Where To Have Your Eats And Treats In Montmartre
Marlys Schuermann, the other half of the @ParisBuFF team on Twitter
Montmartre may not have a world-famous or a Michelin starred restaurant to boast of, but it certainly has a lot to offer visitors on a budget when it comes to eats and treats. Restaurants and bistros offer tasty meals at reasonable prices. You just have to know where to go to avoid being trapped in one with bad food (and bad service to boot.)
Here are a few suggestions of where you can go if ever you find your tummy grumbling for a meal or even for just a simple treat when visiting Montmartre:
1. Au Cadet de Gascogne
4, Place de Tertre – It can’t get more touristy than in Place de Tertre, but this restaurant serves a full breakfast till 11 a.m. for €10, which consists of a glass of orange juice served with your warm croissant and jam, an omelette or 3-egg sunny side up with salad, coffee or tea and baguettes. You can’t get a better deal than that anywhere in Paris, where breakfast in a cafe could easily cost you €6 for a slice of baguette with thinly spread jam, orange juice and a cup of coffee.
2. Coquelicot
24, rue des Abbesses – This boulangerie is also a restaurant and just a few steps away from metro station Abbesses. It is a favourite of locals who take a late breakfast or brunch there. Prices of their breakfast offerings might be slightly off-putting, but you go there to sit outside, watching busy life passing by while you leisurely sip from your bowls of hot coffee or chocolate and munch on your pain au chocolat. It also offers a variety of cakes and French pastries that you can take with you to the park.
3. Le Relais Gascon
6, rue des Abbesses, is a restaurant we’ve been recommending to friends and family for years. And each one enjoyed the food so much, they return during the duration of their visits or when they return, and recommend it on to their friends and family. Tip: Order one of their warm salads, served any time of the day. But if you have a big appetite, their week-day lunch menu is great value for money.
4. Trattoria Pomodoro
20, rue de la Vieuville, has one of the best pizzas we’ve tasted in Montmartre. It is located in one of the remaining streets that will still give you an idea of how cobblestoned Montmartre looked like before boutiques and numerous souvenir shops mushroomed in the area.
5. Le Grenier à Pain
38, rue des Abbesses, – This boulangerie shot to fame (was even featured in the New York Times) because its chief bread maker baked the best baguette in Paris in 2010. The baguette is well and truly good, but what got the international press in a flurry is the fact that this particular boulanger happened to be a Senegalese. But don’t just try their baguette, with which they make their freshly made sandwiches. Their cakes are moist temptations, too.
6. Les Petits Mitrons
26, rue Lepic – You can’t walk by this little patisserie in the market street of Montmartre without drooling over the hand-made fruit tartes displayed in its shop windows. Chances are, you’ll go in there and get yourself a slice of one of their delectable cakes. If sweet tartes aren’t your thing, they also have savoury ones.
7. Au Grain de Folie
24, rue de la Vieuville – There was a time, vegetarians had difficulty finding a Parisian restaurant serving meat-free dishes. This restaurant was one of the very first dedicated to providing vegetarians an excuse to go out for a meal and it’s still going strong.
Author: Marlys Schuermann, the other half of the @ParisBuFF team on Twitter
Image: Au Cadet de Gascogne
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Tabancos: back to their origins
In these premises they sell by the litter the well-known vinos de Jerez ( wines from Xeres) that can be also tasted in the same place along with some snack in this kind of winery or social tavern. The name of Tabancos comes from the union of estancos and estacos de Tabacos, two different places in their origin, back end XVII century. At the estancos it was common to sell products controlled by the Spanish government and at the estancos de tobacco the products that come all the way from America and they have begun to be commercialized.
In the beginning these venues were only for men. Women could only get in to buy some wine but never to taste it in the place. In some of them, they even sell their products through a little window. Fortunately, things have changed and everybody is now welcomed to the romantic Tabancos. Actually, they are now as famous as the old bodegas (wineries), Tabancos are again a meeting place, even for the younger people, who has fallen in love with them again and go there often.
Eating tapas like chacinas, chicharrones cheeses, conserves and mojama is a normal thing to do while drinking this wine of high graduation such as finos, manzanillas, amontillados, palos cortados, olorosos, moscatel or amontillados. Every tabanco has its own speciality and the best thing to do there is asking about their speciality.
Nowadays there is a route for visiting these historic premises that you'd better not miss when visiting the city. You may find all the info regarding this route at the site of Sacristia Del Caminante where is explained everything about the wines from Jerez and the route of Tabancora.
The oldest. Tabanco el Pasaje
Calle Santa María número 8
tabancoelpasaje.com
Founded in 1925, tabanco el pasaje is the eldest that still exist in Jerez. Here the land's traditions and flamenco are still alive. It was closed long ago but the lawryer Antonio Ramirez reopened it with all its personality. Its name is due to the two entrances to the place, the main one at Calle de santa Maria and the back entrance at calle Mesones.
Tabanco de La Pandilla
Calle de los Valientes 14
www.facebook.com/La-Pandilla-Tabanco/
Opened in 1936. As tabanco el pasaje it was closed for some years but it is now open again because of two businessmen who used to be there when they were young and wanted the venue to have the original atmosphere back again. For the purpose they have recouped the old paintings and have refurbished the arks and columns very typical of the wineries in Jerez.
Tabanco Escuela
Calle Porvera 40
www.facebook.com/TabancoEscuela
This tabanco is where it used to be the caballerias of an old bourgeois house from the 19th century. The name is because this was the only school in Jerez back in the end of the 16th century.
Tabanco Plateros
Calle Francos 1
www.tabancoplateros.com
Located in one of the most beautiful squares of the old distict of jerez. At Plateros they want to reestablished the old traditions but in a modern style inthe vinoteca-style. They offer wine tastings along with regional cheeses, chacinas, morcillas, chorizos or butifarras.
Tabanco Las Banderillas
Located at the neighbourhood of San Miguel, it was directed byPedro Flores, father of Lola Flores, the most important artist in Jerez.
Tabanco El Guitarrón de San Pedro
Calle Bizcocheros 16
www.facebook.com/guitarrondesanpedro/
Flamenco, wines, tapas and a good atmosphere just in the heart of Albarizuela, opposite the church of San Pedro. They offer live music, flamenco and poetry. The name comes from a guitar that the workers of theatre Villamaria gave as a gift when the works were finished.
Tabanco San Pablo de Jerez
Calle San Pablo 12
www.tabancosanpablo.es
It opens at 12:00 and soo. It is full of people eager to eat their tapas such as chicharrones, spanish omelette, montaditos or snails with a glass of wine.
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6 Reasons To Escape To Madeira
The Atlantic Ocean is blessed with a group of islands – Madeira – whose main draw is their natural beauty, with a stark contrast between the leafy green vegetation and the deep blue of the Atlantic waters. Not for nothing has it acted as a place of refuge, rest and inspiration over the last few centuries, seeing the passage of such figures as Napoleon Bonaparte, the Empress Sissi, Emperor Charles I of Austria, the writer George Bernard Shaw and Winston Churchill, among others. You could be the next traveller to become captivated by these isles. Here are the main reasons it is worth flying to Madeira:
1. Good Climate All Year Around
The geographical location of these islands and their mountain relief have endowed them with a tropical oceanic climate, featuring pleasant temperatures all year around, ranging from 17°C in winter to 25°C in summer. This means that any time of year is suitable for visiting and enjoying the archipelago.
2. Funchal, the Capital
The capital and one of the largest cities in Madeira is Funchal, which lies in the south of the archipelago. Standout landmarks in the city’s priceless historic centre include the 16th-century Sé Cathedral – noteworthy for its Mudéjar-style, wood-panelled ceiling – and the Igreja do Colégio collegiate church, its interior studded with gold panelling and tiles.
One of the inevitable rituals for sightseers when they come to the city – assuming they are bold enough and don’t suffer from vertigo – is to go up in the cable-car that leads to the lofty suburb of Monte. The hill affords spectacular views of the bay and it is worth visiting the local Monte Palace Tropical Garden and Leite Monteiro Park. The return trip down the hillside can be negotiated on an unusual form of transport – a kind of wicker toboggan driven by two men dressed in white called carreiros who steer the cart down the slope.
3. Unique Fauna and Flora
One of the highlights of the island is the presence of indigenous animal and plant species. A must-see is the World Heritage Laurisilva Forest. Another must-visit are the Desertas Islands, a marine nature reserve which boasts indigenous shellfish and sea birds like Cory's shearwater and the Madeiran storm-petrel. Animal species also include the monk seal, indigenous to the archipelago.
4. Porto Santo Beach
Curiously, the island terrain limits the number of natural beaches to the island of Porto Santo, which has 9 kilometres of fine, golden sand and crystal-clear water. The beach has rightly been considered one of the most beautiful in Europe.
5. Cuisine
Of the typical Madeiran dishes, we can recommend the swordfish, preferably combined with banana, in addition to caldeirada (a fish soup), bife de atum e milho frito (tuna fish with fried corn) and espetada (charcoal-roasted beef on a bay leaf skewer). For dessert, we can heartily recommend a typical sweet known as bolo de mel (a honey cake with Madeira honey).
6. Madeira Wine
Ever since the sugar cane plantations went into decline in the 17th century, having been overtaken by the sugar farming in Brazil, grape-growing and viniculture came into their own and still play an important part in Madeira’s economy. Notable local grape varieties are the Bual – which is similar to Port – Verdelho, Sercial and Malmsey, the most popular of all.
Ready to discover this lost paradise in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean? Check out your Vueling here.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by David Stanley, Greg_Men, penjelly, Krzysztof Belczyński, Hannes Grobe
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Give Your Taste Buds a Treat at Nuremberg Market
They say if you haven’t truly experienced the magic of Christmas until you’ve been to Nuremberg. All the streets decked out in festive lights and decorations while carols ring out to the delight of old and young alike, creating a magical atmosphere imbued with the very essence of Christmas Eve.
From 29 November through to 24 December, the whole city becomes one huge Christmas celebration and a “picturesque village of fabric and wood” appears as if by magic in the heart of the city’s old quarter; the Christkindlesmarkt, one of Europe’s oldest and most renowned street markets.
More than 180 stalls adorned with candles, decorations and winter plants tempt visitors with their toys, local crafts, nativity scenes, Christmas ornaments and, above all, delicious sweets and wholesome culinary delights. The air is filled with an enticing mixture of aromas, from spices and wine through to toffee, nuts and savoury treats. Absolutely EVERYTHING is a temptation for the senses. What are the best things to try while strolling around the Christkindlesmarkt?
MULLED WINE
What better to ward off the crisp cold of Nuremberg than a mug of mulled wine. This hearty drink made with cinnamon, cloves and fruit peel is served in ceramic mugs that visitors can take home with them as a souvenir from the Christkindlesmarkt. They even do a non-alcoholic mulled wine for the kids to try.
FEUERZANGENBOWLE
This famous punch is named after the sugar tongs used in its concoction. To make Feuerzangenbowle, dry red wine is slowly heated in a large punch bowl, along with rum, caramelised sugar, cloves, cinnamon, slices of lemon and orange juice.
BRATWURST
“It is one of the reasons why you never forget Nuremberg”, wrote the poet Jean-Paul (maybe while suffering writer’s block), in reference to the sausages par excellence originating from this Bavarian city: bratwurst. They are on sale all around the city at stalls equipped with giant barbecues, so you’re bound to gobble up more than one during your stay. They are served in a bread roll, garnished with sauerkraut or potato salad, or even as a three-in-one known as a “weggla”. To make sure you only get the real McCoy, it’s worth knowing that an authentic bratwurst from Nuremberg is between seven and nine centimetres long, no more and no less.
NUREMBERG LEBKUCHEN
No Christmas is complete without some famous lebkuchen: a biscuit made from nuts, honey and spices covered in chocolate or icing. The recipe has been a closely-guarded secret in Nuremberg for over 600 years and has even been given a protected designation of origin. It’s easy to spot the market stalls selling lebkuchen as nearly all of them look like the witch’s candy cottage from Hansel and Gretel.
And there are many other food stalls selling a wide range of mouth-watering treats, such as candied fruit, all kinds of sweets, caramelised almonds, chocolates, waffles and sauerkraut. But be warned! After indulging yourself in beautiful Nuremberg, you may need to go on a diet for a few days.
CHRISTKINDLESMARKT
From the Friday before the first Sunday of Advent through to 24 December.
Where: in Nuremberg’s main market square (Hauptmarkt) and surrounding area.
Opening times:
Monday to Wednesday: 9am to 8pm.
Wednesday to Saturday: 9am to 9pm.
Sunday: 10.30am to 8pm.
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