Modern Seville
Holy Week, the Seville Fair and the endless bullfighting afternoons notwithstanding, Seville has also kept up with the times and become a modern, cosmopolitan city. A stroll through its streets reveals a blend of tradition and the latest trends coexisting amid the flavour and colourfulness for which Seville is famed.
Whether or not you have been to Seville before, you ought to know that the Cathedral, Real Alcázar, Torre del Oro and Triana Quarter are must-see landmarks. But, today, Seville is far more than that. It is a major hub of artistic creation and a place where you can delight in the sight of avant-garde buildings and Indie venues – welcome to modern Seville!
Where To Look
To find the more groundbreaking Seville, your epicentre is the Plaza de la Encarnación, in the heart of the central Alfalfa quarter. There you will come across the Metropol Parasol, better known as Las Setas, designed by the Berlin architect, Jürgen Mayer. The structure raised heckles even before it was built on account of such a groundbreaking design being earmarked for the old, historic centre. The complex is made up of a market, restaurants, a viewpoint and the amazing Antiquarium, an archaeological museum where visitors can view the Roman subsoil of the city.
Continuing along our route, we come to fashion stores and bars with alternative decoration in the Alameda de Hércules and surrounding area. On the Calle Feria, for instance, enthusiasts of second-hand garments – designer apparel or otherwise – should make a point of visiting such stores as Ropero Sevilla and Crispa2 vintage. Or, if you are a 50s furniture and decoration devotee, you are sure to find the odd curio in Retrogrado (C/ San Luis 81). In the El Arenal quarter, taverns with a long-standing tradition rub shoulders with contemporary art galleries. So, don’t be surprised if you get served a chamomile tea with a fusion tapa in some trendy bar. When in Seville, the best thing is to just switch off and let the city lead you where it will.
Modernity, 178 Metres Up
The Pelli Tower, located near Las Setas de la Encarnación and between the Triana quarter and La Cartuja, is the other major indicator that Seville is at the forefront of modern trends. But this skyscraper was controversial, too, as, apart from La Giralda, the city has never had tall buildings and the tower’s construction drew the criticism that it severed the horizontality of the skyline. A stroll through this area will also bring you within sight of the buildings left behind from Expo 92, an era which spawned such noteworthy constructions as the New Airport Terminal, designed by Rafael Moneo, the Santa Justa Train Station, by Cruz y Ortiz, and the famous Alamillo Bridge, by Santiago Calatrava.
Eating and Sleeping
Seville has a huge gastronomic assortment but, if you want to try a reworking of traditional culinary classics, Yebra is the restaurant to go for. Without luxuries or frills, it is the sort of eatery that only locals frequent. Go in, rub shoulders with the people and enjoy! La Macarena is one of the most grass-roots districts in the city and you will soon feel at home.
And, for your sleepover, there is the Gran Meliá Colón, a revamped Seville classic featuring furniture by designers of the likes of Philippe Starck, Marcel Wanders and Edra. Then you have the Eme Catedral Hotel, a 16th-century building with cutting-edge fixtures and fittings where you can relax and luxuriate like a true king.
All that’s left is for you to pack your bags and book your flight to Seville.
Text by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by losmininos
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Berlín by Panenka
Illustration by Pep Boatella pepboatella.com
Panenka, a soccer magazine anyone can read, transports us to other countries through their passion for the sport. This time they take us to the German capital where they show us their perfect eleven, both for those places related to the football game and for those touristic places.
SPORTING ELEVEN
1 Olympiastadion | Scenario where Jesse Owens gave four Olympic slapping to Adolf Hitler . It is worth just for this.
2 Alte Pumpe | A statue recalls here the old and charming Hertha stadium before the division of the city in August 1961.
3 Friedrich-Ludwig-Jahn-Sportpark |One ‘national’ stadium -that of the GDR, which was next to an international border- the Wall.
4 Alten Försterei | Fans of Union, Eastern rebel team, collectively and selflessly renewed this stadium of Bundesliga 2.
5 Dynamo | Miiss its past as a regime’s club. Instead of communist bureaucrats, now neo-Nazi fans support it at 9th Division.
6 Karl-Marx-Allee | On Good bye Lenin the reunified city celebrates 90′s Football World Championship in this avenue of Stalinist architecture.
7 Hanne am Zoo | Run by a Hertha and Bayern’s former central defender, this bar was here until it closed in 2010. One of the references for lots of football fans
8 Puerta de Brandeburgo | Every May hosts a massive party to mark the end of the German Cup (DFB Pokal).
9 Columna de la Victoria | The first thing that crossed the 40,000 participants in the Berlin Marathon, ideal for brand.
10 Germania 1888 | It proclaims the oldest football club in Germany. He has not done much in the past 125 years. Just survive.
11 Charlottenburg | Bourgeois neighborhood where Jerome Boateng grew.However, Kevin-Prince matured in Wedding, far more screwed.
TOURISTIC ELEVEN
A Potsdamer Platz |No Man’s Land during the Cold War, is now the city center. Houses the Berlinale in February.
B Unterwelt | World War II devastated 50% of the city. On this metro station you will visit one claustrophobic shelter.
C Alexanderplatz | The television tower, the tallest building in Berlin and fleeting vestige of the strength of the GDR in the 70s.
D Normanstrasse | Another memory of that country that no longer exists is the headquarters of the Stasi: it scares as much as Life of the others.
E Friedrichshain | Techno clubs at night and indie markets during the day. It is the youngest district in the youngest capital of Europe.
F Wansee | Who says that Berlin has no beach? In summer, the lake Wannsee are crammed, though green water no invite to swim.
G Carnaval de las Culturas | In May, the city explodes with the color and warmth of the multiethnic Carnival. Winter is over.
H Kreuzberg | A neighborhood that seems Istanbul, and holds a pretty cheap food market on Thursdays .
I Tempelhof | Old airport that nurtured Berliners during the 1948 air blockade decreed by Stalin.
J Club der Visionäre | Drink summer nights relaxed in this bar’s garden, in a bend of the Spree.
K PrenzlauerBerg | Frenchified streets full of small cafes and designer shops. More cool, impossible.Ilustración de Pep Boatella pepboatella.com
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