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The Seven Deadly Sins of Turin

The sins of lust, gluttony, greed, sloth, wrath, envy, and pride were singled out as the deadliest by early Christians, and yet their popularity remains unchecked. Turin, with its sublime beauty, its elegantpalazzosand boulevards, and enchanting personality, is a great place to indulge your favourites.

Lust
Lust is commonly regarded as being produced by excessive thinking. For abundances we have the Palazzo dell’Accademia delle Science,containing the Museo Egizio Museum, which holds the most important collection of Egyptian archaeological treasures outside Cairo. But nothing is more opulent than the Piazza Castello. This square boasts several museums, theatres, and cafés of note. There we find the Museo Civico d’Arte Antica in the fabulous Palazzo Madama, a castle that is half medieval and half Baroque, and the museum contains modern and contemporary works of art. At night it’s easier to reach the state of lust. The city’s best night spots are in Murazzi del Po, amongst the archways next to the rive, between the Vittorio Emanuele I and Umberto I bridges. Much to be recommended are the clubs Hiroshima Mon Amour (Via Bossoli, 83), the United Club (Corso Vigevano, 33) which is the meeting point for the city’s rock scene, and Blah Blah (Via Po, 21), in a former cinema.

Gluttony
For unbridled consumption of food and drink to the point of satiety and beyond, try a breakfast or brunch at the morning food specialist Andrea Perino(Via Cavour, 10), a favourite of such luminaries as Alexandre Dumas, Friedrich Nietzsche, and Giacomo Puccini. Or have an excellent cup of coffee at the welcoming Caffè Mulassano (Piazza Castello, 15). This art nouveau café, decorated with gilt carvings of bronze, wood, and leather, was once frequented by the Savoy family and by performers from the adjacent Teatro Regio. Here you’ll find the city’s best stand-up espresso. To continue with luxurious excess, there’s the Caffè San Carlo (Piazza San Carlo, 156), an unbeatable option. There’s nothing like its cakes and sweets, made to recipes more than a century old. To end the day with some serious overeating, your best choice is Sfashion (Via Cesare Battisti, 13), for Turin’s best pizzas, with thick dough and traditional Neapolitan ingredients. But your gluttony needn’t end there. Keep in mind that the first chocolate in tablet form was made in Turin when you visit Al Bicerin (Piazza della Consolata, 5) to try some. In addition, in March the city hosts a famous chocolate fair, known as Cioccola-tó.

Greed/Envy
Greed is a sin of excess in the acquisition of wealth. The elegant tree-lined boulevards and porticoed promenades feature the city’s most expensive fashion boutiques. More affordable clothing is to be found on the pedestrian mall on Via Garibaldi, and in Via Po there are amazing shops selling records and vintage or alternative clothes. But we can also find just the opposite in Turin, the birthplace of Arte Povera (“poor art”), a revolutionary artistic movement in the 1960s, whose members employed humble materials to awaken memories and symbolisms through sculpture and installations. The movement had a major international impact thanks to artists like Gilberto Zorio, Giuseppe Penone, Mario Merz, and Michelangelo Pistoletto.

Sloth
Sloth is related to ordinary laziness or the lack of motivation to do anything. It’s a well-known fact that during a trip the days are often exhausting. That’s why it makes sense to schedule in some relaxation time, and the best place to chill in Turin is Parco Valentino, the park on the banks of the Po. A number of open-air bars and restaurants operate there from late spring to early autumn. And at night, there’s nothing better than to walk back to your room at the Hotel Dogana Vecchia (Via Corte d’Appello, 4), built in the early 19th C. Mozart was a guest there, and so was Napoleon. The location in the Quadrilatero Romano makes it one of the city’s best hotels.

Wrath
Wrath may be described as a disorderly, uncontrolled sentiment, such as that which can be provoked by one of the world’s greatest historical mysteries: The Holy Shroud of Turin, revered by many as the burial shroud of Jesus ever since 1898, when photographic techniques revealed the negative imprint of a man’s face and body on the cloth. The Museo della Sindone is in the crypt of the church of the Sacra Sindone (Via Santo Doménico, 28). Another building that can disquiet us is the Museo Nazionale del Risorgimento Italiano, located in the Baroque Palazzo Carignano, a former residence of princes.

Envy/Jealousy
Envy is characterised by the coveting of someone else’s possessions. And that’s the predominant feeling among visitors to the Museo dell'Automobile as they eye the four-wheeled gems on display, the most marvellous cars on the planet. But to turn our envy a deeper shade of green we should visit Turin’s cathedral, the Duomo di San Giovanni (Piazza San Giovanni), built in 1491-1498 on the site of three old churches. In one of the chapel the actual Holy Shroud of Turin is kept.

Pride
On nearly all lists of sins, pride is regarded as the original one and the most serious of all. It is identified as the desire to be more important or attractive than others. In the past, the local football teams led the league at a distance from the rest. In the 1940s Torino FC was the undisputed leader, winning five consecutive titles, but the entire teams died in a plane crash in 1949. Four decades later it was the turn of Turin’s other first-division team, Juventus, starring the three-time Golden Boot winner Michel Platini. But there are other sources of pride, such as one of the city’s most famous symbols, the 167-meter tower Mole Antonelliana (Via Montebello, 20), with an aluminium spire, reaching closer to heaven than any other building in this magical city.

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Report by Isabel y Luis Comunicación

Pictures by Turismo Torino e Provincia

 

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The Art of Eating

By Ferran Imedio from gastronomistas

Amsterdam has dozens of attractions for the visitor. Without doubt, the most important are the 'must sees and dos'; the canals (a cruise is a 'must do'), the Red Light district and the museums. Taken on its own, the city's gastronomy doesn't hold a great deal of appeal, unless it is combined with a 'must see'. Here we have created a sort of food-museum fusion, without the pretension or high prices. As Miguel Brugman, chef of the Foam Cafe points out, “A short time ago, museum cafes and restaurants only served sandwiches, cakes and tea. Things are finally changing.” The Dutch are faithful museum-goers and it's true that culinary offerings in cultural places have changed for the better. We found this out for ourselves. Here are our recommendations.

Foam Café

Foam Cafe is situated on the ground floor of the prestigious Foam Museum, the city's temple of contemporary photography (a small but very interesting show titled 'Under Construction', featuring young North American artists is on until December). You won't find anything too challenging here. On the contrary, the dishes are direct, simple and engaging. The menu has Mediterranean influences, lots of salads, lots of organic olive oil, plenty of vegetables and pulses, pitas, soups, scrambled eggs (you get the idea). It’S healthy and reasonably priced, with all dishes under 10 euros.

Foam functions as a restaurant from noon to 3pm. Before and after that (it opens at 10am and closes at 6pm) it's a café, serving cakes and the iconic saucijzen broodje (a pastry stuffed with a pork sausage, here prepared with organic ingredients) amongst other things.

On Thursdays, between 6pm and 9pm, the museum offers guided tours that end with supper in the restaurant; a set menu that consists of a tapa (hummus or perhaps marinated octopus) and a main dish (meat, fish or a vegetarian option) costing 19.50 euros. If you don't take the tour, the tapas is priced between 4-6 euros and the main courses 16.50 euros. On Fridays, also between 6pm and 9pm, Foam Cafe puts on 'Frozen Fridays' when they serve snacks (5 euros) and cocktails (6 euros).

Keizersgracht, 609
http://foam.org

Eye Bar-Restaurant

Overwhelming. That is the only word to describe the architecture of the Eye Film Museum. Inside, Holland's national film museum hosts four cinemas as well as an exhibition space. There is also a restaurant that looks like a cinema, with large steps looking onto a panoramic window resembling a cinemascope screen. It leads onto a terrace and affords views across the River Ij to the centre of the city and Central Station, which is next to the free ferry terminal. The restaurant offers French-influenced cuisine with nods to other parts of Europe. Midday sees a more simple menu of soups and salads whilst at night you can enjoy fillet steak and steak tartar, turbot, seafood bisque and mushroom risotto.

The price for the midday menu is 20 euros and in the evening the bill is generally under 40 euros. The restaurant is open 10.30am to 10.30pm (or 11.30pm on Fridays and Saturdays).

Ij Promenade, 1
www.eyefilm.nl

De Plantage

De Plantage is recently opened and contemporary. A natural light comes pouring through the large, welcoming dining room via huge vintage windows. Da Plantage serves Mediterranean food, of high quality and at reasonable prices. It's situated right next door to the entrance of he city's zoo; one of the oldest in the world and the most visited attraction in Amsterdam. The same building hosts a permanent exhibition called 'Micropia'; millions and millions of insects that inhabit the planet and can only be seen under a microscope. In the near future, it will also accommodate the Museum of Natural History.

De Plantage's dishes are well presented, aromatic and healthy; salads, raviolis, pork terrine, fried artichokes, risotto and fish. The kitchen is open from 10am to 4pm and 5.30pm to 10.30pm daily, and in-between times breakfasts and snacks are served. At lunchtime, it costs around 17 euros (drinks not included) and in the evenings around 35 euros. During the autumn months, an evening set menu is offered, consisting of three courses and costing 32.50 euros (drinks not included).

Plantage Kerklaan, 36
www.caferestaurantdeplantage.nl

Rijksmuseum

The enormous, majestic hall that exhibits art from the gothic to contemporary periods (and between November and January, 20th century photography in the show called 'Modern Times') also has an agreeable and tranquil café. The only beer served here is Dutch and in fact all ingredients in the (mainly cold) dishes are be local too. Sandwiches cost between 5 and 9 euros, salads between 12 and 16 and cakes from 2 to 5 euros. Note the chocolates that are shaped like the museum's facade.

The café is open from 9am to 5pm. If you visit the Rijksmuseum from November onwards, you can also eat at the restaurant, where a well-known international chef will take up residence for two or three months at a time - just like a temporary exhibition.

Museumstraat, 1
https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/es

Still hungry? You can always seek out some of the city's more or less conventional restaurants. In Amsterdam, there is a wide gastronomic offering, although you are better off avoiding traditional Dutch cuisine. Even locals agree with this statement, and generally only eat it at home.

Raïnaraï

This pleasant, modern restaurant serves traditional Algerian food (taureg is speciality). It is situated in the Westergasfabriek park, an old industrial zone whose gigantic gas tanks now accommodate dozens of restaurants, clothing shops and art galleries. There are 14 dishes on the menu and they change daily, but all are prepared with organic ingredients. It is open from Tuesday to Sunday, noon to 10pm. Expect to pay between 30 and 40 euros and 7.50 for cocktails.

Polonceaukade, 40

REM Eiland

A petroleum platform that was also used to transmit pirate radio and TV has been converted into a two-story restaurant (one accommodates a terrace, and is only open during the summer). It is simply spectacular. Climbing the steep metal staircase or skirting behind the security rails can produce a sense of vertigo. The cuisine served here is international; simple and direct at lunchtime whilst a night two set menus are offered for 31 euros (3 courses) and 37 euros (four courses), drinks not included. They include dishes such as turbot tartar, bulgur with peppers, avocado and red onion salad, grilled solomillo, and large raviolis filled with pumpkin, mushrooms, carrot and asparagus in the Parmesan sauce. It's opened daily, for lunch from noon and dinner from 5pm.

Haparandadam, 45-2
www.remeiland.com

Sky Lounge

Sky Lounge is a terrace restaurant with views located the 11th floor of the Double Tree Hotel. At night, it's a great place to partake in a cocktail with the entire city laid at your feet and a DJ providing the soundtrack. Whether day or evening, snack food from all four corners of the globe is served; nachos, sushi, sandwiches, fish and chips, hamburgers, pasta, edamamen and gyozas. It's open every day from 11am to 1am (to 3am Fridays and Saturdays).

www.skyloungeamsterdam.com

Brasserie Halte 3

An old tram garage and workshop that stood empty for 16 years has been colonised by two restaurants, a gastro zone with 21 stands offering all types of food (open daily 11am to 8pm, 4 to 8 euros per plate), a cinema, an art gallery, a book and bicycle shop, TV studios and a hotel. Altogether, the complex is called De Hallen. One of the restaurants, the recently opened Brasserie Halte 3, is a French-style bistro whose steak tartar is superb. Other offerings include oysters and lamb chops. Like most restaurants in Amsterdam, the midday menu is more pared down.

Open daily 11am to 10pm. Lunch: 10 euros, dinner: 25-30 euros.

Bellamyplein, 51
www.halte3.nl

Meat West

Also situated inside De Hallen, Meat West is only open for dinner. (7.30pm to 10.30 pm, 11.30pm Thursday to Saturday). Ninety- year old tram tracks decorate the floor and the menu specialises in prime cut meat, mostly steak, which features in hamburgers, entrecotes, chops and steaks.

Expect to pay between 40 and 50 euros (without drinks).

Bellamyplein, 51
www.meatwest.com

Blue Spoon

This restaurant, inside the Hotel Andaz, is one of the most interesting in the city. The French-influenced cuisine is made with local ingredients without the song and dance. The result is KM0, seasonal dishes dressed with herbs that are grown in the restaurant's garden. If you are staying at the hotel, there is a dining room for guests only with canal views, where you can have a snack or glass of wine for free during the day. You can also dine at the chef's table. Expect to pay between 35 and 45 euros without drinks. The 'family' menu, for 6 people, includes the best entrees and fish of the day and costs 56 euros per head. Open noon to 3pm and 6pm to 11pm.

Prinsengracht, 587
amsterdam.prinsengracht.andaz.hyatt.com/en/hotel/dining/Bluespoon.html

The Lobby

One of the most highly recommended restaurants in Amsterdam, not only for its location (two minute's walk from the monumental Damplatz) but also quality-price ratio. Every day, the kitchen opens from noon to 4pm and 6 to 10pm (Friday and Saturday cocktails are served to 3am) although you can also pop in for breakfast from 7am. Don't leave without trying the flammkuchen, a typical Alsatian pizza, thin and crunchy and topped with all manner of ingredients. Otherwise, local produce is prepared into international dishes. A set evening menu is offered for 34.50 euros (3 courses, no drinks). The fish dishes work extremely well, like the elegant sea bass. Also consider the exciting octopus with pancetta, and above all, pork neck cooked at low temperature.

Nes, 49
www.thelobby-amsterdam.nl

Gebr. Hartering

Brothers Paul and Nick Hartering are at the helm of this charming, creative cuisine restaurant on the banks of a canal. It has two floors, a plank over the water and even a little boat that acts as a terrace in good weather. Only tasting menus are served, one consisting of 6 courses (50 euros, without drinks) and another of 9 courses (75 euros, without drinks). Plates, designed to be shared, are placed centre table. The chefs work with local produce and are influenced by classic French cuisine with no mod cons. The wine list, naturally, features a very large selection of French wines.

Open Tuesday to Sunday, 6pm to 11pm.

Peperstraat, 10
www.gebrhartering.nl

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