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Rome’s Other Churches

They call it “The Eternal City”. The fact is that Rome still dwells in a historical limbo typified by a coexistence between Etruscan, Roman, medieval, Renaissance, Baroque and even Fascist vestiges. In this cradle of our civilisation and hub of the Catholic religion, monuments like the Colosseum, the Vatican, the Forum and the Pantheon are visited by millions of tourists each year. But, other jewels known to far fewer visitors also lie concealed in this great city. We roamed its most emblematic quarters and discovered the twelve most spectacular yet little known churches.

Trastevere

Here, tourists and locals jostle about one of the city’s liveliest, most characterful quarters. Here, too, stand some of Rome’s most fascinating medieval churches, in particular, Santa Maria in Trastevere.

1. San Francesco a Ripa – Bernini’s Other Ecstasy
Piazza di San Francesco d’Assisi 88

Possibly Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s best known work is the Ecstasy of St  Theresa. However, what many are unaware of is that a church in the very heart of Trastevere conceals another ecstasy by this artist. The church in question is San Francesco a Ripa, home to his Blessed Ludovica Albertoni, a masterpiece in marble which you are sure to enthuse over. The church is also famous for having been built on the former site of a hospice where St Francis of Assisi lodged during his visit to Rome in 1219. Indeed, his crucifix and stone pillow can still be seen in the cell where he stayed.

Piazza Navona

The Piazza Navona, one of the great works of the Italian Baroque, is built on the site of the Stadium of Domitian, hence its oval shape. The area features myriad vestiges of Borromini, Bramante and Bernini in the guise of fountains, churches and palaces. With a lively atmosphere during the day and by night, this is one of the best spots to take the city’s pulse.

2. Santa Maria della Pace – Bramante’s Proportions
Vicolo del Arco della Pace 5

This superb church was designed by Baccio Pontelli in the second half of the 15th century and includes a cloister by Bramante from the year 1504. Here, the great Italian architect applied the rules of classical proportions to generate an effect of spaciousness in an otherwise small area.

Campo de’ Fiori

The streets in this quarter have preserved their medieval atmosphere and sited here is one of Europe’s most famous open-air markets. It was a centre of the Renaissance, featuring buildings such as the Palazzo Farnese and Palazza Spada. Wandering through its streets, we came across the colourful Jewish ghetto, the Roman Theatre of Marcellus and the surprising Portico of Octavia.

3. San Girolamo della Carità – A Baroque Festival
Via de Monserrato 62A

This church is located near the church of Santa Maria in Monserrato degli Spagnoli, on the spot where St Filippo Neri lived. It houses the stunning Spada Chapel, which is well worth the visit. Designed by Borromini, it is an ode to the Italian Baroque, with statues, marble- and jasper-veined panels and all kinds of gilt decoration simulating curtains and flowered damasks.

Esquilino

Esquilino is the largest of Rome’s seven hills and a quarter which still retains much of its original character. Roman vestiges are in evidence in many spots, noteworthy being the ruins of the Baths of Trajan and the Domus Aurea. However, if it stands our for anything it is for its numerous churches, some of them built in private homes.

4. Santa Bibiana
Via Giovanni Giolitti 154

The simple facade of Santa Bibiana was Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s first architectural commission. The building houses the remains of St Bibiana, who was scourged to death with leaded thongs in Roman times. The small pillar inside the church is believed to be where the martyr was tortured. The interior also features a marble statue of the saint sculpted by Bernini himself. Interestingly enough, it was the first clothed figure sculpted by the Neapolitan artist.

5. Santa Prassede
Via di Santa Prassede 9A

The Basilica of Saint Praxedes, a celebrated gem of Byzantine art, houses one of Rome’s most interesting mosaic ensembles. The church was commissioned by Pope Paschal I in the 9th century, on the site of a former oratory from the 2nd century. While it has undergone alterations, its original medieval structure is still visible. The central nave contains a well where tradition has it St Praxedes buried the remains of 2,000 martyrs. Pride of place, however, goes to the beautiful mosaics, depicting saints, animals, palm trees and poppies. The church also contains part of a column, brought here from Jerusalem, to which Christ is said to have been tied and scourged.

Lateran

The Lateran Palace, the papal residence during the Middle Ages, stands next to one of the most spectacular churches in Rome, St John in Lateran.

6. Scala Santa and Sancta Sanctorum
Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano 14

Many sightseers overlook this spot when visiting St John in Lateran. The building, designed by Domenico Fontana, houses the two remaining vestiges of the Lateran Palace, namely the Scala Santa and Sancta Sanctorum. The former is a set of 28 steps where, according to tradition, Christ walked up to Pilate’s residence before being tried. They were brought from Jerusalem by the mother of Emperor Constantine, St Helena, and ordered to be placed in this spot by Pope Sixtus V  when the Lateran Palace was destroyed. The steps are considered holy and an object of pilgrimage, so that visitors are only allowed to ascend them on their knees. At the top of the stairs is the Sancta Sanctorum containing a painting which was allegedly executed by St Luke with the assistance of an angel.

7. Santa Croce in Gerusalemme
Piazza di Santa Croce in Gerusalemme

While now very different in appearance, the original church was founded by St Helena, the mother of Constantine the Great, in the year 320 AD. It houses relics from Christ’s Crucifixion. The crypt contains a statue of St Helena which had originally been unearthed in the Ostia archaeological site. The tomb of Cardinal Quiñones, confessor to Charles I of Spain, was sculpted by Sansovino.

8. Santo Stefano Rotondo
Via di Santo Stefano Rotondo 7

St Stephen in the Round is one of the oldest churches in Rome. Founded in 468 AD, its striking circular ground plan is difficult to forget. The four side chapels house part of the original medieval frescoes, while the standout feature is a 7th-century mosaic depicting Jesus with SS Felician and Primus.

Caracalla

The spectacular ruins of the Baths of Caracalla have long been the main attraction in this part of the city which is ideal for strolling in. What in Roman times was a residential area now boasts many green zones and affords views of the Roman wall and the Porta San Sebastiano, one of Rome’s best preserved gates.

9. Santa Maria in Domnica
Piazza della Navicella 2

Dating from the 7th century, the church is thought to have been built on the site of a former fire station. It is well worth getting to this eminently untouristic church to enjoy the peaceful atmosphere. Don’t miss the stunning mosaic in the apse, commissioned by Pope Paschal I in the 9th century.

10. San Giorgio in Velabro
Via Velabro 19

Primitive in appearance, this church was inexplicably targeted by a terrorist attack in July 1993 which destroyed the portico and tympanum. They were restored and no signs of the attack remain. Noteworthy in the apse is a fresco by Pietro Cavallini. A prominent feature in one corner of the facade is the Arco degli Argentari, dedicated to Emperor Septimius Severus in 204 AD.

11. Santa Sabina
Piazza Pietro d’Illiria 1

Like San Giorgio in Velabro, this is one of Rome’s churches that best preserves the Christian basilica layout. It features a pulpit, choir and 16th-century throne, while the windows illuminate a nave graced with exquisite Corinthian columns. The doors in the side portico, with carvings depicting Biblical scenes, date from the 5th century.

Environs of Rome

The catacombs, Via Appia Antica and Borghese Gallery are located beyond the city centre.

12. Santa Costanza
Via Nomentana 349

Inspired by circular-plan churches such as the Palatine Chapel at Aachen, or Santo Stefano Rotondo, Santa Costanza is one of the early Christian jewels. Originally built as a mausoleum for the daughters of Constantine the Great, the 12 columns supporting the vault are a veritable feat of engineering. A replica of the Costanza sarcophagus housed in the Vatican Museum is set in a niche.

Text by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

 

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Magical Routes

The scenery in this land is highly varied, featuring the best of Cantabria, with its rugged coastline and inland landscapes blessed with nature in its pristine state. We are going to concentrate on two routes that traverse the province and boast an extraordinary historical and cultural legacy, studded with a host of priceless Romanesque churches. Both are listed as World Heritage by UNESCO.

The Northern Road to Santiago

Also known as the “Coastal Road” and running for 936 kilometres, in the Middle Ages it acted as a distribution network along the north of the Iberian Peninsula. The coastal road coincides roughly with the current layout of main roads, stretching across the whole region from east to west.

The miraculous discovery in 813 of the tomb of St James sparked the beginning of the pilgrimages to Santiago de Compostela, situated at the western edge of the known world. This centre of pilgrimage gradually grew in importance, vying with others in Rome, Jerusalem and Liébana. The pilgrims took the roads that led westwards which were generally old Roman ways still in use. In addition to the main route, which led across the north of the Meseta, there were alternative routes like the coastal road, part of which ran through Cantabria’s maritime districts. Thus, the road led through Castro Urdiales, Comillas, Laredo, Santander, Santillana del Mar and San Vicente de la Barquera, all of which boast valuable medieval religious buildings, both Romanesque and Gothic.

You are advised to negotiate the route in nine stages:

Stage 1. El Haya de Ontón – Castro Urdiales (21 km)
This is the first stage on the Northern Road through Cantabria. It leads through Baltezana, Otañes, Santullán and Sámano. The route is smooth, with no marked slopes, and has restaurant facilities, rest areas and drinking fountains.

Stage 2. Castro Urdiales – Guriezo (12.9 km)
A short stage. It is worth taking time to visit the Gothic church of Santa María, particularly its interior. You will pass through the villages of Allendelagua, Cérdigo, Islares and Nocina. The standout stretch is the last three kilometres, with stunning views of the Cantabrian Sea.

Stage 3. Guriezo – Laredo (23.1 km)
This takes you through Rioseco, Tresagua, Lugarejos, Iseca Nueva, Sopeña and, on the way to Laredo, through Iseca Vieja, Las Cárcobas and Valverde. The most prominent features include the hillside walk which culminates in your first glimpses of the Liendo Valley, the beautiful scenery around San Julián beach, and the town of Laredo, with memories of its medieval and modern history cast in stone.

Stage 4. Laredo – Güemes (36 km)
The municipalities traversed on this stage are Santoña, Argoños, Helgueras, Noja, Soano, Isla, Bareyo and Güemes. Noteworthy in Laredo is its 16th-century Town Hall. This is followed by a stroll along the beaches of Salvé, which stretches for over 4 kilometres, and Berria. When you come to Bareyo, make sure you visit its church, a gem of the Cantabrian Romanesque.

Stage 5. Güemes – Santander (18 km)
A short stage which allows you to explore the capital of Cantabria more fully. The places you pass through are Galizano, Somo, Pedreña and Santander. In the capital, the acclaimed landmarks include the historic centre and the Reina Victoria promenade. Don’t miss out on the Jardines de Pereda and the Cathedral, set behind the post office, in addition to the Iglesia del Cristo, where you can get your pilgrim credentials, both for the Road to Santiago and the Lebaniego Road.

Stage 6. Santander – Santillana del Mar (40 km)
Peñacastillo, Santa Cruz de Bezana, Puente Arce, Requejada, Barreda and Queveda are the population centres you traverse on this stage. From a cultural standpoint, the most striking landmarks are the 16th-century Arce bridge and the town of Santillana del Mar, a medieval museum in itself.

Stage 7. Santillana del Mar – Comillas (24.6 km)
This is a beautiful stage which, like the previous one, can be broken into two parts. One as far as Cóbreces and the other up to Comillas. Both are worthy of stopovers as they boast historical complexes. And, make sure you don’t miss the villa of the Marqueses de Comillas with its Catalan Modernist features.

Stage 8. Comillas – San Vicente de la Barquera (12.5 km)
The highlights of this stage are undoubtedly the above two towns, and the scenery along the Cantabrian seaboard which connects them. The route takes you through Rubárcena, La Rabia, Guerra, Rupuente and La Braña. Keep your camera or mobile handy as you’ll be passing through the Oyambre Nature Reserve and some idyllic beaches.

Stage 9. San Vicente de la Barquera – Unquera (16.4 km)
Everywhere you look around you reveals stunning scenery. Behind you lies the town of San Vicente and, to the front, the spectacular Picos de Europa mountain range. This stage takes you through La Acebosa, Hortigal, Estrada, Serdio and Pesués. While you’re at it, between San Vicente de la Barquera and Unquera you can take a detour at Muñorrodero if you also want to do the Lebaniego Road.

The Lebaniego Road

This is one of the most important and beautiful pilgrim routes. In fact, 2017 will be a Jubilee Year in Liébana. The Lebaniego Road runs from San Vicente de la Barquera to the Monastery of Santo Toribio, passing through the municipalities of Val de San Vicente, Herrerías, Lamasón, Peñarrubia, Cillorigo, Potes and Camaleño. The route traverses some beautiful natural spots and boasts fine examples of Cantabria’s architectural heritage. It also provides access to the Northern Road (or Coastal Road), the French Road and the Road to Santiago from the routes in León and Palencia, pointing to the historic ties between the diocese of Liébana and the kingdoms of León and Castile. Many pilgrims make the journey to Santo Toribio and then connect up with the two roads to Santiago for the purpose of attaining both credentials. It is advisable to negotiate this route in three stages:

1st Stage. San Vicente – Cades (28 km):

San Vicente de la Barquera is one of the major and most touristic towns in Cantabria. Although outside the scope of the pilgrim’s route, it also features interesting sites like the 13th-century Castillo del Rey, the 15th-century Convent of San Luis, where Charles V lodged before being proclaimed king in 1517, the bridge known as Puente de la Maza and the Sanctuary of La Barquera, both dating from the 15th century. From there you set out to Serdio, and on to the mountain trail that leads to Muñorrodero. The trail ends in Camijanes. You then pass through Cabanzón with its Medieval Tower and, finally, you come to Cades.

2nd Stage. Cades – Cabañes (30.53 km):

From Cades, you head for La Fuente. There you can visit the Church of Santa Juliana, one of the jewels of Romanesque art in Cantabria, listed as a Cultural Interest Site. After reaching Cicera, the road leads to Lebeña, passing through an oak and beech forest with millennial specimens, as well as field mushrooms of all kinds in season. The route ends in Cabañes after negotiating a slope.

3rd Stage. Cabañes – Santo Toribio (13.7 km):

The first stop is in Pendes, which you cannot leave without trying Liébana’s typicalquesucocheese. From there, the road leads to Tama, and then on to Potes, with its impressive Torre del Infantado, the town’s most emblematic landmark and one of the finest in Cantabria. It makes a priceless picture with the Picos de Europa in the background. Finally, you come to the Monastery of Santo Toribio, where the Lignun Crucis is venerated. The classical Gothic and Baroque monastery was built from the 13th to the 18th century. It features the 15th-century Gate of Pardon which is opened every Lebaniego Jubilee Year; that is, every time 16 April falls on a Sunday, the feast of the monk St Toribio, a historic figure acclaimed for having brought the Lignum Crucis to Liébana. This is regarded as the largest relic of Christ’s Cross.

Full information on the Road can be found here. In addition to the information, news and routes, there is a link to a map of the Road.

Millennary Yet Modern Road

The Lebaniego Road was the first pilgrim’s route to have a wi-fi internet connection, thanks to the project, Camino Lebaniego en Red. The connection is achieved via a system of waymarkers that provide a signal throughout the route. The technology enables travellers to interact with one another, access information and share their experience with other pilgrims. It is also accessible to people with disabilities and is generally designed as a comprehensive system for those covering the 72 kilometres of road. More information here.

So, take up your backpack and don your sturdy footwear for the journey. Live out the experience of the Road for yourself. Check out our flights here.

 

Text and images by Turismo de Cantabria

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A Legacy With Offspring

No less than 40% of the island’s population is concentrated in the capital, Ibiza. It is the venue for most social and cultural activities throughout the year and boasts the lion’s share of Ibiza’s culinary, sporting and leisure facilities.

Twenty-seven centuries of history are crammed within the walls of Dalt Vila in this ancient, sea-facing Phoenician capital. A visit to this site takes you on a journey into the past, essential to any understanding of the origins of the island. With their panoramic views of the sea, the Cathedral steps or the Old City Hall are hotspots for logging Instagram “likes”. The vantage point overlooks Es Freus, the strait that separates Ibiza from its sibling island, Formentera.

Business and leisure activities are concentrated at the foot of the walled precinct in Sa Penya, the old fishing quarter, as well as inLa Marina,the harbour, the central Vara de Rey boulevard, the lively Plaza del Parque and along the city’s main avenues.

Before Arriving

Dalt Vila can easily be toured in half a day. We met Shana Dominique Lacroix next to the boats moored in Ibiza harbour and she explained that the best panoramic view of the Old Town is to be had from alongside the Boas de Ibiza residential complex, designed by Jean Nouvel, on the opposite side of the docks (Paseo Juan Carlos I). While strolling along the dockside on our way to the walled city, we came across a monument dedicated to corsairs. Ibiza was a strategic point in the 16th, 17th and 18th century, as from there the whole south-east of the Iberian Peninsula could be defended against surprise raids by Turkish pirates.

Opposite the harbour, between Plaça d’Antoni Riquer and Plaça Sa Tertúlia, is a street market which begins after Holy Week and offers all kinds of craft wares, jewellery and leather goods. It is best to visit it at night time, when you can also have an ice-cream or a cold beer in the harbour area. It opens from 5 p.m. until the early hours. Nearby is Es Mercat Vell, with its Roman temple aesthetic, where you can enjoy fresh food and buy cut flowers. Open every day except Sundays.

Shana explained how the luxury marina had been relocated at the foot of the Old Town. This is one of only seven examples of such an oddity in the world. The fact is that a mooring in Ibiza’s exclusive harbour costs from 6,000 to 7,000 euros a day in high season (July and August).

Within the Walls

It is well worth strolling through the randomly laid out streets here and, on our walk, we came across medieval, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque buildings. The austerity of the Gothic Cathedral is surprising. A rewarding stop is the Dominican Convent, in Renaissance style. It houses the tomb of Guillem de Montgrí, who drove the Moors out of Ibiza and Formentera in 1235. It was then that Catalan was adopted as the main language, although it gradually morphed into Ibizan over the centuries.

In Dalt Vila, culture vultures will be able to quench their thirst in the Contemporary Art Museum, with paintings, engravings, drawings, posters, photographs and videos by such prominent contemporary artists as Bechtold, Floris, Broner, Micus, Zush/Evru, Flanagan, Vedova, Schlosser, Hausmann, Le Parc, Tàpies, Gordillo, Dmitrienko, Hinterreiter, Vallribera, Broto, Faber, Tur Costa, Echarri and Portmany. Also worth visiting is the Puget Museum, dedicated to the work of the acclaimed artist, Narcís Puget. You can now also visit an exhibition devoted to the work of his son, the recently deceased photographer, Narcís Puget Riquer.

Ibiza “All’Antica”

Ibiza was designated a World Heritage Site in 1999, by which UNESCO recognised the need to preserve the historical, cultural and natural assets which make this island unique, although especially on account of four complexes:

1. The Walled Precinct of Dalt Vila. The best preserved fortress in the Mediterranean. In the 16th century, Philip II ordered the island to be defended tooth and nail against Berber assaults. He had the old medieval walls converted into an impregnable, fortified bulwark.

2. The Puig des Molins Necropolis. The world’s largest and best preserved Phoenician-Punic necropolis is located in the ancient Roman settlement in the city centre. On display are over 2,500 hypogea or underground chambers where the deceased were buried along with their belongings and tools, in preparation for the afterlife. This is also where the bust of Tanit was found. The goddess of love and fertility, she is identified as the goddess of Ibiza.

3. The Phoenician Settlement of Sa Caleta, in the environs of the Ses Salines Nature Reserve, was the earliest Phoenician settlement on the island, dating from the 8th century BC. The site is fenced off but you can still see the layout and the way life was organised in those times.

4. The waters around Ibiza and Formentera are exceptionally clean and transparent on account of abundant, well preserved underwater meadows of posidonia which promotes seabed biodiversity and the development of indigenous species of marked scientific value. The waters and islets of Es Freus, within the Ses Salines Nature Reserve of Ibiza and Formentera, are ideal for diving.

A large medieval market is held on the second weekend in May each year to celebrate the anniversary of Dalt Vila’s designation as a World Heritage Site.

But, not all is world heritage in old Ibiza. Other assets have emerged over the last few decades and, while they may not be as edifying, they are nevertheless equally essential. For instance, there is the broad slew of culinary offerings available in a host of restaurants, many of which can be found on the Calle de Santa Cruz. We can recommend La Oliva, which features Mediterranean cuisine with some Asian flourishes, where you are sure to bump into the odd celebrity. Then there is the Plaza del Sol, with amazing views of the harbour.

Why wait to explore Ibiza’s Old Town? Check out our flights here.

Special thanks to the Fundación de Promoción Turística de Ibiza.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS and Fundación de Promoción Turística de Ibiza

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72 hours to get a taste of Lanzarote

By Isabel Loscertales from gastronomistas

Feeling a bit blue because summer is almost over? In just three hours you can get to Lanzarote from Barcelona: it's close, it's accessible, and you'll be able to enjoy the good weather again over a long weekend. But the good weather should not be the main reason to visit the island, as you'll find that the unique beauty of its volcanic landscape, the art byCésar Manrique and the island's cuisine are even more fascinating than its climate. As it's quite a small island (about 60 km long and 20 km wide), all you need is a few days to go on a short break and get a good taste of what it has to offer. We would like to suggest an ideal plan for three days:

DAY 1: CENTRE OF LANZAROTE

There are many places to stay on the island, like the popular area of Costa Teguise, which is full of hotels. Barceló Lanzarote Resort (Avenida del Mar, 5. Tel. 928 591 329. www.barcelo.com) is an affordable hotel and perfect for family holidays. It's being refurbished and has large and comfortable rooms, three pools for adults and two for children, many activities for children, sports facilities (climbing wall, miniature golf, tennis courts, etc.), a wellness centre, buffet breakfast, and "Mediterráneo", a restaurant that offers, amongst other delights, homemade pasta and a carefully selected range of wines.

Once you've settling in and are feeling relaxed, it's a good idea to explore the area of La Geria, where you can find the curious landscape covered with typical Lanzarote vineyards. Because of the volcanic soil and strong winds, the vines are planted in pits sheltered by circular stone walls. This dry cultivation method is called "enarenado". The view of these vast vineyards surrounded by perfectly built walls, with the bare mountains in the background, is unique in the world, and is well worth seeing. And even better if you enjoy it with a glass of wine in your hand. White wine is the island's speciality – specifically Volcanic Malvasía, the island's top variety. Once you try it you won't want to drink anything else. If you would like to find out more, you can visit a winery, like El Grifo (Teguise-Uga, LZ-30, km. 11. San Bartolomé. Tel. 928 524 036. www.elgrifo.com). Then, you can visit the "Campesino" monument and the César Manrique Foundation, which are close by.

The capital of the island, Arrecife, covers the centre of the island and the south coast. The most charming area, which is quite fashionable at the moment and has a great atmosphere, is Charco de San Ginés. After going for a walk you can have dinner at a restaurant that opened recently: Naia. It's very trendy and has a beautiful view of the lake. The half-Basque half-Canarian chef, Mikel Otaegui, offers modern Mediterranean cuisine with a twist, like foie gras micuit as crème brûlée, or creamy rice with small cuttlefish. Avenida César Manrique, 33. Tel. 928 805 797. www.restaurantenaialanzarote.com).

DAY 2: SOUTH OF LANZAROTE

The beautiful Timanfaya National Park is a place not to be missed. At the entrance you find an activity specially for tourists: a camel ride, which you might fancy... or not. The best thing to is to take the bus inside the park and enjoy the amazing lunar landscape: a desert area full of volcanoes, traces of lava, and a display of red, ochre and orange hues against the blue sea. You can almost get an idea of what life on another planet would be like. After the bus trip you can stop at the curious El Diablo restaurant, designed by César Manrique (the ever-present artist whose work is to be found all over the island), which overlooks the park. You have to see the enormous grill where they cook the meat – they use geothermal heat straight from the ground, at 600ºC!

Near the park you can find the coastal village of El Golfo, where you can taste typical cuisine of the sea. One of the places you can try is Bogavante restaurant (Avenida Marítima, 39. El Golfo. Tel. 928 173 505), which has a terrace that is not far from the sea. Here you must taste typical Lanzarote fish and seafood. With an intense flavour granted by the Atlantic Ocean, sea bream, comber, red mullet, limpets, squid, grouper, etc. are cooked in simple ways, grilled, with mandatory wrinkled potatoes and mojo picón sauce (either the more citrus green mojo, or the slightly hot red mojo). Other typical products in Lanzarote are cheese, also served fried with fig jam, and scalded "gofio" (which is toasted cornmeal mixed with water and salt; sometimes it replaces bread, and other times it's used to make desserts). And speaking of dessert, you must try "bienmesabe", a very sweet cake that is typical of the area, made with almonds, honey, egg yolk and sugar.

In the afternoon you can visit a lagoon, Laguna Verde or de los Clicos and the Hervideros, where you can see where the sea has eroded the volcanic rocks. Lower down you can find thePapagayo beaches, situated in a nature reserve (there is an fee of around €3 to park the car), and stunning coves where you can sunbathe and relax.

And to round off the day, you can book a table at La Tegala restaurant, in the town of Mácher, near Puerto del Carmen. It's a very special and romantic place, recommended by the Michelin Guide, where the food and the architecture are a wonderful combination of tradition and modernity. Built on a small vantage point, it is the result of joining an old traditional country house and an avant-garde annex with large windows. Chef Germán Blanco's signature cuisine includes many locally-sourced ingredients (organic where possible), to make it fun and contemporary, and bursting with flavour. The best way to discover it is with the Estela menu experience, which changes a few times during the year and is quite affordable at €42.

DAY 3: NORTH OF LANZAROTE

As you head north, it's worth stopping at the picturesque town of Teguise. If you go on a Sunday, there is a very popular market with a small area selling food, where you can purchase cheese, homemade mojo picón sauce, wine, etc. Nearby you can findFamara beach, with its amazing cliff. It's very popular with surfers, as it's really windy! Then you'll come across the town of Haría and its "valle de las mil palmeras" (Valley of a Thousand Palm Trees).

Another popular place in Lanzarote is the Mirador del Río viewpoint, one of César Manrique's projects, resting atop Risco de Famara, and perfectly integrated into the landscape. If affords amazing views of the volcanic mountainsides and of Chinijo archipelago, where Graciosa is the main island. You can have a drink at the beautiful café-restaurant, which boasts large windows that enable you to enjoy the panoramic view. Then it's time to visit Los Verdes cave, situated in a lava tube that continues under the sea. And then we find another of Cesar Manrique's great works: the beautiful Jameos del Agua site. It's an open lava tube with a natural lake. Look carefully at the small albino crabs that live here. They are an endemic species called "jameítos" There is also a café-restaurant here.

You can have lunch at the coastal town of Arrieta, to continue tasting the island's delicacies from the sea. If you're looking for an affordable place, La Casa de la Playa, a restaurant on La Garita beach serves fish and seafood for €15-20 on average (Tel. 928 173 339). And if you've still got time, you shouldn't miss a trip to Graciosa island, to visit some of its secluded beaches. Boats normally leave from the municipality of Órzola. This small island only has a couple of municipalities and no roads have been built, so it's perfect for those who love cycling in the unspoilt and wild countryside.

 We’ll be there. If you want to come too, check out our flights here.

Nosotros nos apuntamos, si quieres venirte consulta nuestros vuelos aquí.

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