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Berlin’s Fleamarket Scene. Lazy Sunday Afternoons

Words: Jos Porath – Photos: Lena Aliper

Sunday is the day of rest?! Not so in Berlin. While the party crowd is still going strong, or else nursing their hangovers, sipping espressos and hiding behind dark shades, treasure seekers, bargain hunters and lovers of curiosities flock to the flea markets that pop up all over this mecca of kitsch and knick-knacks on the weekend. Something of a time-honoured tradition, many of the capital’s streets, parks and squares transform into bustling Wunderkabinetts that are a must-do for anyone after a unique gift (to others or self), or a souvenir of the best way to do Sunday strolling in Berlin.

While antiques, vintage clothes, GDR memorabilia, attic finds and someone’s-junk-another-one’s-treasure pieces still dominate, many vendors are also local artists, fashion designers or jewellery makers, offering a chance to snap up one-of-a-kind item particular to Berlin’s creative scene. With twenty plus flea markets to chose from on most weekends, the following top three picks showcase the best of what the barter-and-bargain scene has to offer.

Mauerpark

For those not shy of rubbing shoulders, the flea market at Mauerpark is a must-see. Berlin’s biggest and busiest flea market, this maze features everything from Edwardian nightgowns over formica coffee tables to oversized 1980s knit sweaters, and local designers and artists, and fresh food and drinks stalls to boot. Plan a whole day first scouting the goods, then hang out in the adjoining park watching bands, buskers and performers, or get involved in some open air karaoke.

Bernauer Straße 63-64, Prenzlauer Berg

U8 Bernauer Straße
Sunday, 7 am – 5 pm
Tram M10 Friedrch-Ludwig-Jahn-Sportpark

 

Arkonaplatz

A five-minute walk from Mauerpark, the flea market at Arkonaplatz is located in a leafy, residential part of town. A much smaller and more upscale/less digging through smelly boxes affair, browsing and shopping here has an almost bespoke quality to it. While the vendors finding, selecting, cleaning and repairing the goods on offer at this market is reflected in the prices, it can make for a welcome shortcut to finding pieces that are either in astonishing condition or have been lovingly restored.

On Arkonaplatz, Prenzlauer Berg

Sunday, 10 am – 4 pm
Tram M1/M12 Zionskirchplatz

 

Nowkoelln Flowmarkt/Kreuzboerg Flowmarkt

Berlin is becoming younger, hipper and more international by the day, and the flea markets most reflective of these exciting changes are the Nowkoelln Flowmarkt near the canal at Maybachufer, as well as Kreuzboerg flea market in the Prinzessinnengardens in the heart of Kreuzberg. Aiming to attract a younger crowd with a well-presented and priced selection of hip second hand items, trendy vintage pieces and timeless design objects, as well as top notch food and coffee stalls, the two markets are a great place to stroll, browse and people-watch.

Nowkoelln Flowmarkt, Neukölln

Maybachufer
Every first and third Sunday of the month, 10 am – 6 pm
U8 Schönleinstraße

Kreuzboerg Flowmarkt
Prinzessinnengärten, Kreuzberg
Every second and fourth Sunday of the month, 10 am – 6 pm
U8/Bus M29 Moritzplatz

Words: Jos Porath – Photos: Lena Aliper

 

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Tabancos: back to their origins

In these premises they sell by the litter the well-known vinos de Jerez ( wines from Xeres) that can be also tasted in the same place along with some snack in this kind of winery or social tavern. The name of Tabancos comes from the union of estancos and estacos de Tabacos, two different places in their origin, back end XVII century. At the estancos it was common to sell products controlled by the Spanish government and at the estancos de tobacco the products that come all the way from America and they have begun to be commercialized.

In the beginning these venues were only for men. Women could only get in to buy some wine but never to taste it in the place. In some of them, they even sell their products through a little window. Fortunately, things have changed and everybody is now welcomed to the romantic Tabancos. Actually, they are now as famous as the old bodegas (wineries), Tabancos are again a meeting place, even for the younger people, who has fallen in love with them again and go there often.

Eating tapas like chacinas, chicharrones cheeses, conserves and mojama is a normal thing to do while drinking this wine of high graduation such as finos, manzanillas, amontillados, palos cortados, olorosos, moscatel or amontillados. Every tabanco has its own speciality and the best thing to do there is asking about their speciality.

Nowadays there is a route for visiting these historic premises that you'd better not miss when visiting the city. You may find all the info regarding this route at the site of Sacristia Del Caminante where is explained everything about the wines from Jerez and the route of Tabancora.

The oldest. Tabanco el Pasaje
Calle Santa María número 8
tabancoelpasaje.com

Founded in 1925, tabanco el pasaje is the eldest that still exist in Jerez. Here the land's traditions and flamenco are still alive. It was closed long ago but the lawryer Antonio Ramirez reopened it with all its personality. Its name is due to the two entrances to the place, the main one at Calle de santa Maria and the back entrance at calle Mesones.

Tabanco de La Pandilla
Calle de los Valientes 14
www.facebook.com/La-Pandilla-Tabanco/

Opened in 1936. As tabanco el pasaje it was closed for some years but it is now open again because of two businessmen who used to be there when they were young and wanted the venue to have the original atmosphere back again. For the purpose they have recouped the old paintings and have refurbished the arks and columns very typical of the wineries in Jerez.

Tabanco Escuela
Calle Porvera 40
www.facebook.com/TabancoEscuela

This tabanco is where it used to be the caballerias of an old bourgeois house from the 19th century. The name is because this was the only school in Jerez back in the end of the 16th century.

Tabanco Plateros
Calle Francos 1
www.tabancoplateros.com

Located in one of the most beautiful squares of the old distict of jerez. At Plateros they want to reestablished the old traditions but in a modern style inthe vinoteca-style. They offer wine tastings along with regional cheeses, chacinas, morcillas, chorizos or butifarras.

Tabanco Las Banderillas
Located at the neighbourhood of San Miguel, it was directed byPedro Flores,  father of Lola Flores, the most important artist in Jerez.

Tabanco El Guitarrón de San Pedro
Calle Bizcocheros 16
www.facebook.com/guitarrondesanpedro/

Flamenco, wines, tapas and a good atmosphere just in the heart of Albarizuela, opposite the church of San Pedro. They offer live music, flamenco and poetry. The name comes from a guitar that the  workers of theatre Villamaria gave as a gift when the works were finished.

Tabanco San Pablo de Jerez
Calle San Pablo 12
www.tabancosanpablo.es


It opens at 12:00 and soo. It is full of people eager to eat their tapas such as chicharrones, spanish omelette, montaditos or snails with a glass of wine.

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The city of vermouth

In general the rule is that the further north you go in Italy, the more entrenched is the habit to enjoy the appetizer. Not surprisingly, the Piedmont area is known for the production of vermouth with brands such as Martini, Cinzano and Carpano.

The vermouth was invented in the cellar of Antonio Carpano’s in Turin in 1786 and from there the Piedmontese nobility made it fashionable. There are other versions that trace their origin to Hippocrates, the famous Greek physician who mixed white wine with plants like the wormwood to create a beverage for medicinal purposes. But it was not until 1838 that the brothers Giuseppe and Luigi Cora began to develop it industrially and distributed it worldwide.

Now the word vermouth has a more generic meaning. It refers both to the drink and to eat a tapa before lunch. In Italy the starter is not at noon as in Spain, but after work. It usually starts from 18:00 and end at 21:00 AM and is an economical way to take a break from work while sipping a drink and snacks, which can be alcoholic or not.

A very common option is the spritz, -with aperol, champagne, an orange slice and ice- the Negroni -with gin, campari, vermouth and an orange slice- the mascerotti -with wine, soda and champagne- or the Amaretti di Voltaggio, which goes along with their famous focaccia, savory pastries and other delicacies.

In Genoa, a port where botanical species from around the world arrived, the habit is strictly fulfilled and the tastiest appetizers are prepared. Here vermouth is a deeply ingrained habit, a social act that almost no one renounces. A moment to enjoy after work, listening to the tinkling of ice crashing.

You can have it in the historical premises or in the modern establishments that agglutinate especially in the Piazza delle Erbe, San Donato, Via San Bernardo or Porto Antico area.

Here’s the theory, now let's put it into practice!

Pasticceria Liquoreria Marescottis Cavo
Via di Fossatello, 35R and 37R

In the old town of Genoa, -the largest medieval quarter in Europe- you can find this historic café, bakery and liquor store. A local that dates back from the eighteenth century, which retains its old Charles X style furniture and a floor designed by Rubens himself. Tourists come to the establishment to observe the "prettiest pastry Genoa", to try their high quality confectionery and the Marescotti appetizer, a herbal vermouth.
You must keep an open mind to find the restaurant on the first floor because they have no sign.

Le Corbusier
Via di San Donato, 36R

Another historic local is Le Corbusier, specialists in cocktails-some self-created- and that has gained prestigious national and international awards. Martini itself can be found in twelve different variants.

Caffè il Barbarossa
Piano di Sant Andrea 23
www.cafeilbarbarossa.com

With an enviable location -very close to the house where Christopher Columbus lived-, and one of the most fun places to enjoy the most original appetizer in Genoa with its pleasant outdoor area, especially during summer.
The Caffè Barbarossa offers a wide range of whiskeys, cocktails and international wines and sparkling Genoese, in their restaurant, you will find vegetarian and vegan dishes. Look closely at their walls where the original rates of the brothels of the historical town hang.

Libreria delle Erbe
Piazza delle Erbe, 25R


An old bookstore downtown now transformed into a modern place. It still retains the spirit of the literary coffee -to consult and buy books-but, while enjoying cultural interventions you can also have a good coffee, snacks, cocktails, wines and beers.
They have a full weekly program of activities for lovers of art and culture.

Picture by Termolan

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A Fiesta to Die For at Santa Marta de Ribarteme

At noon on 29 July each year, in the small Pontevedran church of San Xosé de Ribarteme, one of the most unusual processions in the world sets out – the Romaxe dos cadaleitos (Procession of the Coffins) of Santa Marta de Ribartemeo. San Xosé de Ribarteme is in the municipality of As Neves, some 30 kilometres from Vigo, which for centuries remained isolated from the influence of traditional, orthodox Catholicism.

The effigy of St Martha is paraded at the procession of Santa Marta de Ribarteme,protectress of the helpless and patroness of lost causes, one of the most devoutly worshipped virgins in the community. She is also the sister of Mary Magdalene and Lazarus, who was raised from the dead by Christ after having been dead for three days. Alongside her effigy and the images of St Benedict and the Virgin of Carmen, a funeral cortege comprising open coffins with living people insidefiles past, the coffins held aloft by family and friends. It is a profound act of faith, combining religion and symbology, by which the faithful intend to fulfil a promise they have made to St Martha out of gratitude for having survived some near-death experience. As the cortege files past, the other pilgrims sings the praises of the virgin’s healing powers to the rhythm of drums and the constant pealing of bells.“Virgin St Martha, Star of the North, we bring you those who saw death”.

The enactment breathes spirituality and a devotion typical of the Galician heartland. Visitors may be shocked by the scene, but every year more and more faithful, tourists and passers-by come to this small Galician village to experience this special moment. Galicia is a land of legends in which death and resurrection often play a major role. Stories which unfold across misty landscapes, like the one about the Holy Campaign – a procession of tormented souls who, in their grim wanderings, visit the homes where someone is about to die. This mysticism is part of the land’s charm – to discover the essence of Galicia, one has to come to terms with its ancestral customs.

In the International Limelight

The procession is arousing increasingly more interest among tourists and journalists around the world. It even came to the notice of The Guardian which ranked it the second most unusual festivity in the world, a fact which has increased its fame even further. Other landmarks in the area have also come to the prestigious newspaper’s notice – it has classed Rodas Beach and the Cíes Islands, in the archipelago of the same name in Pontevedra province, as the most beautiful in the world.

The journal, National Geographic, also set its sights on the Rías Baixas in a documentary on cultural traditions and communities around Europe. In the course of its making, the television presenter, Darren McMullen, got heavily involved in the action by climbing into one of the processionary coffins.

«El Concello de As Neves»

The Concello de As Neves municipality, closely linked to the river Miño, which forms the natural border with Portugal along a 10-kilometre stretch, is an ideal spot for delving into the past. This is evident at A Pedra da Moura, in the Taboexa parish district, and Monte das Carboeiras, in Liñares, as well as in the military vestiges at Cividá, Rocha and Altamira. The beautiful landscapes of As Neves can be viewed from several routes skirting the Miño riverbanks, notably the Sendeiro dos Pescadores de As Neves, which winds along the Galician side of the river, and the Ruta do Patrimonio Natural e Histórico-Artístico, a circular route which traverses the thirteen parish districts in the As Neves municipality.

Concello de As Neves also boasts fine cuisine, with such local produce as lamprey, baby eel, game, honey and queixo (cheese) das Neves, ideally washed down with a white wine from the Miño riverbanks such as Condado or Albariño, or the Rubios red.

Come and live out this extraordinary experience. Check out our flights to Vigo here.

 

Text by Scanner FM

Images by Ricardo Grobas for Vivir Galicia Turismo, Galicia Maxica, Un paseo o una foto

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