The Azulejo Tiles of Portugal
When you first visit Portugal, one of the things that invariably catches your eye is the pervasive presence of ceramics and wall tiles in ornamentation. Whether used as wall facings on the inside and outside of buildings – on churches, palaces or private homes, both in large cities and small villages – ceramic tiles are king in Portuguese decoration. Unlike the rest of Europe, where they are used more sparingly, in Portugal they seem to take over the walls. They feature in two major varieties – polychromed tiling and the signature blue-and-white combination, some of which are technically and aesthetically superb.
This cultural heritage of Moorish origin first took seed in Portugal in the 15th century, having entered the country via neighbouring Spain. It soon became the wall facing of choice among Portuguese royalty. The use and quality of ceramic tile decoration reached their zenith in the 18th century. Nowadays, azulejos are still very much in vogue and large workshops continue to operate.
While ceramics are in evidence throughout the country, following is a selection of the leading sites. They are well worth visiting – both for the exquisiteness of their ornamentation or owing to the presence of a large production centre.
Lisbon
As befits a capital, Lisbon is graced with numerous examples of azulejo tile facings, which even cover the walls of the city’s metro system. Among some unusual landmarks to be found in the city is the Quinta dos Azulejos, housed in the Colégio Manuel Bernardes on Paço do Lumiar street. The sheer decorative beauty of the scenes depicted on the walls in the garden is simply stunning.
However, the main reason for including Lisbon in this tour is the Museu Nacional do Azulejo, where visitors can learn all the ins and outs, production techniques and history of this quintessentially Portuguese element of architectural ornamentation. It is also a good point to start off the tour.
Aveiro
This small, beautiful city, also called the “Venice of Portugal” for its canals, which you can sail along in colourful boats known as moliceiros, is enchanting in itself. A coastal city famed for its fishing and salt production, it has a beautiful centre with outstanding examples of Modernist buildings. The authentic jewel of this city is the Railway Station, striking for its ceramic ornamentation and a fitting final flourish to any visit here. The polychromed azulejos feature depictions of railway scenes, as well as motifs from nature, culture and traditional activities. And, while you are in the city, be sure to see the beach with its bathing boxes painted in colourful stripes.
Ovar
This coastal city is worth visiting for its beaches, but it also boasts a large number of public buildings adorned with azulejos, most of which come from the factories at Vila Nova de Gaia and Aveiro. The plethora of tiled wall facings has earned Ovar the nickname of the “Azulejo Museum City”.
Válega
Just six kilometres from Ovar lies the village of Válega, where you should make a point of visiting the Church of Nossa Senhora do Amparo. Its walls are faced, both inside and out, with mostly polychromed tiles, except for the external side walls and back, which are bicoloured in blue-and-white tiles. Construction work on the church began in 1746 and lasted for a whole century.
Ilhavo
Ilhavois noteworthy above all for its Vista Alegre Factory, one of the most internationally acclaimed sites in Portugal. Founded by José Ferreira Pinto Basto in the early 19th century for glass and porcelain production, it houses a museum where visitors can learn about ceramics culture through the collections on display and the values associated with Vista Alegre.
Book your Vueling to Lisbon and discover for yourself this wonderful ceramic ornamentation on Portuguese buildings and monuments.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Sunny Ripert
more infoMilan by Panenka
By Panenka www.panenka.org
Sporting Eleven
1 Milanello Since 1963, the day to day of rossonero team happens in this wooded environment, located just 50 km. from the city,
2 Giuseppe Meazza San Siro Named as the district by Milan supporters or Giuseppe Meaza, a former neroazzurro, by the Inter supporters.
3 Ippodromo di San Siro The annex hippodrome does have the name of San Siro. Spectacular night races.
4 La Pinetina En Appiano Gentile Angelo Moratti (Massimo’s father) and HH invented the Inter sports city.
5 Mediolanum Forum The Milan Olimpia, three times European Champion and managed by Scariolo, has its home in Assago.
6 Velodromo Vigorelli The most famous velodrome in Italy where Coppi, Anquetil or Moser broke the hour record.
7 Arena Civica Gianni Brera Of Roman inspiration, dates from 1807 and since 2002 is named after the renowned journalist.
8 Orologio Inter Milan was born in 1908, at the Orologio restaurant, typical place to hang out when leaving the Scala.
9 Giro d’Italia Every year, the magnificent shadow of Duomo greets the Giro’s maglia rosa (pink jersey) in the final stage of the race.
10 La Gazzetta dello Sport At Via Solferino 28 they are writting up sports journalism’s most famous pink pages.
11 Fiaschetteria Toscana AC Milan has its first headquarters in this extinct patisserie located at via Berchet crossing with via Foscolo.
Touristic Eleven
A Santa Maria delle Grazie Leonardo’s Last Supper is situated on two of the walls of this domenican church.
B Triennale di Milano Newest of Design and Modern Art, in the Palazzo dell’Arte in Sempione Park,
C Pizzeria Biagio One of the best places to enjoy the gentle art of Italian pizza. Always reservation needed.
D I navigli It’s not Venice, but Milan also can enjoy channels. They arrive to Lake Como.
E Bar Magenta There is nothing more Lombard than appetizer before dinner. We recommend: sbagliato Negroni.
F Discoteca Hollywood It is more likely to meet any Milan or Inter player here than on the lawn of Meazza
G La Scala The Maracana for opera. Lover or not of bel canto, one of those things you have to do once in your life.
H Il DuomoThis Gothic cathedral boasts of having the largest windows in the world is surrounded by downtown Milan
I Luini The most suitable bakery for tasting panzerotti, the Italian version of empanadillas.
J La Bruschetta Osteria From the outside it does not draw your attention and hides the best of traditional Italian food.
K Idroscalo Because there is no beach. Milanese people go for a swim to this artificial lake of the city when weather is good.
Do you fancy going to Milán? Check out our flights!
By Panenka www.panenka.org
Ilustration by Pep Boatella / @pepboatella
more infoTwo hours in Hamburg
By Marlys and Michael Easy Hiker
Let’s be totally honest about this: The best thing about Deutsche Bahn’s Across-the-Country 1-day rail pass (the “Quer-durchs-Land” ticket or QdL for short) is that it’s very cheap. 48 Euros for two people on any regional train in Germany: that’s an unbeatable offer.
Journeys take a little longer than on the fast IC trains, that much is for certain, and their trajectories may be slightly more convoluted, but that can be a benefit, too.
Recently, on our way back from a hike in the Mecklenburger Seenplatte, for example, we took the opportunity to break up what would otherwise have been a very long train journey to make a two-hour stop in Hamburg. Two hours in Hamburg are not a lot for such a big city, Germany’s largest after Berlin, but we had been there several times and knew where to go. In the end, we were surprised how many of the city’s main sites we were able to cover.
From the central train station, head straight (down Mönckebergstraße) for the so-called Binnenalster, Hamburg’s poshest mile. Along its banks, you can find some of Germany’s biggest private banks, most expensive hotels and fanciest restaurants.
The huge and opulent building on the artifical lake’s southern shore is Hamburg’s City Hall, built in the 19th century with the era’s typical sense for flash and grandeur.
Walk down past the Alsterfleet canal, underneath the Alsterarkaden colonnades, before turning right on Stadthausbrücke and heading for St Michael’s Church, Hamburg’s main landmark since it was built in the 17th century – famous not least because it was the first building of the city that many of her visitors, coming from the sea, were able to spot in the distance.
The church may look rather austere from the outside, but the interiors are as tacky as a West End theatre. (Entrance is free, but you are encouraged to donate €2 when you leave. Alternatively, you can squeeze by the burly lady who guards the exit door. Best to wait, probably, for one of the other tourists to distract her with a question – that’s what I did, anyway.)
The street on the right hand side of the church, by the way, leads you straight to St Pauli – Reeperbahn, Star Club and all that. (Unfortunately, we had no time for that.)
Instead, we turn left out of the church, past the modern offices of Gruner & Jahr, one of Germany’s largest publishing houses, in the direction of the harbour, one of the ten largest in the world.
Turn left to head for the Speicherstadt (“warehouse town”), my favourite part of Hamburg and one of Europe’s greatest works of 19th century architectural engineering, grand and graceful at the same time, a cross between Venice and London’s old docklands. The buildings were all warehouses once, of course, but are today mainly occupied by theatre companies, museums and tourist attractions such as the “Hamburg Dungeon”.
I could easily have spent the rest of the day walking from canal to canal, but there was no time. Instead, we took the subway train back to the city centre (if you have a Länderticket or a QdL Ticket, you are also free to use subways and S-Bahn trains) and had just about enough time for a quiet cup of coffee outside in the April sun on Mönckebergstraße, the city’s main shopping street, 5 minutes away from the central train station.
By Marlys and Michael Easy Hiker
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Spend two hours in Nice
By Michael Schuermann from Easy Hiker
The French Riviera is best understood not as a region or an area but as a single town, a thin coastal strip of settlements never more than a kilometre deep that is stretched out over a distance of 50 miles, like an extruded French version of Los Angeles.
With two hours in Nice, the capital of the French Riviera, you can even play the game “which is which” – with Monaco standing in for Beverly Hills, Cannes rivalling Hollywood in movie star glamour and Menton probably coming closest to the more charming LA neigbourhoods such as Santa Monica or Venice.
And Nice, the largest town on the Côte d’Azur, would undoubtedly be the equivalent of downtown L.A.
If you are an American, you would probably find nothing strange about visiting the French Riviera without going to see its “capital” at least once. I have a friend who lived in LA for five years and had never once been to the downtown area. For Europeans like me, that is a strange, strange thought.
So we did go to Nice for a day-trip, and so should you if you can.
There are more glamorous towns along the coast, cuter ones too, but few that put all the things that make the French Riviera so great into a single, tight package: urbanity, openness, glamour, beaches. Nice has got it all.
Start at the train station, cross the road and head straight down the Avenue Durante to the beach promenade, ……
… the Promenade des Anglais, probably the most famous street along the Côte d’Azur. Take a brief turn to the right for a look at the Hotel Negresco and its famous pink cupola, rumoured to have been modelled after, ahem, les gazongas of the architect’s mistress (oh, the Belle Epoque!)…
… and the equally splendid Hotel Maison de la Mediterranee before turning back along the coast in the direction of the Old Town.
Key sites include the magnificent Opera on Rue Saint Francois de Paule …
… the Cours Saleya with its daily markets of flowers and antiques …
… and the atmospheric Place du Palais with the Palais Rusca, one of the town’s most famous landmarks.
Once you have explored the Old Town a little, it should be just about the right time for lunch. We suggest you go into one of the many shops that serve a local specialty called Socca, aromatic pancakes made from chickpea flour baked in a wood-fired oven. Served with nothing but a pinch of salt and pepper, it’s simply delicious.
If you have had any doubt as to whether Nice is an Italian town or not: Place Garibaldi with its colonnades and a statue of Italy’s national hero – who was actually born in Nice (when the town was still a part of Italy) –will provide you with all the evidence you need.
Walk from here to the Place Massena, another of the city’s main squares …
… and finally down Avenue Jean Medecin, the city’s main shopping street, back to the train station.
There are many sites for which you will not find the time within a two hour visit, such as the famous orthodox church (you will get a tempting glimpse when you depart or arrive by train), but you can always come back, of course. We know that we certainly will.
By Michael Schuermann from Easy Hiker
Why not take a trip to Nice? Have a look at our flights here!
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