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Easter in Sicily – between Christianity and Paganism

As in much of Spain, Holy Week unfolds with great intensity in most of Sicily. This comes as no surprise – the processions of penitents commemorating Christ’s Passion and Death were brought to the island by the Spanish in the 16th century.  While they abound across Sicily, the processions that arouse the greatest expectation are those held in villages like Enna and Caltanissetta, both of which lie about an hour’s drive away from Catania.

But all Sicily’s beautiful, timeless villages preserve their deep-rooted traditions, each with its own character. A holiday on the island during Holy Week could combine sightseeing in coastal towns, discovering local architecture and tasting their delicious cuisine. And, during the festivities, the religious guilds stage spectacular Easter processions in which the Baroque aesthetic prevails.

If you want to savour some of these ancient festivals, go to Prizzi on Easter morning. There they celebrate the Ballo dei diavoli (dance of the devils). In this folk tradition from the Middle Ages, death, dressed in yellow, accompanied by devils clad in red, roam the town heckling the passers-by, who can only get rid of their tormentors by giving them a donation. This takes place just when the madonna and child make their entry. This curious form of revelry, a mix of the religious and the profane, represents the eternal struggle between good and evil.

A similar event known as the Diavolatais held in Adrano.The main square or Piazza Umberto provides the backdrop for this battle between good and evil, represented by Lucifer and his devils on one side and St Michael the Archangel on the other.

Another picturesque celebration is the Madonna Vasa Vasa,in Modica, in which the faithful crowd around the floats on their way to the church of St Mary of Bethlehem to witness the traditional bacio di mezzogiorno (the noon kiss) between the Virgin Mary and the resurrected Christ. Vasa means “kiss”. Dressed in mourning, the Madonna is carried through the streets of Modica in search of her son, to the rhythm of drumming. Throughout the procession, the people sing, dance and drink to celebrate the event. While strolling through the winding streets of Modica’s charming historical centre, visitors will eventually come across the striking Baroque architecture in the area around the Castle of the Counts of Modica, listed as a World Heritage site since 2002.

One of the oldest and most enigmatic celebrations is the Procession of the Mysteries, held in the historical centre of Trapani. Full of light and emotion, this procession consists of twenty float groups depicting the Passion and Death of Christ which parade through the streets for 24 hours, starting on Good Friday afternoon. The figures are borne on the shoulders of the massari to the rhythm of a traditional music known as annaccata.

As in all traditional festivities, Holy Week in Sicily has its characteristic confectionery. The colomba pasquale (Easter dove), also known as the palummeddi or pastifuorti, is eaten in the home. This typical sweet is usually shaped like a dove or rooster, although new shapes are emerging all the time. It consists of flour, sugar and cinnamon, topped off with a hard-boiled egg as a symbol of Easter and rebirth. A similar pastry is the cuddura, typical of the Calabria region. Based on flour and water, it is similarly adorned with hard-boiled eggs. The casatta siciliana is another cake eaten at Easter, although it is sold in pastry shops all year around. If you would like to taste some of these delicacies, the best assortment is to be had at Pasticceria Irrera, on the Piazza Cairoli 12 in Messina, and at Caffè Sicilia, on Corso Vittorio Emanuele III, 125 Noto de Siracusa.

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Text by ScannerFM

Image by Clemensfranz, Carmelo Giuseppe Colletti, Rmax75, Giovanni, Traktorminze

 

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Cité Radieuse Le Corbusier In Pristine State

Marseille is full of surprises, or at least that’s the feeling you get when venturing into the city. This gateway to the Mediterranean has much more to offer than what is apparent at first sight. For starters, it has two harbours – the Vieux Port (Old Port), enclosed and fortified, a vestige of times when the coastline was invaded by pirates and hostile nations. And, the new – and larger – harbour which opens out to the sea and is a symbol of contemporary times. The elegant buildings lining the city’s streets have an unkempt, decadent yet inspiring air, while the fishing quarters smack of new trends in the guise of art galleries and cafés, and avant-garde spaces such as the MuCEM (Museum for the Civilisations of Europe and the Mediterranean) and the Villa Méditerranée, attesting to Marseille being much more than just a port city. And, in the midst of all this stands the highlight of this article, one of the works which prompts many architects to pilgrimage to Marseille –Le Corbusier’s Cité Radieuse.

This huge building, recently designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, together with 16 other architectural works by Le Corbusier, is one of the essential icons of modern architecture and one of the artificer’s major achievements. In this massive and equally beautiful colossus in concrete, the precursor of Brutalist art and ideologue behind architecture as we know it today successfully shaped the vertical city he had dreamed of, which he named the Unité d’habitation (Housing Unity). This was the first in a succession of similar residential buildings which were subsequently erected in Nantes-Rezé (1955), Berlin-Westend (1957), Briey (1963) and Firminy (1965).

Cité Radieuse, known locally as La Maison du Fada (The Nutter's House), is a large apartment block located in the south of Marseille on the Boulevard Michelet. It was designed in 1945 and built from 1947 to 1952. It is made up of 337 duplex apartments distributed over twelve storeys. Apart from its residential function, Le Corbusier also incorporated amenities into the design, including a commercial area on the seventh and eighth floors, gardens, a paddling pool, a gym, a theatre and a nursery on the spectacular rooftop. The edifice was built in rough-cast concrete and its standout feature are the supporting pilotis or piers, as well as the polychromed decoration on the balconies which set up a rhythm across the facade.

Most of the apartments are now private property, although sightseers are allowed to visit the common areas of the building. On the seventh and eighth floors you can see how most of the commercial units have been turned into design and architects studios. An exception to this is La Ventre de l’Architecte, a luxury restaurant affording splendid views of Marseille and the coast. The crowning touch is provided by another communal area, the rooftop, an area of surprises where architectural forms have been turned into spectacular sculptures affording views over the city. A pilot apartment can be visited as part of a guided tour, but be sure to book in advance with the Marseille Tourist Office. Those who would like to broaden their experience of the Cité Radieuse can stay overnight at the Hotel Le Corbusier, housed in the building itself.

Don’t miss the chance to visit Marseille and its architectural jewel, the Cité Radieuse. Book your Vueling here!

Text and photos by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

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A Stroll Through Verona

Situated in the Veneto region in the north of Italy, Verona is a must-see city for those visiting the area. A stroll through its streets and past its monuments transports the traveller to a host of bygone times, from imperial Rome – this was Julius Caesar’s leisure resort – through the Middle Ages, the Renaissance and the periods of French and Austrian rule, up to the present. A rich historic past which has left its mark in the form of buildings, streets and squares, deservedly listed as World Heritage by UNESCO.

The City and its River

Verona is set on a meander of the river Adige, straddled by bridges such as the Ponte Pietra, the sole surviving Roman bridge in the city, and the Ponte Scaligero, with its characteristic battlements. The latter is part of the Castelvecchio, a medieval castle that currently houses one of the city’s leading museums.

Verona and its Roman Past

Noteworthy among the vestiges of Verona’s Roman past is the Arena, an amphitheatre dating from the 1st century AD where gladiators fought. Since 1913 it has been hosting activities more commensurate with our times, notably opera, performed in the summer from June to September. The large size of the amphitheatre, with a seating capacity of 30,000, is suitable for spectacular stage scenery, so don’t miss out on this memorable experience. We also recommend visiting the Roman Theatre, sited on the banks of the river Adige, which is currently part of the National Archaeological Museum. Like the Arena, in summer it becomes a venue for cultural activities; in this case, stage plays.

Thronging Piazzas, Impossible Love Affairs and Places of Worship

In the heart of the historic city lies the Piazza delle Erbe. Built over the old Roman forum and typified by picturesque white sunshades set above the market stalls, this unique spot is always teeming with people. Located in this square are such outstanding buildings as the Baroque Palazzo Maffei, the Torre dei Lamberti, affording magnificent views of the city from its rootop, and the beautifully frescoed facades of the Mazzanti Houses.

The Arco della Costa leads into the Piazza dei Signori, also known as the Piazza Dante, which was the centre of the city’s political activity during the 16th century. Preserved here, among other buildings, are the Palazzo della Ragione and Palazzo di Cansignorio, the seat of political power of the Scala family and the Venetians.

Not far from these magnificent squares, in the Via Capello, stands a landmark no visitor should miss, as it was immortalised in one of Shakespeare’s most popular works and has enshrined Verona as a prime destination for romantics. I’m refering, naturally, to the well-known setting for Romeo and Juliet. Juliet’s House is well worth visiting, although it is no mean feat having to jostle with hordes of other tourists in such a small patio. It does, however, have its charm.

As for religious architecture, not to be missed is the Basilica of San Zeno Maggiore, one of the masterpieces of Romanesque architecture in northern Italy, and the Duomo, also dating from the Romanesque (12th-century), which houses Titian’s Assumption of the Virgin Mary.

Time for Gastronomy

Not everything boils down to walking and sightseeing. You also need to get your strength back and enjoy the region’s culinary delights. We recommend you try the pastissada, a horsemeat stew, the origins of which go back to Roman times.

For those seeking a quicker, more refreshing break, what better than to stop at the Gelateria Zeno Gelato e Cioccolato, located in the Piazza San Zeno, to have one of their magnificent ice-creams.

Ready for a getaway to Verona? Come and discover this gem of Veneto. Check out our flights here.

 

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by Spencer Wright, Lorenzo Blangiardi, Elescir, Kosala Bandara, FotoCla., Jorge Cancela, Allie_Caulfield, Son of Groucho

 

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6 ways to get off the beaten track on your next visit to Bilbao

After two decades of ripping up the urban rulebook, Bilbao continues to fast forward into the future with new projects like the colossal Zorrotzaurre island development. The city retains its traditional character, however, in the Old Town and its famous pintxo routes (the Basque spin on tapas). Check out our list of the 6 most offbeat things to do on your next visit to Bilbao.

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