A Fiesta to Die For at Santa Marta de Ribarteme
At noon on 29 July each year, in the small Pontevedran church of San Xosé de Ribarteme, one of the most unusual processions in the world sets out – the Romaxe dos cadaleitos (Procession of the Coffins) of Santa Marta de Ribartemeo. San Xosé de Ribarteme is in the municipality of As Neves, some 30 kilometres from Vigo, which for centuries remained isolated from the influence of traditional, orthodox Catholicism.
The effigy of St Martha is paraded at the procession of Santa Marta de Ribarteme,protectress of the helpless and patroness of lost causes, one of the most devoutly worshipped virgins in the community. She is also the sister of Mary Magdalene and Lazarus, who was raised from the dead by Christ after having been dead for three days. Alongside her effigy and the images of St Benedict and the Virgin of Carmen, a funeral cortege comprising open coffins with living people insidefiles past, the coffins held aloft by family and friends. It is a profound act of faith, combining religion and symbology, by which the faithful intend to fulfil a promise they have made to St Martha out of gratitude for having survived some near-death experience. As the cortege files past, the other pilgrims sings the praises of the virgin’s healing powers to the rhythm of drums and the constant pealing of bells.“Virgin St Martha, Star of the North, we bring you those who saw death”.
The enactment breathes spirituality and a devotion typical of the Galician heartland. Visitors may be shocked by the scene, but every year more and more faithful, tourists and passers-by come to this small Galician village to experience this special moment. Galicia is a land of legends in which death and resurrection often play a major role. Stories which unfold across misty landscapes, like the one about the Holy Campaign – a procession of tormented souls who, in their grim wanderings, visit the homes where someone is about to die. This mysticism is part of the land’s charm – to discover the essence of Galicia, one has to come to terms with its ancestral customs.
In the International Limelight
The procession is arousing increasingly more interest among tourists and journalists around the world. It even came to the notice of The Guardian which ranked it the second most unusual festivity in the world, a fact which has increased its fame even further. Other landmarks in the area have also come to the prestigious newspaper’s notice – it has classed Rodas Beach and the Cíes Islands, in the archipelago of the same name in Pontevedra province, as the most beautiful in the world.
The journal, National Geographic, also set its sights on the Rías Baixas in a documentary on cultural traditions and communities around Europe. In the course of its making, the television presenter, Darren McMullen, got heavily involved in the action by climbing into one of the processionary coffins.
«El Concello de As Neves»
The Concello de As Neves municipality, closely linked to the river Miño, which forms the natural border with Portugal along a 10-kilometre stretch, is an ideal spot for delving into the past. This is evident at A Pedra da Moura, in the Taboexa parish district, and Monte das Carboeiras, in Liñares, as well as in the military vestiges at Cividá, Rocha and Altamira. The beautiful landscapes of As Neves can be viewed from several routes skirting the Miño riverbanks, notably the Sendeiro dos Pescadores de As Neves, which winds along the Galician side of the river, and the Ruta do Patrimonio Natural e Histórico-Artístico, a circular route which traverses the thirteen parish districts in the As Neves municipality.
Concello de As Neves also boasts fine cuisine, with such local produce as lamprey, baby eel, game, honey and queixo (cheese) das Neves, ideally washed down with a white wine from the Miño riverbanks such as Condado or Albariño, or the Rubios red.
Come and live out this extraordinary experience. Check out our flights to Vigo here.
Text by Scanner FM
Images by Ricardo Grobas for Vivir Galicia Turismo, Galicia Maxica, Un paseo o una foto
more infoPorto Simply Unique
Porto, Portugal’s second largest and second most important city after Lisbon, grew up on the banks of the Douro river over a period of more than a thousand years. No wonder, then, that its historic inner city is listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Indeed, its serene beauty never fails to move any visitor.
What You Should Not Miss – 10 + 1 Proposals
- Wandering through the Old Quarter is one of your first priorities if you want to appreciate the eternal beauty of medieval Porto. In the course of your stroll, you will come across splendid buildings in different architectural styles, notably the La Sé or Cathedral, the Episcopal Palace and the house of the Canon Domingos Barbosa, among others.
- Another stunning tour, which costs only 10 euros, is a ride in one of the rabelos (small boats) along the beautiful river Douro, especially at dusk; a tour which takes you under the city’s six bridges.
- Not to be passed up is a sunset stroll along the Dom Luís I Bridge. Built by one of Gustave Eiffel’s disciples, it links the Porto riverside to the harbour of Vila Nova de Gaia. At 178 metres high, it affords the best panoramas of the city.
- Also highly recommendable is a foray down Gustave Eiffel Street, flanked by multi-coloured buildings on the hillslopes. The street leads to the old Maria Piar ail bridge, built by Eiffel himself. You simply cannot leave Porto without taking a selfie on this spot!
-In the Boavista district stands the Casa da Música, one of the most modern buildings in Porto, designed by the Dutch architect, Rem Koolhaas. Make sure you go out onto the terrace to enjoy a Portuguese-style coffee – a dense espresso which in Lisbon is called a bica, while in Porto it is known as a cimbalino –or treat yourself to a delicious brunch in their restaurant.
- Visit the Serralves Foundation Contemporary Art Museum. It lies within the so-called Serralves Park, Portugal’s largest urban park. Make the most of it by going on a relaxing walk. It is here that the well-known NOS Primavera Sound is held every summer.
- Go into the Lello Bookshop, one of Europe’s oldest and most picturesque book stores. J.K. Rowling, the authoress of “Harry Potter”,was captivated by it and, during her stay in Porto, drew inspiration from it for the backdrops to some of the scenes in her famous book.
- Very near the book store is the city’s most beautiful shop, A Vida Portuguesa. This is the ideal place for purchasing all types of Portuguese products – fashion, design, home furnishings, textiles… It’s a dream of a shop, stocked by its owners, who roam the length of Portugal seeking out the country’s most beautiful products.
- The most romantic and touristic quarter of Porto is Ribeira, located on the riverbank, which forms part of the historic city. The Cais da Ribeira street is lined by all kinds of terrace cafés and here the waterfront is buzzing with life. By night, treat yourself to a drink on one of the terraces while taking in the views of the Douro.
- You cannot leave without tasting the francesinhas, a sandwich of ham, cheese, fresh sausage, steak, egg and other ingredients. You will love it, we guarantee! And, if you have more of a sweet tooth, drop in on any pastry shop and ask for a nata, a traditional pastry which has its counterpart in the Beléms of Lisbon.
- Lastly pay a visit to Vila Nova de Gaia, a must-do outing if you’re visiting Porto. Situated on the banks of the Douro, it is the paradise of the famed Port wine. Over 15 certified Port labels offer guided tours of their wineries, which include tastings, to instruct visitors on the merits of their fine wines.
Are you getting the travel bug? Then, come in here and check out our flights.
Text by Tensi Sánchez of actitudesmgz.com
Photos by Fernando Sanz
more infoVintage Trip To Aranjuez
Among the host of outings to go on in Madrid’s outlying area is one to Aranjuez, with its panoply of artistic, cultural and ecological heritage sites. Not for nothing was it listed by UNESCO as a World Cultural Landscape in 2001.
The Strawberry Train – Experiencing a Bygone Age
For enthusiasts of both old times and new experiences, there is an alternative and highly original way of travelling from Madrid to Aranjuez, which is by taking the Strawberry Train. But, what makes this means of transport so different from the others? First, it runs on the second railway line to be built in Spain, inaugurated on 9 February 1851. The first line to come into operation was the Barcelona–Mataró line, opened in 1948. The aim of the second route was to connect Madrid to the coast, with Alicante as the final destination. In its early days, its importance lay in the produce it transported to Madrid from the market gardens in Aranjuez, prompting it to be known as the Strawberry Train.
Its other big draw is that the train operating this line was built in the early 20th century. Having been restored, it gives you the feel of what train travel was like in bygone days. It has a rakish engine with wooden carriages. And, during the journey, passengers are offered strawberries from Aranjuez by hostesses dressed in period costume. The Strawberry Train runs at weekends in May, June, September and October and leaves from the Railway Museum or Museo del Ferrocarril. The timetable is posted here.
Aranjuez, An Area of Courtly Recreation
Aranjuez’s fortunes changed when Philip II awarded it the title of Royal Site. It was turned into the Spanish monarch’s country residence, thus becoming a royal precinct, particularly during the reigns of Philip V (17th-18th century) and Charles III (18th century). It was precisely these kings who commissioned the creation of the areas which are now the city’s must-see sights. In line with prevailing tastes during the Enlightenment, the inner city was designed in a reticular layout which has survived to the present and never fails to surprise visitors.
Among the standout monuments is the Royal Palace, designed by the architects, Juan Bautista de Toledo and Juan de Herrera. It also features a later extension, including the wings added in 1775. The interior houses such curiosities as the Porcelain Study – the capital work of the Royal Porcelain Factory in Madrid’s Buen Retiro – and the Arab Study, inspired by the Hall of the Two Sisters in the Alhambra of Granada.
Also worth visiting is the Real Casa del Labrador (Farmer’s Lodge), set in the so-called Prince’s Garden, the work of Juan Villanueva and Isidro González Velázquez. Lastly, another notable landmark is the Church of San Antonio, commissioned by Ferdinand VI in honour of St Anthony of Padua.
Another standout feature of Aranjuez is its Royal Gardens. There are four in all, namely the Parterre, the King’s Garden,the Island Garden and the Prince’s Garden, situated on the Tagus riverbank and within the Royal Palace precinct. They were all designed as recreational areas for the Court and attest to a blend of French taste acquired from the Bourbons and Italian influences, yielding a stunning result which is worth strolling around and enjoying.
Wait – There’s More!
For those who aren’t satiated by monuments and gardens, another feature of Aranjuez is its huerta or market gardens, among the most important in Spain. Situated between the Tagus and Jarama rivers, the fertile soil produces such crops as asparagus – here known as pericos– and strawberries, introduced by the French Bourbons. The latter also patronised farming research and experimentation on this land, as evinced in the surviving Renaissance layout of the allotments.
Don’t fail to make a gastronomic stopover to savour the fruit of this land. A classical option is Casa José, one of the most celebrated restaurants in the Madrid Community.
Ready for a getaway with a period twist? Check out our flights here.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by Eric Titcombe, M a n u e l, Andrés Gómez - Club Ferroviario 241
more infoTabancos: back to their origins
In these premises they sell by the litter the well-known vinos de Jerez ( wines from Xeres) that can be also tasted in the same place along with some snack in this kind of winery or social tavern. The name of Tabancos comes from the union of estancos and estacos de Tabacos, two different places in their origin, back end XVII century. At the estancos it was common to sell products controlled by the Spanish government and at the estancos de tobacco the products that come all the way from America and they have begun to be commercialized.
In the beginning these venues were only for men. Women could only get in to buy some wine but never to taste it in the place. In some of them, they even sell their products through a little window. Fortunately, things have changed and everybody is now welcomed to the romantic Tabancos. Actually, they are now as famous as the old bodegas (wineries), Tabancos are again a meeting place, even for the younger people, who has fallen in love with them again and go there often.
Eating tapas like chacinas, chicharrones cheeses, conserves and mojama is a normal thing to do while drinking this wine of high graduation such as finos, manzanillas, amontillados, palos cortados, olorosos, moscatel or amontillados. Every tabanco has its own speciality and the best thing to do there is asking about their speciality.
Nowadays there is a route for visiting these historic premises that you'd better not miss when visiting the city. You may find all the info regarding this route at the site of Sacristia Del Caminante where is explained everything about the wines from Jerez and the route of Tabancora.
The oldest. Tabanco el Pasaje
Calle Santa María número 8
tabancoelpasaje.com
Founded in 1925, tabanco el pasaje is the eldest that still exist in Jerez. Here the land's traditions and flamenco are still alive. It was closed long ago but the lawryer Antonio Ramirez reopened it with all its personality. Its name is due to the two entrances to the place, the main one at Calle de santa Maria and the back entrance at calle Mesones.
Tabanco de La Pandilla
Calle de los Valientes 14
www.facebook.com/La-Pandilla-Tabanco/
Opened in 1936. As tabanco el pasaje it was closed for some years but it is now open again because of two businessmen who used to be there when they were young and wanted the venue to have the original atmosphere back again. For the purpose they have recouped the old paintings and have refurbished the arks and columns very typical of the wineries in Jerez.
Tabanco Escuela
Calle Porvera 40
www.facebook.com/TabancoEscuela
This tabanco is where it used to be the caballerias of an old bourgeois house from the 19th century. The name is because this was the only school in Jerez back in the end of the 16th century.
Tabanco Plateros
Calle Francos 1
www.tabancoplateros.com
Located in one of the most beautiful squares of the old distict of jerez. At Plateros they want to reestablished the old traditions but in a modern style inthe vinoteca-style. They offer wine tastings along with regional cheeses, chacinas, morcillas, chorizos or butifarras.
Tabanco Las Banderillas
Located at the neighbourhood of San Miguel, it was directed byPedro Flores, father of Lola Flores, the most important artist in Jerez.
Tabanco El Guitarrón de San Pedro
Calle Bizcocheros 16
www.facebook.com/guitarrondesanpedro/
Flamenco, wines, tapas and a good atmosphere just in the heart of Albarizuela, opposite the church of San Pedro. They offer live music, flamenco and poetry. The name comes from a guitar that the workers of theatre Villamaria gave as a gift when the works were finished.
Tabanco San Pablo de Jerez
Calle San Pablo 12
www.tabancosanpablo.es
It opens at 12:00 and soo. It is full of people eager to eat their tapas such as chicharrones, spanish omelette, montaditos or snails with a glass of wine.
Makes you want to go, right? Do it! Check out our prices here!