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Naples Underground

Visitors to the every surprising and – for many – chaotic Naples have a huge array of things to see and do. Interesting sights include its magnificent churches, like those of San Francesco da Paola and Gesù Nuovo, castles like the Castel dell’Ovo and such amazing archaeological jewels as those on display in the National Archaeological Museum, including exhibits from the ancient sites at Pompeii and Herculaneum. You could also just stroll through the streets of its Centro Storico, designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. And, of course, all such sightseeing requires timely stopovers to indulge in their excellent pizzas, which is why we have come to the place where this popular dish first saw the light.

As if all the things we can enjoy on the city’s ground level were not enough, in its bowels lurks a whole world of tunnels, galleries, catacombs, cisterns and countless spaces where the earliest traces unearthed belong to the founders of Naples – the Greeks. The latest of them endure into our own times, as the Camorra is said to have used the network for their drug running and their undercover meetings. Nowadays, particularly in recent years, this hidden face of the city, known as the Naples Underground or Napoli Sotterranea, has been attracting ever greater attention and has now become yet another tourist attraction. And, understandably so, as many a story lies buried in that subsoil.

As mentioned in passing, it was the Greeks who first started building that “invisible” underground city for the purpose of defence and as a place of worship. The Romans continued where the Greeks left off, although they took things a step further – they created a network of underground channels and aqueducts for water conveyance. Much of that original system of water channelling continued to be used in the city until the early-20th century. Also from those ancient times are the remains of a Greco-Roman theatre which visitors can see on a tour of subterranean Naples. Legend has it that Nero himself sung in the theatre during an earthquake set off by the nearby volcano, Vesuvius.

Persecuted for their faith, the early Christians used those catacombs to gather for prayer and to bury their dead. Indeed, one of the most striking features of the Naples Underground is precisely the Catacombs of San Gennaro, tunnelled out of a large chunk of the Capodimonte hillside. They are the largest catacombs in southern Italy. With passageways arranged on two unstratified levels, they feature some fresco remains from the late-2nd-century AD. Interestingly, San Gennaro is the city’s patron saint, while the catacombs were the burial site of Neapolitan bishops and a place of pilgrimage up until the 11th century. There are two other catacombs in the city –San Severo, of which only a small cubicle remains, and San Gaudioso, reached via the Basilica of Santa Maria della Sanità.

Apart from acting as hideouts, means of conveyance and access routes to the city, these passageways were also turned to belligerent purposes, as on more than one occasion they were used to mount surprise attacks on the city. That was true of operations conducted by Belisarius in the year 536, and Alfonso of Aragon in 1442, or at least that is how the story goes. Closer to our times, the underground was used as an air-raid shelter during World War II. Objects surviving from that horrific period can still be seen there.

Entrance to the Naples underground is via the Piazza San Gaetano, 68 and guided tours are available in Italian or English. Scheduled times are given on their website.

Embark on an adventure of discovery in the Naples Underground and unearth the stories hidden there. Check out your flight here.

 

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Adele84Adele, Armando Mancini, Andrea Tosatto, Giuseppe Guida, AlMare

 

 

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Santiago de Compostela For Kids

As ever more families reach the city of the Apostle, James the Elder, we decided to create a post on discovering and enjoying the city in the company of children. Listed as a World Heritage site, Santiago de Compostela is small and picturesque, like a fairy-tale city. It is also quiet, safe and very pleasant to stroll through. Here are some recommendations for getting the most out of it.

Time Travel in the Inner City

The good thing about Santiago’s old town is that much of it is a pedestrian precinct. This is a boon for parents as they don’t need to have their surveillance system switched on all the time. The old quarter is quaint enough to spawn a thousand and one stories. It is criss-crossed by endless narrow backstreets, little houses and arcades and the large, old paving stones are great for playing a variety of hopscotch. The peaceful squares have loads of space to play in and there are numerous open-air café terraces. The Cathedral, the old street names and the gargoyles provide endless props to play around with.

Once immersed in the maze of streets, one useful strategy is to visit the Cathedral. This millennial building is adorned with a host of sculptures prompting as many stories, starting with that of James the Apostle, which dates back to the time of Christ’s death. That’s just one of many there! We recommend a guided tour of the stone roofing via the entrance at the Pazo de Xelmírez, Praza do Obradoiro. There you will discover stunning panoramic views of the city and its environs.

Now that gastro-contests are all the rage on television, you won’t have any trouble persuading the little ones to gain first-hand knowledge of the ingredients used in dishes throughout the Compostela area. The best way to approach this is to visit the Mercado de Abastos, open every morning except Sundays and public holidays. The market was built in 1941, although the city’s previous market had been operating for 300 years. The building is important in that it was the first time any of the various, widely scattered, markets in Compostela was roofed.

For Children, the Park is a Must

Parks are an essential resource when you’re visiting with children. It’s edifying for them get a feel for the world of culture in the form of visits to museums, cathedrals or other urban landmarks but, for them, travelling is basically entertainment and where better to have a good time than in the park? Santiago has quite a few to choose from where kids can play and enjoy nature without leaving the city. Many of them boast playgrounds with swings, sandboxes and sports areas. There is the Parque de la Alameda, the favourite among locals, which is very central. It is also ideal for relaxing while the children play. It has a pond with ducks accustomed to being admired, an interesting pigeon loft, an elegant bandstand and an unusual “sound bench” – a large, semicircular stone seat which conveys sound very clearly – among other things. The area adjoining the Campus Universitario Sur (Southern University Campus) is also a well equipped playground, while the campus itself is great for short bicycle or tricycle rides, skating or doing other sport. It has a meadow with a lot of shade and a variety of trees – white cedar, camellias, magnolias, pine, cedar, juniper, gingkos… Our favourite, however, is the Parque de San Domingos de Bonaval, on the grounds of the former Convent of San Domingos. This is a monumental, mysterious and highly alluring park offering an array of possibilities – an oak wood, a small garden, large lawns and even a desacralised cemetery. It is ideal for lying around, running about, picnicking and even taking panoramic photos, as it faces the historic town and the point where the sun sets.

Santiago de Compostela clearly offers everything a holidaying family could want. Come and discover it! Check out our flights here.

 

Text and images by Santiago de Compostela Turismo

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Trails through the most beautiful landscapes in Cantabria

Cantabria is pure nature. In a small territory there is a wide range of landscapes, lovely beaches, cliffs, green valleys with exuberant nature and even the greatest mountains at Picos de Europa (a.k.a. “the Picos”).

Through these routes of incomparable beauty the hidden secrets of Cantabria will be revealed in the perfect spot for the most demanding hikers.

The redwood forest in Monte Cabezón

Follow the path in this forest, which was declared a natural monument, is a great experience. Some people think that this kind of vegetation can only be found in California but that’s not true. At Monte de las Navas there are thick redwood forests where sequoias can reach 36 meters high. To get in the park, you should go to the limit between the towns of Cabezón de la Sal and Udías to take the path that leaves from the parking there.

Nansa valley

There are many routes you can choose here. One of the most famous is the thematic path dedicated to water, the river route in Nansa, which links many viewpoints, all linked to the hydrology of the valley and its natural heritage. It begins at Uznayo, where the Collavín river starts, and finishes at Tina Menor. In total, coming and going through this path takes around 14 kilometers, from the top to the river’s mouth.

Oyambre Natural Park

At the same coastal zone of Saja and Nanja there is the Oyambre Natural Park, which has one of the best-conserved coastlines in the area. It covers the area from Comillas to San Vicente de la Barquera, and includes the estuaries in La Rabia and San Vicente de la Barquera, with large areas of marshland, dunes and beaches like Oyambre. This is a beautiful natural landscape to discover, with the Picos de Europa as a background.

The Aliva route

The perfect route to follow would be to start from Fuente Dé, at the foothills of Picos de Europa, and to take the cable car to Mirador del Cable. From here, you can go down Horcadina de Covarrobes to reach the valley of Camaleño, with lovely views. The route takes about 11,5 kilometers and is doable in about 4 hours, more or less.

Along the Cantabrian coastline

One of the best-conserved sections of the Cantabrian coastline is the area that goes from La Tablía, in Suances, along the coast to Punta Ballota. It goes by the beaches of Sable de Tagle or San Telmo and through Ubiarco coastline until it reaches the inlet of Puerto Calderón. This is a pleasant route that takes about 10 kilometers, specially meant for families.

Caballo lighthouse

By the Buciero hill you can follow a route of about 12 kilometers that passes by the Caballo lighthouse and mysterious holm oak forests. The route starts in Santoña, passing by the coastline of Berria and the old prison in El Dueso. At the end, the reward is a stunning view from the cliff at the Caballo lighthouse.

The route from Faro de Cabo Mayor

If you prefer to stay in the city, there is a nice route in Santander that leaves from the lighthouse in Cabo Mayor, at the northern area of the city. This lighthouse is also a museum dedicated to the Cantabrian artist Eduardo Sanz and his hyperrealist work of marshes, waves and lighthouses. From here you can take a route that goes along the coast and ends at Virgen del Mar, taking about an hour and a half, in total, to complete.

Picture from Áliva by Florentino Alonso

We’ll be there. If you want to come too, check out our flights here.

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Have a Delicious Viennese Ice cream

You’ve spent the whole day traipsing about the city, tracking down the legacy of the Habsburgs in Vienna, soaking up its architectural gems, like Schönbrunn Palace, and visiting such splendid museums as the Albertina. The heat is oppressive – recall that it is not always cold in Vienna and in summer it bears its brighter side, as long as it doesn’t rain. You are also starting to become fatigued. Maybe it’s time to take a breather and chill out on your visit to Europe’s “musical capital”. You have heard a lot about the city’s magnificent cafés and the weighty tradition surrounding them, but what increasingly draws your attention is the sheer number of ice-cream parlours scattered about the Austrian capital. Time to check out whether Viennese ice-creams have anything on the popular Italian ice-creams. And, you are amazed to find that the Italian fare has found a stiff competitor in Vienna!

In a nutshell, this could be the experience of many tourists or other travellers passing through the city on discovering the Viennese penchant for this refreshing confectionery. You might wonder how ice-creams ever arrived here in the first place, and how they got to be so good. After doing a bit of research into the history of ice-cream, the first thing you realise is how muddled are the references when it comes to establishing a place and time when that creamy delight first appeared on the scene. However, it transpires that it first came to light in Mesopotamia around 4,000 BC in the form of boiled rice mixed with spices and milk, all wrapped in snow. This is one of the diverse forms the original recipe seems to have acquired. It was the Italians who spread it across Europe, while the French started adding some fresh ingredients to the blend. What all the sources consulted coincide in is that ice-cream reached Vienna in the 19th century, brought here by northern Italians, and that the city played an important role in applying new techniques to ice-cream making. It would not be amiss to conclude that the Viennese flair for crafting confectionery, added to the skills of the Italians when making ice-cream, inevitably led to such a successful final outcome.

So, if you’re planning to escape to Vienna, be sure to add to your to-do list the task of venturing into the heart of its myriad ice-cream parlours and trying out their refreshing delicacies. The city is said to have the largest concentration of ice-cream parlours in Europe. Among the most popular venues are Eissalon am Schwedenplatz (located in the Schwedenplatz), Zanoni & Zanoni,which is at Lugeck 7, and the Gelateria Hoher Markt,on Hoher Markt. Another well-known chain of parlours is Paolo Bortolotti, which has three venues on Mariahilferstrasse. And if, in addition to getting tasty ice-cream, you would like it served up in an ambience charged with design, then Eis Greissler is your spot. When it comes to choice, there are even vegan ice-creams to be had – the place to go is Veganista, located in the Seventh District.

Incidentally, for those of you who are fans of Empress Elisabeth – better known asSissi,whose presence is one of the leading draws on any visit to Vienna – one snippet of her lifestyle claims that, as part of her unusual and limited diet, she regarded violet ice-cream as one of her few favourite foods. So, you might want to try that original flavour.

Venture on a getaway to Vienna to savour their tempting ice-creams. Book your Vueling here.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

 

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