Seville’s Unique Flavour
By Belén Parra from gastronomistas
Seville’s unique character will hit you as soon as you arrive. Or when you hear that melody; the one you just know will stay with you on your journey, like a memory. Seville is replete with singular colours, aromas and flavours. It is exalting and magical, and pure art. It is all consuming and prevailing. From pre-dinner drinks then onto tapas and the marcha that lasts well into the night. From the small plates of russian salad and patatas bravas in between glasses of rebujito (sherry and soda), cold beer and red wine. And lets not forget the music and dance of flamenco and the sheer joy of the locals who, in a short time, will have you clapping your hands right along with them. Seville makes you forget yourself and gives meaning to life, because in the capital of Andalucía enjoyment is obligatory. Lose yourself in its small streets, landmark monuments, hidden corners and best tables. Whether you are here for a few days or a long stay, experience Seville with a passion.
WHERE TO EAT:
Tradevo. This gastro-tavern is a city institution – as much for locals who appreciate great cuisine as the city’s chefs who come to chew over their trade. The menu fuses tradition and modernity in reasonably priced ‘small plates’ of generous servings and beautiful presentation. Although Travedo is situated out of the tourist zone, it can be hard to get a table (or even a stool at the bar). The salmorejo (a thicker, creamier gazpacho) is to die for, as are daily specials and rice dishes.
Plaza Pintor Amalio García del Moral, 2.
La Pepona Tapas. Situated in the city centre, La Pepona Tapas excels in using local produce in dishes that hail from other parts of the country. It is one of the few places that understand the importance of a good aperitif. Its bodega boasts a fantastic wine selection (especially varieties from Jerez) that can be enjoyed by the glass or half glass – making it a good place to taste local vinos.
Javier Lasso de la Vega, 1.
La Fábrica. La Fábrica belongs to the same groups as Besana Tapas – the ‘tapas temple’ situated in Utrea, a few kilometres from Seville. Located in the buzzing neighbourhood of Alameda, epicentre of the city’s nightlife, it offers non-stop gourmet sandwiches, from breakfast to supper.
Correduría, 1.
Ena. Ena is a new ‘gastro space’ inside the imposing Hotel Alfonso XIII. Having fallen in love with Seville, Carles Abellán from Catalonia has taken on the role of executive chef. For the menu, he has reinterpreted some classic Andalucian dishes and incorporated some of his own famous tapas creations, such as spicy patatas bravas and toasted ham and cheese sandwiches infused with truffle oil. On top of offering an unbeatable setting, Ena has some of the best bartenders in the country. (A cocktail, either pre or post dinner, is imperative). Leave room for the ‘solid’ sangria or another of Abellán’s amusing desserts. Hotel Alfonso XIII. San Fernando, 2.
La Mojigata. A simple, unassuming place where food takes prime place. The tapas changes daily according to produce available in the market, yet always surprises with artful combinations and presentation. The wine list has been carefully edited by the president of the Sommeliers Association of Andalucía.
Moratín, 15.
WHERE TO HAVE A DRINK:
Eme. With views of the Cathedral and the Giralda, the terrace of this hotel is the place to see and be seen. Smart casual dress and atmosphere.
Alemanes, 27.
Inglaterra. Another hotel that stands out on the Plaza Nueva. Go to the top floor to enjoy wide views over a long drink. The chilled out Inglaterra is the perfect place toescape the heat and the city rush.
Plaza Nueva, 7.
Las Casas del Rey de Baeza. Stroll through the historic city centre to this hotel, run by the Hospes Group, on the Plaza de la Redención. Converted from a series of period mansions, it has retained a rustic air and affords a calm ambiance that invites lingering. The patio is the best place to order a glass of wine accompanied by some delicious croquettes prepared by the Azahar restaurant. Or head up to the roof with its swimming pool and cocktail bar.
Plaza Jesús de la Redención, 2.
Bar Americano. We like its cocktail list, or more precisely, its selection of Cócteles de Cine that have been inspired by films shot in Seville. Bar Americano is a distinguished spot. Sophisticated and serene, it was instilled inside the Alfonso XIII during its most recent (and ambitious) renovation. It is perfect for a relaxed drink over conversation.
Hotel Alfonso XIII. San Fernando, 2.
WHERE TO SLEEP:
BarcelóRenacimiento.
Avda. Álvaro Alonso Barba, S/N.
Modern, functional and with all the services you could ever need; the Barceló Renacimientois a five star worth its salt for those who want everything at their fingertips. Situated a few steps from the Isla Mágica fun park, the Guadalquivir River and y La Alameda, its impressive installations include an open air swimming pool. Made to order breakfasts, free wifi, spacious rooms, various leisure and business areas, gardens and singular architecture present an enticing package.
WHERE TO HAVE A FOODIE TREAT:
A crema sevillana ice cream from the artisan ice-cream makers La Fiorentina.
Zaragoza, 16.
A brioche, butter or anchovy bread from Pan y Più, a traditional bakery with French and Italian influences
Cabeza del Rey Don Pedro.
Rosquillas, pain au chocolat, or cream cake (pastel de nata) at La Dulcería de Manu Jara.
Pureza, 5.
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A Walk Through Tintins Brussels
We know that Tintin travelled to America, the Soviet Union, China and South America… he even got to step onto the moon! But, where did the endearing reporter created by Hergé actually live? While the cartoonist never revealed it explicitly, there is no doubt that Brussels, where Hergé lived all his life, is the backdrop in the cartoon strips whenever the amusing reporter and his faithful dog, Snowy, are captured at home. We ventured into Tintin’s haunts and discovered the palaces, museums, hotels, theatres and parks in Brussels which Hergé converted into comic artefacts.
On their return from their first adventures in Tintin in the Land of the Soviets, Tintin and Snowy are welcomed as heroes by a crowd in the Gare du Nord, an exact copy of the former Brussels Gare du Midi. Now featured in the railway station is a mural inspired by a cartoon of Tintin in America to mark the centenary of the birth of Georges Remi, “Hergé”.
In the second of his 24 adventures, the iconic reporter and his faithful friend travel to the Congo, an album which Hergé was likely inspired to pen after various visits to the Royal Museum for Central Africa. Among many other nods, the leopard man that threatens Tintin in the comic is an imitation of the statue sculpted by Paul Wissaert on display in that museum.
The address, 26 Labrador Road, is well known to Tintinophiles. First mentioned in The Broken Ear, don’t waste your time looking it up in a Brussels street finder. Instead, head for 26 de la rue Terre-Neuve, where you will come across an uncannily similar building to the one where the young reporter’s flat was located!
Built in the late-19th century on the south side of the Royal Park, the Royal Palace stands out as one of the most emblematic landmarks in Brussels. This majestic building was where Hergé drew inspiration for the Royal Palace of Syldavian King Muskar XII in King Ottokar's Sceptre.
Dating from 1873, the Flea Market or Marché aux Puces, located in the Place du Jeu de Balle, is the Brussels mecca of collectors, antiquarians, treasure hunters and bric-a-brac seekers. It was at this flea market that Tintin discovered the model ship at the opening of The Secret of the Unicorn.
However, it was most likely in The Seven Crystal Balls that Hergé captured most of Brussels’ architectural landmarks. For example, in this thirteenth instalment of The Adventures of Tintin, one of the city’s most emblematic hotels appears – the Metropole. Also easily recognised in this comic album is La Monnaie theatre, renamed the Music-Hall Palace. And, the mansion where Professor Hercules Tarragon lives is the spitting image of the opulent villa on Avenue Delleur 6.
Also in The Seven Crystal Balls, we come across the character, Rascar Capac, a mummy inspired by a relic on display in the Cinquantenaire Museum. Hergé was a regular at this gallery, where he went in search of ideas. It was also where he discovered the fetish created by the Arumbaya, the focus of the storyline in The Broken Ear.
Another prime magnet for Tintinophiles is the southern Brussels district of Uccle, one of the nineteen districts making up the Belgian capital. In Uccle we find the Brussels Planetarium, an observatory which Hergé portrayed in The Shooting Star. Interestingly, the Centre Culturel d'Uccle has a statue of Tintin on display, while in the district cemetery, a short distance away from where he lived until his death, is the artist’s grave. A plaque at 33 Rue Philippe Baucq, in the more central district of Etterbeek, reminds visitors that this was the birthplace of Georges Remi “Hergé”. (The house is not open to the public.)
At Louvain-la-Neuve, less than half an hour from the centre of Brussels, stands the Musée Hergé. Designed by the French architect, Christian de Portzamparc, the Hergé Museum is three storeys high and has 8 exhibition halls, featuring 80 original prints, 800 photographs and countless documents and miscellanea related to the life and work of the creator of Tintin and Snowy.
Highly recommendable for Tintin lovers in particular, and enthusiasts of the ninth art in general, is a visit to the Brussels Comic Strip Centre (Rue des Sables 20) which features thousands of original works relating to some of the most outstanding Belgian creations in the comic world, notably The Smurfs, Lucky Luke, Spirou and Tintin, among others.
The huge dragon from The Blue Lotus painted on the ground at the entrance to rue de la Colline 13 announces your arrival at the Tintin Boutique. This is the ideal store for stocking up on all types of objects and souvenirs associated with the illustrious reporter and his endearing troupe of cartoon companions.
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Text by Oriol Rodríguez for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Oscar W. Rasson, Julien, Andrea Carrozzo, CTJ71081, Dustin Hackert, Laurence Livermore, Su-Lin, Stephane Mignon
more infoThe Five Best Spots in Malasaña
Although recent years have seen the emergence of carefully crafted designer nightspots, the district still features a number of premium locales with a magnetic pull that makes them a meeting point de rigueur by night. The fact is that Malasaña, in the very heart of the capital, has always thronged with a broad array of leisure spaces. It peaked during the golden years of La Movida, when nightspots that triggered an epoch-making eighties’ scene started springing up along the calle Manuela Malasaña.
Here is a selection of five of the best places for having a drink in the old Maravillas quarter:
Madklyn
Hard by the Plaza 2 de Mayo square we find this musical haven with an aftertaste of times gone by. The Madklyn is not a particularly large space, so at night it can fill to bursting. Prominent is its glittering, silvery ceiling, which gives a nod to the metal of Brooklyn Bridge. The decor is retro, reminiscent of the golden age of bars with pinball machines. Saturdays see a special session at aperitif time. Gee! Don’t fail to try their bean tapas, the speciality of the house. And, don’t miss out on their “blackout” sessions delivered by the resident DJ, Mighty Caesar!
Picnic Bar
Picnic bar has been a hit for some time and this means that, every time you go there, it is like having to pick your way through a mass of dense marsh foliage. This is a meeting point for Madrid actors, comedians, musicians and hipsters. The service is excellent and their cocktails are among the best in town. It is distributed on two storeys – street level and basement – both of which have warm lighting and vintage decor, with red dominant. A classic feature is their fabulous armchairs, ideal for enjoying a comfortable chat.
1862 Dry Bar
This locale has just won the FIBAR award as Best Bar of 2014, and it is certainly one of the most exquisite spaces in the district. They specialise in classic cocktails, but also strike out into more contemporary offerings. Set on two floors, the main one, at street level, has very high ceilings and a well-balanced decor with touches of Art Deco, with the emphasis on the wine rack, of course. On the lower floor they have created a cosier atmosphere, with comfortable burgundy-coloured couches and a warmer lighting. It resembles a small boîte, with its own bar counter. One striking note is the caged and highly visible wine cellar, with an air resembling that of an old sailing vessel.
Juanita Banana
At number 3 Calle Estrella lies another of the must-see places in Malasaña. This is Juanita Banana, which belongs to the same group as Fabuloso, Coconot and Exótica. In common with these, its decor harks back to the nascent days of late-fifties rock, B movies and some of the clichés from early pop culture. The nice thing about this bar is that you can order apincho while you’re sipping at a cocktail. Or, if you prefer, you can taste a shake. They are really delicious!
Costello Club
Costello Club is unquestionably one of the most emblematic saloons in Malasaña. Reliable sources claim that this is the unofficial bar and dance-hall of the music industry – if you play in a band, you have to perform here if you want to get anywhere. Its siting, right near the Gran Vía metro stop, is also very handy. The lower floor, which houses the Costello Dance Floor, usually hosts good concerts and performances. Celebrities such as Vetusta Morla, Russian Red, Last Shadow Puppets, DePedro, Tequila, Amaral, Nada Surf, Quique González and many others have graced its premises. The upper floor consists of the Costello Gold Lounge and the private Chill Garden, where the privileged can listen to jazz, pop, bunge, downtempo and bossa nova.
Getting Your Strength Back
After many a drink, you are advised to stop off on your itinerary to replenish your energy. Here are two terrific recommendations. During the day, drop in on Naif, at number 16 Calle San Joaquín. This lively spot has an ambience that grows as the day marches on, adapting to the rhythm of the neighbourhood. Here there is no dearth of coffee, cakes and pastries for afternoon tea, and drinks and cocktails for the evening. The service is exquisite. Their salads and hamburgers are highly recommended and wonderfully priced. With the onset of spring, it is worth choosing a table outside in the Plaza de San Ildefonso. The atmosphere at weekends is spectacular and lasts practically until closing time, at 2.30 a.m. For dinner, make sure you head for Home Burger Bar, one of the city’s hamburger cathedrals. In effect, it was cited among the 50 best hamburger bars in the world in December last year.
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Text & images by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
more infoBelgrade In Three Itineraries
In truth, Belgrade has not been fairly treated by history, as the peoples, cultures and religions that passed through the city left more of a trail of destruction than a positive, lasting historical footprint. Surprisingly, however, Belgraders have chosen to preserve the vestiges of those civilisations that occupied and also ravaged the city.
Former Singidunum
A Celtic tribe first settled Singidun (meaning “round fort”) in the 3rd century BC, on the site of the extant Kalemegdan Fortress. Subsequently, the Roman army arrived and changed the name to Singidunum, which endured until the city became Beograd in the year 878.
Remains of the fort built by the Celtic tribes, as well as some dating from the Roman period, can still be seen in Kalemegdan Park, where the original garrison was sited. Sections of an aqueduct, cisterns and some stretches of the wall stand side by side with an unusual mixture of buildings from different periods, such as those from the Ottoman and the Austro-Hungarian periods, which we will be looking at in a moment.
No fewer than 18 Roman emperors were born in Serbia; no wonder, then, that the Roman legacy still lingers in parts of the country. Notable examples are Viminacium – present-day Kostolac – or Felix Romuliana, situated near the archaeological site of Gamzigrad, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2007.
In Belgrade, the two museums you cannot fail to visit if you want to research the country’s Roman heritage are the Belgrade City Museum and the National Museum of Serbia.
Ottoman Belgrade
Traces of the Ottoman period can be seen in the 15th-century stone paving of Skadarlija, Belgrade’s best known pedestrian precinct in the Bohemian Quarter. Here, things get into full swing at nightfall when the numerous restaurants, taverns and cafés are frequented by Serbians and foreigners alike, eager to taste the cuisine hot off the fire. Notable dishes include sarma (vine leaves stuffed with meat and vegetables), kebab (meat on the skewer) and baklava (the famous confectionery of honey-rolled nuts), liable to transport diners back to Belgrade’s Ottoman past.
Of the 273 mosques that once existed in the city, only the Bajrakli Džamija mosque, dating from 1575, is still standing. Having survived the passage of time, partial destruction and other attacks, it was rebuilt and is now open to Belgrade’s Muslim community.
Several Ottoman vestiges can also be seen in the aforementioned fort in Kalemegdan Park, including the Sahat Tower, with its striking clock, and the Tomb of Silahdar Damat Ali Pasha, housing the remains of the Grand Vizier of the Ottoman Empire and “Conqueror of Morea” (the Byzantine name for the Peloponnese), who ruled from 1713 to 1716.
Belgrade also features a very interesting museum for those wishing to find out more about the city’s Ottoman legacy. This is the Galeriji Fresaka (Gallery of Frescoes), with its exhibition of over 1,300 frescoes, which are actually copies of icons found on Serbian monuments dating from the 11th to the 15th century, some of which are Byzantine in style. Some of the icons have been destroyed in their original location, while others have fallen into disrepair.
Austro-Hungarian Belgrade
Perhaps the entire heritage of Belgrade’s Austro-Hungarian past, which lasted from 1867 to 1919, can be summed up in one word – Zemun. This is the name of an unusual district which did not become part of Serbia until the outbreak of the First World War and which breathes an atmosphere unlike that of any other district in the city.
But the whole ensemble of eclectic art dating from the period 1860 to the late 1920s, in addition to neo-Renaissance historicist architecture, abounds along the pedestrian precinct of Kneza Mihaila, Belgrade’s major thoroughfare and shopping area. Stretching for one kilometre, it features striking mansions from the late 1870s, as well as bookshops, fashion stores, cafés and souvenir stalls where you can soak up the vibrant everyday activity of Belgrade.
Another lively spot in the city, and also a meeting point for Belgraders and foreigners, is Trg Republike (Republic Square), with its emblematic “Horse”. Executed in 1882, this equestrian statue of Mihajlo Obrenović III (Prince Michael) commemorates his expulsion of the Turks. Behind it stands the aforementioned National Museum of Serbia, due to open to the public again in April 2016 as it is currently closed for renovation.
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Text and photographs by Ana Isabel Escriche (Planeta Dunia)
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