Spend two hours in Nice
By Michael Schuermann from Easy Hiker
The French Riviera is best understood not as a region or an area but as a single town, a thin coastal strip of settlements never more than a kilometre deep that is stretched out over a distance of 50 miles, like an extruded French version of Los Angeles.
With two hours in Nice, the capital of the French Riviera, you can even play the game “which is which” – with Monaco standing in for Beverly Hills, Cannes rivalling Hollywood in movie star glamour and Menton probably coming closest to the more charming LA neigbourhoods such as Santa Monica or Venice.
And Nice, the largest town on the Côte d’Azur, would undoubtedly be the equivalent of downtown L.A.
If you are an American, you would probably find nothing strange about visiting the French Riviera without going to see its “capital” at least once. I have a friend who lived in LA for five years and had never once been to the downtown area. For Europeans like me, that is a strange, strange thought.
So we did go to Nice for a day-trip, and so should you if you can.
There are more glamorous towns along the coast, cuter ones too, but few that put all the things that make the French Riviera so great into a single, tight package: urbanity, openness, glamour, beaches. Nice has got it all.
Start at the train station, cross the road and head straight down the Avenue Durante to the beach promenade, ……
… the Promenade des Anglais, probably the most famous street along the Côte d’Azur. Take a brief turn to the right for a look at the Hotel Negresco and its famous pink cupola, rumoured to have been modelled after, ahem, les gazongas of the architect’s mistress (oh, the Belle Epoque!)…
… and the equally splendid Hotel Maison de la Mediterranee before turning back along the coast in the direction of the Old Town.
Key sites include the magnificent Opera on Rue Saint Francois de Paule …
… the Cours Saleya with its daily markets of flowers and antiques …
… and the atmospheric Place du Palais with the Palais Rusca, one of the town’s most famous landmarks.
Once you have explored the Old Town a little, it should be just about the right time for lunch. We suggest you go into one of the many shops that serve a local specialty called Socca, aromatic pancakes made from chickpea flour baked in a wood-fired oven. Served with nothing but a pinch of salt and pepper, it’s simply delicious.
If you have had any doubt as to whether Nice is an Italian town or not: Place Garibaldi with its colonnades and a statue of Italy’s national hero – who was actually born in Nice (when the town was still a part of Italy) –will provide you with all the evidence you need.
Walk from here to the Place Massena, another of the city’s main squares …
… and finally down Avenue Jean Medecin, the city’s main shopping street, back to the train station.
There are many sites for which you will not find the time within a two hour visit, such as the famous orthodox church (you will get a tempting glimpse when you depart or arrive by train), but you can always come back, of course. We know that we certainly will.
By Michael Schuermann from Easy Hiker
Why not take a trip to Nice? Have a look at our flights here!
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To the Carnival Beat in Tenerife
No question about it – there is one time in the year when Santa Cruz de Tenerife comes alive, and that is at Carnival time. It is world famous, extremely popular and one of the biggest on earth, rivalling Carnival in Rio de Janeiro (it’s twin city) and Venice. Tourists, sightseers and fun lovers who head for this spot in the Canary Island archipelago end up hopelessly drawn in by the beat, the dazzle and the colour of this splendid fiesta. Lasting for a month, it features a host of activities showcasing mainly music and fancy dress.
This time around, the Carnival of Santa Cruz de Tenerife lasts from 1 February to 5 March. As in previous years, thousands of people in fancy dress roam the streets, eager to fall under the spell of Carnival magic. The festivities are hosted by over a hundred groups of around fifty people each, compering murgas (ensembles singing to satirical lyrics), comparsas (dancing carnival troupes), fancy dress groups, rondallas (street bands) and musical troupes – quite a feat! Take note of the following rundown of the highlights of the Tenerife Carnival for your requisite getaway.
The Carnival Queen
One of the loveliest moments in the Santa Cruz de Tenerife Carnival is the Gran Gala, at which the Carnival Queen is elected. Beholding the spectacular costumes studded with rhinestones, glittering ornaments and elegant feathers is a magical experience. Amazingly, those costumes can weigh up to between 150 and 200 kilos and have to be transported on wheels. A stunning, must-see extravaganza!
The Opening Horse Parade
As its name suggests, this event marks the start of Carnival and what better way to get the ball rolling? In style, with a spectacular horse parade at which all the Carnival troupes march past, including the queens and maids of honour, who ride in carriages escorted by the troupes. Four hours of rhythmic percussion and Latin beat which extend well into the night.
Carnival Saturday
Another date to jot down on your Carnival agenda is Carnival Saturday, when the streets of the city again become inundated with music and dance. Most of the activity is centred around the Plaza de la Candelaria, the Plaza del Príncipe and the Plaza de Europa.
The Gran Coso Apoteosis
This celebration, the veritable closing ceremony of Carnival in Santa Cruz de Tenerife, is possibly one of the most exciting moments in the festivities. It is the day all the carnival troupes, carriages, floats and queens parade along the Avenida de Anaga, marking the grand finale of Carnival proceedings.
Ash Wednesday
Like any Carnival worth its salt, the arrival of Lent is heralded by the “burial of the sardine”. The event takes place in the main city streets, suitably draped in mourning, with balconies sporting black ribbons. A giant sardine is paraded through the streets, before being ceremoniously burned at the end of its itinerary. The Tinerfeños or inhabitants of Tenerife bid farewell to Carnival by staging their sorrow in the form of a lament, although they also mark the occasion in comical satire and by lampooning the Church. So, don’t be surprised if, while wandering through the streets, you come across people dressed up mostly as priests, bishops or monks carrying sexual props of all kinds.
Book your Vueling to Tenerife, don your fancy dress and get into festive mood as you attend one of the most popular Carnivals in the world.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Image by Philippe Teuwen
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5 Charming Terraces on the Alsace Wine Route
The Alsace Wine Route is speckled with numerous wine cellars where you can taste the famed wines of this French region. And, if you’re travelling with family, friends or your partner, you can opt to discover the world of winemaking through a series of leisure activities in a number of delightful towns and villages, some of them regarded as among the most beautiful in France. You will also come across an endless array of restaurants, from Michelin-starred establishments to the typical winstubs, a kind of bistro offering traditional cuisine from locally sourced products in a relaxed setting. And, seated at a terrace café, to wit. Take note of these venues, which we can highly recommend.
La Nouvelle Auberge
This former post office is located between the cities of Colmar and Munster. The ground floor features a bistro offering market cuisine at moderate prices. The first floor is given over to an acclaimed, award-winning gourmet restaurant, with the subtle creations of a chef who combines cutting-edge technique with simple Alsatian recipes, conditioned solely by seasonality and in line with the slow-food movement, of which La Nouvelle Auberge is a member. They offer four tasting menus with different dishes every day, depending on what the freshest produce from local producers happens to be. Some of their specialities include snail soup with garlic and parsley, oxtail consommé, smoked river fish fillet in red wine sauce and snail paté on toast, all paired with local wines. The interior design is that of a traditional, half-timbered Alsatian home, while the establishment boasts a pleasant, quiet, shady terrace set in natural surroundings.
Avenue 294
A comfortable, inviting establishment with refined decor where the chef crafts new suggestions every day, over and above a menu which is both contemporary and traditionally inspired. Special mention goes to the homemade desserts – watch out for the seasonal fruit tarts – and their wine list, extensive and with acclaimed local wines. As soon as the morning sun peeps through, they open a terrace behind the lovely red house that is Avenue 294. They have comfortable easy chairs and a plant-fringed area suited to having a last drink, for example. Pleasant ambient music accompanies the experience. A gourmet venue in a perfect setting you won’t want to leave.
Hôtel Beauséjour
A five minutes’ walk from the centre of the picturesque city that is Colmar – also known as “Little Venice” for its canals – you can relax in the garden-terrace of this establishment, owned by the Keller family, the fifth generation of restaurateurs. Their cuisine, based on seasonal products, is refined and very Alsatian, as evinced in the homemade foie gras with Gewürztraminer wine gelatine, or their organic five-meat sauerkraut. However, the standout feature of this restaurant-hotel is the interior patio, sited in a garden full of trees and flowers, totally cut off from the rest of the city.
Wistub Brenner
A genuine old-time Alsatian winstub located in the heart of Colmar. They offer the authentic – most compelling – local dishes, including sauerkraut, onion tart, Munster cheese salad and duck magret, cream cheese and potatoes and beef tripe with Riesling. We loved their beautiful, flower-filled urban terrace where you needn’t hesitate to spend a long after-meal sipping those fabulous white wines from Alsace, served in glasses with a green foot.
Le Cerf
Marlenheim, the first town you come to on the Alsace Wine Route if you start off from Strasbourg, has some great wine cellars and a great restaurant – Le Cerf. This establishment, which doubles as a hotel, has been run by the Husser family since 1930. It combines rustic interior design with avant-garde cuisine, which has earned it a Michelin star. Theirs is top-drawer cuisine, featuring regional dishes crafted using contemporary techniques, attested by the likes of sauerkraut or bouchées à la reine (stuffed vol-au-vent), and such international dishes as ravioli au foie gras or oxtail sashimi ramen, served up amid surrounding vineyards. Their terrace is a central patio where local red geraniums lend a touch of charm.
Book your Vueling to Basel, an hour and a half from the start of the Alsace Wine Route, and be sure to soak up the views in some of these magnificent terraces while tasting their delicious cuisine.
Text by Laia Zieger de Gastronomistas
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Versailles House of The Sun King
When you first set eyes on Versailles, you realise why it was the jewel in Louis XIV’s crown. Starting with what had been his father’s hunting lodge, the Sun King had Europe’s largest palace built. The opulent interiors and splendid gardens could accommodate up to 20,000 people. The king had the leading artists and architects at his disposal – Louis Le Vau and Hardouin-Mansart designed the building; Charles Le Brun, the interiors, while André Le Nôtre remodelled the gardens. Everything was ready to receive the court.
Europe’s Largest Palace
The main rooms in the residence were on the first floor. There we find the Chambers of the King and Queen, arranged around the Marble Court, the latter set behind the last railing in the access to the palace from the street. If you have seen films like Marie Antoinette, by Sofia Coppola, or the television series, Versailles (we can wholeheartedly recommend both), you will know that their chambers were anything but private. The queens of France used to give birth before the court, while the kings went through the daily waking routine known as le lever du Roi (the king’s rising), attended by courtiers and family members, who came to see the monarch getting up.
The king had areas where he worked, including the Council Chamber, where he received his ministers and family, or the room known as the Louis XVI Library, characterised by the sovereign’s globe of the world and its priceless Neoclassical panelling. The chambers of the king and queen are connected by the Antechamber or Oeil-de-boeuf(Bull’s-eye)Roomon account of the large round window. The story goes that, on the night of 6 October 1789, when a group of revolutionaries stormed the palace in search of Queen Marie Antionette, she fled through this room to her husband’s chamber and safety. The following day they abandoned the palace forever.
Also on the first floor, on the side of the palace giving onto the gardens, are the State Apartments. The most famous of these is the 73-metre-long Hall of Mirrors, with its views over the gardens, where major official ceremonies were held. It was there that in 1919 the Treaty of Versailles was signed, marking an end to World War I. Other rooms well worth seeing include the War Drawing Room, located next to the Hall of Mirrors and featuring a large relief of Louis XIV on horseback trampling his enemies under foot, the Apollo Drawing Room and the Hercules Drawing Room, which houses the monumental painting, Feast in the House of Simon, by Veronese, a gift from the Republic of Venice to Louis XIV.
Household Chapel and Opéra Royal
Also on the first floor is access to the Royal Chapel, used by the king and his family, and to the Battles Gallery, the outcome of a renovation by Louis-Philippe on former apartments used by nobles. It was turned into a gallery of historical paintings housing works by the likes of Delacriox and Gérard.
A must-visit site on the ground floor are the priceless Apartments of the Mesdames Adélaïde and Victoire, the daughters of Louis XV, who never married and lived here until the time of the Revolution.
Another grand edifice in the Palace of Versailles is the Opéra Royal. This theatre, built in 1770 to mark the engagement of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, is not open to the public. It does, however, host an interesting opera season which is the perfect excuse to spend an evening there and feel like a regular courtier.
Gardens, Fountains and Lost Palaces
After a visit to the palace, the best thing is to wander around the huge gardens and enjoy the fountains. Various shows are staged on different days, so it is worth checking out the programme before planning your visit.
The gardens are laid out in formal fashion, with geometrically-shaped pathways lined with tree groves, hedges, flowers, fountains and ponds. Fountains such as Neptune, Latona, the Colonnade and the Dragon Fountain provide some of the most impressive sights. It is rewarding to stroll among them and end off by heading for the Trianon, one of the jewels of Versailles. Here you will find two buildings – the Grand Trianon, a palace commissioned by Louis XIV as a retreat from court life and to host his mistresses, and the Petit Trianon, built for Louis XV but which became Marie Antoinette’s favourite retreat. She also had a quaint little theatre built in it. Be sure to also visit the Queen's Hamlet, where Louis XVI’s wife had an estate of twelve buildings modelled according to the aesthetic of a rural village, peasants and farm animals included. She would seek refuge here to get away from the demands of court life.
Book your Vueling to Paris and head for Versailles, which is just a half-hour’s train ride away. You won’t regret seeing such a splendid palace and feeling like a king for a few hours.
Text by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
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