The Modernist Face of Valencia
Valencia is not all Calatrava and paella, just as Barcelona does not account for all of Spain’s Modernist buildings – well, someone had to say it! Clichés aside, if there is anything the first-time visitor to Valencia is likely to be amazed at it is the sheer quantity and quality of its Modernist heritage. It hits you as you wander down its streets, particularly in the historic centre and the Ensanche.
Valencia saw marked urban development in the late-19th century, the upshot of its economic boom at the time. The city grew beyond its old walled precinct, giving rise to an overspill known as the Ensanche. The expansion coincided with one of the burgeoning art movements of the moment, one that would become all the rage among Europe’s middle classes. The movement became known as Modernism, elsewhere dubbed Art Nouveau, Modern Style, Jugendstil, Liberty or Floreale, depending on the country. Not to be outdone, the Valencian middle classes became enthralled by this new style, which a marked a break with the prevailing academic tradition. Its artificers were inspired by nature and experimented with new applications of iron and glass in architecture.
Valencian Modernism is characterised by the use of glazed ceramics on facades and in interiors, which usually feature motifs associated with the region, notably oranges and orange blossom. Among the standout buildings, which you should make a point of visiting on your itinerary of Valencia’s Modernist heritage, are the following:
- Mercat Central. Built in 1914 and designed by Francesc Guàrdia i Vial and Alexandre Soler, both of whom trained at the Barcelona School of Architecture, this is one of the city’s major tourist attractions and it’s not for nothing. The interior metallic structure is painted white, making the colours of wares sold in the stalls stand out all the more. Further, visitors are met by the striking, spectacular central dome, which floods the interior with light. Both the stunning architecture and the congenial atmosphere in the market make this a must-visit for all sightseers in the city.
- Mercado de Colón. Inaugurated in 1916 and designed by Francisco Mora Berenguer, it was commissioned to provide services for the Ensanche district. Prominent is the ornamented brick facade, decorated with a host of ceramic figures – it couldn’t be otherwise! Restored in 2003, the interior now houses various shops, cafés and bars.
- Estación del Norte. Passengers arriving in Valencia by train are rewarded with the sight of this marvellous station. Opened in 1917, it boasts some beautiful areas, notably the vestibule, decorated in wood, glazed ceramics and marble.
- Casa Ordeig. Located next to the Mercat Central, it was designed by Francisco de Mora i Berenguer. He drew inspiration from the Lonja de la Seda (Silk Exchange), which accounts for the Neo-Gothic motifs on the facade.
- Edificio Suay. This grand edifice with its white facade is located on the corner of Calle Correos and the Plaza del Ayuntamiento. It was designed by the same architect as the Casa Ordeig.
- Edificio de los Dragones. Located on the corner of Calle Sorni and Calle Jorge Juan, it was designed by José María Manuel Cortina Pérez and built in 1901. Its Neo-Gothic-inspired decoration is striking and features a profusion of mythical animals, particularly dragons – hence its name.
Apart from the aforementioned landmarks, we recommend you take a stroll along Calle de la Paz, where you will come across numerous Modernist buildings, including the Edificio Camaña Laymon, Edificio Sancho, Casa Gray, and Casa Sagnier I and II.
Ready to discover one of Valencia’s most alluring and evocative architectural facets? Book your flight here.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Jocelyn Kinghorn, Marja van Bochove, Carquinyol, Pleuntje, Paul Thompson
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La Confluence Lyons Cutting Edge
Those roving travellers who, on a visit to the capital of the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region, are unsated by delving into its past in the streets of Vieux Lyon, rambling through the bohemian district of La Croix-Rousse – which once hosted the silk workshops that earned the city fame and identity – or visiting the Institut Lumière, where the seventh art took its first tentative steps, and would instead like to discover the Lyon of the future, should make a point of heading for the Lyon Confluence.
At the tip of the peninsula where the Rhône and Saône rivers meet on their passage through Lyon lies the city’s most avant-garde district, the site of state-of-the-art architectural structures designed by a host of national and international architectural studios.
In its beginnings, the Confluence was an industrial precinct with numerous warehouses which gradually fell derelict. Over the last few years, this neighbourhood has been redeveloped, becoming what is now the apple of Lyon’s eye. This has been achieved by implementing a large-scale urban renewal project which has become a new focus of interest for both the Lyonese and tourists alike. Guided by the precepts of sustainability and creativity, the project features some highly interesting constructions and the district has taken on a markedly new lease of life, attracting businesses, restaurants and the odd hotel, and the project still has a long way to go.
Le Cube Orange is one of the icons of the district and one of the first surprises to hit newcomers to the area. The work of French architects Jakob + Macfarlane Architects, this huge building has a giant, cone-shaped hole gouged out of it, its function being both aesthetic and to provide light and ventilation. Another landmark and sequel to the Cube Orange, as it is designed by the same architects, is the Euronews HQ, although here one’s attention is struck by its loud green colour and this time the building’s rectangular facade is pierced by two holes. Another construction which made an impression on us during our stroll through La Confluence was Dark Point, the work of French architect Odile Decq, where the structure seemingly reaches out to embrace the river.
La Sucriére acts as a counterpoint to the aforementioned shot of cutting-edge architecture. Once a factory warehouse for storing sugar, it has now been refurbished and converted into an exhibition space for mainly art and creative works in general.
The itinerary culminates in the Musée des Confluences, unveiled in December 2014 and housed in a building characterised by the deconstructivist architectural style of the Austrian Coop Himmelb(l)au. Shaped to resemble a cloud, the museum is dedicated to natural history and societies. The permanent collection comes from the Museum of Lyon and features exhibits ranging from ethnographic artefacts to natural science objects.
And, if all that hasn’t quite quenched your sightseeing thirst, you can always go on a heady shopping spree in the district’s emblematic shopping complex – the largest in Lyon – namely the Pôle de Commerces et Loisirs Confluence which, apart from countless stores, is also the site of numerous restaurants, cinemas, gyms, etc.
Now that you know about Lyon’s most avant-garde neighbourhood, book your Vueling here and discover it for yourself.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Jean-Pierre Dalbéra, Anthony V.
more infoSoaking up Spring in Holland
Like clogs, windmills and bicycles, the tulip as a symbol is intimately linked to one’s image of Holland. This bulb, which originated in Anatolia and the Middle East, reached Europe in the 16th century and was met with marked admiration, particularly in the Low Countries. There, just one century later, it sparked a phenomenon that came to be known as “tulip mania”. As a result, the flower became a veritable cult object, fetching exorbitant prices and eventually being listed on the stock exchange. This ended up triggering the first recorded economic bubble in history, on account of the speculation that emerged around this product.
Nowadays, tulips inundate the Dutch countryside each spring, turning it into a genuine explosion of colour. It is well worth a getaway to the Netherlands just to contemplate it. For those eager to savour this priceless flower to the full, we have put together a selection of places you can’t fail to include on your must-see list.
Keukenhof, a Park With Over 7 Million Flower Bulbs
Keukenhof is located in Lisse, between Amsterdam and The Hague, in the heart of what is known as the “Bulb Region”. Here you will encounter an amazing 7 million plus flower bulbs, the sight of which is overpowering. This is a must-visit site for flower lovers and nature devotees in general. But, Keukenhof is not celebrated just for its huge number of flowers, but also for its landscape design, featuring lakes, fountains, walkways and windmills, making up a surprisingly heady ensemble. The only drawback is that this marvellous garden is only open to the public at the time of the tulip blossom; that is, from mid-March to the end of May and, owing to the large crowds that flock here, it is advisable to book well in advance.
En Route Through Bollenstreek, The Bulb Region
The area known as the Bulb Region (Bollenstreek, in Dutch) is another destination you should make a point of visiting in spring. Situated 30 kilometres south-west of Amsterdam, between Haarlem and Leiden, the area is characterised by the presence of clayey earth which, in conjunction with the prevailing maritime climate, makes for perfect tulip-growing conditions, in addition to other bulbs, notably crocuses, daffodils and hyacinths. The time of year to come here is in April, when the tulips reach their maximum splendour. Touring this land by car or bicycle is a veritable delight on the eyes, as you come across field after field of myriad tulips in all shapes and colours – an astonishing sight for any visitor to behold. Organised tours from Amsterdam ply a fairly comprehensive circuit through the towns in Bollenstreek.
Tulip Museum
If you are eager to know the history and all the ins and outs of this popular, highly prized bulb, make a point of visiting Amsterdam’s Tulip Museum before you leave Holland. Located in the Jordaan district, hard by the Anne Frank house museum, it is an essential resource for learning the thrilling history of this priceless flower.
Book your Vueling to Amsterdam and gear up to savour spring in Holland.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Photos by Robert Lyle Bolton
more infoThe Palio di Siena
Situated some 75 kilometres south of Florence, Siena is a must-visit spot on any route through Tuscany. The architectural beauty of its historic centre, designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1995, is one of its major draws. A former marketplace, the Piazza del Campo –popularly known as Il Campo – is the undisputed centrepiece of the city’s social life and the ideal point of departure for sightseeing in Siena.
The square was paved in 1327 and divided into nine sections, one for each of the Noveschi – the nine oligarchs that ruled the city. It still transports the visitor to medieval times, due in part to the buildings around its perimeter, notably the Palazzo Pubblico and Torre del Mangia. The former, also known as the Palazzo Comunale, was built in the early 14th century. Located on the south side of the square, it houses the Museo Civico. The campanile on this palace is called the Torre del Mangia. A veritable icon of the city, its height of 102 metres affords the best panoramic views of Siena. At the top of the square is the Fonte Gaia, built to facilitate the channelling of water to the city centre. The fountain now on the site is a replica of the original, sculpted by Jacopo della Quercia, while the original is on view in the museum at Santa Maria della Scala.
A Medieval Tradition Which Never Ages
This square is actually the centre stage of one of the defining moments in the life of this beautiful Tuscan city – the celebration of the Palio di Siena. Every year the festivity attracts both locals and hordes of tourists, eager to relive a tradition which never seems to have aged. The focal point of this famous race is the Piazza del Campo. Once it is adorned with all the celebratory trappings, including flags and people dressed in period costumes, it is well nigh impossible for visitors to avoid feeling swept back to another time in history.
The key dates for the Palio, the origins of which go back to the 16th century, are2 July,with the running of the Palio di Provenzano (in honour of the Madonna of Provenzano), and16 August,when it is the turn of the Palio dell’Assunta (in honour of the Assumption of Mary). These are the two dates you need to jot down in your diary if you want to experience the most authentic moments in the life of Siena, or as dates to avoid, if you don’t fancy being swamped by crowds. On those two days, the Piazza del Campo is transformed into a thrilling, fast-paced horse race which actually only lasts for a mere two minutes. The participants consist of representatives of the sixteen contrade (parish districts), who vie for the honour of seizing the palio, a silk standard. By way of a warm-up in the days preceding the race, all sorts of competitions are held in a festive mood around the city, enhanced by the sight of colourful period costumes.
Visiting the City
Apart from the highly popular Piazza del Campo, Siena also has other interesting sights worth seeing on your visit to the city. One such landmark is the Duomo (Siena Cathedral), in Italian Gothic style, which houses works by Pisano, Donatello, Michelangelo and Bernini. One unusual feature is to be found in the floor, which has 56 panels depicting Biblical scenes, some of which can only be viewed in September and October as they are covered for conservation purposes. Also in the Piazza del Duomo is the Museo dell’Opera, with sculptures that were previously housed in the Cathedral, and the Santa Maria della Scala complex, a former hospital which now houses three museums – the National Archaeological Museum, the Siena Contemporary Art Centre and a Children's Art Museum.
Book your Vueling to Florence and head for Siena to coincide with the city’s festivities.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Image by Janus Kinase
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