The Concurso de Tapas Picadillo is one of the most acclaimed in northern Spain. In A Coruña, the whole city gets involved, with a good many culinary establishments presenting their best creations. In some areas of the city, participants have come together in the form of group entries. Following is a rundown of some of the bites that surprised us most. As there were over 70 participants, we have made a selection of those located near the historic city centre. Although the contest is over, bear in mind you can still savour the tapas until 31 December, and you can look up this year’s winners on the competition website.

The Ciudad Vieja, Monte Alto, Zalaeta and Plaza de España Area

The earliest settlement in A Coruña is what is now known as Ciudad Vieja (Old City), an area which features monuments prior to the 19th century. This is the perfect place to stroll around, in the hushed atmosphere of its cobbled backstreets. The best place to start the route is hard by the San Carlos Gardens, at an establishment called A Boca do Lobo, where you can try the two special tapas that entered the competition. The first, creative offering is Galician octopus at 100°, seaweed coulis and liquid croquette with a pork crust. The other is the traditional roast Celtic pork dewlap and potatoes in their gravy. On the edge of the Ciudad Vieja lies the Plaza de María Pita, a complex of striking harmony arranged around a statue of a local heroine who fought against English corsairs. The square is surrounded by buildings with porticoes where some of the city’s main bars and restaurants are located. These include Breen’s Tavern, where you can enjoy a scrumptious cod-and-prawn brandade. Next door is El Ángel Café Bar (Plaza María Pita, 25) whose “Celtic pouches” were a surprising entry in the competition, while El Tequeño made a bold move with their creative, melgacho tapa based on small-spotted catshark tail.

The Barrera, La Marina, Galera, Estrella and Olmos Area

This is the nerve centre of A Coruña’s tapas bars, an area also known as La Pescadería, where the largest number of establishments is concentrated. The Calle Franxa, which runs from the Plaza de María Pita, is studded with seafood restaurants, Cuban and Turkish eateries, and a whole gamut of traditional tascas, beer gardens, jamonerías and wine cellars. The stretch leading from Ciudad Vieja to Los Cantones is another area crammed with bars and restaurants. However, the highest concentration of these is found along Calle Barrera, which boasts no less than thirteen contestants in the tapas competition. Like A Casa da Moura(Barrera, 9), with their delicious ovo da moura, or Alma Negra (Barrera, 13), with their creative mackerel taco, as well as a more traditional dish known as mar y montaña de tendones y callos de bacalao (“sea and mountains of tendons and cod tripe”). For us, however, pride of place goes to the stunning tartar de zamburiñas y aguacate sobre cama de brotes tiernos y brotes de col morada (“tartar of variegated scallop and avocado on a bed of tender bean sprouts and red cabbage shoots”), to be had at Tapa Negra. Calle Galera, which leads into Calle Olmos, is flanked by some of A Coruña’s classic tapas bars which have been handed down from one generation to the next.

The Alameda, Plaza de Galicia, Plaza de Vigo and Juan Flórez Area

Another large collection of tapas bars is grouped around the two aforementioned squares. This is the heart of the Ensanche quarter, an important shopping and business precinct, with a good many stores and offices, but also taverns and restaurants. It is part of the Picasso District, an area running from Juana de Vega to Plaza de Mina, named after the Malagan artist who lived and studied for a few years in this part of A Coruña. The streets Juan Flórez, Linares Rivas and Ramón de la Sagra also fall within its zone of influence.

We strolled through the area stretching from Los Cantones to the Parque de Santa Margarita; then along Juan Florez up to Avenida de Rubine, which leads to the Riazor football stadium. To start with, at Casa Martín, near the Plaza de Pontevedra, you should try the empanada de xoubas y grelos (pilchard and turnip top pie). Just one street away is El Huerto Los Cantones (Cantón Pequeño, 22) where, if you’re still feeling peckish – or you have just started out on the route – you will be well satisfied with the miniburguer de pez espada, tomate semiseco, espinaca fresca y salsa de almejas en pan de cereales (swordfish mini burger, semi-dried tomatoes, fresh spinach and clam sauce on wholemeal bread). Any better offer?

Don’t miss the chance to sink your teeth into the best, traditional-style, creative tapas currently to be had in A Coruña. Check out our flights here.

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by Turismo A Coruña, Concurso de Tapas Picadillo

The world’s pintxo capital (referring to what trendies would call “finger food”, which has been around in the Basque Country since time immemorial) also boasts some outstanding tortillas de patata or potato omelettes. And, speaking of omelettes, we ought to clarify certain points before moving on to locations. Firstly, a great potato omelette should reach the table with the egg slightly moist. Any other option is an aberration which no omelette connoisseur would approve of. But, take note – I said “slightly moist”; not liquid, but set. There is nothing worse than an omelette with runny egg drizzling all over the plate. You do get them, and we have even been served the occasional one in establishments allegedly renowned for their omelettes.

Let’s proceed – with onion included, please. The secret of the perfect omelette is the balance of flavours between the egg, onion and potato. And, if we remove one of the vertices of the triangle, the creature will be bereft of that sweetish touch provided by ripe onion. That does not mean further ingredients are not welcome, but they should be added judiciously, without them stealing the show. Or that there shouldn’t be any exceptions either - we all know that the omelette world is impregnable.

Lastly, the perfect omelette should always be golden brown on the outside, without being burnt – there is nothing more awful than the taste of singed egg. The texture should be pliant, mellow, well-set, and the potato soft and smooth; well cooked but without being dry or pasty, or hard and crisp either.

Another factor to be considered when talking about the potato omelette phenomenon is what time of day to eat it. The answer is unquestionable, and only narrow-minded folk would say otherwise – at any time of day. And, when I say at any time, I mean for elevenses, afternoon tea, for lunch or dinner, as a snack, when you get back from a party in the wee hours, but also – and here is the clincher – for breakfast. At 8 in the morning. With the marks left by the bedsheets still fresh on your face. Accompanied by a nice milk coffee. The Basques are well aware of this. Indeed there are also so many other things those of us from other Spanish autonomous communities need to learn from them. We unfortunately aren’t that adroit at bold, early-morning pairings.

So, after this long, hard reflection on the perfect omelette and having eaten some and consulted with Eneko Sukaldari, one of the leading experts on potato omelettes on the planet, we went in search of the finest in Bilbao. Let the discussion commence…

Brass 27. That an establishment with a hipster calling, acclaimed for its superb brunches, should make what is likely the best omelette in town is a sign that times are changing. Even for Bilbao. While the long-standing classics are shutting shop, others are opening. (This is a subject apart – the havoc wrought by the crisis on something as hallowed as the potato omelette.) And, they show the world that serving up a fine omelette is not necessarily at odds with a chic-industrial-vintage aesthetic. The Brass 27 variety is mellow and balanced, with a perfect creaminess. Interestingly, it rubs shoulders on a fusion cuisine menu with dishes of South American and Asian inspiration, like Pad Thai with prawns. Gee… it’s the 21st century!

Swansea. Located near the San Mamés stadium and thus frequented largely by a football crowd, this commonplace establishment in the best sense of the word boasts one of the best omelettes in Bilbao. What makes it so special? Let’s dispense with superfluous detail – if we took a mugshot of the perfect potato omelette, the resulting picture would be that of the Swansea omelette. It oozes prowess – the egg is done to a tee (not apt for lovers of well-cooked food or compact omelettes), the outside is an exquisite golden brown and the sole accompaniment is a piece of bread. Wicked! Rodríguez Arias Kalea, 70

La Ribera Bilbao. Delightful venue with a sophisticated industrial look, housed in La Ribera market, with lovely views of the estuary. Here you can taste some grand omelettes while listening to live jazz; pair them with cocktails, include them in a brunch and savour that fantastic goldie touch, their perfect balance, powerful flavour and smooth, mellow, ideal consistency, the stuff of our dreams for some time to come.

Salón de Juego Concha 1. There are many reasons to love Bilbao, and one of them is that among the best omelette venues in town – a centre of pilgrimage for gourmets and epicures from the world over – is located in a gaming saloon. The hangout on Calle General Concha has long featured a fabulous omelette – tender, delicious and with perfect flavour and consistency. A round of roulette after the tuck-in… the ideal finishing touch to a perfect evening!

Brace yourself before venturing into the wonderful world of Bilbao’s potato omelettes – book your Vueling to the city here.

By Laura Conde of Gastronomistas.com

All photos courtesy of Eneko Sukaldari

The idea is not new. For some years now, these artificial urban beaches have popped up each summer in Berlin, Hamburg and under the bridges of the river Seine in Paris. You won’t have to cram the whole family into your car, or embark on a long, hot journey to feel the sand under your feet and freshen up in the water. In Brussels, this tropical paradise is known as Les Bains de Bruxelles and it lasts for five weeks on the Quai des Péniches, along the Brussels Canal. It opens from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays and Sundays, and from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.

True, there aren’t many waves, but some ingenuity has been applied to making the beach as attractive as possible; indeed, it draws an extremely diverse crowd of beach-goers. The 6,000 m² of sand are dotted with deck-chairs, palm trees and coconut palms, striped sunshades and beach bars serving vividly coloured cold beverages. The atmosphere is a family one during the day and sports activities include beach football, volleyball, boule and ping-pong, as well as games for young children. Pedalos and kayaks can be hired at reasonable prices on Sundays. You can also go for a ride along the canal on board the Bruxelles les Bains, which offers various tours – the short one takes 55 minutes; the longest one is a 2-hour cruise, and there is also a “cocktail cruise”, by night – while the harbour’s history and geography is expounded on by a guide.

This chill-out on the beach is accompanied by the Let It Beach festival, now in its third year. A variety of concerts liven up the evening on weekends, while on Fridays the music turns to folk, rock, pop and hip-hop. Jazz and world music take centre stage on Saturdays. The Sunday programmes target the younger set, with workshops, dances and, of course, more concerts. Night reverie is bolstered by free sessions of Croisetteke, every day from 6 p.m. on, in addition to theBoat Club,an exclusive floating club which hosts the liveliest parties in Brussels.

Not Without My Ice-cream!

When the thermometer seems to be driving endlessly upwards, another delicious way of keeping cool is to have an ice-cream. And, for those who can’t contemplate a day at the seaside without ice-cream, here are some of the best parlours in town:

Comus & Gasterea (Quai aux Briques, 86)

A place for trying the newest and most unusual flavours. It features some of the strangest ice-creams in the world, with such flavours as caviar, olive oil, Roquefort, lichi, wasabi aubergine and basil, home-made and free of additives or colouring agents. All you need is to be patient, as queues can sometimes build up outside its doors.

Capoue (Rue de Wand, 112)

Chez Capoue is one of the oldest ice-cream parlours in Brussels and, while at Comus & Gasterea you find the most unusual flavours, in Capoue they make the most daring combinations, notably bounty, blood orange and spiced bread. They are also have them sugar-free for diabetics, or lactose-free for those allergic to dairy.

Il Monello (Chaussée de Charleroi, 31 -33)

While Il Monello opened only recently, it has already made a name for itself in the city for its traditional pastries and homemade ice-creams. They also serve the latter atop a waffle for those seeking consistency (or calories).

Zizi (Rue de la Mutualité, 57A)

Zizi, a veritable institution in Brussels, is the city’s best-known ice-cream parlour. In the sixty years they have been open, they have never altered their manufacturing process. The flavours are natural and free of colouring agents.

Brussels Rules!

Brussels is a refreshing destination this summer, but not only because of its urban beach. Throughout the summer, every Friday from 5 p.m. to 11.30 p.m., the Apéros Urbains or animated afterworks are held in some of the most attractive spots in the city. Also featured is the Midis Minimes classical music festival, with daily concerts lasting 35 minutes from 12.15 p.m. (until 28 August), held in the Church of Saint-Jean et Etienne aux Minimes and in the Conservatorio Real.

Come and experience it for yourself. Come on! Pick up your towel and check out the flights to… Brussels!

Text by Scanner FM

Images by Eric Danhier

Truman Capote wrote of Tangier: “Almost everything in Tangier is unusual. Before coming here you should do three things – be inoculated for typhoid, withdraw your savings from the bank, say goodbye to your friends…” Capote was there in the summer of 1949, but Tangier still holds out that invisible but very real lure which the author of Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1958) and In Cold Blood (1965) observed. “Tangier is a basin that holds you, a timeless place; the days slide by less noticed than foam in a waterfall.” That is how the celebrated American writer accounts for so many travellers – artists, writers, bohemians – landing in Tangier for a short holiday and then deciding to settle there indefinitely, simply “letting the years go by”. That is what today’s route is about – sitting back on one of the terraces and watching the city bustle unfold.

At the Top of the Kasbah

1. Breakfast at Tiffany’s, but at La Maison Blanche Riad-Hotel

We can’t think of any better way to start the day in Tangier than by breakfasting on the panoramic terrace of La Maison Blanche Riad-Hotel, located at the top of the Kasbah, alongside the main gate to the erstwhile fortress. After spending a peaceful night in one of their nine rooms – each one with its own décor, dedicated to artists who helped turn Tangier into a fascinating, cosmopolitan place (Paul Bowles, Juan Goytisolo, etc.) – you will witness first-hand the leisurely awakening of the city. Enjoy the light that so impressed Matisse, the sea and the multi-coloured rooftops. Price per room: from 100 to 150 euros, breakfast included.

The Heart of the Medina

Once you feel rested and well fed, it’s time to wander through the Medina. Whichever way you enter, within two minutes you get hopelessly lost in the chaotic maze of alleyways, those tunnels with coloured walls where no shaft of sunlight ever penetrates but which are always filled with light. Both sides of the pleasant grotto are lined with all kinds of workshops and businesses. Cobblers, basket-makers, jewellers, dairies, barber shops, spiceries… The toing and froing of people and goods is constant. Everything gets conveyed in hand-carts, as cars wouldn’t fit in these narrow streets. The agreeable chaos is augmented by hawkers of fruit, fish, mint, potatoes, broad beans, nougat, brick-a-brac, etc. But, the Medina is also peopled by leisurely Tangerines who practise the healthy pastime of sitting at a terrace or in the bright interior salon of a café, and letting time go by.

2, 3 & 4. Tingis, Central and Fuentes… in the Warmth of the Petit Socco

The small but crowded Petit Socco square is ideal for observing one of the nerve centres of Tangier’s Medina. There are various options, but the most typical and recommendable ones include the airy salon and terrace of the Café Tingis, where the time-worn sign claims “everything always fast and fresh”. Similarly, the Café Central, located just opposite, or the balconies of the Café Fuentes, on the upper floor. To get there, your best reference point is the Petit Socco square – officially known as the 9 April 1947 – which is a two minutes’ walk along the Rue Siaghine. On your way, you will catch sight of the facade of the Spanish Catholic Mission, next to the Alcalá department store – “fabrics, novelties…”. This is followed by numerous money-changing booths, shop windows plastered with vintage cameras and a host of jewellery stores.

5. Café Ibn Batouta, in the Heart of the Medina

Somewhat more hidden, but more authentic, is the Café Ibn Batouta, located in the heart of the Medina. It takes up several floors, although regulars hang out on the first floor where they often watch football matches on the television. At the top of the narrow staircase you suddenly come onto a split-level terrace where the youngsters of Tangier meet to drink tea, chat and smoke, with the sky as their only witness. From here, the sea is not visible, but you do look out over a beehive of rooftops and roof terraces bedecked with satellite dishes and laundry hanging on the lines. Neither is it one of the city’s most comfortable joints, but indeed one of the most genuine. The affordable prices – a large glass of mint tea costs just 6 dh – draw many students to the city. Next to the small bar counter where the tea is made hangs a photo of the actor, Matt Damon, of The Bourne Ultimatum fame. Regulars enjoy telling new customers how the scenes where the star jumps between buildings, from one balcony to the next, was filmed here.

Atlantic Views

6. Café Hafa, Paul Bowles’ Favourite

The staggered terrace of the Café Hafa is unique. Overlooking the ocean, on the top of a cliff, it is absolutely always jam-packed with youngsters drinking tea, smoking and playing table games. Opened in 1921, it was the favourite of Paul Bowles, and the Rolling Stones also came here, among other celebrities. The tea is tasty and cheap – less than 1 euro – and, although the plastic furniture detracts from the café’s charm, it is ideal for having a restful break, reading, chatting and gazing out over the blue horizon.

Getting there is a cinch – you leave the Kasbah by the main gate next to La Maison Blanche and take the street that goes up to the Phoenician necropolis, a popular spot among Tangerines, who often spend the afternoon there. Just beyond it, a bright alleyway where young men mill around buying and selling loose cigarettes leads to the Café Hafa, where you can also grab a bite of one of the local snacks.

In the Coolth of the Kasbah

7. Morocco Café – Peace in the Shade of a Centenary Rubber Plant

Located just 20 metres from the main gate into the Kasbah, the quiet terrace of the Morocco Café is ideal for having some tea or any drink and even ordering the dish of the day, a salad, a quiche, etc. All the food is home made. The café is somewhat more upscale than average and prices are more like those on the opposite side of the Gibraltar Strait. For instance tea – served in a small teapot – costs 18 dh. It opens at 9 in the morning, except on Mondays, which is their day off. The building also houses the Morocco Club, a piano bar where by night you can enjoy good music and excellent cocktails in a pleasant atmosphere.

Text and images by Sergio Fernández Tolosa (Con un par de ruedas) for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS