebrated writer, there are two statues dedicated to the main characters in this paramount work of universal literature.

Leipzig’s commercial calling is partly due to the White Elster river, a sub-tributary of the Elbe, which numerous canals criss-crossing the city flow into. They also provide a different way of discovering it – from a small boat.

Leipzig – An Artistic Melting Pot

The Saxon city is currently one of the favourite destinations among painters, designers and creators from the world over on account of the lively art scene that has blossomed in the Spinnerei, once Europe’s largest spinning mill. Today it is an unusual, colossal cultural centre where contemporary art is produced and exhibited. It features twelve art galleries, a hundred art studios and over a hundred cubicles rented out to creators who flock to Leipzig to soak up the latest trends and share their know-how with other colleagues. Here, they feel very much at home.

Leipzig – A Grand City

Leipzig is a distinguished city with character and some striking monuments and other buildings. Prominent in the Augustusplatz is the Paulinum, one of the Leipzig University buildings, featuring a facade emulating the Paulinerkirche, the former university church which was senselessly dynamited in 1968 during the times of the GDR regime. Another building which stands out, at least for its height, is the City-Hochhaus, known as the “wisdom tooth” on account of its design. The top floor of this landmark houses the Panorama Tower restaurant and viewing platform. Their lunch menu is very reasonable and the eatery is worth visiting, if only for the splendid views.

The city also features a colossal monument which, apart from being oversized, also has an unpronounceable name – the Völkerschlachtdenkmal– which was built to commemorate the Battle of the Nations in 1813, specifically the defeat of Napoleon at Leipzig by a coalition of nations, namely Prussia, Russia, Sweden and Austria.

Come and discover this German city – check out your Vueling here.

Text by Tus Destinos

Images by Robin Kunz, Michael Bader, Peter Hirth, LTM-Tom Schulze, Nils Petersen

When it comes to Germany’s underground, everyone thinks of grand Berlin with its hipsters strolling through Kreuzberg, especially when it was alternative and arty – now Neukölln has taken over – its endless art galleries, flohmarkts and variegated events staged on any derelict or decadent-looking site.

However, it might occur to a few of you that Hypezig – from “hype” and “Leipzig” – has become Berlin’s major rival in the last ten years. The city is ideal for soaking up street art or homing in on radically alternative galleries, far removed from the bustle of the capital and beyond the tourist trail. A city where throngs of students, artists and musicians have been mingling for a long time.

Mom, I Want to be an Artist in Hypezig!

Spinnerei

This former cotton mill – once the largest in Europe – is a paradise for any art lover. Nearly a hundred artists and many galleries coexist in this emblematic spot. And, if you happen to stop by, you should not miss the ASPN Galerie, headed by Arne Linde, as this was a beacon of Leipzig’s art scene when it first got off the ground. Also a must is the Galerie Kleindienst, the city’s “New Leipzig School” of artists involved with all kinds of media and materials. At the Spinnerei you will also come across small establishments offering creative products, as well as a cinema and a bistro to act as your watering hole.

Weißcube Galerie

This gallery, housed in a white cube in the middle of a Bauhaus villa garden, is a must-see landmark. Apart from providing viewers with a fine example of outsider art, the dialogue set up between the building’s architectural pieces and its surroundings will leave no one indifferent.

Ortloff Galerie

On display in this gallery are exhibits ranging from graphic design to sculptures, to installations of all types. Many of the exhibiting artists are graduates of the Hochschule für Grafik und Buchkunst Leipzig (HGB), the city’s visual arts faculty.

But, perhaps the best way to soak up the art is to stroll through Leipzig’s streets. When you least expect it, you are likely to turn a corner and bump into such works as “Mural of the peaceful revolution”, by Michael Fischer, or Blek Le Rat’s “Madonna and child” graffito, which was restored and placed behind a protective glass screen.

Dancing in the Night

And, since man does not live by art alone, getting into the swing of the city’s nightlife is a good way of rounding off the day.

Elipamanoke

This is one of the first locales to be opened in the east of Leipzig, an area characterised by its industrial past and transformed into one of the city’s hot districts. The underground parties in Elipamanoke move to the rhythm of minimal techno and house, although you can also hear drum’n’bass or electroswing.

Institut fuer Zukunft

Their rule forbidding taking photos and their access policy make this an exclusive club which prides itself on being an alternative to the current club scene. The lineup at Institut fuer Zukunft features local and international DJs who gift experimental sessions of house and techno. During the day, they host conferences and debates on gender, club culture and electronic music.

Villa Hasenholz

The best parties are usually held at venues that were not originally clubs. Thus, this kulturhaus and biergarten called Villa Hasenholz, which is also a residence for artists, hosts rave-ups of all kinds. Making use of either the interior or their outside garden, the premises can operate as a disco, a concert hall or a multi-purpose festival venue, outside the established circuit and idyllically located in a forest.

Leipzig is the ideal destination for a weekend getaway where you can steep yourself in a bohemian ambience of art and music. It is also one of the iconic cities for its classical music or for lazing in its parks and gardens, like the Clara-Zetkin-Park, where jazz is played every Sunday. But the city offers, above all, a markedly alternative Germany, alien to any stodgy clichés. It also brings home the fact that smaller cities such as Weimar, Dresden or Bremen are also likely to raise the eyebrows of more than one cosmopolitan hipster.

I’m sure you’re eager to plunge into the city’s cultural effervescence. Make haste – check out our flights to Leipzig here.

Text by Carmen Gómez for ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Photos by Elipamanoke, Institut fuer Zukunft, di.fe88, GlynLowe, Pfauenauge