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Warsaw – What to See in Holy Week

Holy Week coincides with the onset of spring, a season associated with milder temperatures. Although you should still pack some warm clothes – jerseys, jacket, raincoat, gloves, cap and scarf – it’s unlikely to snow in Warsaw, unless you’re in the higher mountain areas. And, by early April, the days are quite long and sunny. Unlike in other European countries, during Holy Week in Poland both the Thursday and Friday are working days and most of the museums and shops are open to the public. Visiting hours at churches may be different, however, as in Kalwaria Zebrzydowska, where the largest Good Friday procession of all Poland is held.

As in other areas where the Catholic festivities are traditionally observed, Palm Sunday is celebrated here in style. Like in Spain, in Poland the faithful carry palms, but here they are far more elaborate. Dried flowers and paper flowers go into their careful making by hand. They are so popular here that many towns and villages organise palm contests. We recommend taking the two-and-a-half-hour drive to Łyse, in the region of Masovia, where you can find palms of up to 6 metres high.

Cultural activity also revolves around Easter. The keynote event is the Ludwig van Beethoven Easter Festival. Held in Warsaw, as well as in Krakow and Gdansk, it attracts classical music virtuosos from all over to perform a number of works based on Holy Week themes. The festival alone makes it well worth visiting the city. Over the festive period churches host classical music concerts. The programme features religious works, pride of place going to the staging of the Lord's Sepulchre. This is undoubtedly a good reason for visiting the holy precincts of Poland’s capital city. Even under the Communist regime the uncensored sepulchres stood for the most important political events of the time.

Another high moment of the holy celebration is the blessing of the food. Starting on Easter Saturday morning, crowds of people congregate at the churches bearing adorned baskets containing, in addition to the classical hand-painted Easter eggs, bread, salt, pepper, sausage and an endless assortment of Easter pastries to have them blessed. Once the ritual has been completed, they may then eat meat. In bygone days the baskets’ contents were indicative of the purchasing power of the various families – the greater the amount and variety of food, the high their economic status.

Easter eggs are decorated in different ways and this is often the favourite activity of the younger members of the household. Once boiled, the easiest thing is to colour them with polychromed powders dissolved in water. These colours are sold in small sachets at this time of year. A more natural technique is to boil the eggs in a pot with onion skins, giving the eggshells a dark tinge and, the more onion skin you use, the darker the colour. After the eggshell has dried out, it can be drawn on or incised using a sharp needle.

Easter Monday is noticeably more playful in character and closely linked to rural traditions. In Polish it is known as Lany poniedzialek – “Water Monday” – as Slavic tradition has it that throwing water over the girls is believed to ensure their health and fertility. So, make sure you keep your eyes skinned because even today you can have a bucket of cold water thrown over you.

Cuisine is important in Poland at Easter and tables are decked out with Easter eggs, symbols of a new life. Confectionery also plays a major role, particularly mazurek, a cake based on butter and very thick cream, eggs, sugar and flour. It is also stuffed with nuts, chocolate and fruit (orange or lemon). Another cake typically made during this festive season is kaimak. Although similar to mazurek, the dough contains liquid toffee.

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Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by Polish National Tourist Office

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Local Design Gems

Walking through central Prague it’s hard not to get trapped in the elaborate net of touristy souvenir shops and hot wine stands. But just like in the Dark Ages, there is a hidden layer to the today’s city bustling with lights, sights and stores. Jewelry, accessories and home décor by local artists feeding on the country’s rich design traditions may be hard to spot by accident – but now you don’t have to.

ARTĚL

Started by Karen Feldman back in 1988, now ARTĚL is a renowned glassware brand with 2 stores in Prague and a reputation far beyond. Today, they carry Karen’s own patterned glass items as well as countless multidisciplinary articles by young local designers. Earrings to candles and rings to buttons and postcards, ARTĚL is a seminal element in the local design scene.

Celetná 29 (entrance on Rybná), Prague 1
www.artelglass.com
open daily 10:00-19:00

KUBISTA

Housed in a gorgeous cubist building called the House of the Black Madonna, Kubista shares it with the Czech Museum of Cubism and the Grand Café Orient restaurant upstairs. Focusing on one-of-a-kind cubist (and other) jewelry, lamps, and ceramics, Kubista offers a refined, intimate shopping experience. Each item has the designer’s name on the tag, and extra careful packing and shipping for fragile purchases are available.

Ovocný trh 19, Prague 1
www.kubista.cz/en/
open Tue to Sun 10:00-18:30

DOX DESIGNSHOP

The DOX Centre for Contemporary Art is alone worth a visit, but the Designshop within it puts the huge complex on the must visit map. Attracting a younger crowd in terms of both buyers and designers, the DOX Designshop shows how ambitious artists experiment with jewelry as well as traditionally Czech glass and porcelain,. The Bookshop right nearby offers the best design, art and photo book selection in town.

Poupětova 1, Prague 7
www.dox.cz/en/premises-and-shops/designshop
open Mon 10:00-18:00, Wed & Fri 11:00–19:00, Thu 11:00-21:00, Sat & Sun 10:00–18:00
closed Tuesday

FUTURISTA

A unique gallery slash shop slash workshop spot right next to the Bethlehem Chapel, Futurista Universum strives to offer what’s freshest in the local design world. Go there for an impressive selection of contemporary jewelry with an edge, cheeky accessories, and beautiful minimalist glassware. Check the website for the list of current exhibitions.

Betlémské náměstí 5a, Prague 1
www.futurista.cz/en/stranka-o-nas-2
open Mon to Fri 11:00-18:30, Sat 10:00-18:30

BELDAFACTORY

A family-run business dating back to the 1920-s, BELDAFACTORY fuses classical, contemporary and quirky in their distinctive jewelry, wedding rings and tableware designs. Made by hand with metal, precious stones and enamel, these are offered in their very own shop in central Prague, along with selected works by other local artists. Unique glass and porcelain articles are also available.

Mikulandská 10, Prague 1
www.belda.cz/english
open Mon to Fri 11:00-18:00

Image: Kubista

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Mysteryland Dancing Amsterdam

In Europe, summer is synonymous with music festivals. And as far as such events go, one type stands out head and shoulders above the rest – the ones dedicated to electronic music. The genre agglutinates a heady culture which, added to the fervour of audiences and its clear-cut hedonistic calling – the aim is to dance and have fun – provides a winning combo for the dog days on the Old Continent to throng with must-visit electronic gatherings.

Mysteryland is one of these events, as well as a must-attend rendezvous for all dance lovers or anyone eager to revel in festivals radiating a special charm. Mysteryland offers both ingredients on the weekend of 26 and 27 August – a high-carat lineup and the privileged grounds of Floriade, a complex of gardens and lakes just twenty-five kilometres from Amsterdam and just five from Schiphol, one of the main airports in the capital of the Netherlands.

The best way to get to the Floriade gardens is by train, although the festival organisers offer a bus service from Hoofddorp station in the Haarlemmermeer municipality. This region is famed for its forests and also features the Cruquius Museum, its centrepiece being the largest steam engine in the world, and the legendary Stelling van Amsterdam, a line of wartime fortifications of great historical importance.

Returning to Mysteryland, as intimated earlier, one of its claims to fame is its stunning lineup of artists and groups. Even the most avid fans will be satiated by a clutch of nearly two hundred performances, as will those eager to learn more about dance culture. These two hundred concerts and DJ sessions, backed by powerful visuals and pyrotechnic shows, will be hosted at various venues scattered about the Floriade gardens. Take, for instance, the programme scheduled for the main stage, an all-star game of contemporary electronic music headed by Deadmau5, Alesso,Alok, Broederliefde, Charming Horses, Craig David, Armin van Buuren, Axwell Λ Ingrosso, Benny Rodrigues, Digital Farm Animals, Made in June, Oliver Heldensand Sam Feldt (live), among others.

And, apart from the two main stages, the festival also boasts a space for the legendary Dave Clarke – a not-to-be-missed appointment – as well as the prestigious Mad Decent label, with Ape Drums, Boaz van de Beatz, Boombox Cartel and Dillon Francis. It also has a spot for the Dutch producer couple, Jordy and Sander Huisman, and their MC, Yuki Kempees – together they make up Kris Kross Amsterdam.

Aside from the lineup, Mysteryland offers several options for accommodation. Most suited to all pockets is the campsite at the festival grounds. Access is included in the price of some of the camping packages which you can check out here. The camping area is open from 25 to 28 August and, if you go for it, you also get an extra musical billing, a number of performances in the campsite itself, where you can get into the festival pre-party and the Saturday after-party. The latter is only suitable for the more gung ho, assuming they haven’t already flaked out after a weekend of non-stop dancing. And, if you prefer the comfort of a hotel, Mysteryland also offers ticket packages and day entry plus hotel accommodation.

A couple of tips for ensuring your Mysteryland experience is unforgettable. The festival organisers urge everyone to wear bold outfits, so don’t be shy when it comes to choosing something outlandish – the more colourful, the better. And, listen up – don’t forget to bring along your earplugs – the concert performers and DJs will be blaring out liberally, so their use is officially recommended. In fact, if you forget them at home, you can get some earplugs at the information stands in the Floriade gardens.

Gear up to the rhythm of electronic music at Mysteryland – book your Vueling to Amsterdam here.

Text by Xavi Sánchez Pons

 

 

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Where To Have Your Eats And Treats In Montmartre

Marlys Schuermann, the other half of the @ParisBuFF team on Twitter

Montmartre may not have a world-famous or a Michelin starred restaurant to boast of, but it certainly has a lot to offer visitors on a budget when it comes to eats and treats. Restaurants and bistros offer tasty meals at reasonable prices. You just have to know where to go to avoid being trapped in one with bad food (and bad service to boot.)

Here are a few suggestions of where you can go if ever you find your tummy grumbling for a meal or even for just a simple treat when visiting Montmartre:

1. Au Cadet de Gascogne

4, Place de Tertre – It can’t get more touristy than in Place de Tertre, but this restaurant serves a full breakfast till 11 a.m. for €10, which consists of a glass of orange juice served with your warm croissant and jam, an omelette or 3-egg sunny side up with salad, coffee or tea and baguettes. You can’t get a better deal than that anywhere in Paris, where breakfast in a cafe could easily cost you €6 for a slice of baguette with thinly spread jam, orange juice and a cup of coffee.

2. Coquelicot

24, rue des Abbesses – This boulangerie is also a restaurant and just a few steps away from metro station Abbesses. It is a favourite of locals who take a late breakfast or brunch there. Prices of their breakfast offerings might be slightly off-putting, but you go there to sit outside, watching busy life passing by while you leisurely sip from your bowls of hot coffee or chocolate and munch on your pain au chocolat. It also offers a variety of cakes and French pastries that you can take with you to the park.

3. Le Relais Gascon

6, rue des Abbesses, is a restaurant we’ve been recommending to friends and family for years. And each one enjoyed the food so much, they return during the duration of their visits or when they return, and recommend it on to their friends and family. Tip: Order one of their warm salads, served any time of the day. But if you have a big appetite, their week-day lunch menu is great value for money.

4. Trattoria Pomodoro

20, rue de la Vieuville, has one of the best pizzas we’ve tasted in Montmartre. It is located in one of the remaining streets that will still give you an idea of how cobblestoned Montmartre looked like before boutiques and numerous souvenir shops mushroomed in the area.

5. Le Grenier à Pain

38, rue des Abbesses, – This boulangerie shot to fame (was even featured in the New York Times) because its chief bread maker baked the best baguette in Paris in 2010. The baguette is well and truly good, but what got the international press in a flurry is the fact that this particular boulanger happened to be a Senegalese. But don’t just try their baguette, with which they make their freshly made sandwiches. Their cakes are moist temptations, too.

6. Les Petits Mitrons

26, rue Lepic – You can’t walk by this little patisserie in the market street of Montmartre without drooling over the hand-made fruit tartes displayed in its shop windows. Chances are, you’ll go in there and get yourself a slice of one of their delectable cakes. If sweet tartes aren’t your thing, they also have savoury ones.

7. Au Grain de Folie

24, rue de la Vieuville – There was a time, vegetarians had difficulty finding a Parisian restaurant serving meat-free dishes. This restaurant was one of the very first dedicated to providing vegetarians an excuse to go out for a meal and it’s still going strong.

Author: Marlys Schuermann, the other half of the @ParisBuFF team on Twitter

Image: Au Cadet de Gascogne

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