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Ten cafés in Frankfurt where you could spend hours reading a good book

By Silvia Artaza from Gastronomistas

That Frankfurt is a place of contrasts is something you take in at first sight when you land at this German city. A skyline that rises over buildings from another era; a busy Turkish restaurant full of suited executives at lunchtime; a Japanese pâtisserie where you can just as well buy macarons as sit at its sushi bar.

We got away to Frankfurt for three days to find out what the city has to offer apart from the famous sausages it gives its name to. And we found out.

We used NH City as our headquarters. It's a very well located hotel, a stone's throw from Konstablerwache Square, where the pedestrian shopping area (Zeil) begins. There is a train station of the same name right there, with a direct line to the airport, which is an advantage worth considering when planning your trip. And if you like markets, the square has an interesting market of regional products at the weekend, with heaps of things to try from small-scale producers.

At Christmas, as in many German cities, street markets take centre stage, making this is a great time to visit Frankfurt. But undoubtedly the event in the city with the greatest international impact is the Book Fair. Held in October, it is the largest and most important book fair in the world, a showcase for publishers that attracts over 250,000 visitors each year.

It wasn't October, but we found a good book and headed off to look for those ten cafés where you could spend hours reading.

1- Iimori Pâtisserie & Restaurant. Macarons and Sushi Bar.

Very close to the cathedral, in the heart of Frankfurt, two discreet Japanese women welcome us to this original pâtisserie. A charming café to settle into and enjoy any of the sweet snacks from behind the glass counter: macarons, pastries, fine cakes, including green tea cake, fresh fruit tarts, etc. If you like tea, it's a place not to miss. And the same goes if you like Japanese food. Because upstairs you'll be surprised to find a sushi bar with a great choice of dishes both for lunch and dinner, as well as to take away.

There is a daily buffet breakfast with pastries, croissants, bread, fresh fruit with yoghurt, jams, chocolate cream, sausages and cheeses. And on Saturdays and Sundays there's brunch, where Iimori's sweet side is combined with a great selection of sushi and other Japanese specialities. (Braubachstraße 24)

2-Bitter & Zart. The pleasure of chocolate.

Without leaving this street, we switched from tea and pastries to chocolate in all its varieties. Bitter & Zart began as a shop offering fine chocolate. Tablets, pralines, chocolates, truffles, cocoa... of all the imaginable intensities and flavours (toasted almonds, Ceylon cinnamon, caramel, etc.).

But in 2012 an adjoining room, which they call the "living room", was opened. A cozy and inviting place to enjoy a coffee, tea, chocolate drink or juice, with something sweet or savoury from the counter display. If you come here you have to try the Bitter & Zart chocolate cake. (Braubachstraße 14)

 3-Frankfurter Kunstverein café/bar.

Located in the heart of Frankfurt near Römer square, Frankfurter Kunstverein is an art centre that pioneers in the production and exhibition of young and experimental artists. Its café/bar is, as you'd expect, a meeting place for creative minds, where artists and advertising people are to be seen with their laptops while having a cup of coffee.

The fresh homemade food is based on seasonal regional produce. They bake their own bread and the fruit juices are freshly squeezed. It's a great choice if you're looking for a place to have breakfast or enjoy a cocktail in a good atmosphere. (Steinernes Haus am Römerberg. Markt 44).

 4-Café Metropol. A must-do.

Also right by the cathedral, Café Metropol is one of the most common places to get together in the city. A good atmosphere and good prices. At its large wooden tables you can have coffee, one of the best homemade pies in Frankfurt, sandwiches, pasta and salads.

It is very bright and you can spend hours gazing through its large window onto a garden, which, coupled with its simplicity, makes it one of the nicest places we found to enjoy a good read. That said, you should know that for dinner (with its international menu) and breakfast at the weekend it's chock-a-block, so it's best to book. (Weckmarkt 13-15)

5-Breakfasts at Café Karin

Another place that is often full is Café Karin, which is a great place for breakfast. The variety is incredible. The breakfast menu uses the names of Frankfurt's various districts, with choices ranging from a classic croissant with butter and jam to a heaped plate of cheeses, meats, sweets... And of course, there are also fresh juices, coffee and muesli, plus the possibility of customising your breakfast with lots of extras. We could call it breakfast, or better still, brunch, because it's available until the evening. (Grosser Hirschgraben 28)

6-Café Albatros. An afterwork place with atmosphere

People had told us about Bockenheim, a neighbourhood we reached passing through a more residential area. Less lively than the centre, but with interesting places like this, Café Albatros, full of young people having a quiet beer after work.

Like Café Metropol, it closes after midnight during the week, so the atmosphere is lively at dinner time. And, of course, there is the Sunday brunch, with some 50 different hot and cold, sweet and savoury dishes. The menu is international, ranging from Italian pasta dishes and salads to tasty Samosas with yoghurt and mint sauce. (Kiesstrasse 27)

7-Roseli. An early evening café

A bit hidden away. This café is located in an alley in an area halfway between the shopping district (Zeil) and the main square (Römer). We liked it because it's small, intimate and very pleasant. And because it has a charming terrace away from the traffic for days with good weather.

Organic teas, coffees and irresistible cakes. But there are also savoury dishes like quiche, focaccia, panini and salads. Nearby Roseli there are other urbane alternatives worth dropping in at, like Brot und seine Freunde (a home bakery with coffees, sandwiches and sweets) and Souper! (with loads of great soups to eat in or take away). (Weißadlergasse 9)

8-History at the tables of Café Liebfrauenberg

Part of Frankfurt's history is definitely to be found here, in this café. Established over 120 years ago, it was and remains a place for social gatherings in the city centre. With its air of nostalgia and of being from another time, it is a must on a list like this, taking in this German city's cafés.

Coffees, teas, drinking chocolate and a variety of sweets to drive you mad. Pancakes, crepes and waffles, and also homemade cakes made with seasonal fruit. Don't miss the walnut cake. (Liebfrauenberg 24)

9-Cocktails and more at Moloko +

Neither Anthony Burgess's book nor Kubrick's film adaptation of it reveal its recipe, but we remember the Moloko Plus as the cocktail drunk by the characters in A Clockwork Orange. Its namesake in Frankfurt also began as a cocktail bar, but has now evolved into a non-stop concept where you can have everything from breakfast in the morning to a mojito at night. The interior design is excuse enough in itself to drop by. (Kurt-Schumacher-Straße 1)

10-Café Süden. Drop in to try its sweets and teas

We love to get off the tourist trail and so one afternoon we ended up in the Bornheim district. We were told that this is an area where locals hang out, which makes us like it even more. With places like this little café. Just four little tables and a bar at the back full of cakes. Really lovely, a place to enjoy a good tea in a candlelit atmosphere. To our surprise, it's the little brother of a Spanish food restaurant in the city! (Berger Strasse 239)

And don't miss…

Operation "Frankfurt beyond the frankfurter" achieved, but we must confess that we also tried a few of them. Which is why, along with all of these recommendations, we encourage you to not miss ...

A visit to a traditional cider (Apfelwein) bar, like Apfelwein Wagner in the Sachsenhausen district, with apple/cider wine, breaded cutlets (Schnitzel) with green sauce(Grünen Soße), which they make with “seven herbs” (borage, chervil, watercress, parsley, burnet, chives and sorrel), or a typical cream cheese with paprika served as a spread starter (Spundekas). (Schweizer Straße 71)

And you should also stroll around the daily market at Kleinmarkthalle, where you can stop off at the Schreiber stall to try some of its sausages. At mid morning there is usually a long queue of locals waiting their turn, but if you want a real frankfurt in Frankfurt, this is the place. (Hasengasse 5)

 Makes you want to go, right? Do it! Check out our prices here!

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The Rolling Stones London

Every time you visit London you discover something new. The city is endless and has multiple facets, and one of these is musical. Indeed, the capital of Britain has also been that of pop and rock music practically since their inception. The first big rock’n’roll clubs emerged there and it was in that ambience of leather jackets and limitless hairpieces that The Rolling Stones came into being. Even today, the band still wears their crown as the kings of planetary rock. Homing in on this comprehensive retrospective, which has taken over the nine rooms in the Saatchi Gallery, My Vueling City has authored a review of The Stones’ London. “It’s only rock and roll but I like it!”

A Penchant for The Rolling Stones

Needless to say, The Rolling Stones are eternal. For most of us, they have always been there, periodically engaged in marathon tours and always releasing records with “made in Hollywood” premieres and no lack of pyrotechnics to boot. Much has been said about the longevity of the (now) quartet – whether they have had hemodialysis or made a pact with the devil. But, it matters little. What really matters is that they are undisputedly the most important band in the history of rock. That is why any event relating to them turns out to be a not-to-be-missed show. Which also applies to this exhibition, entitled Exhibitionism, which has been three years in the making and features over 500 artefacts associated with the group. It is a veritable mega-exhibition, closely meshed with the Rolling Stones’ geartrain and running on a heady budget – the whole setup has cost a trifling 5.7 million dollars!

Exhibitionism or Fetishism?

We’re not sure whether the title quite fits the nature of the exhibition. We were more forcefully struck by it fetishistic bent. At any rate, whether you’re a Stones fan or merely curious, the exhibition is well worth seeing. It is hosted in the Saatchi Gallery, a handsome mansion usually given over to modern art located in the illustrious district of Chelsea.

The exhibition traces the group’s career. In addition to artefacts, the various galleries also feature life-size replicas of the group’s dressing rooms, and even of the first flat they shared. There is also a reproduction of a recording studio from those times. You can live through a 3D experience of their concerts, too, based on a recording of the one they gave in Hyde Park in 2013. The exhibition layout adheres to the traditional museum plan, with countless objects – like old suits – of which the standout feature is the legendary white they wore at the Hyde Park concert held in July 1969 in memory of Brian Jones. And guitars, of course, are singled out as a special feature. Included is the hand-painted Gibson Les Paul which Richards played from 1966 to 1970. There are also films curated by Martin Scorsese, and unpublished recordings.

The Satanic Majesties’ London

While in London, we recommend you visit some of the group’s legendary venues. See how the band’s influence still resonates in the city.

1. The First Flat

Located in Chelsea itself, just a short walk from the Saatchi Gallery, is the first flat of the original core of The Rolling Stones, shared by Mick Jagger, Keith Richards and Brian Jones. In 1962, three boys who dreamed of being as great as The Beatles lived there, at 102 Edith Grove.

2. Pub Bricklayers

Located in Soho, the Bricklayer Arms was a pub that hosted performances every night. It was located at 7 Broadwick Street and it was there that good old Charlie Watts joined the group. The drummer, who would never leave the band, was much older than the rest of them and was a seasoned player on the jazz circuit. The pub is now the record shop, Sounds of the Universe.

3. The Ealing Jazz Club

Inaugurated in January 1969, it soon became the headquarters of the best blues ever heard in London. It was here that the cream of British rock took their first steps, encompassing a whole generation of such standout figures as Eric Clapton, Jimmy Page, Pete Townsend and Keith Moon. And it was here that Keith Richards and Mick Jagger first saw Brian Jones performing. That was a long time ago; specifically, on 7 April 1962. You will find it at 42A Ealing Broadway.

4. Regent Sounds and Legendary Denmark Street

Located in Soho, these legendary studios witnessed The Rolling Stones’ recording sessions in 1963, including the track, Not Fade Away, which catapulted them to fame in their early period. A stroll along Denmark Street is something of an experience. Nowadays you will come across countless musical instruments shops, on a street that dates from 1867 and still features some buildings from those times.

5. New Crawdaddy Club

The New Crawdaddy Club, in Richmond, opened in 1962. A year later, in February 1963, after their first concert, The Rolling Stones became the resident band, playing twice a week. It was at that time that they entered the hit parade in style with Come On, and the public response was so great that the bar had to move to larger premises. It is currently located on Harding Elms Road, Essex and, needless to say, still hosts good concerts.

6. Sticky Fingers

After the tough haul along the route studded with emblematic Stones venues, the time comes for building up one’s strength at an eatery which is practically a Rolling Stones museum. This is the Sticky Fingers Restaurant, owned by the former Stone, Bill Wyman, who was The Rolling Stones bassist from 1962 to 1993. We recommend the Bacon Burger: 170 g patty, Monterey Jack cheese, tomato, lettuce, red onion, pickles, bacon and pickled mayonnaise, bathed in BBQ sauce and served with a pasta and coleslaw salad, four cheeses and croutons.

Stones rock is still alive in London. Come and discover it – check out our flights here.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Galería SaatchiRestaurante Sticky Fingers, Visit Britain, Ealing Jazz Club

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Concert Time

Covering an area of 1,572 square kilometres and hosting a total of 32,000 performances a year, London features an endless roster of venues. Indeed, the culture of live performances is more rooted in the city than anywhere else in Europe. In pubs, for instance, apart from having a pint and eating fish and chips, it is customary to listen to live music. And, this is nothing new. They’ve been doing it for decades and have never had to struggle against any municipal edict forcing them to keep noise levels down by installing limiters. The fact is that in London music is regarded as a cultural asset, on a par with Shakespearean theatre or a painting by Turner. That’s the long and the short of it.

So, in London, there is no end to the number of music venues. You can go out any day of the year and you are sure to find an interesting concert. If you pick up any music magazine – like Mojo, Uncut or NME, which is now free-of-charge – and peruse the listings, you are likely to balk at the myriad offerings. On a single night out, you can go and see anything from an emblematic 60s jazz band to a Jamaican ska combo from Tokyo, a gathering of a legendary 80s heavy metal band and all of the “next best things” on offer. In other words, there is everything for everybody.

One advantage that London has over other cities, particularly in southern Europe, is the concert times. There they start earlier, which is to be commended if you want to get home at a reasonable hour on a weekday. Before attending a concert, Londoners have to first pass through “Go” which, in this instance, means the pub. So, we recommend you wet your whistle at one of the pubs adjoining the concert halls, even though British beer is usually lukewarm.

For All Tastes

Here, then, is a selection of the venues that really got our attention on recent visits to London. See if you concur with us!

1. Eventim Apollo

If there is a classic venue it is the legendary Eventim Apollo. Designed by Robert Cromie in Art Deco, it opened in 1932 as the Gaumont Palace and was renamed the Hammersmith Odeon in 1962. Until very recently, it was known as the Hammersmith Apollo. It is located in West London and its acoustics are up with the great odeons, prompting many groups to record live there, notably Duran Duran, Dire Straits and Kate Bush. Seating capacity is flexible, an arrangement dating from 2003, although it can hold up to 5,000 people for some concerts.

2. O2 Academy Brixton

Also known as the Brixton Academy, this is another spot which is all the rage in London. For many musicians this is undoubtedly the best concert hall in the world. It opened in 1929 as the Astoria and went down in history as the venue for the last concert performed by The Smiths, on 12 December 1986. Currently, it also operates as a disco and comedy club. Upcoming event – Faithless (18/8).

3. Bush Hall

It is not one of the oldest venues, as it opened in 2001, but clearly one of the most appealing ones in town. Located in Hammersmith, Bush Hall is a very small venue, almost a classical type of private theatre. Apart from hosting concerts, they also hold dinners, photographic shoots and have even had Kate Moss parading through. Among the artists that have given concerts here are the illustrious Mark Knopfler, Nick Cave and Amy Winehouse.

4. Electric Ballroom

Camden is more seasoned as a venerable leisure-spot district, particularly since the 1960s. But, Electric Ballroom goes back even further. In fact, it has been open since the 1930s, although it was initially known as The Buffalo Club and operated as a pub. Of medium size, it is celebrated for its excellent acoustics. During the golden age of punk it hosted the likes of Sid Vicious and The Clash, in addition to big names in other genres such as U2, Paul McCartney, The Killers, The Smiths and Red Hot Chili Peppers.

5. Koko Club

Still in Camden, we also put in an appearance at Koko, a former theatre and the centre for BBC theatre programming after World War II. In the 1970s it was reconditioned as a concert hall. The building was known as Camden Palace from 1982 to 2004, but changed to its current name when it was taken over and completely restored by Oliver Bengough and Mint Entertainment.

6. Jazz Café

Jazz Café is undoubtedly one of the meccas of black music in London. Here you will find the best in jazz, hip-hop and more current trends like grime and trap. Take note of their programme, which is awesome. Here are the numbers due to be hosted on their premises in upcoming weeks: Sugarhill Gang (3/9), Pete Rock & CL Smooth (5/9), The Real Thing (24/9), Imagination (30/9) and The Herbaliser (14/10) – quite a treat!

7. Roundhouse

This erstwhile train engine shed has become one of the most important venues for concerts and the performing arts in London. Located in Chalk Farm, it is a Grade II listed building, that is, considered to be particularly important of or special interest. It was built in 1847 and, after the Second World War, was converted into a performing arts venue. The Roundhouse has gone down in history as the only place where The Doors performed in the United Kingdom, in 1968.

8. Heaven

Heaven is one of the greatest draws among London clubs at present. It is located under the Villiers Street arches in the heart of the city. The Feeling, Hurts, John Grant and Miles Kane are but a few of the groups that have been hosted in this club. Heaven opened in the 1970s, imbued with disco culture from the USA. It soon became a roller disco and subsequently a dance music club. There are several rooms on the premises and hetero-friendly gay parties have now become frequent.

9. Union Chapel

Located in Islington, Union Chapel is a huge surprise. This church reconditioned as a multi-space venue has amazing acoustics. Apart from gigs, concerts are also hosted. Performances are stylistically far more open. In the coming weeks you can see The AKA Trio (23/9) – on the occasion of the African Music Festival – Lloyd Cole (3/11) and Billy Bragg & Joe Henry (7 y 8/11).

10. The Camden Assembly

The club will be inaugurated in September this year, on the same premises where the legendary Barfly stood for years, a small, dark locale where it became frequent to get the soles of one’s footwear stuck to the floor. The new venue has not yet disclosed its genre affiliation, but it will clearly be one of the pleasant surprises of the season.

Tired of the poor acoustics at open-air festivals? Make haste and check out our flights to London, the cradle of live music shows.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Wikipedia Commons, Ewan Munro, Jamie Barras

 

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Moscow In Red

On 8 December 1991, Boris Yeltsin, Leonid Kravchuk and Stanislav Shushkevich signed the so-called Belavezha Accords. Established in 1922 after the February Revolution, the treaty was endorsed by the presidents of the Russian SFSR, the Ukrainian SSR and the Belarusian SSR, thereby marking the dissolution of the Soviet Union. Twenty-five years after the demise of the Communist utopia, the capital of the now extinguished “Red Empire”, of Bunker 42 in the Garden of Fallen Monuments, still hides corners evocative of its former proletarian grandeur.

Bunker 42

Bunker 42 still lies in the heart of Moscow, alongside the Taganskaya metro station, in building 11 at 5 Kotelnicheski Street, 65 metres underground. Once guarded and maintained by a contingent of over 600 soldiers and officials, Bunker 42 was an ultra-high-security shelter for top-level party members in the event of a nuclear war. It now forms part of the State Central Museum of the Armed Forces. Visitors can tour the endless secret tunnels and see for themselves what was then a sophisticated network of communications, and even venture into Stalin’s study.

The White House of Russia

A privileged witness to the end of the Soviet Union, the White House of Russia was the Communists’ answer to their American counterpart. Designed by Dmitry Chechulin and Pavel Shteller, building work got under way in 1965, but the edifice was not completed until 1981. It then became the seat of the legislative power of the Supreme Soviet of the Russian SFSR, effectively the Congress of People’s Deputies of the Russian Federation, until 1991. With his back to its entrance, Boris Yeltsin faced down the Soviet tanks that had rebelled against the then president of the USSR, Mikhail Gorbachev, an act which marked the beginning of the end of the Communist regime.

All-Russia Exhibition Centre

Presided over by a Vostok R-7 8K72 rocket, what is now a convention centre and amusement park was one of Moscow’s main tourist draws during the Communist era. Built in 1939 as an Agricultural Exhibition, it was gradually transformed into a huge park intended to exalt and glorify the economic, scientific and technological achievements of the various republics making up the Soviet Union.

Stolovaya 57

There are a number of restaurants that relive Soviet cuisine 25 years on. Two classics from that period have survived in the iconic GUM galleries – Festivalnioye Café and Stolovaya 57. Then there are hangouts like Detir Ayka (25 Nikitski Boulevard), featuring a Communist menu with such delicacies as stewed fruit, soups and semolina porridge, washed down with shots of vodka or GlavPivTorg. The locale is housed in the former Transport Ministry building which, apart from providing Communist-style cuisine, features a vast library with the complete works of such illustrious figures as Marx, Engels and Lenin.

The Seven Sisters

These high-rises plot one of the most characteristic flourishes on the Moscow skyline –

Moscow State University, Hotel Ukraina, Kotelnicheskaya Embankment Apartments, the Russian Ministry of Foreign Affairs, the Kudrinskaya Square Building, the Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya Hotel, and the Red Gates Administrative Building. The seven buildings in Russian Baroque and Gothic style would have been eight, had the construction of the originally planned Palace of the Soviets come to fruition. The Seven Sisters were built in the 1940s and 1950s to commemorate the 8th centenary of the founding of Moscow.

Lenin’s Mausoleum

The embalmed body of Vladimir Lenin is kept in Red Square, the site of formidable, solemn Red Army parades. Built on the orders of the Soviet State in 1924 following the death of the father of the Revolution, his tomb was designed by the architect Alexey Shchusev, who was inspired by the Pyramid of Zoser and that of Cyrus the Great in Pasargad. Despite Boris Yeltsin’s attempt at having it closed down, Lenin’s Mausoleum is still open to the public free-of-charge on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m.

Moscow Metro

It provides the best way of moving about the Russian capital on account of its exceptionally low price and high frequency of trains – one every 40 seconds at peak hours. Over and above its efficiency, the Moscow underground is an authentic, highly impressive work of art. Inaugurated in 1935, the first line linked the Sokolniki and Kievskaya stations. For its grandeur and its enduring aesthetic sublimation, it is a veritable palace of the proletariat.

FSB Museum

Officially dubbed the FSB Museum (FSB stands for Federal Security Service), it has nevertheless been known locally as the KGB Museum ever since it opened in 1989. Located in the former seat of the Committee for State Security (KGB) in Lubyanka Square, the exhibition features gadgets associated with espionage that seem to have leaped out of the television series,The Americans,including explosive devices, cameras concealed in beer cans, etc. The FSB Museum transports visitors back to the days of the Cold War and the atmosphere of double agents infiltrated in enemy territory.

Museum of Soviet Arcade Machines

Soviet youths also spent their time playing with gaming machines, although they were of course all Soviet-made and extremely expensive, costing from 2,500 to 4,000 rubles. Espoused by three nostalgics for Communist arcade machines, the Museum of Soviet Arcade Machines brings together such gems from that era as mini-skittles, machines for killing aliens (with a capitalist ideology, I would imagine) and the popular shaibu-shaibu ice-hockey game. A whole journey back in time, before which you need to first change thirty rubles into three of the old Soviet kopeks. The collection keeps growing.

Sculpture Park in Krymsky Val

Colossal statues of the Communist leaders were one of the most characteristic sights in squares and parks in Soviet cities. These massive effigies gradually disappeared from the urban environment with the fall of the USSR in 1991. The endless collection of sculptures eventually found safe haven in the statue park of the Krymsky Val Museum. The catalogue runs into over 700 statues sculpted in stone or bronze, prominent being that of Felix Dzerzhinsky, a monument in honour of the revolutionary of the same name who was the first director of the Cheka. Needless to say, there are several imperial effigies of Lenin and Stalin, oblivious to the passage of time.

Come and discover the surviving vestiges of Communist Moscow – book your Vueling here.

Text by Oriol Rodríguez for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Kirill Vinokurov, Dennis Jarvis, David Orban, Rob, Jason Eppink, Helena Volkova

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