Where To Have Your Eats And Treats In Montmartre
Marlys Schuermann, the other half of the @ParisBuFF team on Twitter
Montmartre may not have a world-famous or a Michelin starred restaurant to boast of, but it certainly has a lot to offer visitors on a budget when it comes to eats and treats. Restaurants and bistros offer tasty meals at reasonable prices. You just have to know where to go to avoid being trapped in one with bad food (and bad service to boot.)
Here are a few suggestions of where you can go if ever you find your tummy grumbling for a meal or even for just a simple treat when visiting Montmartre:
1. Au Cadet de Gascogne
4, Place de Tertre – It can’t get more touristy than in Place de Tertre, but this restaurant serves a full breakfast till 11 a.m. for €10, which consists of a glass of orange juice served with your warm croissant and jam, an omelette or 3-egg sunny side up with salad, coffee or tea and baguettes. You can’t get a better deal than that anywhere in Paris, where breakfast in a cafe could easily cost you €6 for a slice of baguette with thinly spread jam, orange juice and a cup of coffee.
2. Coquelicot
24, rue des Abbesses – This boulangerie is also a restaurant and just a few steps away from metro station Abbesses. It is a favourite of locals who take a late breakfast or brunch there. Prices of their breakfast offerings might be slightly off-putting, but you go there to sit outside, watching busy life passing by while you leisurely sip from your bowls of hot coffee or chocolate and munch on your pain au chocolat. It also offers a variety of cakes and French pastries that you can take with you to the park.
3. Le Relais Gascon
6, rue des Abbesses, is a restaurant we’ve been recommending to friends and family for years. And each one enjoyed the food so much, they return during the duration of their visits or when they return, and recommend it on to their friends and family. Tip: Order one of their warm salads, served any time of the day. But if you have a big appetite, their week-day lunch menu is great value for money.
4. Trattoria Pomodoro
20, rue de la Vieuville, has one of the best pizzas we’ve tasted in Montmartre. It is located in one of the remaining streets that will still give you an idea of how cobblestoned Montmartre looked like before boutiques and numerous souvenir shops mushroomed in the area.
5. Le Grenier à Pain
38, rue des Abbesses, – This boulangerie shot to fame (was even featured in the New York Times) because its chief bread maker baked the best baguette in Paris in 2010. The baguette is well and truly good, but what got the international press in a flurry is the fact that this particular boulanger happened to be a Senegalese. But don’t just try their baguette, with which they make their freshly made sandwiches. Their cakes are moist temptations, too.
6. Les Petits Mitrons
26, rue Lepic – You can’t walk by this little patisserie in the market street of Montmartre without drooling over the hand-made fruit tartes displayed in its shop windows. Chances are, you’ll go in there and get yourself a slice of one of their delectable cakes. If sweet tartes aren’t your thing, they also have savoury ones.
7. Au Grain de Folie
24, rue de la Vieuville – There was a time, vegetarians had difficulty finding a Parisian restaurant serving meat-free dishes. This restaurant was one of the very first dedicated to providing vegetarians an excuse to go out for a meal and it’s still going strong.
Author: Marlys Schuermann, the other half of the @ParisBuFF team on Twitter
Image: Au Cadet de Gascogne
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6 Reasons To Escape To Madeira
The Atlantic Ocean is blessed with a group of islands – Madeira – whose main draw is their natural beauty, with a stark contrast between the leafy green vegetation and the deep blue of the Atlantic waters. Not for nothing has it acted as a place of refuge, rest and inspiration over the last few centuries, seeing the passage of such figures as Napoleon Bonaparte, the Empress Sissi, Emperor Charles I of Austria, the writer George Bernard Shaw and Winston Churchill, among others. You could be the next traveller to become captivated by these isles. Here are the main reasons it is worth flying to Madeira:
1. Good Climate All Year Around
The geographical location of these islands and their mountain relief have endowed them with a tropical oceanic climate, featuring pleasant temperatures all year around, ranging from 17°C in winter to 25°C in summer. This means that any time of year is suitable for visiting and enjoying the archipelago.
2. Funchal, the Capital
The capital and one of the largest cities in Madeira is Funchal, which lies in the south of the archipelago. Standout landmarks in the city’s priceless historic centre include the 16th-century Sé Cathedral – noteworthy for its Mudéjar-style, wood-panelled ceiling – and the Igreja do Colégio collegiate church, its interior studded with gold panelling and tiles.
One of the inevitable rituals for sightseers when they come to the city – assuming they are bold enough and don’t suffer from vertigo – is to go up in the cable-car that leads to the lofty suburb of Monte. The hill affords spectacular views of the bay and it is worth visiting the local Monte Palace Tropical Garden and Leite Monteiro Park. The return trip down the hillside can be negotiated on an unusual form of transport – a kind of wicker toboggan driven by two men dressed in white called carreiros who steer the cart down the slope.
3. Unique Fauna and Flora
One of the highlights of the island is the presence of indigenous animal and plant species. A must-see is the World Heritage Laurisilva Forest. Another must-visit are the Desertas Islands, a marine nature reserve which boasts indigenous shellfish and sea birds like Cory's shearwater and the Madeiran storm-petrel. Animal species also include the monk seal, indigenous to the archipelago.
4. Porto Santo Beach
Curiously, the island terrain limits the number of natural beaches to the island of Porto Santo, which has 9 kilometres of fine, golden sand and crystal-clear water. The beach has rightly been considered one of the most beautiful in Europe.
5. Cuisine
Of the typical Madeiran dishes, we can recommend the swordfish, preferably combined with banana, in addition to caldeirada (a fish soup), bife de atum e milho frito (tuna fish with fried corn) and espetada (charcoal-roasted beef on a bay leaf skewer). For dessert, we can heartily recommend a typical sweet known as bolo de mel (a honey cake with Madeira honey).
6. Madeira Wine
Ever since the sugar cane plantations went into decline in the 17th century, having been overtaken by the sugar farming in Brazil, grape-growing and viniculture came into their own and still play an important part in Madeira’s economy. Notable local grape varieties are the Bual – which is similar to Port – Verdelho, Sercial and Malmsey, the most popular of all.
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Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by David Stanley, Greg_Men, penjelly, Krzysztof Belczyński, Hannes Grobe
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Welcome to the City of Museums
With over forty museums, Basel can well boast of being one of Europe’s cities with the best contemporary cultural facilities. A large number of these numerous museums feature the plastic arts as their central theme, displaying works that range from antiquity to the present. The city’s penchant for collecting has its origins in the 16th century, when collectors hailed from both the private and public sectors. Several private collections have been opened to the public in recent years, augmenting the supply even further.
The Kunstmuseum Basel – the Beginning of Everything
This is the most significant museum in Basel and the largest in Switzerland. Its collections, which date back to 1662, feature works running from the Middle Ages up to the present. Hans Holbein enthusiasts are in for a treat if they come here, as it boasts one of the largest collections of this artist’s work.
The Beyeler Foundation – a European Collector’s Classic
This foundation, housing the collection of the spouses, Ernest and Hildy Beyeler, is one of the largest and most important in central Europe. It is a compendium of classical modern art, from Monet, Cézanne and Van Gogh to Picasso, Warhol, Lichtenstein and Bacon. The counterpoint to these figures is a display of tribal art from Africa, Oceania and Alaska, the contrast producing an interesting result. Also well worth seeing are the surroundings of the beautiful building – designed by Renzo Piano – with its priceless garden.
The Tinguely Museum – an In-Depth Look at the Artist’s Sculpture Machines
Dedicated to the life and work of the Swiss sculptor, Jean Tinguely. The interior of this original building, the work of the architect, Mario Botta, houses the sculpture machines that brought him fame, in addition to documentation, photographs and drawings of his work.
The Antikenmuseum (Museum of Antiquities) – in Search of the Classics
This is the only Swiss museum devoted to ancient Mediterranean art and civilisation. The collection features pieces dating from between the 4th millennium BC and the 7th century AD, sourced from the ancient Egyptian, Greek, Italic and Roman cultures, as well as works from the Near East and Cyprus. Featured are Greek ceramics and sculptures and the section dedicated to ancient Egypt.
Klingental – the Region’s Art Trends
Housed in the Klingental convent church, the Ausstellungsraum Klingental is dedicated to the region’s artistic production.
Schaulager – A Space for the Experts
The building housing this unusual space was designed by the Herzog & de Meuron architects studio. Directed at a specialist art audience, it also hosts events for the public at large and is innovative even in its conceptualisation. It is not intended to be a run-of-the-mill museum, but a storage facility open to the public which houses the undisplayed works of the Emanuel Hoffmann Foundation.
HeK – a Look at New Media in Art Production
The Haus der elektronischen Künste Basel (House of Electronic Arts Basel) specialises in art created using electronic media, known as “new media” or digital art. There are facilities for hosting all kinds of activities associated with these new trends in art. It also hosts the Forum for New Media, as well as Shift, Festival of Electronic Arts.
Schoenthal – Open-Air Sculpture
The former Romanesque convent of Schoenthal, situated half an hour from Basel, houses the Stiftung Sculpture at Schoenthal, a not-to-be-missed sculpture park featuring nearly twenty works by Swiss and international artists. The Romanesque church has been converted into a gallery for temporary exhibitions of contemporary artworks.
Have you taken note of all the art you can see in Basel? Check out our flights here and see it all first-hand.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by Forgemind ArchiMedia, Jean-Baptiste Maurice, John Lord, régine debatty, Rosmarie Voegtli
more infoThe White Truffle – Queen of the Piedmont
If any product is sought after in the culinary world it is the truffle. Some humble fried eggs can be transformed into a veritable delicacy by simply adding thin sections of this aromatic fungus. One of the most coveted varieties is the white truffle found around the Piedmontese town of Alba. Also known under its scientific name, tuber magnatum pico, it is regarded as the “Mozart of fungi” or “white diamond” ofhaute cuisine.In addition to its exquisite taste, truffles are also noted for being one of the most expensive products on the market. When it comes to prices, they can even unseat another gastronomic gem – saffron. In many instances, the price of truffles can be in the €3,000 to €6,000 price range. The record was set by a Hong Kong buyer who in 2010 paid a whopping €90,000 for a truffle!
The main reason for white truffle fetching such high prices is that it is in short supply and difficult to extract. It is found some ten to fifteen centimetres under the ground, where the humidity and freshness conditions are ideal for its growth. Care has to be taken to avoid damaging or breaking the truffle when extracting it, a task requiring some skill and delicateness. Formerly, pigs were used for this purpose, a function now performed by dogs, which also happen to be less likely to consume their find. The truffle-hunting season is limited to autumn and the procedure usually takes place at night, when the sniffer dogs rely heavily on their sense of smell.
Apart from the leading chefs, the host of white truffle enthusiasts includes such celebrities as Alfred Hitchcock, Francis Ford Coppola, Gérard Depardieu, Alain Delon, Penélope Cruz and Oprah Winfrey. One of its outstanding properties is that it does not require cooking, while its scent is highly volatile.
The Great White Truffle Fair
The International Alba White Truffle Fair is held each year in October and November, a grand event which unfolds around this prized natural delicacy but also features tributes to other culinary marvels in the area. The Alba White Truffle Auction is the crowning moment of the fair. Held in the Hall of Masks at Grinzane Castle, is attracts a worldwide following. Incidentally, the auction also involves a good cause, as part of the proceedings are donated to charity.
The fair programme also includes the so-called White Truffle Market where visitors can enjoy themselves by examining, touching and smelling these gastronomic delicacies, all endowed with the relevant quality certifications and displayed amid strict security. Of the many activities hosted is the Alba Truffle Show, which includes debates between prestigious chefs and live cooking sessions at which secrets are revealed regarding ways of getting the most out of the truffle.
However, the limelight is not exclusive to the tuber magnatum pico at this fair, as areas are also dedicated to the region’s gastronomy. The Truffle Market stalls display local produce, notably cheese, sausage, meat, homemade pastries and egg-based pasta. Wines, too, are very much in evidence, including Barolo, Barbaresco, Roero, Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, Barbera, Favorita, Arneis and Moscato.
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Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Photos by Blue moon in her eyes
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