Santiago de Compostela in 10 Takes
Do you dream of taking home the best photos of Santiago? Buying postcards and books might be the quickest solution, but, if you enjoy taking your own pictures, you shouldn’t hesitate to embark on this eminently photogenic route through Compostela. Here are 10 of its most emblematic subjects.
1. Praza do Obradoiro
We admit you’d be hard put to capture its entirety, as it covers 7,700 square metres. Surrounded by monumental buildings, snapping a whole picture of the Praza do Obradoiro is no mean feat. A wide-angle shot of the portico of the Colexio de San Xerome will yield an image of the Cathedral – cloister and towers included – as well as the Pazo de Xelmírez, the front of the Hostal dos Reis Católicos and the Paxo de Raxoi to the left.
2. Cathedral Facade
The centre of the square is a reasonable viewpoint, as are the arcades of the Pazo de Raxoi, to stand square in front of the Cathedral, if you have a fish-eye lens. But, if you’re looking to take full-length photos with a normal lens, the trick is to go down the stairs of the Rúa de Raxoi, where you get a complete view of the facade with the towers. Ideal for group photos.
3. Goal and Excitement
While its monumental beauty tends to hog everyone’s gaze, the Praza do Obradoiro and its surroundings are indeed the most intensely exciting spots in all Santiago de Compostela. The arrival of pilgrims and the display of satisfaction at having achieved their goal are commonplace scenes in this privileged setting.
4. Bird’s-Eye View
The ascent to the Cathedral Rooftops, 30 metres above the Praza do Obradoiro, affords some of the best views of the squares surrounding the Cathedral, as well as revealing its architectural features and the rooftops and chimney stacks in the old town. The tapestry gallery in the cloister, which can be visited using your museum ticket, provides another fine perspective of the Obradoiro, and of the cityscape south of the Cathedral.
5. The Photogenic Quintana
The stark bareness of the Plaza de la Quintana takes on special significance with the interplay of light on the stone. Noon yields snapshots of the granite in all its hardness. Late afternoon throws the shadows of the spires and lantern of the Cathedral on the wall of the Convento de Antealtares. Night lighting turns the surface into a quasi aquatic medium, like some silent fish tank. You can also get good shots from the Casa da Conga arcades.
6. A Tiny Playhouse
Secluded and motley, the Plaza de las Platerías and its stairs provide splendid group snapshots all day long, thanks to the south-facing portal. In a low-angle shot, the horses on the fountain will seem to graze the Torre del Reloj. To capture the whole square, you have to backpedal to the entrance to the Rúa do Vilar. If you have a wide-angle lens, use the towers to frame the shot. Night light endows the Casa del Cabildo and the stepped cloister tower with a special relief when seen from the church door.
7. Streets and Towers
The rúas (streets) in the monumental site are rich showcases of typical Galician architecture. The Torre de las Campanas or Belltower can be photographed from the middle and upper stretches of the Rúa do Franco. The Rúa do Vilar, flush with the Airas Nunes Café, provides a classic view of the arcades and main facades, with the Torre del Reloj or Clocktower in the background. The parallel street, Rúa Nova, affords a picture postcard view of the porticoed houses around the tower of the Church of Santa María Salomé.
8. The Bountiful Market
Getting back to the historic core, the Mercado de Abastos or market is abuzz with activity, particularly first thing in the morning, suggesting detailed portraits of myriad people and gastronomic delights. Between the green of peppers and turnip greens, the orange of the velvet crabs and the blue of the lobsters, your pictures will look almost aromatic.
9. A Park With a View
You get to Bonaval Park through the Porta do Camiño, between the CGAC and the Convento de Bonaval. There, Álvaro Siza and Isabel Aguirre designed a succession of platforms and terraces which are a delight for any photographer. They are highlighted by the shadows cast by trees, the ruins of old monastic dwellings, the spring, the old cemetery with its lone cypress tree… Late afternoon light is magical, revealing splendid views of the monumental precinct with back lighting. The best time is in autumn, when the landscape is carpeted with yellow, red and brown foliage and branches become denuded, revealing towers and sturdy chimneys in the distance. Extraordinary views of the city from its carballeira and the neighbouring Rúa de Bonaval, which in the afternoon reflects the sun’s rays like no other street.
10. Walkway To A Historic City
By proceeding down the Avenida de Xoán XXIII as far as the transport terminal you get a contrasting image between the contemporary layout of the long steel marquee and the back facade of the Convento de San Francisco. The pergola grows smaller as you approach the monumental area, creating the optical effect of having “entered” the historic city.
How long can you afford to put off enjoying such a beautiful setting, Come on – free up some space on your smartphone and start packing. Check out our flights here.
Text and images: Santiago de Compostela Turismo
more infoA Coruña’s Top Restaurants
Yet another year has passed and Galician cuisine is still on the ascendancy, having earned recognition in the Michelin Guide, one of the most prestigious and demanding in the world. Twelve restaurants in Galicia have earned that distinction, a tribute to their culinary talent. But, we’re going to focus on three of them, which happen to be in A Coruña. We’ll talk about the rest another time. Some overlook the sea; others, the green countryside. Some are inspired by cutting-edge trends; others, by tradition. All of them however, have a unique flavour – a markedly genuine, Galician flavour.
Alborada
(Paseo marítimo Alcalde Francisco Vázquez, 25. 15002 A Coruña)
Chef: Iván Domínguez
This restaurant is located on the seaside promenade skirting A Coruña, halfway between the Tower of Hercules and the Castle of San Antón. It is done out in modern, elegant fashion, with two dining-rooms overlooking the Atlantic, and a third, more secluded, private one. The decor is a blend of fine woods, cork and ironwork, as befits the luminosity of the spacious interior.
The fare on offer at Alborada is based on local Galician produce, particularly fish and seafood, prepared using current techniques. This is haute cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2010. The menu always features the day’s fish and seafood, accompanied by tasty vegetables in season. Lobster, crayfish, scallop, sea bass, hake, sole… the star is the sea. There are two menus of the day – the “classical” menu, featuring dishes that chart the restaurant’s evolution, and the “tasting menu” spotlighting the chef’s latest, most surprising creations. To round off the experience, Alborada also offers a wine list with over 600 items.
Árbore da Veira
(San Andrés, 109 bajo. 15003 A Coruña)
Chef: Luis Veira
Árbore da Veira is just a few paces from the water’s edge, so ideally you should let yourself be enveloped in the sea breeze. The ambience is warm, relaxing and spacious. There are few tables, light wood finish and furniture inspired by Nordic design. The tables are sans tablecloths and the crockery is stunning, with unique, handmade pieces. This is a happy world. Their chef, Luis Veira, takes you on an alluring culinary adventure. Drawing on the most innovative techniques, the gastronomic experience is designed for the pleasure of the senses. Veira’s motto is to forge ahead, and to integrate new techniques and produce, particularly if it comes from the sea. The result is an array of splendid, signature-cuisine dishes, albeit grounded in the Galician tradition.
A word of advice: here there is no à la carte, but a dynamic offering of two new and attractive menus of the day – “Raíces” (Roots), which includes 8 snacks, 10 main dishes and 8 desserts, and “Árbore”, made up of 8 snacks, 15 main dishes and 8 desserts. Quite a mouthful! In the end, you’re looking at some 30 culinary creations to be consumed in one session. And, the produce is in season, especially from the sea (6 of the dishes are based on seafood) and estuaries of Galicia – oysters, crayfish, scallop, periwinkles and codfish offal. As an alternative, the chef likes to offer the odd meat dish, with Galician beef and porco celta (Celtic pork ham) being his mainstays. The dishes – or “mouthfuls”, as Luis tends to call them – vary in terms of the market and his inspiration. When it comes to the wine list, Árbore adheres to the same approach – around 250 items which include 30 DOs (designation of origin), both Spanish and international, although Galician wines are dominant. The selection, renewed every three months, is impeccable and designed to combine with the chef’s stunning dishes. There are two matches proposed – in the mouth with 8 wines and on the palate with 12.
A Estación
(Estrada da Estación, 51. 15660 Cambre, A Coruña)
Chefs: Beatriz Sotelo and Xoán Crujeiras
This restaurant lies 15 km from the centre of A Coruña and is striking for its siting, as it occupies the canteen and storeroom of an erstwhile train station. We found the refurbished interior captivating, particularly for its lighting. During the day, the dining-room is bright and lively, with glazed fronting on both sides, as in the old train coaches. By night, the salon turns intimate and elegant, with small points of light evocative of the dinner atmosphere on the Orient Express.
The master-chef tandem base their approach on a combination of technique and creativity, passion and delicacy, sea and mountain. They also share a preference for sourcing local produce, but with a view to the future. The dishes at A Estación point to a harmony of culinary experience, knowledge and recollections. The menu features dishes for snacking and sharing, with starters, fish and meat in season, and tastings that may optionally match wines and are renewed each month. Produce here is always in season, traditional, organic, proximity produce sourced from local cooperatives or small producers.
A Coruña offers a host of incentives to captivate you and one of them is their cuisine. Come and taste the creations of their leading chefs. Check out our flights here.
Text by Turismo A Coruña
Images by Alborada, Árbore da Veira
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A Walk Through the Clouds
The island of Gran Canaria offers all the rural leisure amenities you can imagine and more, including adventure sports and trekking.
From Sea to Sky
One breathtaking route stretches from the Gran Canaria coast to the top of the island’s highest peak, a secluded spot which is the closest you’ll ever get to a lunar landscape. In the municipality of Tejeda, some 44 km from Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, you can easily find yourself trapped by a sea of clouds. Tejeda can be reached mainly by the Centro GC 15 main road, a somewhat winding route flanked by stunningly beautiful scenery which takes you through the towns of Santa Brígida and Vega de San Mateo. The most exciting part of the journey starts here, as you begin to climb so steeply that the clouds recede below you. The 44-km drive takes about an hour. It can also be reached by public transport from the Guaguas station in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.
El Roque Bentayga and the Archaeology Park
Tejeda is a must-see if you come to Gran Canaria and more so if you’re interested in archaeology. Here you can find vestiges of burial caves, rock carvings, paintings and dwellings. The Roque Bentayga provides an excellent sampling of all this. This unique, natural rock precinct was sacred to the original inhabitants, as it was here that they prayed to their gods. The Parque Arqueológico del Bentayga is an ecomuseum built next to the Roque. It also serves as a venue for performances, both for the archaeological rock complex (Bentayga, Andén de Tabacalete, Cuevas del Rey and the Roquete) and its surroundings. It also affords wonderful views of the southern and western reaches of the island.
Culture and Mysticism
The symbol of Gran Canaria is also to be found at Tejeda. This is the Roque Nublo, a huge basalt rock in the form of a monolith stretching 70 metres into the air. On its north-eastern side stands another monolithic rock known as El Fraile (the Friar), as it physically resembles a monk. While you’re here, take the chance to roam through the Inagua and Ojeda pine forests and, further north, that of los Pechos, for here you are bound to fall in love with the views.
Art and culture also make their presence felt in Tejeda. Here you can visit the Abraham Cárdenes Sculpture Museum, dedicated to this Canary Island sculptor, who hailed from here, and also the Ethnographic Museum, where you go on a journey of the town’s and the island’s history. Here, too, the Degollada de Becerra is another spot well worth visiting. It is situated on the main road between La Cruz de Tejeda and los Llanos de la Pez, and features a viewpoint affording spectacular scenery and, more importantly, a centre where you can learn about local ethnography. Lastly, the town boasts a Centro de Plantas Medicinales, where you are invited to discover the varieties of plants, herbs and flowers indigenous to Tejeda and the island and their varied use in medicine, religion and cosmetics.
Gastronomy
Establishments in Tejeda centre offer all types of craftwork and you can also find the typical sweets made here. You are also advised to stop at one of the bar terraces and restaurants located on the side of the Parador Nacional, a magnificent vantage point providing spectacular views of the whole island.
Almonds play a major role in the cuisine of Tejeda, a town which has become one of the landmarks of Canary Island confectionery, noteworthy among which are the bienmesabes and marzipans. Both sweets are made using ground almond, the former also being one of the traditional accompaniments of local iced desserts. In Tejeda you can also sample any of the Canary Islands’ traditional dishes, the mainstay of which are beef and goat’s meat. Make sure to try such dishes as the caldos de papas (potato soup) and the potajes de berros y jaramagos (watercress and hedge mustard stews). If you’d like to sample good local cooking, a restaurant you should not miss is the Cueva de la Tea, where you can order a potaje de berros and their speciality, ropa vieja– chick peas, potato, hog’s head, chicken, tomatoes, peppers and onion. The average price per head is 12 euros and the helpings are generous. It also has the advantage of affording spectacular views.
What’s holding you back? Check out our flights here.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images byPatronato de Turismo de Gran Canaria
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Santiago A Passion For Sweets
Holy Week is a festivity accompanied by a long culinary tradition, among other things. Some of its hallmarks include confectionery and desserts, which adopt a host of guises across the geography of Spain. Not to be outdone, Santiago de Compostela, a city of fine food, has its own versions, as evinced in the gems created by different local religious orders, those inherited from the city’s long chocolatiering tradition and imports from the Americas, which have spread all over Europe via the Road to Santiago.
In an effort to keep this tradition alive and provide enjoyment for locals and visitors alike, the second edition of a gastronomic event catering to the sweet-toothed known as Santiago Paixón Doce will be held from 7 to 17 April. For the duration of this festivity, some 29 venues, notably bars, cafés and restaurants, will be offering a special menu laced with traditional Holy Week fare, among which confectionery features prominently. Highlights include torrijas (a kind of French bread), leche frita (literally, “fried milk”), buñuelos (fritters), rosquillas (a ring-shaped pastry), melindres (buns), roscas (a kind of doughnut), “passion chocolates”, cakes and other confectionery typical at this time of year. Check out the list of venues taking part in this tasty experience here.
Eight Delicacies in the Compostelan Holy Week
For those not familiar with Santiago de Compostela’s Holy Week culinary tradition, we have drawn up a selection of the confectionery you simply must taste on your visit to the city. Take note!
1. Concha de Santiago (St James Shell)
This is a veritable tribute to the city of Santiago de Compostela, as it features its paramount symbol, the pilgrim’s scallop shell or viera worked into a delicious chocolate figure. One of the many establishments where you can taste the concha de Santiago is the Chocolat Factory, located in the Praza do Toural.
2. Tarta de Santiago (St James Cake)
With its origins going back to the 16th century, the tarta de Santiago is unquestionably the most popular cake in Santiago de Compostela. Needless to say, you can find it in all the city’s pastry shops and bakeries, from Las Colonias – with its long-standing tradition – to Á Casa Mora, said to be the artificers of the Cross of St James having been incorporated into the cake.
3. Chocolate a la taza
As mentioned earlier, Santiago is a city with a long-standing tradition of chocolatiers. One of the local favourites is “chocolate a la taza”, which is thick hot chocolate for dunking churros (fritters) in. A classic spot for savouring this wonderful delicacy is the Chocolatería Metate (Rúa do Preguntoiro, 12).
4. Monastic Delights
In bygone times, it fell to the religious orders to introduce foreign traditions to Compostela, including the recipes using almonds and egg yolk, which had a marked influence on local confectionery and ended up spawning both the tarta de Santiago and almendrados (macaroons). There are currently two convents in Santiago which still make their own confectionery. One is the Antealtares Monastery, where the Benedictines make almendrados, tarta de Santiago and cookies, all of which are available on a daily basis, and brazo de gitano, a kind of Swiss roll which is made only to order. The other is Belvís Convent, where the Dominicans make bespoke batches of almendrados, mantecados (a kind of shortbread made with lard)and tarta de Santiago, as well as selling freshly baked cookies.
5. Cheese and Chocolate Cakes
We recommend you drop in on the Airas Nunes Café, which specialises in homemade cakes and tortiñas (milk tarts).
6. Assorted “Pecados” (Sins)
The Cantón del Toural is home to the so-called Pecados de Compostela (Sins of Compostela), a unique type of candy wrapped in seven forms to match the seven deadly sins, one for each day of the week. Be a daredevil and try them!
7. Xacobea
Despite having very similar ingredients to the Easter cake known as the rosca de Pascua,the Xacobea is moister as it contains syrup. Available in numerous pastry shops dotted about the city, notably La Estrella (Suevia).
8. Rosquilla
The rosquilla, also known as a melindre, typically eaten at traditional shrine festivals in Galicia, is also a classic of Holy Week and Easter in Galicia. Sold at a host of venues in Santiago de Compostela.
Text and photos by Turismo de Santiago
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