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Dreams of Lava & Ice in the Icelandic Highlands

Iceland is prolific in place-names which are difficult to pronounce, recall and, of course, spell. Landmannalaugar is one of these but, once you have travelled to this oasis nestling in multi-coloured mountains, where spouting thermal springs, sulphurous vapours and fumaroles melt the ice, this musical, fifteen-letter name becomes a simple word you will never forget. On the contrary – each time you utter it, hear it or read it, you will be transported to that natural paradise which has irremediably become part of your very existence.

Landscapes From Another Planet

Here, in this remote spot, which can only be reached in a 4x4 vehicle – in summer, several 4x4 buses ply the route daily from Hella – begins one of the most popular and spectacular hiking trails in the country and, indeed, on the planet.

Officially, it is known as Laugavegur, which translates roughly to “thermal waters route”. It is usually negotiated from north to south for a distance of 56 km as far as Þórsmörk. The hike then continues another 26 km from there to Skógar along a trail known as Fimmvörðuháls. Along this route, which takes from 4 to 6 days, endless scenic surprises await the traveller, from rhyolite mountains with indescribable colours to fields of fumaroles, glaciers and waterfalls, and deserts of lava and active volcanoes.

Accessible Stages

Laugavegur is the most popular stretch of the trail and is divided into four accessible stages of from 12 to 15 km, with stopovers at Hrafntinnusker, Álftavatn, Emstrur and Þórsmörk. Experienced walkers can complete two stages in one go as there are few slopes and the daylight hours are particularly long in the northern summer. Þórsmörk has a station for 4x4 buses so you can take one back to Hella.

Continuing along the Fimmvörðuháls trail from the Þórsmörk valley, the slope becomes steeper and some areas are more exposed and windswept. This stretch can be divided into two spectacular stages with a stopover at the Fimmvörðuháls shelter. This stage is probably one of the most amazing ones in trekking. It takes you past the Mýrdallsjokull and Eyjafjallajokull glaciers, and across a lava field that emerged during the famous 2010 eruption – which grounded so many flights – culminating in a long descent on which you can admire a total of 24 spectacular waterfalls, with the legendary Skógafoss as the final flourish.

Practical Guide

Dates: Open from June to September.

Difficulty: In good weather, the route is easy as far as Þórsmörk, and moderate up to Skógar.

Weather: Weather conditions in the Icelandic Highlands can change drastically in a few hours, even in summer. You should keep checking the weather report at shelters and abide by warnings issued by rangers and the shelter managers.

Navigation: The route is signposted in early summer with yellow stakes placed every few metres. In the event of being overtaken by fog or bad weather, it is useful to have GPS with route tracking. However, bear in mind that the route can vary slightly from year to year, particularly at river crossings.

Gear: Essential to have mountain footwear and warm clothing.

Food: There are no restaurants or grocery stores anywhere along the trail, and they do not serve food in the emergency shelters. However, you can pay for camping or an overnight with a credit card. Thus, you have to be self-sufficient and stock up with all the food you are going to need during the hike (reckon on a minimum of 1 kg per person per day).

A Roof Over Your Head: You need to book in advance to sleep at the shelters along the route. For certain summer dates, this requires booking several months ahead and the trekking agencies usually hog most of the available places.

Camping: There are camping areas around the shelters and they are always pay sites. You don’t need to book ahead, however. Some have showers and rubbish collection. Others only have drinking water and toilets. It is advisable to take a light tent that can withstand strong winds.

Rivers: Avoid crossing rivers at their narrowest point, as that is where they are deepest. You should wear tightly-fitting waterproof sandals to prevent them being ripped off by the current.

Guided Treks: If you prefer to travel light – without having to carry food or camping equipment – want to ensure a reservation in the shelters along the way and enjoy the company of a guide, the specialised agency Tierras Polares covers the whole route in July and August in the course of an 8-day trip, of which six days are spent trekking. Prices from €1,595.

Day Tour All Year Around: You can also visit Landmannalaugar on a Super Jeep Tour. The super jeep is a 4x4 vehicle with oversize tyres which can take you into the Highlands any time of the year, and pick-up is at your hotel in Reykjavik. Price per person: ISK 35,000 (€250).

Venture into the wonderland of the Icelandic Highlands – book your Vueling to Reykjavik here.

Text and photos by Sergio Fernández Tolosa & Amelia Herrero Becker (Con un par de ruedas)

 

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From Beach To Beach Along the Camí de Cavalls

Why deny it – one of the main reasons for going to Menorca, albeit not the only one, is its magnificent beaches. They come in all sizes and shapes, suited to all tastes. Some have fine white sand and crystal-clear waters; others, reddish sand, surrounded by pine forests, while still others take the form of comparatively inaccessible, secluded coves. Some are for day-tripping with the kids; others, for the more adventurous…

An alternative way of roaming this small piece of the Mediterranean to seek out its beaches is by hiking along the footpath known as the Camí de Cavalls (Horse Trail), a route that encircles the island and enables ramblers to rim Menorca from tip to toe while taking in spectacular, ever-changing views from one stretch of the coastline to the next. Along this 185-kilometre route you will come across all types of beaches, as well as pasturelands and cultivated land, beautiful, refreshing pine forests, cliffs topped by ever-vigilant lighthouses, old watchtowers, urban precincts and, more importantly, all the magic you can imagine.

The origins of the Camí de Cavalls are hazy. What we do know, however, is that some stretches of the trail were already in use in the 14th century and that the need to defend the island from pirates and possible invasions led to the construction of defensive towers at strategic points, and to the building of a road that would encircle and connect the whole island. It fell into disuse in the 20th century and marked deterioration set in. However, following the enactment of the “Camí de Cavalls Law” in the year 2000, the footpath was repaired, restored and signposted, turning it into a veritable landmark for tourists and locals alike, as from there Menorca can be enjoyed in all its splendour and scenic variety.

The best time of year to venture along the trail is in spring or autumn, when the temperatures are milder and the route is less crowded. It is best negotiated on foot, although there are many stretches which can be comfortably covered by bicycle or on horseback, a tribute to the animal that gave the trail its name. Whatever way you undertake the trip, there are a number of basic recommendations you should follow, like wearing a hat to protect against the sun, or taking sufficient food and water with you, as not all beaches and coves you encounter along the way have a beach hut where you can refuel and, when you do find them, they are likely to be closed if you’re hiking off season.

The Camí de Cavalls is divided into 20 stages. Those in the north are more difficult to negotiate as the terrain is more arid, while the southern legs are more suitable for a family outing.

Stage 1: Mahón-Es Grau
Duration: 3 h 30 min, Distance: 10 km, Difficulty: Medium

Stage 2: Es Grau-Favàritx
Duration: 3 h 30 min, Distance: 8.6 km, Difficulty: Medium

Stage 3: Favàritx-Arenal d’en Castell
Duration: 5 h, Distance: 13.6 km, Difficulty: Medium

Stage 4: Arenal d’en Castell-Cala Tirant
Duration: 4 h, Distance: 10.8 km, Difficulty: Low

Stage 5: Cala Tirant-Binimel·là
Duration: 4 h, Distance: 9.6 km, Difficulty: Medium

Stage 6: Binimel·là-Els Alocs
Duration: 5 h, Distance: 8.9 km, Difficulty: High

Stage 7: Els Alocs-Algaiarens
Duration: 4 h 30 min, Distance: 9.7 km, Difficulty: Medium

Stage 8: Algaiarens-Cala Morell
Duration: 2 h 10 min, Distance: 5.4 km, Difficulty: Medium

Stage 9: Cala Morell-Punta Nati
Duration: 3 h, Distance: 7 km, Difficulty: Low

Stage 10: Punta Nati-Ciudadela
Duration: 4 h, Distance: 10.5 km, Difficulty: Low

Stage 11: Ciudadela-Punta de Artrutx
Duration: 5 h, Distance: 13.2 km, Difficulty: Low

Stage 12: Punta de Artrutx-Cala en Turqueta
Duration: 5 h, Distance: 13.3 km, Difficulty: Medium

Stage 13: Cala en Turqueta-Cala Galdana
Duration: 2 h 30 min, Distance: 6.4 km, Difficulty: Low

Stage 14: Cala Galdana-Sant Tomàs
Duration: 4 h 30 min, Distance: 10.8 km, Difficulty: Medium

Stage 15: Sant Tomàs-Son Bou
Duration: 2 h 30 min, Distance: 6.4 km, Difficulty: Low

Stage 16: Son Bou-Cala en Porter
Duration: 3 h 30 min, Distance: 8 km, Difficulty: Medium

Stage 17: Cala en Porter-Binisafúller
Duration: 4 h 30 min, Distance: 11.8 km, Difficulty: Low

Stage 18: Binisafúller-Punta Prima
Duration: 3 h 30 min, Distance: 8.1 km, Difficulty: Low

Stage 19: Punta Prima-Cala de Sant Esteve
Duration: 2 h 40 min, Distance: 7.3 km, Difficulty: Low

Stage 20: Cala de Sant Esteve-Mahón
Duration: 2 h 20 min, Distance: 6 km, Difficulty: Low

After learning about this valuable part of Menorca’s historical and cultural heritage, all that’s left is to book your Vueling and experience it for yourself!

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Franco Vannini

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In Search of the Best Scotch

Scotland offers many reasons for visiting – beautiful scenery, like in the Highlands, and beautiful lakes, like Lochs Lomond, Tummel, Duich and Ness, the latter with monster included. Not to mention such cultural events as the Edinburgh Festival, during which the city is filled with theatre, music and dance, and the chance to discover its writers, notably Sir Walter Scott, Robert Burns, Robert Louis Stevenson and Irvine Welsh. And – you guessed it – the land’s magnificent whisky. Celtic in origin, this distillation is the epitome of Scottish identity traits – bagpipes and kilts notwithstanding. Scotch is also one of the country’s greatest moneyspinners and stands out as a major attraction for visitors to this land. Newcomers will have the opportunity to make their whisky debut in style, while connoisseurs have the unique occasion to become experts while treating themselves to the huge gamut of tastes and aromas.

Known as uisge beatha (water of life) in Gaelic, whisky is made from the distillation of fermented malt, generally barley, although other grains such as wheat, rye and corn can also be used. The distillation is aged in an oak cask for at least three years. Scotch is classified into the following types – single malt, vatted malt (or pure malt), blended and single grain, single malt being the most highly valued.

A good way of coming to grips with everything related to this popular Scottish beverage is by heading for Edinburgh to visit the Scotch Whisky Experience, a centre located in the Old Town, adjacent to Edinburgh Castle, where you can learn all the ins and outs of scotch. Once you have mastered the basics, you are ready to venture into one of the myriad distilleries scattered about the country. To help get your bearings, you should know that Scotland is divided into five whisky-producing regions. And, as in the case of wine, each region has its own characteristics.

In the region of the Lowlands, in the south of the country, the whisky they produce is mild, light and unsmoky, making it ideal for blends. As it lacks the malt character of the other regions, it is less popular and is produced by a fewer number of distilleries.

Speyside, named after the river Spey which traverses it, is the leading whisky-producing region and the venue for most organised distillery tours. The world’s most popular malts are produced here. One of the must-visit distilleries is Cardhu, located near Archiestown and founded by the whisky smuggler John Cumming in 1824. Glenfiddich, situated in Dufftown, is the only distillery where the distillation, ageing and bottling processes take place on the same premises. At Craigellachie we find the Macallan distillery, which also dates from 1824. Here, the whisky was originally aged in Spanish sherry casks. It set the record for having produced one of the most expensive bottles of liquor ever sold when it fetched $54,000 at an auction. Lastly, the Glenlivet distillery near Ballindalloch is considered to produce one of the finest malts in the region.

The largest region in terms of size and whisky output is the Highlands, situated in the north of Scotland. One of our favourite distilleries here is Oban, located in picturesque Oban Bay, opposite the seafront, which has been producing its excellent malt since 1794. Still in this area, we come to the sub-region known as The Islands which is worth visiting for two gems – the Jura distillery, sited on the island of the same name – an eminently family concern, which has been producing excellent malt whisky since 1810 – and Talisker, located on the priceless island of Skye.

Campbeltown, a region which once boasted up to thirty distilleries, now has only three distilleries in operation.

Lastly, we come to the region of Islay, located on Scotland’s west coast, which is known above all for its smoky whiskies. We recommend a visit to Bowmore, which has one of the first distilleries to be set up on the island, and where the malt is still produced using traditional methods, and Port Ellen, home to the Lagavulin distillery, built in 1816.

Now that you know some of the best whisky distilleries in Scotland, book your Vueling to Edinburgh and get to experience them first-hand.

 

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Cls With Attitude, Sem Shnaider, Rob Schulze, Kkonstan, Stephane Farenga, lynjardine, 82Gab

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Five Wonders Less Than an Hour From Rome

When visiting Rome, the last thing that comes to mind is thinking there may be something else beyond that spectacular city. Indeed, you probably won’t even have time to entertain such thoughts. What with its intricate Roman past, its Renaissance glories and its stunning Baroque heritage, one is hard put to imagine anything beyond its boundaries. Nothing could be further from the truth, however, as there is actually life beyond the city limits – and how! Summer villas, time-locked towns and papal refuges await you less than an hour from Rome. Come along and discover them!

Hadrian’s Villa

Our first gem is situated in the environs of Tivoli, some 45 minutes from Rome – an extraordinary villa which served as Hadrian’s retreat. Like Rome’s ruling class, the emperor sought a place in Rome’s environs where he could escape the bustle of the big city. He did not, however, settle for a simple summer house – going a step further, he had the idea of commissioning a model town featuring replicas of some of the buildings he had visited on his travels. This is the case of Canopus, a copy of a shrine in Alexandria, and of Pecile, an imitation of a building in Athens. The Maritime Theatre is one of the most emblematic constructions in the complex. It features a small villa set on an island in the middle of an artificial lake.

Villa d’Este

Another jewel in the area, located in the centre of Tivoli, is this Renaissance villa, originally a Benedictine convent, which in the 16th century was converted into a palace by Ippolito II d'Este, the son of Lucrezia Borgia. In addition to the building and its rooms, decorated with frescoes in fine taste, its standout feature are the stunning gardens, housing no fewer than 500 fountains! The most striking ensemble is a row of one hundred fountains known as the Fountain of Neptune – which also has a spectacular waterfall – and a fountain with a hydraulic organ that emits sounds.

Villa Gregoriana

Hard by the Villa d’Este is this wonderful park commissioned by Pope Gregory XVI in 1835. Built on the bed of the river Aniene, its most striking feature is a large waterfall, created by diverting the river to protect the area from flooding. Among the lush vegetation in the Villa, which affords some lovely views, stand the archaeological remains of the Temple of Vesta, built in the 1st century BC.

Ostia Antica

Situated 30 kilometres from Rome, near the mouth of the river Tiber, stands the archaeological site of Ostia Antica, once an important port. Founded in the 4th century BC, it was a major trade and defence enclave in ancient Rome. With the fall of the Roman Empire, the city went into decline, while continual invasions and a malaria epidemic led it to be abandoned. The city was buried under river sediments for centuries and has survived to the present in fairly good condition, although less so than Pompeii or Herculaneum. Wandering through what is left of its streets, temples, thermal baths, houses and shops, it is not difficult to imagine what its splendorous past must have been like.

Frascati and Castelgandolfo

Lastly, we have singled out these two beautiful locations in the Alban Hills which form part of the municipal comune known as the Castelli Romani (Castles of Rome). The picturesque town of Frascati is celebrated for its white wine and its villas, commissioned by Popes, cardinals and nobles of Rome as of the 16th century. One such construction is the spectacular Villa Aldobrandini, also known as Belvedere, designed by Giacomo della Porta and completed by Carlo Maderno.

Located on the shores of Lake Albano stands Castelgandolfo, celebrated above all for being the Pope’s summer residence. Although not open to visitors, it is worth strolling around the town centre and soaking up the views.

Book your Vueling to Rome and venture beyond the city’s limits to see some of these sites.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Aquilifer, Adrian Pingstone, M.Maselli, Alexander Mooi, CucombreLibre, Alessandro Malatesta, Polybert49, Sudika, MatthiasKabel

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