By Iñaki Makazaga from Piedra de Toque

The most visited figure in Denmark and the main tourist attraction in the city of Copenhagen sits totally oblivious to the world at the end of a pier in the port (Langelinie). The Little Mermaid avoids all eye contact as she looks out to sea, almost with her back turned to her visitors. Perhaps this is because only she knows the true price of her fame (decapitated twice, mutilated three times and thrown out to sea several times) and the real story behind her own history. We decided to get on our bikes in search of answers and found the true face of Copenhagen: a city with a barbaric past that has now become a haven for peace.

We began our journey on the banks of the Sankt Jorgens Canal overlooked by the mansions reflected in its waters as we ventured out among the families, people enjoying sport and ducks picking at the grass. We pedalled along on the bicycles we rented from one of the 110 locations dotted around the city – one of the measures aimed at obtaining the title of ‘capital city with the best environmental quality’ in 2015. Every turn of our wheels left behind yet another tree as we travelled along the green corridor created by the canal. We took in the sights and decided to turn right at the third bridge to eventually arrive at the Botanical Garden and Museum (Botanisk Have) at 128 Gothesgade.

More than 20,000 different species of plant life now thrive in the grounds of these old city fortifications. The walls contain spacious gardens and the moat is full of aquatic and wetland plants, each with its own little information sign stuck in the ground nearby. We parked up the bikes at the entrance and walked in. It was March and there was a hint of change about everything as the snowy season began to loosen its grip. The earth was all churned up, the trees were leafless and the sky was grey. An enormous three-story greenhouse with four glass pavilions appeared in the distance where 1,000 varieties of cactus, coffee plants, pineapples and even palm trees are incubated and studied. We were overcome by temptation and bought two bags of seeds from the shop on the way out: one of Asian bonsais and another of red orchids. Maybe we thought we could take away our own part of the peace that reigns in this park and whose roots still soak up the blood of the people who fought to defend the city from enemy invasion.

We returned to our trail. We left behind the garden and the botanical museum to pedal our way through the areas surrounding Roseborg Slot, the royal palace built by Christian IV in 1606 as a summer residence that now also serves as a large museum. It houses thousands of objects related to the oldest monarchy in Europe and is full of paintings, furniture, weapons and jewels. The traffic light turned from amber to green and so we pedalled on.

The peace of the botanical gardens now changes to the hustle and bustle of central Copenhagen. The cars give way to cyclists between the buildings from which emerge the strong>spires of the Marmorkirken, a church inspired by Saint Paul’s in Rome and which was originally planned to be built using Norwegian marble. They soon realised there was a far simpler way to celebrate the 300-year reign of the family of Frederik V and the Norwegian marble was switched for Danish marble a century later in order to get the place finished. However, no expense was spared on the steps: 260 to reach the bell tower. The views of the city make the exhausting climb well worth it. We took the opportunity to check our map. We felt the call of the thriving city centre, with the pedestrianised Strøget street full of shops and terraces filling the cobbled medieval squares of Kongens Nytorv and Radhuspladsen. We left those for nightfall and continued towards the port where the Little Mermaid sat waiting for our visit.

We dismounted and walked the bikes for a while. We were in Nyhavn, the New Port, which was opened by soldiers between 1671 and 1673 so that ships could unload their goods in the city centre. It became the darkest part of Copenhagen for years, inhabited by sailors and ladies of ill repute. Cheap rooms, dark taverns, tattoo parlours and brothels. Nyhavn has emerged from its murky past and now offers one of the most attractive faces of the capital along the 300-metre stretch of port-front properties with narrow, colourful houses and pavements full of terraces. No matter how cold the weather is, a blanket, a heater and a candle embrace all visitors. Around the edge of the port can be found evidence of that era in the form of wooden ships such as the 19th Century lighthouse ship that has been converted into a restaurant. An anchor that belonged to a Danish frigate also recalls the maritime past and pays tribute to all those who lost their lives during World War II. We took photos of the brightly-coloured houses. Maybe Hans Christian Andersen himself looked out from one of them to look at the sky while penning his tales. The truth is that even the walls whisper their stories in this part of town.

Now back on our bikes we pedalled along the canal towards the sea with the humid wind blowing in our faces. The tide greeted us at the shore, together with a number of new pavilions. We entered the Citadel (Kastellet), another great fortification to protect against attack from the Swedes. The five-pointed star-shaped fort has also witnessed great swathes of history in this country. Used by Nazi troops as a main headquarters during World War II, it now belongs to the Danish army although the gardens and walls are open to the public. In the 19th Century, it was also used as a prison and small sculptures now speak of the horrors of war. A museum depicts the activity and names of the people who led the resistance against the Nazis. And the Little Mermaid, nowhere to be seen.

We kept on pedalling. It started to snow and a hoard of tourists announced we had reached another point of interest. At the end of the pier, resting on a rock and with her back to the tourists we finally met the star of one of the most famous stories written by Hans Christian Andersen. The very one who fell in love with a prince and who now waits for him to return looking out to sea. The snow continued to fall. The grey sky opened as if in slow motion: rain, snow, more rain.

Walt Disney tells us of a happy mermaid surrounded by seafaring friends who struggles to make her dreams come true. The reality proved to be much different. The colour of copper, alone, her nakedness constantly illuminated by camera flashes from the tourists. Yet she doesn’t smile. The thing is, Hans Christian Andersen wrote a different ending. The prince she gave up being a mermaid for ended up marrying another. The Little Mermaid died alone, without breaking the spell that would let her return to the sea without killing the prince. She preferred to wait, convinced that another ending would find her sooner or later. Like the Little Mermaid, Copenhagen has preferred to keep every palace, every fortification that speaks of its Viking and Barbarian past in order to convert them into gardens and museums that grow a new history of peace and tolerance. We joined the Little Mermaid and gazed out at the horizon in silence.

COPENHAGEN BY BIKE:

Time: 2 hours

Route: Sankt Jorgens Canal in Norrebro, Botanical Museum, Roseborg Slot, Marmorkirken, Nyhavn, Kastellet, The Little Mermaid.

Recommendations:

- Visit the museums mentioned: open from 10:00 to 16:00.
- Get a Copenhagen Card.
- Explore the city by bike and have lunch in the New Port after finishing the tour.

By Iñaki Makazaga from Piedra de Toque

Picture by Henrik Jessen

Why not take a trip to Copenhague? Have a look at our flights here!

It is easy to dream all four wheels in a city where worldwide fame cars are made. The car culture is very important in Stuttgart, more than anywhere else. Here began their unique trajectories Daimler-Benz and Porsche. We can find two spectacular museums in honor of these brands.

On one side, the ultramodern Mercedes-Benz Museum, which tells the car’s complete history from the beginning without skipping any of the stages. In his futuristic building, you’ll find over 1,500 pieces spread over nine floors documenting its history.

On the other hand, it is located the Porche Museum, in the town of Zuffenhausen. The building causes great admiration because of its architecture, and the fact that it is supported by only three points. It seems to float in the air. Inside, all white, we find rare vehicles and a variety of historical mode.

Also, if your visit to Stuttgart is in March, during the month Retro Classics is celebrated, one of the most beautiful car fair of all Germany, where classic car collectors worldwide met together.

But not only the automotive industry city lives, Ballet, Opera and Theatre are worldwide known. The Great Orchestra of Stuttgart, jazz clubs or two musical theaters in the SI-Centrum Stuttgart provide musical delights to all visitors. In the streets Calwer and Königstrasse will enjoy a mile of world-class stores where to shop. And save your time for another of the great attractions that Stuttgart offers: Wilhelma Park, one of the most beautiful botanical gardens and zoos in Europe.

A place well worth discovering! Check out our flights here.

1 – A few pintxos through the old town

Yes, accompanied by a zurito and taking our time, a requirement. Walking from the port to the square of the constitution we can test any of these delicious miniatures as cod fritters, squid-in-its-ink croquettes , stuffed aubergines …. the list is endless and there is something for everyone.

2 – Palacio de Miramar

Located in one of the most beautiful places in the city, this English-style old building that used to house the Spanish royalty we can enjoy from one of the best views of the bay of San Sebastian and
its gardens.

3 – Kursaal

One of the most emblematic buildings of the city where (among other events) the famous San Sebastian International Film Festival is celebrated. An impressive building of translucent cubes, work of Rafael Meneo, facing the sea. It is also located in Gros, the surfer neighborhood, so if you like surfing, you can always go down with your board to practice.

4 – Playa de la Concha

It is one of the most famous beaches in the country for a certain reason. Summer or not, admiring the island of Santa Clara as you walk , you ride your bike , or even surf the waves is another delicacy that San Sebastian offers. Do not struggle , you’ll end up falling in love with her.

5 – Igueldo

With an endearing wooden funicular that we can take very close to El Peine del Viento, in this magical corner we can see the best view of the city, Concha bay and the island of Santa Clara.

Besides enjoying the beauty of the natural environment, the amusement park and the old lighthouse that oversees city are some of the best kept secrets of the place.

Image: Mikelo

By Isabel Sánchez

Why not take a trip to San Sebastián? Have a look at our flights here!

Barcelona never sleeps, not even in the summer, quite the opposite in fact. In July, the city dances to its very own soundtrack as it becomes the venue for a whole host of top musical events. So as you can see, July is not just about sun and beach, it's also the month of music in Barcelona.