The Capital of Sophistication
The city’s versatility enables you to embark on the most varied scavenger hunts. If you’ve already been there and have tried out the rooms with twenty guests in one of the hundreds of Bed and Breakfasts, or you’ve burnt out your Oyster Card visiting London’s various cultural and culinary offerings at affordable prices, now is the time to discover a trendier, more upscale London.
Why not start with breakfast? While it is said to be the most important meal of the day, we could add that it is also the best. Sharing your breakfast cereal with your B&B companions might be great, but one day you’re going to get tired of always being left with the last dregs of milk in the brick. Here’s a tip for navigators: London is not only in the top flight of afternoon teas – it fares very well with all meals up to that hour of the day. It stands to reason – who would turn up their nose at the best sashimi or the choicest Scottish salmon? In addition to some desserts as formidable as Big Ben. At the Cookbook Café - InterContinental London Park Lane buffet, you should invest more time than money, as they offer endless combinations, each more delicious than the next! It’s very central, just behind Green Park, should you need to nod off after so much indulging in flavours.
Later you’ll want to work it off, so a bit of exercise would be in order. In London you need to apply some elbow grease – as your bags are going to get heavy – and become involved in the noble art of trying on clothes. The perfect block bounded by New Bond Street, Old Bond Street and Piccadilly Street will enable you to feel like Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman.There is no spot in the world with a higher concentration of irresistible shop windows! Apart from the top designer brands such as Gucci, Prada, DKNY and Vitorio & Luccino, you can find stores like Abercombrie, which is in Burlington Gardens – a veritable fortress with a spectacular facade on Regent Street – or, if your eyes have become bloodshot from so many labels, the commercial TopShop in Oxford Circus, a ready-to-wear brand far removed from haute couture and much more affordable, famous for being the stellar spot for such models as Kate Moss. It was the first consumer brand with its own parade at the London Fashion Week.
And, after your spree, a pause to refuel would come in handy. A quick tea and a snack at The Wolseley? Spacious, stately and with a palatial ambience, this establishment in Piccadilly is a safe bet for enjoying the classical side of London.
Time to change district. Impeccable streets, formidable facades and luxury finishes – London has some of the most prohibitive districts in Europe. Among these, Kensington which, apart from featuring houses capable of curing hiccups, boasts some stunning (visitable) Roof Gardens on the top of the Derry and Toms building. Then there is the district of Chelsea, a favourite among the royal family. Aside from the opulence exuded by both districts, they also have some small locales where you can steep yourself in stage performances. Jazz comes to the fore mainly at night and music lovers are advised to head for Piano Kensington on the Kensington High Street, as well as to the 606 Club, a long-standing jazz bar in Chelsea.
A review of London’s most exquisite districts would not be complete without mention of the Portobello Road area and its air of a romantic comedy stage. Once considered a “dump” in late-19th-century London, the local potters’ workshops gradually gave way to cafés and shops selling antiques, until the area acquired its present-day character. It is famous for hosting the Notting Hill Carnival, and the locals regard the area as a lively, colourful mini Rio de Janeiro.
After strolling along Portobello Road, the next thing is to wet your whistle at one of the cocktail bars in the area. A good choice would be the Portobello Star, which offers as many types of gin as there are red phone boxes in London. Before midnight, with a nice cool cocktail in your hand, you could then check out the Royal Albert Hall programme.
Next up, if you want to continue carousing – and later end up breakfasting again at Cookbook Café’s buffet – you would need to drop in on one of London’s eternal fashion spots, Annabel’s (Mayfair). Be sure to wear your best apparel – you never know, Lady Gaga might have had the same idea that night. However, you need to first pay their annual membership fee. Behind the walls of this locale lie the most intimate conversations of bohemian London from the 60s, and of the royals, too. And, that carries a price of its own. If that doesn’t work out, you could always try your luck with the demanding bouncers at The Beauchamp, a club vying for the competitive top spot of night time sophistication.
For accommodation, nothing more sophisticated than the Hilton London Bankside. Recently opened, this hotel is a franchise of the legendary hotel chain. Housed in a building with a futuristic, post-industrial air, this marvel will make you feel as if you’re taking part in the action from the film, Her. Located in the heart of Bankside and a stone’s throw from the Tate Modern, one of the most prestigious art galleries in the world, the hotel features a beautiful penthouse with a private terrace, a 100m² leisure area and spectacular views of London. It also boasts a new restaurant, the OXBO Bankside, under the direction of the executive chef, Paul Bates, in addition to The Distillery. This is a destination bar, where you will want to be seen, and it offers over 50 brands of gin, as well as its own beer label. Their buffet breakfasts are memorable – long live buffets! You will be stunned by the interior design, the work of Dexter Moren Associates and Twenty2Degrees, particularly the extraordinary lighting, which adapts to the different times of day!
Seduced already? I’m sure you are. Be bold and prepare your getaway now. Check out our flights here.
Text by Yeray S. Iborra for ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by Michael D. Beckwith, Cristina Bejarano, Klovovi
more infoEight Very Basque Sports
You will often hear me say that I feel Basque by adoption and, if there is something I especially like about the Basque Country, it is their passion for sport in general. There are some I am not very good at, and are only suitable for locals, such as harrijasotzea (stone lifting), lasto altxaketa (bundle lifting), aizkolaritza (tree-felling), esku pilota (open-hand pelota) and even football, which is really big here. There are three local teams in the first division – Athletic de Bilbao, Real Sociedad and Eibar.
However, there are other sports which, as far as I’m concerned, are also well-entrenched in Euskadi. I have chosen the eight I would like to take part in (as a sportsman or spectator) in the next few months. I would also encourage you to try them out, or at least to come and watch them.
1. Cycling – The most widely commented sport may be football, but, in the Baque Country, the one engaged in by most is cycling. Professionally, there is the Vuelta al País Vasco (where you can delight in the famous muro de Aia, in Zarauz, including some ramps with a gradient of 28%), and the Clásica de San Sebastián. For the amateurs, there is the Bilbao-Bilbao, a race you can safely jot down in your agenda. Orbea, the oldest make of bicycles in the world, is visible in all these trials and this year marks it’s 175th anniversary. It has a track record of almost two centuries, in which it has won Olympic Games, triathlon world championships and mountain bike competitions. In short, a sport all Basques can be proud of.
2. Road Racing – After cycling, running is the next most popular sport. The most genuine local race I have ever seen is the Behobia-San Sebastian, a straight-line race that starts near Irún and ends in Donostia-San Sebastián. I will be there again in November and I hope you wll also run it some time. Run for it! Literally, if you haven’t signed up already, because the tickets sell out like hot cakes, both for the race, accommodation and flights.
3. Mountain Running – This is undoubtedly the most genuinely Basque form of running. (It is referred to as trail, but is actually a mountain race.) The culminating race is the Zegama-Aizkorri which, like theBehobia, links two towns and has a limited number of tickets available.
4. Open-water Swimming – With a coastline of over 250 kilometres, the Basque Country may be regarded as territory to be conquered by boat and – why not? – by swimming. The Basques have little fear of cold water or the Cantabrian Sea. Crossings like the Mundaka Swim (from Bermeo to Mundaka), on 27 June, the Getaria Zarautz, on 26 July, or the Vuelta a la Isla en Donosti are unique experiences. Be warned – admission is limited. If you like swimming, we recommend you check out bestplacestoswim and add your comments.
5. Traineras – The trainera is a vessel associated with the Cantabrian seaboard. It is a rowing boat – although it can be fitted with sails – which emerged in the 18th century as a fishing vessel. It subsequently evolved into what is now considered a sporting rowing boat which is strictly regulated in terms of weight, size, etc. Unlike the Olympic rowing boat, the trainera is fixed-seat. Why should this be so? Well, here it is a question of tradition, as that it how the old arrantzales (fishermen) used them. The major competition is the ACT, while the most prestigious one is possibly the Bandera de la Concha, held in Donosti every September. I was lucky enough to spend one morning with the oarsmen of Mundaka, known as Mundakarra, who had competed in the latter race in 1986 and 1987. Now, thirty years on, their trainer, Sabino, continues to spread his infectious enthusiasm among the youth of Mundaka. I also caught the bug – if I am tempted just once more, I’ll be taking up the oars next season!
6. Triathlon – Very much in vogue are the races known as the Ironman or Half Ironman (the most demanding race in this category, which involves swimming 3.86 km, cycling for 180 km and running for 42.2 km). In Euskadi, a full-blooded Basque triathlete is likely to attempt them all. They are all tough and spectacular – Bilbao Triatlón, Zarautz, Memorial Onditz and, while we’re at it, the X-Terra Basque Country. The first two are half-distance; the third is Olympic, with a women’s version the previous day, and the last one is a cross triathlon. What characterises them all? The fact that these races are set against incredible backdrops and an exciting atmosphere.
7. Surfing – Surfing and, now, SUP (Stand Up Paddle) are highly popular in these northern climes. Near Bilbao is the beach of La Salvaje, or Sopela, and Mundaka itself, considered to have had (or to still have) the best left-hander in Europe. All the classics of the ASP (Association of Surfing Professionals) have surfed here. Further towards Donosti lies Zurriola, in the centre of San Sebastián or Zarautz. Schools like Pukas are doing a great job. Apart from surfing itself, SUP (Stand Up Paddle) is also riding the waves big time. Bilbao is very much up with this new pastime, which is why it hosts the Iberdrola Bilbao World SUP Challenge, one of the leading races on The Euro Tour circuit.
8. Red Bull Cliff Diving – This sport is not in any way Basque, but in the last year its popularity has soared after this majestic, stunning competition was held in the Bilbao estuary in 2014. It was so successful for both parties that El Botxo is now included on the Red Bull Cliff Diving circuit for the finals. Here, we’re all supporters of the Czech, Michal Navratil. Who are you rooting for? If you want to soak up the spectacle, you ought to start booking your ticket and accommodation for 27 September. What advice could I offer if you’re up for it? For your overnights, just opposite where the competition takes place is the Barceló Nervión. And, here are four suggestions for eating out: for a good Sunday brunch, nothing better than the Brass or the mercado de La Rivera. If, on the other hand, you’re looking for something more traditional, like the ritual of crawling for pintxos, you are best advised to roam the historic centre or García Ribero street. A third option which would imply more sophistication, but without burning a hole in your pocket, is the Bascook, where Aitor Elizegi has spent years blending the most traditional Basque cuisine with the latest gastronomic trends. Lastly, if you want to indulge in good local fare and you don’t mind leaving Bilbao, go up to Kate Zaharra. There, you will be treated to wonderful views and the best fish you have ever tasted. If after all the intensity you’re still strong enough to work out in the gym or simply wish to chill out in a spa, UP Bilbao offers day tickets.
There you have it – 8 very Basque sports which are also a way of leading a healthy, active life with a local flavour. And, you don’t need to have a surname such as Zubizarreta, Ibarretxe, Urkullu or Igartiburu. Personally, I am elated at having been adopted by this magical land, with all its diversity. Are you up for discovering what sport means to the Basques? Book your ticket here and start working out.
Text by Raúl Casañas
Images by Pello Osoro, Ioana Manolache, Jon Saez, Igor Arzanegui, Jon San Juan, RominaAmato, RedBull ContentPool
Ten Places to Eat and Drink in Moscow
The food thing in Moscow is rather odd – with exceptions, it’s usually simpler and better quality in economical eateries than in pretentious upmarket restaurants. Why should that be? We could go off on a historical, aesthetic, cultural, existential rant that would lead us back to Lenin’s czars, via the Cold War, and end up reflecting on certain post-Perestroika aesthetic criteria affecting much of Russia’s ruling classes, Yeltsin’s new rich now happily ensconced in capitalism. That aversion to minimalism; that Russianhorror vacuiexuded largely by the prevailing fashion, architecture and – of course – gastronomy.
Hence, by adopting the mantra that less is more – an idea many Russians eschew – you will win the gastronomic battle in a city as fascinating as it is hostile, but overwhelmingly beautiful, so different from what we pictured in our mind’s-eye. A city in which you need to have all your wits about you, the impelling need to come to grips with everything which is the driving force behind any journey. And, remain impervious to the odd diatribe hurled at you by Russians of any age and condition, who vent all their pent-up energy just to make it quite clear from the word go that they detest you and everything you stand for.
And, once you have experienced the cold and have been shouted at in Russian; once you have strolled along those huge avenues designed for tanks rather than people, and discovered, to your dismay, that in many respects Moscow is more like London than Moscow, then you will realise you have gained greater insight into the 20th century. And, that nobody who has not borne the brunt of being yelled at forcefully in Russian at least once in their life is in a position to voice an opinion about last century, or about its legacy, its influence on us and, in short, about who we are.
However, as we dedicated long, endless hours of strolling about to existential reflection, we also ate. At times, amazingly poor food, in mainly pseudo-modern restaurants. At others, very tasty food, in those places we are interested in here – notably more modest restaurants. Here, then, is the selection of our ten favourite restaurants in Moscow:
1. Caffe del Parco (Via di Camaldoli, 7)
Take note, hipsters. This will be your favourite restaurant in Moscow, located in what is surely about to become your landmark district in the city – Red October – alongside the river, by way of a Russian version of Williamsburg-Malasaña-Shoreditch still in the making, and that is the best part about it. There aren’t many establishments there yet, although there is the odd interesting store, a bookshop and a good number of restaurants with recycled furniture, bars, DJs and nightlife. Caffe del Parco, recently opened by a Sicilian who settled in Moscow some years ago, is a charming, minimalist café-restaurant where they have recovered the nonna’s recipes and where we were lucky enough to taste one of the best risottos ever. Just another of the thousands of paradoxes Moscow metes out to the visitor.
2. Cafe Mart
Pressing on with our modern streak, this cafe, one of two branches of the Moscow Modern Art Museum, is located in a delightful garden adorned with statues by the Georgian artist, Tsereteli, and packed with families dedicated to the noble art of brunch, with a host of children scuttling about the dining-room or participating in one of the workshops held inside. Delicious coffee, pastries, sandwiches and the odd dish on the simple, unpretentious menu featuring a combination of French cuisine with Georgian specialities in a setting that could well be somewhere in Berlin or Amsterdam.
3. Harat’s Pub
This small, cosy Irish pub on Arbat street, a broad pedestrian avenue that acts as the nerve centre of the city’s shopping and leisure milieu, happens to be one of the few options for having a drink. It is an unusual spot, run by a friendly Muscovite and former resident of Andalusia who loves Latin culture to the extent that he cares less about heading an Irish pub and is unfazed by its siting in one of Moscow’s mainstream precincts where one would expect to find some Russification, rather than forays into the cosmopolitan. He and his rock clientele seem to be enthusiasts of the Spanish beat, so that when you step inside you are hit by a full-blown “Lega-lega-li-za-ción” seemingly blaring out from some boomboxes. Indeed, the crowd here are fans of Spain, Ska-P, imported birras and Ireland in all their magnitude, and this strange yet endearing mix makes for one of Moscow’s most entertaining bars.
4. Varenichnaya N.1 (Arbat, 29)
This is our favourite restaurant in the city, an unpretentious, pleasant, centrally located and economical eatery also on Arbat street which offers traditional Russian cuisine in the form of such dishes as vareniki (a pasta pie with various fillings, topped with a delicious sauce), pelmini (a similar dish of Ukrainian origin) and chebureki (traditional meat-filled pasties). They also have a selection of traditional pancakes, cocktails with or without alcohol, coffee and homemade pastries. All set in large, crowded but very cosy premises with motley adornments revealing extraordinary good taste juxtaposed with others striking one as just the opposite. This matters not the least when you sink your teeth into one of the economically priced delicacies served by charming staff who, surprisingly, are able to communicate in English.
5. Varvary
A rundown of gastronomy in Moscow is not complete without mention of Anatoly Komm, the country’s first chef to earn a Michelin star, who has an avant-garde restaurant offering haute cuisine known as Varvary. If you can afford it, it is worth booking a table in the dining-room run by this eccentric and unclassifiable chef who applies the latest cutting-edge techniques to a base of traditional Russian cooking (soups, smoked food). Komm regrets the terrible autarky Russia is going through and the indigenous people’s reluctance to open up to influences from neighbouring Europe, and he must know what he’s talking about. This is not the case with his luxury Muscovite restaurant, which offers molecular cuisine for customers with informed tastes, worlds apart from those “new rich”, as Kromm puts it, practically uneducated and with rather pompous tastes. The dishes crafted by this sensitive, art-loving man are noteworthy for their spectacular aesthetic, among other things.
6. Monsieur Croissant (Baumanskaya, 42)
You need to move away from the centre and approach the area of Baumanskaya, which we strongly urge you to do if you want to discover the real Moscow, which is much warmer and welcoming, far from the inclemencies of a centre as hostile as it is spectacular. And, if you decide to confront the beautiful although complicated Moscow metro system, this small restaurant is a great choice, whether you want to breakfast on one of its buns or pastries or have a simple but well prepared lunch, such as pasta with vegetables or the soup of the day. Nearby is a Hotel Mercure, where we happen to be staying, at a laughable price compared to downtown rates and just two metro stops from Red Square.
7. Tamerlan
This mega-restaurant with its mock luxury comes with a clientele dressed as if they’re were all attending a wedding downing vodkas like they were water. This Asian restaurant is a good option if you’re feeling like some glamour, as the Eurasian cuisine is outstanding, the price, reasonable and the decor, striking and attractive.
8. Chemodan (Gogolevskiy Blvd., 25/1)
It would be unforgivable to leave Moscow without having dined at least once in Chemodan, a delightful, absolutely unclassifiable restaurant that breaks the mould of what one would imagine contemporary Moscow to be like. Chemodan is located in the vicinity of Arbat and has an ambience (with its grand lamps, wallpaper, carpets and paintings hung on the walls) more reminiscent of a bar of intellectuals in the Paris of the twenties than what you would expect in Putin’s Russia. As you open the door and are met by a charming little old man, with the sound of Bésame mucho in the background, you know you’ve come to the right place. There, you give yourself over to cuisine with Russian roots, selecting from a well-worked menu featuring pampered, sensitively crafted dishes from all over the country.
9. Café Pushkin
Only if you have around €300 in your pocket should you venture into Café Pushkin, a legendary locale which is worth mentioning for figuring in all possible world rankings for both the best restaurants and the most beautiful ones. Don, therefore, your best attire and take your place like some Cinderella in this majestic environment lined with fine woods and where even the most secluded corner is lavished with tasteful luxury. Prepare to savour Russian cuisine with French touches – or, might that be the other way around? Despite the charm of the establishment, however, the dishes may not satisfy those diners seeking haute cuisine in its pure state.
10. Beverly Hills Diner
Lastly, a big lark, which we’re eager to not leave unmentioned as it is surely the most telling joke we have seen in Moscow. This is the most American of eateries, where you would expect Olivia Newton-John to make her entry at any time. It stands in downtown Moscow, with neon lights that appear to be proudly blaring out to the world that – yes – they won the Cold War. You bite your tongue and see for yourself, with some resentment, that you’re not quite sure what victory is being celebrated. You realise that, after so much salmon and Russian sauces, what you really fancy is the pleasure of the familiar, being able to finally sink your teeth into a hamburger.
Come and experience it for yourself! Check out our flights here
Text and photos by Laura Conde (Gastronomistas)
more infoFreshwater Revelry Bathing Fever in Zurich
It’s a hot day in Zurich, on the cusp of summer, and many of the locals have emerged with their swimming gear under their arms. Indeed, bourgeois Zurich, set atop the podium of the cities with the best quality of life in the world, does not only display economic prowess, picture postcard beauty and a national pride for the punctuality of its transport. Zurich is, above all, the paradise of “badis”, which is what they affectionately call their open-air public baths dotted across the whole city on the shores of the Zürichsee (Lake Zurich) and the Limmat and Sihl rivers, like some sweetwater alter ego which rises year after year when the temperatures hits the highs.
Be Water my Friend!
You only need about five minutes to realise that here water is king. They keep it clean, flaunt it and pay homage to it. Not only is this the city with the most drinking water sources in the world – about 1,200 of them. The water that is dispensed is also of unbeatable quality and its flavour up there with the top gourmet mineral waters.
With some thirty bathing facilities, plus nearly twenty open-air swimming pools, no other city in Europe can boast such a high concentration of public baths per capita. Open daily from May to September at sunrise, the badis are the focal point of social life. Each facility has developed its own character over time and there are options to suit all audiences and pockets. And, there’s more! At nightfall, a large number of these pools take on a new life, being transformed into badi-bars serving drinks and dinner, as well as hosting film screenings and providing music until well into the wee hours.
Inspired by the modest size of this small-scale metropolis and determined to save a few francs on transport, we decide to hire a bike at Züri rollt, the free municipal service which, by depositing 20 francs, enables you to enjoy the city on wheels. In the spirit of “do as the locals do”, we set out on our tour.
The Romans Bathed Here!
Zurich’s bathing tradition is no recent fad. Its history goes back 2,000 years, when the Romans unveiled the first public baths in ancient Turicum, Zurich’s Latin name. The ruins of Thermengasse, in the heart of the old town, can still be visited, and detailed information on this ancestral tradition is provided there.
But, it was not until the early-19th century that the bathing scene really took off and the city became swamped with badis. What to begin with emerged as an alternative to providing homes with running water soon spread like wildfire, and by 1900 there were already 20 public baths in existence, although with gender separation, of course!
With such precedents, no wonder that open-air bathing has become ingrained in Zurich’s DNA. The locals take visits to their badis very seriously, while visitors soon find their niche amid such alluring offerings.
Women and Men and Vice Versa
We went on a stroll through the calm waters of the historic centre. The first stop on our route was the veteran Frauenbadi. Built in 1837 on the banks of the river Limmat and reserved exclusively for women ever since its inception, there is no better place to sunbathe if you want the finest views of the Grossmünster, Zurich’s striking cathedral. Rebuilt in Art Nouveau style, the baths preserve all the character of the Belle Époque, with a large timber cloister surrounding the pool, sunbathing platforms and accesses to the crystal-clear waters of the river. By night, this classic badi turns into an elegant Barfussbar, featuring live music, literary nights and dancing, where men and women sip their cocktails, on condition they go barefoot.
And, just as opposite poles attract each other, a few minutes away stands the Flussbad Schanzengraben, the latter’s male counterpart, an oasis of tranquility for men only. This charming badi is the oldest bathing facility in the city as it has been operating since 1864. Surrounded by the remains of an old city wall, the current here is slow and swimming is risk-free. Outside of swimming hours, the premises turn into the Rimini Bar, a highly popular restaurant with an intimate atmosphere in summer, when men and women relax in the chill-out area while dinner is being barbecued. The venue, in discrete, glamorous, 100% Swiss style, is the perfect spot for snacking and having something to drink al fresco, dancing to the rhythm of guest DJs and shopping in their weekly market, featuring local designs and vintage apparel.
Alps, Sand and Sport at the Zürichsee
After a dip in the heart of Zurich, we head for the lake, where you can swim in the company of ducks and swans. The history of the Zürichsee is closely linked to that of the city. The jetties and walkways fringing the shores, inaugurated in 1887, marked Zurich’s entry into the modern era – the city thereby reclaimed land from the lake, decongesting the crowded medieval city.
On the right bank, having passed by the Opera and the emblematic Bellevueplatz, stands the coolest badi of all, the Seebad Utoquai. A bathe in its waters is like travelling back to the 19th century. Having first opened in 1890, this historic badi is a veritable institution in Zurich. Stretches of the original timber building are still intact and the set of pools there makes up one of the trendiest corners in town. There are areas for men, women and mixed, direct accesses to the lake, floating platforms and terraces for sunbathing, all patronised by seemly guests sipping on drinks, chatting congenially or heading to the massage area. If you’re feeling peckish, the restaurant serves dishes and tapas with Mediterranean aromas. But, if what you’re seeking is peace and quiet, you won’t find it here. The surrounding area throngs with boats, yachts and stand up paddles until well into the night. But, it is definitely the place to be for sybarites eager to catch the last shafts of sunlight before the sun sets into the lake.
Cut to a different setting as we switch to the opposite, left bank. We bathe while gazing at the Alps in the Seebad Enge! Open all year around, in summer guests can enjoy mixed pools and floating platforms on the lake, while the sauna is set aside for the colder months. Truth be told, not much swimming gets done here. What with beauty therapy and yoga sessions, relaxation techniques and stand up paddle classes, this badi is first and foremost a social precinct for folks in their thirties where they can show off their latest models of swimwear as well as stare and be stared back at. At the weekend it fills up with youngsters who come for brunch. The badi does not close at night – the bar and barbecue grind into motion, while open-air concerts, poetry slams and cocktails take over.
A beach of fine sand with a Mediterranean air? You have come to Strandbad Mythenquai, the ideal spot for families with children, as it boasts shallow waters and a deep-green lawn where you can lay down your towel, have a picnic or read. The bravest among you can leap off the formidable diving boards, with 1, 3 and 5-metre-high platforms, into the outrageously crystal-clear waters in this urban lake.
Downstream in Zürich West
Welcome to the freestyle paradise! We have arrived in Zurich West, the hyper-creative district and bastion of the young, cool set. Here, anything goes although, if you don’t fancy sticking out like a sore thumb, jump in and let the current carry you downstream.
The badi par excellence is the Flussbad Oberer Letten, an urban venue plastered with graffiti on the banks of the Limmat where there are no written rules – follow the locals and judge for yourself. Whether you choose to sunbathe on the platforms, have a picnic or a refreshing spritz at the Primitivo at Happy Hour – coinciding with afterwork at around 5 p.m.– make sure you are sporting a very fit body and dressed in line with the latest trend. You have come to the heart of hipsterland! If you’re feeling hot, leave your “rags” right where you are and leap into the water – you have four hundred metres of free swimming ahead of you. By night it is the turn of the highly popular Panama Bar to come alive. They serve food and DJ dance music at what is one of the best rave-ups in town.
If you still have an ounce of energy left, continue downstream with your sights set on the Silo, a concrete behemoth unveiled in 2016 for grain storage which is now the second tallest tower in the city. Half way along you will come to the Flussbad Unterer Letten. Here, the current is faster, as attested by the hordes of youngsters who descend on the spot with their airbeds and inflatable dinghies ready to sail downstream. Bathers who jump in are abandoned to their fate, being willy-nilly dragged along by the current. Some struggle in vain against the current in an attempt to swim upstream, but few achieve this. Those who remain on the riverside sit around chatting, drinking wine, unwrapping their picnic baskets or relaxing on the lawn. Oh, yes – in summer, the badi hosts two weeks of open-air independent cinema.
This is Zurich’s “dolce vita”, which reaches its peak during the bathing season – a microcosm which first-time sightseers are amazed at. If you’re thinking of visiting Switzerland’s biggest city in summer, book your Vueling here.
Text by Núria Gurina i Puig
Photos by Zürich Tourism/Caroline Minjolle; Tourism/Elisabeth Real; Zürich Tourism/Martin Rütschi; Roland Fischer; Núria Gurina
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