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Reykjavik A Great Small City I

This, the first part of the post focuses on the rich music scene in the Icelandic capital. As we shall see, it is an enchanting, visitor-friendly city, full of contrasts.

To some extent, if you’ve only seen Reykjavik, you haven’t really seen Iceland. What you have seen, though, is its openness to the world, its warmer, more friendly side, making you feel comfortable despite being thousands of kilometres from home. For, once you leave the welcoming streets in Reykjavik’s city centre, the distances between built-up areas grow exponentially, with population centres distributed like in the United States. Reykjavik itself is the largest city on the island, with a population of 130,000 inhabitants – 215,000 if you include its surrounding areas. Once you leave the limits of Reykjavik, nature rules, but that is another story we will deal with some other time.

While the freezing winter temperatures preclude the sort of sightseeing we Mediterraneans are fond of, a visit to Reykjavik in spring, summer and early autumn can be a fantastic experience. In early October, temperatures in the city are still bearable for Spanish tourists, ranging from a minimum of two degrees to a maximum of ten. Well, that’s cold, but not untowardly so. With that in mind, and given the scarce sunlight hours, you will feel like walking up and down the street and peeking into the shop windows ranged one after the other in the city centre. Craft stores, fashion stores and boutiques with a huge variety of apparel. Those selling jerseys with colourful, handmade patterns come highly recommended. Then there are the restaurants, musical bars, art galleries and even record shops, making downtown Reykjavik a large business emporium, although worlds apart from the crowding of the large European city centres. Here, everything is carefully thought out, but endearingly so – shops all have their own personality and service is warm and friendly. You won’t be overwhelmed by ghetto-blasting piped music, endless queues or intrusive, frenzied marketing campaigns.

When you’re ready to grab a bite, your options range from strong-tasting local fare to Italian-style pizzas, like those served up at Primo Ristorante, while appetising Nordic- and Slavic-style soups are also much in vogue – be sure to visit Svarta Kaffi, at Laugavegur 54, where the soup is served in bread. Also worth trying are the hot dogs at Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur (Tryggvagata 1), a street stall where, according to George Clinton, they make the best hot dogs in the world. And, don’t worry about the service. Apart from the fact that you can come across people of various nationalities – among them, quite a few Spaniards – Icelanders are friendly yet discreet people. And, don’t be surprised if the waiters or waitresses seem very young by Spanish standards. While work may be considered ennobling, in Iceland they appear to have learned this earlier than in other European countries.

For those who don’t fancy walking about, Reykjavik has several bus lines covering the city centre and surrounding areas.

A trip to Iceland could start in the streets of Reykjavik and then strike out necessarily across the island, one of the most beautiful in the world for those seeking tranquility, a magical atmosphere and nature in the raw. In the city, buildings are painted in various colours, so you can come across one with blue walls adjoining another in stately white, tainted by the passage of time. In the wild, the white of snow and ice, the bright green of the vegetation, volcanic greys and browns and the one thousand and one hues of freely flowing waters combine to create a colour palette which underscores the majesty of this land’s natural surroundings, which Icelanders have long protected, a sentiment deep-seated in their hearts.

While your first port of call may be the city, you should also consider taking the chance to venture out into Iceland’s wild, free interior. To go no further, Reykjavik harbour provides numerous options of three- to five-hour boat rides to go whale-spotting. The idea is to observe various types of whales swimming freely in the cold Arctic waters; whales of different sizes, as well as an amazing variety of dolphins. But, don’t get your hopes up too fast – the animals aren’t just out there waiting for you to come along. It’s up to the gods of the sea whether you will be lucky enough to spot them, or whether your trip will be successful. Indeed, you are more likely to get the desired results by going on an outing to the areas where those “little Atlantic friars” the puffins live and nest. Some eight to ten million puffins are believed to inhabit the territory.

But, there is a lot more to do in a city like Reykjavik. From there you can watch the fantastic northern lights and, if you are lucky, you will coincide with one of the few occasions when the city lights are switched off to enhance everyone’s viewing experience of this natural wonder. You could also visit Hallgrímskirkja Church – with grey tones on the outside, and striking forms and interior spaces – or have a dip in the warm waters of any number of thermal baths, both in the city and outside it.

Our next post will focus on one of the most prolific and interesting music scenes on the planet. Fire up and discover the world’s northernmost capital – check out our flights here.

Text by Joan S. Luna (Mondo Sonoro)

Images by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

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9 panoramic views to fall in love with Asturias

It’s easy to fall in love with Asturias. Every step along its varied terrain, with continuous contrasts from mountains to valleys, going up the mountain peaks or enjoying the view over the coast, leaves us speechless.

This little guide includes some of the best panoramic views in the wide variety of landscapes in Asturias. Get your binoculars and prepare your camera to not miss a single detail of what you’ll be able to see.

Divine views at Santa María del Naranco.

By the mountainside of Santa María del Naranco there is a church named the same with an intense past that goes as far as the Middle Ages. The combination of a Pre-Roman church and the landscape of Asturias create a unique combination.

Oviedo and its Pre-Roman spots are nearby and at quick glance you can see the mythical Monsacro, knows for the old relics and the history of the monarchy in Asturias, or the stunning mountain range in Aramo.

The flow takes us by the Sella River.

Here is where one of the most famous sport events in the world takes place: the International Descent of the river Sella. But the rest of the year, Sella gifts us unique panoramic views, already along the national roadway that passes next to the river.

The setting by the river is great, with people practising kayak or walking by the forest. Going to the Sella riverside means spending a great day with your family or friends, surrounded by nature, which invites to have both a relaxed day but also having great fun.

Villaviciosa estuary. A land of dreams.

The natural estuary created by Villaviciosa river gifts us stunning panoramic views. At this beautiful natural spot, with a high ecological value, elements from the sea and the river get together offering a shelter to aquatic birds on migration. The place is perfect to practice many sports, take a swim or a relaxed walk by the riverside.

A path to enjoy all the marine atmosphere, with the flutter of birds, the fish and the sight of boats floating in the sea, and the feeling of delicious smells and flavours from fresh fish cooked and served in restaurants and cider houses in the area.

In Sariego, views over the valley.

From the viewpoint of Perriellos you can enjoy the immense beauty of Sariego valley. If the day is clear, it’s possible even to see the mountain ranges at Sueve or Peñamayor and the greatness of the Cantabian mountain range.

At the recreational area of Perriellos you can have a great day, organizing a picnic after a long walk and with a beautiful landscape all around.

A gift for the senses at Teixadal Lagoons.

At different highs around the Rabo de Asno peak, there are the lagoons of high pastures of Teixedal. These are hidden spots where the bears live that give great surprises for the senses.

At the natural park of Fuentes del Narcea, Degaña and Ibias we will discover all the lively nature of Asturias, in lagoons between beech and oak forests, with a rich animal and vegetal life.

The most photographed: Enol lake.

Photographers and travellers from all over the world have captured on images the Covadonga lakes. Enol and Ercina lakes, have the greatest view, both on spring or winter – when the snow is on the peaks, reflected in the freezing water – or the thousand different tones on fall. Anytime on the year the lakes are great and ready to be portrayed. From the viewpoint of Reina you’ll get stunning views of the area.

La Regalina, a watchtower overlooking the west coast

The chapel and the granary of Regalina create a lovely setting. For its excellent location, from here you can enjoy the best views of the west coast in Asturias as the look takes you from Cadavedo beach, at your feet, passing by many beaches, cliffs and coves, and to the oceanic ocean.

This is, undoubtedly, a great location to see the sunset.

Panoramic Quirós

With a long mountaineer and climber tradition, Quirós is one of the main mountain spots in Asturias. For the lovers of nature there are many possibilities in the route to discover high mountain meadows and lagoons in Canchongo, around the area Bárzana. This is a route that people at any level can follow and you’ll be surprised by the panoramic views along the way.

The Eo’s estuary at bird’s viewpoint

High places like Castropol or Figueras offer a unique view with all the beauty of the Eo’s estuary, an area catalogued as a Biosphere reserve.

The most adventurous that go into the mountains - at the Louteiro area – receive their reward: seeing panoramic views over the valley, with the town of Vegadeo at the back, and a stretch of the river to its mouth, with a view over the horizon to the Puente de los Santos.

Makes you want to go, right? Do it! Check out our prices here!

You will find more proposals to discover Asturias's natural paradise in its tourism web site.

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Eight Pointers for the Engadin Ski Marathon, Sir Norman Foster’s Favourite Race

What do an architect, cross-country skiing and a search for efficiency and sustainability have in common? I told you how I discovered the Engadin Ski Marathon after seeing the documentary, “How much does your building weigh, Mr. Foster?”. This film, which premiered in 2010, describes how the designs of Britain’s renowned architect, Norman Foster, evolved into sustainable and more efficient buildings. This documentary opens with epic scenes from the Engadin Ski Marathon, then cuts to feature a surprisingly athletic Norman Foster doing cross-country skiing, after which it fades to black and shows him calm and pensive, on the balcony of one of his works, Chesa Futura, which crowns St. Moritz. In its beginnings in 1969, just over 900 people took the start in the race, while this last time, 47 years after its inception, I was one of the nearly 14,000 participants. The experience was incredible and, if you’re curious, I can give you a few tips to get a better view of the race. By the way – St. Moritz is only 203 kilometres from Zürich.

1. Distinguishing classic from skating. It is important to know that cross-country skiing comes in two varieties. In the classic style you ski along a marked trail, while the skating technique involves skiing off-trail. The equipment and technique are different, too. In the skating or freestyle technique, you glide on the whole ski using longer poles, while in the classic style traction is provided by the base of the ski (waxed or wax-less scales). In some trials you can only ski in the classic style. Engadin allows both, the skaters keeping to the left, and the classic skiers to the right.

2. Prepare your technique to adapt to the terrain. The ski run is very pleasant because much of it is along a false flat, and the rises, although tough and technical, are also short. There are only a couple of downhills in the forest which can become taxing on account of the crowding. It is an approachable course on the whole, but you need to be an intermediate to really enjoy it.

3. It is not a course but a line race, and public transport is good. You don’t need to stay over in St. Moritz; neither do you have to drive there. Public transport takes you across the whole valley and is good. You only need to secure accommodation and commute to the villages traversed by the run.

4. Use the occasion to try out all types of skiing. You are in the Alps and it is easy to try out everything here. You don’t have to limit yourself to St. Moritz either, as there are ski stations on the way to Zürich such as Lenzerheide, which we went to. These are more accessible, less crowded and ideal for skiing both on the runs and off-piste.

5. Check the weather forecast for the day of the race and allow for it. If it’s sunny, as it was this year, a single layer is enough, and on top of that a waistcoat, at the most. It is essential to keep hydrated and use sun block.

6. Head for the ski run with the minimum. On the day of the race, they will give you a bag to leave at the start, depending on your number time. Arrive with your ski boots on, your skis out of the bag, fastened with Velcro and keep your gear to a minimum.

7. Warm nourishment. There are fueling stations along the whole course, but you are advised to bring your own flask in a hip pack typically used for cross-country skiing. The race is sponsored by ISOSTAR but, beware – the drink they give you is warm, like tea.

8. The after race has been invented and it is called Après Ski. In my last post about Ironman Lanzarote you will have noticed I am a stickler for preparing ahead. But, in St. Moritz, I would say you don’t need to organise much. Either you hang around for the party they throw at Zuoz, or go straight up to St. Moritz and eat in the sun on a terrace and have a drink while listening to music afterwards. I am not talking about clubbing, but about chilling out.

After spending those days in Switzerland, I realised they love sports but, if skiing is not your thing, don’t worry, because I have these other plans which are a good excuse for coming along anyway.

- 19 April: Zürich Marathon, where you can either run the whole marathon or in a team.
- 9 May: Sola Race, where mixed teams of at least 2 women and a maximum of 8 team members run a distance of 116 km in 14 legs.
- 19 July: Ironman Zürich. Swimming in Lake Zürich. The course is beautiful, which means that entry tickets to the race run out fast.
- 19 August: Swimming Across the Lake. A 1,500 m race, from Mythenquai to Tiefenbrunnen. The date varies, depending on the weather.
- 26-27 September: Freestyle.ch. Artificial snow ramps for BMX, skiing, motor acrobatics and snowboarding freestylers.

While man does not live by sport alone, and I am not one given to visiting monuments, I would recommend you stroll around the town centre and try one of two “dinner + drink plan” options. Or else, the world’s oldest vegetarian eatery, HILTL, dating from 1898, or the Widder Bar, which doubles as a hotel. They’re open as a restaurant and club. They are good, less touristy options than visiting the train station – while it is stunning, you won’t see any Swiss people walking about there.

Looking ahead, the next Engadin Ski Marathon is on 13 March 2016. Come along to discover Swiss-style sports. Book your flight here.

Text by Raúl Casañas

Images by Pello Osoro, Andy Mettler, Nigel Young / Foster + Partners

 

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