10 tips for foodies in Copenhagen
By Isabel Loscertales from Gastronomistas
Small, pretty and laid-back, the Danish capital is the perfect destination to enjoy a culinary break. Noma, voted best restaurant in the world three years in a row (2010-2012) and with two Michelin stars, put the city on the international gourmet map and revolutionised the country's cuisine. But there's more foodie heaven beyond Noma. Copenhagen is proud of its desire to update tradition, its love for all things organic, its 'hygge' spirit (pretty, cosy ambience), its passion for design, its sun terraces... Between mouthfuls, make sure not to miss a stroll along Strøget shopping street, the colourful Nyhavn canal or the Tivoli Gardens; take a selfie with the Little Mermaid; explore the liveliest neighbourhoods: Vesterbro and Nørrebro; or wander around the independent area of Christiania - the centre of counter-culture. Go on foot or, like the locals, ride a bike. Here are ten tasty stop-offs for you:
1. New Danish cuisine
If you have plenty to spend, make sure you try and book for Noma online (Strandgade, 93). The chef, René Redzepi, was a pioneer in updating traditional Danish cuisine and recovering local ingredients with a special penchant for all things organic, natural and raw (wild herbs, etc.). He signed the New Kitchen Manifesto in 2004 (à la Lars von Trier) with other chefs which stirred up some trouble. If you do not fancy spending 1600 kroner (around €193) for the set menu (wine not included), you can always have a nosy at the old warehouse where it is located, on the Christianshavn wharf. If it's full, try the two starred Geranium run by Rasmus Kofoed (Per Henrik Lings Allé 4, 8º)
If you're on a tighter budget, we recommend Höst (Nørre Farimagsgade, 41), a cosy restaurant that won the best design in the world award at the Restaurant & Bar Design Awards 2013. A spot-on combination of industrial interior design (warehouse like) and rural touches (some details evoking a farmhouse), and a lively-cum-intimate ambience are the two main features here whose raison d'être comes from these contrasts. For example, the ceiling is made from (recycled) wood and the floor is concrete. Spread over two floors and several rooms, we recommend ordering the set menu (actually, the rest of the menu is fairly short). It comes in at 295 kroner (around €35, wine not included) and offers two dishes and dessert, as well as several surprise amuse-bouches. Try the trout with black chanterelles, cauliflower (uncooked slices), mushroom jus and lots of fresh herbs as a starter; beef shank with mashed potato, carpaccio, beetroot and Madagascar pepper sauce for your main; and Jerusalem artichoke ice cream with an apple, muesli, meringue, sautéed Jerusalem artichoke slices and crunchy caramel crumble. Surprising delicious mixes.
2. Jaeggerborgade Street, as 'in' as it gets
In the multicultural neighbourhood of Nørrebro is the city's hipster-filled street with rows of fantastic spots. In addition to vintage clothes stores, second hand book shops, décor and design boutiques, and art and record shops, there are a few essential foodie outlets. Coffee Collection, at number 10, serves the best coffee in the city thanks to skilled baristas and fair trade coffee. An aromatic spot indeed! The premises itself are very interesting, breaking down traditional barriers meaning you'll find a young guy making coffee as if he were in his own kitchen, with no bar and a huge coffee grinder next to him. The well-respected chef Christian Puglisi (ex-Noma and elBulli) has two highly recommended spots facing one another: Relae (no. 41), with a Michelin star and serving two set menus (one for meat eaters, one for vegetarians) for around €46 not including wine, and Manfreds & Vin (no.40), specialising in natural wines and tapas. In addition, there's the artisan chocolate shop Ro Chokolade (no. 25), the handmade sweets at Karamelleriet by Ipsen /Vigel (no. 36) and the organic bakery Meyers Bageri (no. 9), run by Claus Meyer (co-owner of Noma alongside Rene).
3. Meatpacking District: Industrial cool
The other fashionable neighbourhood is Vesterbro that hides a converted industrial area home to a gourmet oasis for hipsters in pure New York style (nor for nothing does it share the same name as the NYC district). The funny thing is that in Copenhagen, the area is still home to real meatpacking businesses. In addition to the very popular Kødbyens Fiskebar (Flæsketorvet, 100), an industrial premises serving seafood, and the huge Italian terrace Mother, inviting you to spend hours in the sun (Høkerboderne, 9-15), there is the organic BioMio (Halmtorvet, 19). Located in a former Bosch appliance workshop that still has the neon lights on the front, it houses a large room with communal wooden tables and an open kitchen. The menu offers organic international cuisine with dishes to share (such as green beans with celeriac or salmon rillettes), a couple of woks, half a dozen "knife and fork" dishes (the kamut wheat risotto is excellent) and several natural options. Prices average around €35.
4. Hipster bars for hipster city
Still in Vesterbro (although beyond the Meatpacking District), there is a couple of bars (amongst others) for taking a break. On the one hand, the Cafe Granola (Vaernedamsvej, 5) has coffees, juices, milkshakes, breakfasts, sandwiches and cocktails in a relaxed atmosphere playing Motown in the background. On the other, the modern anti-design Bang & Jensen (Istedgade, 130). Famous for its wall with a painting of a sailor re-done in different artistic styles, cool youngsters come here for a quick bit or cocktail at the rickety tables and chairs.
5. La Glace: The most famous cake shop
Copenhagen's oldest cake shop (Conditori) is also famous for being Hans Christian Andersen's favourite. Enjoy its handmade cakes in a classically charming ambience. Its speciality, The Sports Cake, was create in 1891 for the play 'Sports Man' and is made from nougat, whipped cream and caramelised choux pastry. A recommended calorie-filled temptation. Skoubogade, 3.
6. The smørrebrød or open sandwich
It is one of the best known Danish dishes and ideal for a reasonably priced informal meal (Copenhagen is not exactly known for being a cheap city). It comprises a slice of bread and butter topped with different ingredients: smoked fish such as salmon or kipper, cold cuts, pâtés, eggs... alongside some type of pickle or extra something (capers, onion, dressing...). It can be enjoyed at traditional spots such as the Ida Davidsen (Store Kongensgade, 70) or the always busy Schønnemann (Hauser Plads, 16). Some chefs have even come up with updated versions, adding a more foodie touch. This is true for Adam Aaman who, after his success in Copenhagen (Øster Farimagsgade,10), has opened an Aamanns branch in New York.
7. Shooping: Torvehallerne & Royal Copenhguen
Luxury-loving palates can take away a gastronomic souvenir from the modern Torvehallerne market, in Israel Plads square (currently all upside down due to construction work). Encased in glass and split into two structures, the market offers all kinds of gourmet spots and small stands where you can grab a taste of something interesting. If you prefer a 'solid' souvenir, the artisan pottery from Royal Copenhaguen is renowned (the window displays are well worth a look). Amagertorv, 6.
8. Chic wineries
Two popular spots to have a wine in Copenhagen, in addition to the aforementioned Manfreds & Vin. On the one hand, Atelier September (Gothersgade, 30) is a charming former antique shop turned into a café and shop. You can try a natural wine in a cosy atmosphere with a stimulating mix of furniture and artistic original posters (when we were there, we saw a giant Tàpies one), all for sale. It also serves breakfasts and light meals. On the other, Bibendum (Nansensgade, 45) is a pretty intimate French-inspired spot that takes its name from Michelin's dog. As well as choosing from its selection of international wines by the bottle or glass, the tapas come highly recommended.
9. Carlsberg lager
No matter how much they craft their wine lists, the truth is Denmark does not have great wines. So what they do is make beer. Larger fans have a must-see in the city: the Carlsberg Brewery (two entrances: Gamle Carlsberg Vej, 11 or Bryggerhesten, 1), one of the most famous in the world. They offer guided tours lasting around 90 minutes that of course include a tasting. We also tried another highly aromatic full-bodied Danish beer, Nørrebro Bryghus, made in a small brewery. It is easy to find in different bars and restaurants although it also has its own place (Ryesgade, 3).
10. At the epicentre: Andersen Hotel
This new boutique hotel has three things we love: design, comfort and location. Tucked behind the Tivoli Gardens and next to the trendy Meatpacking District, in the heart of Vesterbro, it is an ideal starting point for exploring different areas in the city. Check if they have any bikes available if you fancy travelling on two wheels. Before heading out, take your time with the tasty hearty breakfast with endless combinations for a personal yoghurt flavour, different organic choices and delicious croissants. From 925 kroner (around €111) per night for a double room. Helgolandsgade, 12.
So you feel like visiting Copenhagen, do you? Book your flights here!
more infoSmoked beer in Bamberg
By Oriol Salvador from scannerFM
Almost as important to anyone who visits the city of Bamberg, about one hour from Nuremburg, as discovering its historic and architectural heritage (the thousand-year-old cathedral, for example) is discovering the history of its beer: smoked beer (or Rauchbier in German).
It is a traditionally-made beer that is typical of Bamberg. The dark colour and smoky flavour is caused by leaving the malt to dry by fire during the production process. There are nine traditional breweries still in full operation in Bamberg, which produce a total of fifteen different types of smoked beer.
As part of the many attractions of paying a visit to the city of Bamberg, here we propose a quick tour to discover the traditional breweries that are dotted throughout the city and to try out the Rauchbier offered at each one.
Do we need to remind you to drink responsibly?
Klosterbräu
This brewery was established in 1533. It is a good place to start because it is not far from the city centre. Besides the good service and the friendly staff, you can try out the smoked beer they make on the premises and combine it with something from their extensive offer of traditional German cuisine. If the weather is favourable, you can even enjoy your beer at one of the tables on the streetside terrace.
One of the varieties they offer (and our recommendation) is the Klosterbräu Bockbier: a strong beer, with a subtle hint of hops, a great body and a certain sweetness to it. It has a 7% alcohol content and forms an excellent head over the golden liquid.
Open every day from 11:00 to 14:00 (Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays until 14:30) and from 17:00 and 22:00 (Sundays until 21:00). Further information: www.klosterbraeu.de (in German)
Ambräusianum
A young couple took the risk of opening Ambräusianum back in 2004, a new traditional brewery. Their gamble has paid off. In only a short few years, their brewery has become one of the most popular among both locals and visitors alike. The central location on Dominikanerstraße, very close to the cathedral, helps bring in trade.
Ambräusianum Hell is one of the most recommendable varieties of smoked beer among the many beers they offer: a strong beer (albeit with a moderate 5% alcohol content) with an amber-gold colour that is produced using natural yeast, giving it a fresh aroma and a certain fruity taste.
Open every day (except Monday) from 11:00. You can find more information and its menu of traditional German cuisine at: www.ambraeusianum.de (in German)
Fässla Brewery
The history behind the Fässla Brewery dates back to 1649, the first year of peace after the Thirty Years War. Today, a new generation that is well-trained in the art of brewing beer maintains the family tradition alive. What’s more, when looking for somewhere to stay in Bamberg, it is worth knowing that they also run a hotel.
The wide variety of beers they offer includes Echtes Bamberger Zwergla: a dark, almost mahogany-coloured beer with a moderate 6% alcohol content and a smooth, rounded finish. This and all the other varieties can be enjoyed at the brewery or bought to take away with you.
The brewery itself opens every day from 08:30 to 23:00 (Sundays until 13:00). They also offer traditional German cuisine from 11:00 until 14:00 and from 18:00 until 21:00 every day except Sunday. Further information can be found on the website at: www.faessla.de (in German and English)
Greifenklau Brewery
Discounting a pause during the first half of the 20th Century, the history behind Greifenklau dates back to 1731 and beyond. A little further from the city centre, they offer lunch and dinner in their restaurant with special prices and set meals for groups of tourists. If the sun is out, you can enjoy your beer in their large beer garden.
From among the variety of smoked beers they offer, we recommend the Greifenklau Lager: golden colour and a 4.8% alcohol content, an extremely white and creamy head, a slightly malty aroma and a smooth finish. A great example of the typical beer from the Franconia region of Germany.
Open Tuesday to Saturday from 10:30 and Sundays from 09:30 to 14:00. Closed on Mondays. Further information can be found at: www.greifenklau.de (in German and English)
Kaiserdom Brewery
While soaking up the atmosphere of the cosy dining hall at Kaiserdom, visitors can enjoy the typical cuisine of the Franconia region and its traditional beers. They have one modern dining hall and another more rustic one. They are both very welcoming but there is also a third option provided the weather is kind: the outdoor terrace. There is also a hotel on the same premises so staying the night (or longer!) is another option to be considered.
From among their selection of beers, we recommend the Weizenland Weißbier: a golden beer with a somewhat cloudy appearance due to the sediment from the yeast during fermentation in the bottle. It has a fresh, slightly fruity taste and is dry on the palate. A very refreshing beer.
As is the case at some other breweries, they are closed on Mondays. Open Tuesday to Saturday from 07:00 to 13:30 and 17:00 to 23:00. Open Sundays and public holidays from 11:30. Check www.hotel-kaiserdom.de (in German)
Keesmann Brewery
The Keesmann Brewery was established in 1867 and has maintained its family tradition ever since. Located opposite the Mariahilf Church, their offer includes wheat beer and light beer.
However, the Keesman Herren Pils is undoubtedly their star beer. A pale beer from which a certain malty aroma can be noted in an exquisitely dry body with a refreshing and highly-enjoyable finish.
Unlike other breweries in Bamberg, this one closes on Sundays. Open Monday to Saturday from 09:00 until 23:00 on weekdays and until 15:00 on Saturdays.
Mahr’s Bräu Brewery
Visiting the Mahr’s Bräu brewery means discovering one of the oldest breweries in the city of Bamberg. There are records to show it was established in 1670 and it has been offering a wide variety of beers ever since.
The most popular of them all must be the Mahr’s Ungespundetes, also known by its nickname: “U”. It is an amber-coloured beer with a certain cloudiness to it. It has a strong malt and yeast smell that gives it a rather unique aroma.
Open every day from 09:00 to 23:00.
Schlenkerla Brewery
This is one of the most popular traditional breweries in the city and also one of the most central. Trying its offer of smoked beers or its menu of traditional regional cuisine is just as recommendable as taking the time to savour the rustic décor to be found throughout the building. Historical documents record that this brewery was established in 1405 and the sixth generation of the Trum family is currently maintaining the tradition.
The beer we recommend from among its offer is perhaps the most characteristic of all smoked beers. Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier is a dark beer with a malty aroma and a certain smoky tasty that characterises and distinguishes it from others.
This brewery opens every day from 09:30 to 23:30. For further information, visit its website at: www.schlenkerla.de (in several languages, including English and Spanish)
Spezial Brewery
Only five minutes from the train station can be found the Spezial Brewery. This traditional brewery offers a rustic atmosphere and unmissable gastronomy. It also has a hotel.
The most recommendable smoked beer from among the varieties on offer at this brewery is the Spezial Rauchbier Lager: an amber beer with a creamy head. Somewhat cloudy in appearance, it is smooth on the palate and highly flavoursome.
Open every day of the week from 09:00 to 23:00, except on Saturdays, when it closes at 14:00. Further information at: www.brauerei-spezial.de (in German)
Franconian Brewery Museum
Having visited the nine traditional breweries that still operate in Bamberg, a good idea to conclude the tour is to visit this museum dedicated to the brewery tradition in the Franconia region. Open from 13:00 to 17:00 (April to October). Tickets cost € 3.00 (adults), € 2.50 (reduced rate) and € 6.50 (family rate).
Useful information
When looking for accommodation, and besides the options already mentioned previously at some of the breweries that also offer guest rooms, we recommend the Hotel Nepomuk very close to the centre (next to Klosterbräu where we began the tour). Its modern decoration, good service or the fact that each guest room comes with an iMac will certainly impress any visitor. Further information here.
When deciding how to get around the city, we recommend buying a BAMBERGcard, which, at a price of € 12, will give you access to the entire public transport network in the city and some of its museums. These cards can be purchased at the Bamberg Tourist Office (5 Geyerswörthstraße) or via the city’s website.
By Oriol Salvador from scannerFM
A perfect idea for travelling with friends! Check out our flights and off you go!
more info