Berlin’s Fleamarket Scene. Lazy Sunday Afternoons
Words: Jos Porath – Photos: Lena Aliper
Sunday is the day of rest?! Not so in Berlin. While the party crowd is still going strong, or else nursing their hangovers, sipping espressos and hiding behind dark shades, treasure seekers, bargain hunters and lovers of curiosities flock to the flea markets that pop up all over this mecca of kitsch and knick-knacks on the weekend. Something of a time-honoured tradition, many of the capital’s streets, parks and squares transform into bustling Wunderkabinetts that are a must-do for anyone after a unique gift (to others or self), or a souvenir of the best way to do Sunday strolling in Berlin.
While antiques, vintage clothes, GDR memorabilia, attic finds and someone’s-junk-another-one’s-treasure pieces still dominate, many vendors are also local artists, fashion designers or jewellery makers, offering a chance to snap up one-of-a-kind item particular to Berlin’s creative scene. With twenty plus flea markets to chose from on most weekends, the following top three picks showcase the best of what the barter-and-bargain scene has to offer.
Mauerpark
For those not shy of rubbing shoulders, the flea market at Mauerpark is a must-see. Berlin’s biggest and busiest flea market, this maze features everything from Edwardian nightgowns over formica coffee tables to oversized 1980s knit sweaters, and local designers and artists, and fresh food and drinks stalls to boot. Plan a whole day first scouting the goods, then hang out in the adjoining park watching bands, buskers and performers, or get involved in some open air karaoke.
Bernauer Straße 63-64, Prenzlauer Berg
U8 Bernauer Straße
Sunday, 7 am – 5 pm
Tram M10 Friedrch-Ludwig-Jahn-Sportpark
Arkonaplatz
A five-minute walk from Mauerpark, the flea market at Arkonaplatz is located in a leafy, residential part of town. A much smaller and more upscale/less digging through smelly boxes affair, browsing and shopping here has an almost bespoke quality to it. While the vendors finding, selecting, cleaning and repairing the goods on offer at this market is reflected in the prices, it can make for a welcome shortcut to finding pieces that are either in astonishing condition or have been lovingly restored.
On Arkonaplatz, Prenzlauer Berg
Sunday, 10 am – 4 pm
Tram M1/M12 Zionskirchplatz
Nowkoelln Flowmarkt/Kreuzboerg Flowmarkt
Berlin is becoming younger, hipper and more international by the day, and the flea markets most reflective of these exciting changes are the Nowkoelln Flowmarkt near the canal at Maybachufer, as well as Kreuzboerg flea market in the Prinzessinnengardens in the heart of Kreuzberg. Aiming to attract a younger crowd with a well-presented and priced selection of hip second hand items, trendy vintage pieces and timeless design objects, as well as top notch food and coffee stalls, the two markets are a great place to stroll, browse and people-watch.
Nowkoelln Flowmarkt, Neukölln
Maybachufer
Every first and third Sunday of the month, 10 am – 6 pm
U8 Schönleinstraße
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Kreuzboerg Flowmarkt
Prinzessinnengärten, Kreuzberg
Every second and fourth Sunday of the month, 10 am – 6 pm
U8/Bus M29 Moritzplatz
Words: Jos Porath – Photos: Lena Aliper
Makes you want to go, right? Do it! Check out our prices here!
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In the Footsteps of Joan of Arc
Joan of Arc is one of those unforgettable historical figures with a passionate biography. Her life has spawned a myriad of books and films that attempt to uncover the secrets of that mysterious personage. Born into times of upheaval, against the backdrop of the Thirty Years’ War, she went from being a humble, illiterate countrywoman to leading an army of five thousand men, all prompted by her “visions”. It was God himself that talked to her and told her she had a mission to accomplish – to lead the French army and drive out the English in order to achieve the coronation of Charles VII of France. Quite a feat! This might seem outlandish to us now but, in the early 15th century, the role and power of religion were undisputed. Not for nothing were kings thus proclaimed “by the grace of God”. What’s more, the recipient of these visions was a brave and tenacious woman with powerful convictions.
Orleans, the City that Saw Her Triumph
One of the key moments in her life took place in Orleans, for which she was thenceforth known as the Maid of Orleans. On 8 May 1429 she accomplished one of her most extraordinary feats by liberating the city from the English, which marked the beginning of the reconquest of the occupied territories. To commemorate her victory, the Joan of Arc Festival is held in Orleans at this time every year at which her momentous feat is re-enacted through mock battles, accompanied by a modern festival event, the Set Electro Festival, with various DJ performances.
During the siege of Orleans, our heroine lived in the house of Jacques Boucher, treasurer to the Duke of Orleans. Rebuilt in 1960, it is currently known as the House of Joan of Arc. The building features a multimedia room, and a research and documentation centre for those wishing to learn more about the Maid of Orleans and her passage through the city.
For the more scholarly researchers, the Joan of Arc Centre houses one of the largest libraries on the subject, enabling visitors to consult a host of period manuscripts and documents.
Rouen – the Tragic End
After her passage through Orleans, Joan of Arc sought to lay down her arms, as she had ceased to have visions, but she was entreated to return to the battlefield and ended up acquiescing. This time things did not go so well. After being defeated in a number of campaigns, in 1430 she was captured by the Burgundians, handed over to the English and taken to Rouen. Here commenced the most arduous episode in her life. After a lengthy inquisitorial procedure, she was accused of heresy and witchcraft and sentenced to be burned at the stake.
During her interrogation, she was incarcerated in the Dungeon or Joan of Arc Tower, part of the castle built by Philippe Auguste in 1204. Still standing, the castle is open to the public.
The Archiepiscopal Palace, an acclaimed specimen of medieval architecture and the setting for part of the legal process was recently converted into the Historial Jeanne d’Arc. Inaugurated in March 2015, it is now the largest area dedicated to the memory of Joan of Arc. Its 1,000m2 of floor space is endowed with the latest technologies for narrating and unveiling the history of our heroine and taking us back to the period she lived in.
Joan of Arc was executed on 30 May 1431 in the Place du Vieux Marché, now an essential place of pilgrimage. The Church of Joan of Arc was built in the square in 1979, designed by the architect, Louis Arretche, for a dual purpose – to honour St Joan of Arc and as a civilian memorial to the heroine. The church was built on the very spot where the saint was burned alive, and the exact location of her martyrdom is duly marked.
How to Get There
Both destinations are a train journey of just over an hour away from Paris. The Orleans train runs from the Gare Austerlitz, while the Rouen line starts at the Gare Saint-Lazare.
Live out the story of Joan of Arc – check out our flights to Paris here.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Photos by fidber, Roger Salz and Edhral
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Catania: Flavor, Fire, Light and Water
The province of Catania offers to travelers a wide range of landscapes, passing by small bays and bucolic trails, from Etna, the highest volcano in Europe, to the waters of the Ionian coast. And, as in landscapes, gastronomy of Catania is formed by great diversity of traditional recipes where converge Mediterranean tastes and textures.
Herbs, spices and products make a journey of flavors on the palate. From oriental spices like cinnamon and saffron - that flavored so many dishes-, to the sweet and sour or citrus contrasts.
The Etna volcanic soil is rich in minerals which, alongside with its characteristic climate, allows the cultivation of excellent fruits like lemons and oranges, tangerines, apples, olives, almonds, strawberries, cherries, hazelnuts, chestnuts and the production of quality wines worldwide recognized.
One of the great products of this dark and fertile land is the Bronte pistachio, the "green gold of Sicily", which is used for making ice cream, sauces and in many recipes.
Historic markets
Perfect to discover the land's products, nothing better than to visit its historic markets, the Fescheria and the Piazza Carlo Alberto Markets, who from early hours swarm at a frantic pace.
In Fescheria, located in Duomo Square, the visitor can try some of the products in site , such as clams, mussels, sardines, anchovies, oysters, sea urchins or mauru, an algae of the area which is eaten raw and dressed with a few drops of lemon.
Granita
To start the day, especially in summer, you should try the typical Catanese breakfast with lemon granita, almond, strawberry or chocolate, accompanied by a brioche called Tuppu. The granita is a Sicilian icecream that has little to do with the typical Italian icecream; it is similar to the typical granita but more creamy and refreshing, and is made with natural fruit.
Pasta alla Norma
The most traditional dish is "Pasta alla Norma", which is normally prepared with macaroni or spaghetti, tomato sauce, crispy fried eggplant, fresh ricotta, albahaca, and is named after the most famous opera composer Vincenzo Bellini, born in Catania.
Arancini
Taste as well the typical arancini for a snack or a light meal. It is a ball of fried rice prepared in Sicily in a thousand ways: filled with meat, spinach, ham or eggplant. It must be eaten by holding the tip. They are very good at restaurantes such as Etoile d'Or (the Piazza Umberto), Spinella (Via Etnea 298) or Da Ernesto. (Via Ruggero di Lauria 91/93)
Catanese pastry
Do not forget the famous Catanese pastry and, especially, the popular cannoli -a flaky pastry filled with ricotta and nuts-, the cassata alla ricotta or almond and pistachio pastries. They can be found in many local street Etnea, as in Pasticceria Savia, one of the most prestigious bakeries in Catania. (Via Etnea 300 http://www.savia.it/)
Chioschi
One of the attractions of the Catanian cuisine are its chioschi , a octagonal shaped booths at strategic shadowy places, where thirst and temporary fatigue are relieved. Some refreshments are traditionally served based in fruit syrups mixed with carbonated water time.
Each neighborhood has its own chioschi. It comes to be the place where people get together at any time as they are open almost 24 hours a day. Here you will appreciate the habits and customs of the Catanese.
The first chioschi called Costa, opened in 1986 in Piazza Stesicoro, and later opened Vezzosi in Piazza Duomo. The Costa moved to Piazza Santo Spirito and Vezzosi moved to Piazza Vittorio Emanuele III, where they are today.
Picture Pasta alla Norma by Paoletta S.
A place well worth discovering! Check out our flights here.
more infoThe 3 Best Crêperies» in Rennes
We travelled to Rennes but, before embarking on this delectable tour, just a word of clarification – a crêperie does not only serve crêpes, but two, distinct variations. First, there are the galettes, in which the dough is made of water, butter, eggs and buckwheat. They are usually filled with savoury ingredients and accompanied with a glass of cider or a buttermilk known as lait ribot. Then of course, there are the crêpes proper, which are sweet. You have been warned!
Traditional and… Organic Galettes – Crêperie Paysanne
Make sure you stop over at this restaurant in the place Sainte-Anne pedestrian precinct, in the heart of the city. Their crêpes and galettes are really exceptional and the helpings plentiful, spilling out of the dish. The peculiarity of Crêperie Paysanne is that all the dishes are made with organic, regional ingredients. We can recommend traditional Brittany galette, with ham, cheese and an egg garnish. With such tasty, fresh ingredients, this basic galette gives off all its potential in flavour and aroma, particularly if washed down with cider or apple juice, which here are especially potent on account of their organic, homemade character. As if that were not enough, the galettes can be accompanied with a glass of lait ribot, which is currently made only in Brittany. The taste? Something like natural buttermilk, but with a sour, yoghurt aftertaste. Average price: galette + drink - €13 per head.
33 Savoury Specialities, & 33 Sweet Ones – Crêperie Saint-Georges
This is the crêperie which locals recommend and that is always a reliable sign. Here they offer more than 33 galettes and the same number of crêpes. The menu’s originality lies in the fact that each dish pays homage to some illustrious “George”. Special mentions go to George Clooney, featuring fresh goatsmilk cheese, spinach, tomato, cucumber sorbet and basil, and Giogio Armani, with a filling of pan-cooked foie gras, sautéed potatoes, duck magret, fleur de sel and balsamic reduction. Among the most original crêpe dishes are assorted sweets, and Milka or Smarties chocolate, but only for the really sweet-toothed. Modern, elegant interior design which exudes serenity. Average price: galette + drink - €12 per head.
Peace & Food – La Rozell
In downtown Rennes, La Rozell is another prominent venue. While their menu is as worthy of any other crêperie, what singles this one out is its priceless interior patio, where you can dine amid lush vegetation – a genuinely peaceful backwater, secluded from noise and the city bustle. Of the galettes, we especially liked l’armorique (sautéed scallop, bacon, cream and mushrooms). For dessert, try the fouesnantaise,made of apple flambéed with Lambig (a local, cider-based spirit), or the tatin caramel, a delicacy filled with salted butter – one of the region’s treasures – sautéed apple, homemade caramel and vanilla ice-cream. A taste of heaven! Average price: galette + drink - €12 per head.
You’re getting hungry, right? Come to Rennes and try their crêpes and galettes. Check out our flights here.
Text and images by Laia Zieger (Gastronomistas)
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