The Most Refreshing Road to Santiago
The river-and-sea route along the Arousa estuary and the river Ulla commemorates the sea landing in Galicia of the mortal remains of the Apostle, James the Elder, after his martyrdom in Jerusalem in the year AD 44. James was a fisherman of Galilee, an apostle of Christ, and a preacher of the Gospel in the West. Herod ordered his assassination in the year AD 44.
This is undoubtedly one of the less trodden pilgrim’s routes to Santiago. No ordinary route, it is negotiated mainly by boat, against the magnificent backdrop of the Arousa estuary. The subsequent stretch negotiated on foot is only 26 km long, the distance separating Pontecesures from the holy point of arrival in Santiago de Compostela.
The Sea Route
The route starts in the O Grove fishing village. It has pleasure boats that make most of the journey, with stopovers at mussel rafts, tastings included. But, if you’re hankering after a more genuine adventure, the best approach is to make friends with a local fisherman to negotiate the stretch on a small boat. This is the best way to hear the scores of tales about a route celebrated the world over. And, the shallow draught of the vessel means that reaching the picturesque village of Pontecesures does not involve any major difficulty. It is safest to sail up the river during high tide.
The first few paces of the journey are incredible, sailing right past the shellfish harvesters rummaging between the rocks for clams and velvet crabs on the riverbank. You then wend your way among the mussel rafts, a veritable tangle of floating platforms beneath which you can make out sizeable loads of delicious mussels. From Cortegada Island on, a number of pilgrim’s crosses set on islets and on the shores of the Ulla estuary show the way, traversing the mythical Western Towers of Catoira and the nature reserve of Brañas de Laíño, until you reach Padrón and then on to Compostela.
Feet! You’re Now Required!
The half-ruined towers of the Catoira fortification mark the end of the most maritime estuary. From here on, the two riverbanks start moving together, as if to form a river. The stretch up to Padrón is no longer navigable after the river Sar channelling works were undertaken, but you can reach Pontecesures along the river Ulla. This is the landing point. According to ancient Christian traditions, reworked in medieval texts, after his martyrdom, some of St James’ disciples recovered his decapitated body and took it across the Mediterranean and up the Atlantic coast of Iberia as far as Iria Flavia, in the vicinity of present-day Padrón. They made the voyage in a celebrated “stone boat”, which might have been one of the vessels used for transporting minerals between Galicia and other areas of the Roman Empire. The stone or “Pedrón” is housed in the Church of Santiago de Padrón. Tradition has it that the Apostle’s boat was moored to the stone after its long voyage.
Padrón is a modern town. The boat was moored to a stone or pedrón, which is actually an altar stone that can now be seen under the altar at the Church of Santiago. Padrón, the former Iria Flavia, was one of the great Roman metropoli in Galicia. There are also vestiges of St James at the Fuente de Santiago (Fountain of St James) and in Santiaguiño do Monte, where a shrine and megalithic complexes recollect the Apostle’s early preachings. This maritime route was also plied by the Portuguese, who also celebrate it as the route taken by disciples who brought St James’ relics with them.
Don’t miss out on this maritime route reaching Santiago de Compostela after sailing up the Arousa estuary. Check out our flights here.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Photos by Turismo de Galicia, Turismo de Santiago
more infoA Stroll Through Verona
Situated in the Veneto region in the north of Italy, Verona is a must-see city for those visiting the area. A stroll through its streets and past its monuments transports the traveller to a host of bygone times, from imperial Rome – this was Julius Caesar’s leisure resort – through the Middle Ages, the Renaissance and the periods of French and Austrian rule, up to the present. A rich historic past which has left its mark in the form of buildings, streets and squares, deservedly listed as World Heritage by UNESCO.
The City and its River
Verona is set on a meander of the river Adige, straddled by bridges such as the Ponte Pietra, the sole surviving Roman bridge in the city, and the Ponte Scaligero, with its characteristic battlements. The latter is part of the Castelvecchio, a medieval castle that currently houses one of the city’s leading museums.
Verona and its Roman Past
Noteworthy among the vestiges of Verona’s Roman past is the Arena, an amphitheatre dating from the 1st century AD where gladiators fought. Since 1913 it has been hosting activities more commensurate with our times, notably opera, performed in the summer from June to September. The large size of the amphitheatre, with a seating capacity of 30,000, is suitable for spectacular stage scenery, so don’t miss out on this memorable experience. We also recommend visiting the Roman Theatre, sited on the banks of the river Adige, which is currently part of the National Archaeological Museum. Like the Arena, in summer it becomes a venue for cultural activities; in this case, stage plays.
Thronging Piazzas, Impossible Love Affairs and Places of Worship
In the heart of the historic city lies the Piazza delle Erbe. Built over the old Roman forum and typified by picturesque white sunshades set above the market stalls, this unique spot is always teeming with people. Located in this square are such outstanding buildings as the Baroque Palazzo Maffei, the Torre dei Lamberti, affording magnificent views of the city from its rootop, and the beautifully frescoed facades of the Mazzanti Houses.
The Arco della Costa leads into the Piazza dei Signori, also known as the Piazza Dante, which was the centre of the city’s political activity during the 16th century. Preserved here, among other buildings, are the Palazzo della Ragione and Palazzo di Cansignorio, the seat of political power of the Scala family and the Venetians.
Not far from these magnificent squares, in the Via Capello, stands a landmark no visitor should miss, as it was immortalised in one of Shakespeare’s most popular works and has enshrined Verona as a prime destination for romantics. I’m refering, naturally, to the well-known setting for Romeo and Juliet. Juliet’s House is well worth visiting, although it is no mean feat having to jostle with hordes of other tourists in such a small patio. It does, however, have its charm.
As for religious architecture, not to be missed is the Basilica of San Zeno Maggiore, one of the masterpieces of Romanesque architecture in northern Italy, and the Duomo, also dating from the Romanesque (12th-century), which houses Titian’s Assumption of the Virgin Mary.
Time for Gastronomy
Not everything boils down to walking and sightseeing. You also need to get your strength back and enjoy the region’s culinary delights. We recommend you try the pastissada, a horsemeat stew, the origins of which go back to Roman times.
For those seeking a quicker, more refreshing break, what better than to stop at the Gelateria Zeno Gelato e Cioccolato, located in the Piazza San Zeno, to have one of their magnificent ice-creams.
Ready for a getaway to Verona? Come and discover this gem of Veneto. Check out our flights here.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by Spencer Wright, Lorenzo Blangiardi, Elescir, Kosala Bandara, FotoCla., Jorge Cancela, Allie_Caulfield, Son of Groucho
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The White Truffle – Queen of the Piedmont
If any product is sought after in the culinary world it is the truffle. Some humble fried eggs can be transformed into a veritable delicacy by simply adding thin sections of this aromatic fungus. One of the most coveted varieties is the white truffle found around the Piedmontese town of Alba. Also known under its scientific name, tuber magnatum pico, it is regarded as the “Mozart of fungi” or “white diamond” ofhaute cuisine.In addition to its exquisite taste, truffles are also noted for being one of the most expensive products on the market. When it comes to prices, they can even unseat another gastronomic gem – saffron. In many instances, the price of truffles can be in the €3,000 to €6,000 price range. The record was set by a Hong Kong buyer who in 2010 paid a whopping €90,000 for a truffle!
The main reason for white truffle fetching such high prices is that it is in short supply and difficult to extract. It is found some ten to fifteen centimetres under the ground, where the humidity and freshness conditions are ideal for its growth. Care has to be taken to avoid damaging or breaking the truffle when extracting it, a task requiring some skill and delicateness. Formerly, pigs were used for this purpose, a function now performed by dogs, which also happen to be less likely to consume their find. The truffle-hunting season is limited to autumn and the procedure usually takes place at night, when the sniffer dogs rely heavily on their sense of smell.
Apart from the leading chefs, the host of white truffle enthusiasts includes such celebrities as Alfred Hitchcock, Francis Ford Coppola, Gérard Depardieu, Alain Delon, Penélope Cruz and Oprah Winfrey. One of its outstanding properties is that it does not require cooking, while its scent is highly volatile.
The Great White Truffle Fair
The International Alba White Truffle Fair is held each year in October and November, a grand event which unfolds around this prized natural delicacy but also features tributes to other culinary marvels in the area. The Alba White Truffle Auction is the crowning moment of the fair. Held in the Hall of Masks at Grinzane Castle, is attracts a worldwide following. Incidentally, the auction also involves a good cause, as part of the proceedings are donated to charity.
The fair programme also includes the so-called White Truffle Market where visitors can enjoy themselves by examining, touching and smelling these gastronomic delicacies, all endowed with the relevant quality certifications and displayed amid strict security. Of the many activities hosted is the Alba Truffle Show, which includes debates between prestigious chefs and live cooking sessions at which secrets are revealed regarding ways of getting the most out of the truffle.
However, the limelight is not exclusive to the tuber magnatum pico at this fair, as areas are also dedicated to the region’s gastronomy. The Truffle Market stalls display local produce, notably cheese, sausage, meat, homemade pastries and egg-based pasta. Wines, too, are very much in evidence, including Barolo, Barbaresco, Roero, Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, Barbera, Favorita, Arneis and Moscato.
Fancy discovering this world of taste and aroma? Check out your flight here.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Photos by Blue moon in her eyes
more infoLong Weekend in La Palma
With the major holiday period in the year now behind us, we have to make do with what meagre morsels the calendar offers in the form of long weekends. As a destination, La Palma offers myriad possibilities but, if time is at a premium, you have to narrow your sights. To help you get your priorities right, we have drawn up a set of activities and experiences worth looking into on the “Beautiful Island”, as it is known. So, listen up!
Off to the Beach
La Palma boasts spectacular beaches of black sand – some of them awarded a blue flag – and countless natural pools. And, best of all, they are known for being uncrowded. The feeling of being alone on one of these beaches is invaluable. Tempting, isn’t it? Nogales, Los Cancajos, Bajamar, Echentive, Charco Azul and La Fajana are just some of them.
Venturing Along the Trails
The island features 708 kilometres of trails leading to unique enclaves of extraordinary beauty. And, luckily enough, there are routes for everyone, from cross-country pros to sporadic ramblers.
Enjoy the Night Sky
La Palma also has one of the best astrophysical observatories in the world. The fact it was built here comes as no surprise, as you will see for yourself when you come to the island and gaze up into the night sky. To view the wonderful starry sky, get away from built-up areas and look up. The rest of the experience is your own affair!
Adventures For the Picking
La Palma stands out for the broad array of open-air activities on offer. You can tour along cycle or quad routes, spend the day in a multi-adventure park, visit an organic banana plantation, venture down a volcanic tube, go on long canoe excursions, dive in crystal-clear waters, do hang-gliding or go on a pleasure boat ride. These are just a few options to bear in mind when you plan your next getaway to the Beautiful Island.
Indulge Your Appetite on La Palma Dishes
We recommend the following menu: for starters, chicharrones. As a first course, garbanzas. Main course, carne de cabra con papas arrugadas. And, for dessert, a bienmesabe. We won’t tell you what they’re made of so as not to spoil the mystery! To drink, a good, white albillo wine, a red or rosé, or the unique, grand Malvasia – make sure it’s from La Palma. Bon appetit!
Historical Heritage
Churches with Baroque altarpieces and Flemish art, the likes of Nuestra Señora de Candelaria, in Tijarafe and Nuestra Señora de las Nieves, in Santa Cruz de La Palma. Mansions known ascasonas,with stunning patios and wooden balconies, stone country houses, some with cisterns, especially in the north of the island. La Palma’s architectural heritage is bountiful, featuring well preserved buildings redolent with history which will leave you speechless.
Get going and discover the island for yourself – check out our flights here.
Text and images by Turismo de La Palma
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