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Brisk Encounter With Berlin Techno Part 1

The techno splendour of Berlin in the nineties is unlikely to return. But, this does not prevent the German capital from oozing club culture. We’re guiris – you can see that from a mile away. We smile in the metro simply because we’re downing one of the umpteen exquisite beers you can easily buy in Berlin’s 24-hour stores, or in the metro itself, from the stands that have taken over the underground landings. We’re guiris and, as such, we soak up the city’s nightlife by living out all the dreams and half-truths handed down to us about the historic nineties in Berlin, of basement clubs and all-night parties. Our premise is straightforward – what remains of that club culture splendour in Berlin? We have just forty-eight hours to tune in to the techno beat of today.

It’s Friday, so the adventure begins. Like any decent racing car, the body requires breaking in. And no other European city has more – or better – excuses than Berlin to drink a beer drawn at the counter. Our first stop takes us to Hops & Barley, a tavern with as many types of frothy beverage as the likelihood of rain in that Teutonic country. Dim light, gridded floor and we’re hard put to find a bar stool. The ideal space for stretching exercises.

When one’s throat is sated with pilsen, it’s time to move on, and the metro is our best option. Berlin has a comprehensive network and trains run to 12.30 in the morning on weekdays and round the clock on weekends. Near the Ostkreuz metro station, in an area hemmed in by railway lines and studded with niches formed by twisted iron bars –– a surprise awaits us. In a fenced off work area a bonfire is burning, surrounded by a group of youngsters, a computer and loudspeakers playing techno full blast. Here, the “scouts” listen to catchy “bits”, an image far removed from that of youngsters in Spain, where they gather around a bonfire, guitar and songbook in hand. Open-air parties are a permanent fixture of Berlin – they know a thing or two about them in Rummelsburg.

With this good omen of the city’s techno DNA behind us, we head for a an illustrious nearby squatter’s venue, ://about blank, one of Berlin’s numerous self-managed centres. “Love techno, hate Germany”, it says on the door. The day’s programme is antifascist, for 12 euros. Inside, the dark, crowded cube that is ://about blank offers a heady experience – a tight space and many young Berliners with their eyes closed, swinging their heads about frantically to the music DJ’ed in vinyl. The inner patio is the place to chill out. They recommend we attend a festival called Homophätik, which we will likely check out on subsequent trips.

Berlin does not sit well with the idea of “on a human scale”, as it stretches across a vast territory. This means you have to make the right choices. As for the right days – Chalet is the ideal club for Wednesdays, while Renate is best for Thursdays. But, today is Friday and it’s past four in the morning. We decide to leave the great techno marathon for tomorrow.

Saturday dawns splendidly for a day in May – the sun sends powerful shafts of light into the inner courts created by the residential blocks strewn across Berlin’s terrain. In one of them, some girls are rehearsing a choreography. Next door, a boom box blasts out strains of ambient music.

For lunch – it’s amazing how quick noon sets in when you’ve been up in the wee hours – we are taken by a Sudanese restaurant on Reichenberger street. This is a small eatery with a one-dish menu of the day – for meat-eaters and vegans – at competitive prices. Before plunging into the night again, we spend the afternoon browsing intently through another of any music lover’s crown jewels in Berlin – the record shops.

While finding the stores is something of an achievement, The Record Loft poses a veritable quest. But, using up the few megabytes of your ISP’s European rates brings a reward. On the fourth floor above another of the aforementioned inner patios lies Hard Wax, accessed via a staircase with steps plastered with labels and magazines from all continents. Hard Wax is a small label specialised in electronic music. They also have a vinyl store. The afternoon is also a good time to dip into the bookshops in the Hackescher Markt.  Some have large techno sections, notably Do you read me?, which also boasts a selection of local fanzines. In fact, their bibliography of Berlin’s cultural construction is extensive, ranging from such titles as Future Days, from “early times”, to Krautrock and the Construction of Modern Germany, to works focusing on the nineties like Der Klang, der familie. There are also exclusive titles from Berlin itself, witness Berlin Sampler. From Cabaret to Techno. 1904-2012.

Once your hands are sore from leafing through boxes of vinyls and keying in the titles of upcoming releases, it’s time to head for one of the pre-party clubs. But, more about that in the next chapter.

Text by Yeray S. Iborra | Our thanks to Ángel Molina, Ana Riaza, Carlota Surós and Martí Renau for the first-hand information on the itinerary for this article.

Images by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS, Michael Mayer

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5 Highlights of A Leipzig Getaway

In terms of tourism, Germany is much more than just Berlin, Munich and Hamburg. In recent years, some cities from the former German Democratic Republic (GDR) are gaining prominence like any other, having shaken off the dust and deadweight of the Socialist regime they lived under during the Cold War. One of these newly emerging cities is Leipzig, its waxing popularity driven by the art scene, its recent history and the great vitality of its inhabitants. In the following we pinpoint the reasons that make Leipzig the ideal destination for your next getaway.

Leipzig – A Music Destination

Listen up, classical music lovers! Music is very much in vogue in Leipzig, and I mean goodmusic, largely owing to the city’s past. It is famous for composers of the calibre of Johann Sebastian Bach, who was cantor of the Choir at St Thomas Church, one of the oldest in the world. And of Robert Schumann and Clara Wieck, who entertained their contemporaries as musicians and as a couple. For Felix Mendelssohn, Leipzig was where he spent the last few years of his life, while the city is the birthplace of Richard Wagner. The Augustusplatz is the city’s music hub and the site of the Gewandhaus concert hall, a Brutalist-style building which houses one of the most widely acclaimed symphonic orchestras. Right opposite stands the Opera, the third oldest in Europe. Oddly enough, the two institutions share the same conductor.

Leipzig – A Defiant City

The chain of events that led to the downfall of the GDR unfolded precisely in Leipzig. Throughout 1989, a number of masses and peaceful protests were held around the Church of St Nicholas that gradually wore down the old, established regime and led to the fall of the Berlin Wall. The Stasi, the feared secret police of East Germany, witnessed these events in silence, as, faced with growing grass-roots pressure, they declined to intervene. Leipzig boasted numerous printing presses in the second half of the 20th century and, in order to monitor their activity, the Stasi had their headquarters set up in the so-called Haus zur runden Ecke (House of the Rounded Corner). Today it is a museum showcasing the workings of the former State security, which so hobbled the lives of the GDR’s citizens.

Leipzig – A Trade Centre & River Port

Leipzig has long been a major trade centre and, to provide merchants conducting their business with shelter from the inclement weather – rainy and overcast most of the year – around twenty covered arcades were built. Two of the best known arcades are Speck’s Hof – the oldest in Leipzig, which currently showcases some magnificent paintings and ceramic medallions, and the Mädler arcade with its stylish glass skylight and the historic Auerbachs Keller restaurant, where Goethe overheard the stories that inspired Faust when he was studying in Leipzig. As a tribute to the celebrated writer, there are two statues dedicated to the main characters in this paramount work of universal literature.

Leipzig’s commercial calling is partly due to the White Elster river, a sub-tributary of the Elbe, which numerous canals criss-crossing the city flow into. They also provide a different way of discovering it – from a small boat.

Leipzig – An Artistic Melting Pot

The Saxon city is currently one of the favourite destinations among painters, designers and creators from the world over on account of the lively art scene that has blossomed in the Spinnerei, once Europe’s largest spinning mill. Today it is an unusual, colossal cultural centre where contemporary art is produced and exhibited. It features twelve art galleries, a hundred art studios and over a hundred cubicles rented out to creators who flock to Leipzig to soak up the latest trends and share their know-how with other colleagues. Here, they feel very much at home.

Leipzig – A Grand City

Leipzig is a distinguished city with character and some striking monuments and other buildings. Prominent in the Augustusplatz is the Paulinum, one of the Leipzig University buildings, featuring a facade emulating the Paulinerkirche, the former university church which was senselessly dynamited in 1968 during the times of the GDR regime. Another building which stands out, at least for its height, is the City-Hochhaus, known as the “wisdom tooth” on account of its design. The top floor of this landmark houses the Panorama Tower restaurant and viewing platform. Their lunch menu is very reasonable and the eatery is worth visiting, if only for the splendid views.

The city also features a colossal monument which, apart from being oversized, also has an unpronounceable name – the Völkerschlachtdenkmal– which was built to commemorate the Battle of the Nations in 1813, specifically the defeat of Napoleon at Leipzig by a coalition of nations, namely Prussia, Russia, Sweden and Austria.

Come and discover this German city – check out your Vueling here.

Text by Tus Destinos

Images by Robin Kunz, Michael Bader, Peter Hirth, LTM-Tom Schulze, Nils Petersen

 

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The Manhattan of Europe

By Tensi Sánchez from Actitudes Magazine

Frankfurt on the Main, commonly known as Frankfurt, is one of the most important cities in Germany and one of Europe’s leading economic and financial centres.

Tradition and modernity live side by side in this German city on the banks of the River Main. Its skyline of metal and glass buildings is reminiscent of the famous views of Manhattan as seen from the Hudson River. Although modernity has made its mark on this Bavarian metropolis, many architectural treasures still remain of what was, centuries ago, one of the most important cities in the German empire.

A perfect symbiosis that endows Frankfurt on the Main with a timeless ambience, where conservative German style, contemporary architecture, classic European art and cutting edge design create a fusion that makes this city an ideal destination for all types of tourism.

From Haupbanhof, the city’s main station, we can explore almost the entire city without having to use public transport. As we stroll among Frankfurt’s modern building’s, the old city begins to make its presence felt ever more clearly with each step. Along the cobbled streets in the city centre, we discover magnificent examples of classic German architecture: balconies teeming with flowers, houses with red tile roofs and picturesque buildings that reflect the history of a Medieval city.

The main artery of the city is the Zeil and adjoining streets, all full of shops and shopping arcades. We recommend visiting Zeil Galerie, where we find shops like The Hub, a concept store offering such brands as Acne and Filippa K, as well as the boutique Balmain, Mathew Williamson and vintage articles at Moschino, Vivienne Westwood and Issey Miyake, among others. Another great option is Superette du design, a spectacular shop selling decorative items and gadgets, or Leonid Matthias, a multi-brand store with articles by both German and international designers. From the Zeil Galerie roof-top terrace, you can enjoy fabulous views over the city centre.

The city’s old quarter is home to many famous buildings, such as the former Römer city hall inRömerberg squareHauptwacheFrankfurt opera house, St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral, the Stock Exchange guarded by a bronze bull and a bear that represent the ups and downs of the stock market. The historic city centre boasts modern, state-of-the-art buildings such as the European Central Bank and theMMK Museum of Modern Art, one of the most important contemporary art museums in the world. Its vast collection includes works by Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein, Claes Oldenburg, Pablo Picasso, Mario Merz, Jeff Wall, Marlene Dumas, Bruce Nauman… The museum is also home to the Club Michel City restaurant, offering a pop-art ambience, the perfect place to take a break and wind down.

On the banks of the River Main we find the museum area, popularly known as Museumufer (Museum Embankment) a series of ten wonderfully restored villas converted into cultural spaces, all with cafés, shops and extensive gardens. One of the finest is the Museum für Angewandte Kunst (Museum of Applied Arts), where you can find fashion design and Asian decor alongside locally designed furniture from 1925 through to 1985. The museum also has a concept store and restaurant. Another great museum in Frankfurt  is the Städel Art Museum, which houses one of the finest collections in Germany: Rembrandt, Edgar Degas, Johannes Vermeer, Botticcelli…along with other great masters.

One of the city’s greatest attractions must be the Frankfurter Skyline, which includes some of Europe’s tallest skyscrapers, towering over 331 metres. And some of the city’s bridges offer fabulous views of the sunset.

The Frankfurter Skyline encompasses over 26 skyscrapers, including: Commerzbank Towerdesignedby Norman Foster and at 259 m is considered the tallest building in Frankfurt and the second tallest in the European Union, although it is surpassed in height by Europaturm at 331m, but this observation tower is not generally regarded as a building as it has no consecutive floors that can be occupied.
It is also worth mentioning Westendtower, Opernturm, Tower 185 and Main Tower, the latter being one of the most visited by tourists (entrance charged) and has an excellent restaurant known as Main Tower Restaurant & Lounge.

The Eurotheum skyscraper is home to INNSIDE Frankfurt Eurothem, the ideal place to relax in the evening, located as from the 22nd floor and serving wonderful cocktails to the sound of live piano music while we marvel at the breathtaking views. A truly unique experience. While this hotel is quite incredible, those who are not too keen on heights and prefer a more relaxed atmosphere can stay at the vanguard hotel that is part of the same chain,INNSIDE Frankfurt Niederrad, just one stop from the main train station and the perfect place to relax and wind down after exploring the city.

Picture by Rubén Seco

What are you waiting for to book your vueling? The perfect way to enjoy a weekend break.

 

 

 

 

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Travel to Japan without leaving Europe

Did you know that Little Tokyo district of Düsseldorf is certainly the closest you can get to Japan without leaving Europe?
Since the 50s the Japanese settled in Düsseldorf for supplies of materials and machinery for rebuilding their country after World War II. Today, with more than 450 Japanese companies and 11,000 people, it is the third largest Japanese community in Europe. This has made the city a must-visit destination for all lovers of Japanese culture and cuisine.

Best of all is that Düsseldorf’s Japantown, popularly known as “Little Tokyo”, can be found on the intersection of Immermannstrasse with Oststrasse and its surroundings and can be covered on foot. When wandering the streets is easy to lose track of space-time and imagine crossing a Tokyo neighborhood, as it is full of ramen bars, teppanyakis, izakaya-style taverns, Japanese supermarkets and bakeries where you can try all sorts of buns as the melon bread.A few minutes by taxi you can also visit a couple of Zen gardens, one of which is the only Japanese-style Buddhist temple that has been built in Europe (Eko Haus, Brüggener Weg 6).

If you feel like making a quantum leap and landing in Japan without leaving Europe I suggest the following gastronomic route. As an anecdote I will tell you that in all places I can deal with Japanese without having to use English or German, and for a moment I forget that I was in Germany.

Hotel Nikko Düsseldorf

Immermannstrasse 41

Located at the heart of Little Tokyo, this superior 4 star hotel belongs to a prestigious Japanese hotel group. The Torii Bar in the hotel lobby is now a classic as a meeting point for the Japanese community in the city, because in the same building it is located the German-Japanese Centre. In the hotel itself is also found Benkay Restaurant, highly acclaimed by all as the best teppanyaki in town, and the sushi bar Fish Corner run by the cheff Hisato Mochizuki. It is to highlight a careful selection of sakes, where you can staste such delights as Dassai 23, the more refined sake that is produced, or Shimeharitsuru “Jun” of Niigata prefecture .

Takumi Takumi and 2nd

Immermannstrasse 28

Just opposite Nikko Hotel is located Takumi, a unique ramen bar where you can try 100% vegetarian ramen broth noodles. Possibly it is one of the only places in the world where you can taste ramen sitting on a terrace. A few meters away it is Takumi 2nd (Ostrasse 51), from the same owners, where you can also try tonkotsu miso ramen made with pork broth and miso or their delicious homemade gyoza dumplings.

Naniwa

Ostrasse 55

Another ramen bar, with a far more extensive menu where you should not miss Chashu Tokusei miso ramen or ramen “de lux” with miso and marinated pork slices. To round it up, you can ask them to add some wantan in the same bowl. Other curiosities include Chanpon, a bowl of noodles with crispy vegetables, typical of Nagasaki, or Tantan Men, spicy noodles that you must taste. On the opposite sidewalk is Naniwa Sushi & More, which, as its name suggests, you can order sushi and some other dish.

Yabase

Klosterstrasse 70

A simple restaurant, where many Japanese families get together to eat all kinds of authentic dishes such as Takosu or viengar-seasoned octopus; beef tongue grilled or Gyutan, a typical dish from Sendai; tebasaki fried chicken wings, or Kushikatsu breaded kebabs, very typical dish in Japanese taverns because it is very easy to share, where the kebabs are immersed in a communal tonkatsu sauce jar. Unwritten rule is that you may only dip once into the sauce before a bite.

Nagomi

Bismarckstrasse 53

I must confess I do not have time to try this establishment but I was totally delighted by its spacious sushi bar made ​​of wood and its design. Definitive proof was it was full of Japanese customers. Later on, the Bon owners, a Japanese bookstore located at Marienstrasse 41, confirmed it was one of the latest restaurants they just opened in the neighborhood and it was a very successful one. Another place I reserved for my next visit was Kagaya tavern (Potsdamer 60), an authentic izakaya where you can taste some of the best sakes with a ramen bowl or some other dish.

Nagaya

Klosterstrasse 42

The only Japanese restaurant with a Michelin star in Germany. The Japanese cuisine in combination with traditional European dishes and sushi are a must for all of these who consider themselves a gourmet. A few meters away is Soba-an (Klosterstrasse 68), run by Reiko Miyashita and her husband, who makes her own handmade soba noodles. An alternative to fast food that should not be missed.
If you are still hungry and you want to take a piece of Japan in your hand luggage, you can approach Shochiku supermarket (Immermannstrasse 15), where you will find all kind of tools and products such as sauces, dressings, Japanese curries and even a fish market where they prepare specific fish pieces to make sushi at home.

By Roger Ortuño

So you feel like visiting Düsseldorf, do you? Book your flights here!

 

 

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