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The Most Refreshing Road to Santiago

The river-and-sea route along the Arousa estuary and the river Ulla commemorates the sea landing in Galicia of the mortal remains of the Apostle, James the Elder, after his martyrdom in Jerusalem in the year AD 44. James was a fisherman of Galilee, an apostle of Christ, and a preacher of the Gospel in the West. Herod ordered his assassination in the year AD 44.

This is undoubtedly one of the less trodden pilgrim’s routes to Santiago. No ordinary route, it is negotiated mainly by boat, against the magnificent backdrop of the Arousa estuary. The subsequent stretch negotiated on foot is only 26 km long, the distance separating Pontecesures from the holy point of arrival in Santiago de Compostela.

The Sea Route

The route starts in the O Grove fishing village. It has pleasure boats that make most of the journey, with stopovers at mussel rafts, tastings included. But, if you’re hankering after a more genuine adventure, the best approach is to make friends with a local fisherman to negotiate the stretch on a small boat. This is the best way to hear the scores of tales about a route celebrated the world over. And, the shallow draught of the vessel means that reaching the picturesque village of Pontecesures does not involve any major difficulty. It is safest to sail up the river during high tide.

The first few paces of the journey are incredible, sailing right past the shellfish harvesters rummaging between the rocks for clams and velvet crabs on the riverbank. You then wend your way among the mussel rafts, a veritable tangle of floating platforms beneath which you can make out sizeable loads of delicious mussels. From Cortegada Island on, a number of pilgrim’s crosses set on islets and on the shores of the Ulla estuary show the way, traversing the mythical Western Towers of Catoira and the nature reserve of Brañas de Laíño, until you reach Padrón and then on to Compostela.

Feet! You’re Now Required!

The half-ruined towers of the Catoira fortification mark the end of the most maritime estuary. From here on, the two riverbanks start moving together, as if to form a river. The stretch up to Padrón is no longer navigable after the river Sar channelling works were undertaken, but you can reach Pontecesures along the river Ulla. This is the landing point. According to ancient Christian traditions, reworked in medieval texts, after his martyrdom, some of St James’ disciples recovered his decapitated body and took it across the Mediterranean and up the Atlantic coast of Iberia as far as Iria Flavia, in the vicinity of present-day Padrón. They made the voyage in a celebrated “stone boat”, which might have been one of the vessels used for transporting minerals between Galicia and other areas of the Roman Empire. The stone or “Pedrón” is housed in the Church of Santiago de Padrón. Tradition has it that the Apostle’s boat was moored to the stone after its long voyage.

Padrón is a modern town. The boat was moored to a stone or pedrón, which is actually an altar stone that can now be seen under the altar at the Church of Santiago. Padrón, the former Iria Flavia, was one of the great Roman metropoli in Galicia. There are also vestiges of St James at the Fuente de Santiago (Fountain of St James) and in Santiaguiño do Monte, where a shrine and megalithic complexes recollect the Apostle’s early preachings. This maritime route was also plied by the Portuguese, who also celebrate it as the route taken by disciples who brought St James’ relics with them.

Don’t miss out on this maritime route reaching Santiago de Compostela after sailing up the Arousa estuary. Check out our flights here.

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Photos by Turismo de Galicia, Turismo de Santiago

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Cracovia. Pasado y presente.

Krakow is the most touristic and historic city in Poland. In fact, the historic centre was declared UNESCO World Heritage Site because even the city was destroyed by the German army during the World War II, since the reconstruction of the historic quarter -known as Stare Miaso – started in 1950, trying to reconstruct it as close as possible to what it was originally.

The hearth of the city is Rynek Glówny, one of the biggest squares in Europe, always cheerful because of the street musicians and the tourists. By night, the gas lamps still light this place, projecting shadows on the walls of the buildings surrounding the square, from 14th and 15th century, giving this location an atmosphere both gloomy and romantic.

Nowadays, Krakow is a great destination for tourists but still remains all its past in order to have a promising future.

The old Jewish ghetto

It was not located in the current Jewish quarter, Kazimierz, but a bit further, in the Podgórze district. From the original, only parts of the wall remain, some of the streets and a memorial square to the heroes of the ghetto (Plac Bohaterów Getta) with big metal chairs that represent their stolen belongings when they arrived to the ghetto.

Krakow’s ghetto was founded in 1941 and as the Nazi genocide intensified, it began to be overpopulated and people died of hunger or diseases or, even worst, they were killed in the streets.

Aguila pharmacy

Nevertheless, stores were allowed to remain operative. Tadeusz Pankiewicz, the owner of the pharmacy Aquila (Apteka pod Orlem), had a significant role for the Jewish. The pharmacy was a valuable meeting point to smuggle with food, medicines and other valuable objects.

Because of that, Tadeusz Pankiewicz received a honourable mention from the state of Israel. In 2004, Roman Polanski and Steven Spielberg managed the restoration of the pharmacy, which is now part of the city History Museum, showing the murder of Jewish in the ghetto and what an important role the pharmacy had. Polanski, who escaped from the ghetto when he was a child, dedicated his Oscar award for The Pianist to Pankiewicz.

Schindler factory

Another awarded movie made a factory near the ghetto very famous. The history of Oscar Schindler’s factory – which is now also a museum – appeared in the known movie by Steven Spielberg.

The exhibition at this factory, titled “Nazi occupation (1939-1945)” includes an exhibition, reconstructions, images, objects from that period and sounds that make the visit a vivid experience, experiencing what Polish experienced during the Nazi occupation.

Krakow Jewish neighbourhood

The Jewish neighbourhood Kazimierz, formed by one of the biggest Jewish communities in Europe before the World War II, is nowadays a charming and bohemian neighbourhood, with cheerful streets, odd stores and craft workshops, also with a great variety of restaurants serving Hebrew cuisine.

Here you can visit the Old Synagogue (the oldest in Poland), the Remuh Synagogue, next to the Jewish cemetery, or the spectacular Catholic churches of Saint Catherine or the c he Crypt at Skałka. As a curiosity, you should know that this is the place where Spielberg filmed his movie Schindler's List.

Auschwitz-Birkenau

About 60 kilometres away of Krakow there is the sadly famous concentration camps Auschwitz I – first to be built - and Auschwitz II (or Birkenau), built after as an extermination camp.

You can get here easily by train or bus, leaving from the central station for trains and buses at Kraków Główny, it takes about one hour and a half to get there.

The shameful significance of this place is because it is the largest concentration camp built during the Nazi regime and the largest extermination in history, over one million people where killed here. Nowadays, it remains as a memorial to prevent this atrocities to happen again and to not forget the atrocities that took place here.

Cracovia by FotoCavallo Auschwitz by Gigatel Cyf Ltd. | Fábrica de Schindler by Noa Cafri | Barrio judio de Cracovia by Jakub Hałun

A place well worth discovering! Check out our flights here.

 

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The 3 Best Crêperies» in Rennes

We travelled to Rennes but, before embarking on this delectable tour, just a word of clarification – a crêperie does not only serve crêpes, but two, distinct variations. First, there are the galettes, in which the dough is made of water, butter, eggs and buckwheat. They are usually filled with savoury ingredients and accompanied with a glass of cider or a buttermilk known as lait ribot. Then of course, there are the crêpes proper, which are sweet. You have been warned!

Traditional and… Organic Galettes – Crêperie Paysanne

Make sure you stop over at this restaurant in the place Sainte-Anne pedestrian precinct, in the heart of the city. Their crêpes and galettes are really exceptional and the helpings plentiful, spilling out of the dish. The peculiarity of Crêperie Paysanne is that all the dishes are made with organic, regional ingredients. We can recommend traditional Brittany galette, with ham, cheese and an egg garnish. With such tasty, fresh ingredients, this basic galette gives off all its potential in flavour and aroma, particularly if washed down with cider or apple juice, which here are especially potent on account of their organic, homemade character. As if that were not enough, the galettes can be accompanied with a glass of lait ribot, which is currently made only in Brittany. The taste? Something like natural buttermilk, but with a sour, yoghurt aftertaste. Average price: galette + drink - €13 per head.

33 Savoury Specialities, & 33 Sweet Ones – Crêperie Saint-Georges

This is the crêperie which locals recommend and that is always a reliable sign. Here they offer more than 33 galettes and the same number of crêpes. The menu’s originality lies in the fact that each dish pays homage to some illustrious “George”. Special mentions go to George Clooney, featuring fresh goatsmilk cheese, spinach, tomato, cucumber sorbet and basil, and Giogio Armani, with a filling of pan-cooked foie gras, sautéed potatoes, duck magret, fleur de sel and balsamic reduction. Among the most original crêpe dishes are assorted sweets, and Milka or Smarties chocolate, but only for the really sweet-toothed. Modern, elegant interior design which exudes serenity. Average price: galette + drink - €12 per head.

Peace & Food – La Rozell

In downtown Rennes, La Rozell is another prominent venue. While their menu is as worthy of any other crêperie, what singles this one out is its priceless interior patio, where you can dine amid lush vegetation – a genuinely peaceful backwater, secluded from noise and the city bustle. Of the galettes, we especially liked l’armorique (sautéed scallop, bacon, cream and mushrooms). For dessert, try the fouesnantaise,made of apple flambéed with Lambig (a local, cider-based spirit), or the tatin caramel, a delicacy filled with salted butter – one of the region’s treasures – sautéed apple, homemade caramel and vanilla ice-cream. A taste of heaven! Average price: galette + drink - €12 per head.

You’re getting hungry, right? Come to Rennes and try their crêpes and galettes. Check out our flights here.      

Text and images by Laia Zieger (Gastronomistas)

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Mysteryland Dancing Amsterdam

In Europe, summer is synonymous with music festivals. And as far as such events go, one type stands out head and shoulders above the rest – the ones dedicated to electronic music. The genre agglutinates a heady culture which, added to the fervour of audiences and its clear-cut hedonistic calling – the aim is to dance and have fun – provides a winning combo for the dog days on the Old Continent to throng with must-visit electronic gatherings.

Mysteryland is one of these events, as well as a must-attend rendezvous for all dance lovers or anyone eager to revel in festivals radiating a special charm. Mysteryland offers both ingredients on the weekend of 26 and 27 August – a high-carat lineup and the privileged grounds of Floriade, a complex of gardens and lakes just twenty-five kilometres from Amsterdam and just five from Schiphol, one of the main airports in the capital of the Netherlands.

The best way to get to the Floriade gardens is by train, although the festival organisers offer a bus service from Hoofddorp station in the Haarlemmermeer municipality. This region is famed for its forests and also features the Cruquius Museum, its centrepiece being the largest steam engine in the world, and the legendary Stelling van Amsterdam, a line of wartime fortifications of great historical importance.

Returning to Mysteryland, as intimated earlier, one of its claims to fame is its stunning lineup of artists and groups. Even the most avid fans will be satiated by a clutch of nearly two hundred performances, as will those eager to learn more about dance culture. These two hundred concerts and DJ sessions, backed by powerful visuals and pyrotechnic shows, will be hosted at various venues scattered about the Floriade gardens. Take, for instance, the programme scheduled for the main stage, an all-star game of contemporary electronic music headed by Deadmau5, Alesso,Alok, Broederliefde, Charming Horses, Craig David, Armin van Buuren, Axwell Λ Ingrosso, Benny Rodrigues, Digital Farm Animals, Made in June, Oliver Heldensand Sam Feldt (live), among others.

And, apart from the two main stages, the festival also boasts a space for the legendary Dave Clarke – a not-to-be-missed appointment – as well as the prestigious Mad Decent label, with Ape Drums, Boaz van de Beatz, Boombox Cartel and Dillon Francis. It also has a spot for the Dutch producer couple, Jordy and Sander Huisman, and their MC, Yuki Kempees – together they make up Kris Kross Amsterdam.

Aside from the lineup, Mysteryland offers several options for accommodation. Most suited to all pockets is the campsite at the festival grounds. Access is included in the price of some of the camping packages which you can check out here. The camping area is open from 25 to 28 August and, if you go for it, you also get an extra musical billing, a number of performances in the campsite itself, where you can get into the festival pre-party and the Saturday after-party. The latter is only suitable for the more gung ho, assuming they haven’t already flaked out after a weekend of non-stop dancing. And, if you prefer the comfort of a hotel, Mysteryland also offers ticket packages and day entry plus hotel accommodation.

A couple of tips for ensuring your Mysteryland experience is unforgettable. The festival organisers urge everyone to wear bold outfits, so don’t be shy when it comes to choosing something outlandish – the more colourful, the better. And, listen up – don’t forget to bring along your earplugs – the concert performers and DJs will be blaring out liberally, so their use is officially recommended. In fact, if you forget them at home, you can get some earplugs at the information stands in the Floriade gardens.

Gear up to the rhythm of electronic music at Mysteryland – book your Vueling to Amsterdam here.

Text by Xavi Sánchez Pons

 

 

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