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Destination: Gambia. The Gateway to Africa

By Clara Arnedo

I’ve just got back from Gambia and some of the sights still linger in my mind: the rainbow that appears onTanji beach every day at sunset, when fishing boats laden with fish come back to the port, and the whole town takes part in collecting and selling the fresh fish. These are just a few of the memories that this small but perfect country leaves with you, to help you get an idea of what Africa is really like. Now Vueling makes it easier for us to travel to the Gambia, with a new route connecting Barcelona and Banjul, the capital of the country.

The journey starts in the capital, Banjul, a city that is small and pleasant. And so is the country, with a population of 1.6 million. Banjul is a relatively safe and peaceful city, where it is worth exploring the crowded colourful markets selling all kinds of wares. The most outstanding is Albert Market, a large typically African market mainly selling fruit, vegetables and fish. When sellers and customers see us they are reluctant at first and quickly avoid our cameras. But after a while they gradually become more open and available. All they need is a little time.

Another attraction in the city is Arch 22, in honour of the president, the bodyguard of the former president, who took his position on 22 June 1994. Since then he has been the great protagonist of the Gambia: we see Yahya Jammeh everywhere – on posters stuck on walls and lampposts in every village and every town.

But the Gambia is especially a country with a coast that opens out to the Atlantic Ocean; a wedge-shaped country that cuts into Senegal and is divided in two by the river that gives the country its name – the Gambia.

First we go to the coast to discover the long, fine sand beaches of Banjul. There are hotels on the seafront, affording a spectacular view of the ocean. But the most memorable fishing scene has got to be Tanji, where you can find a flurry of colours and life every evening on the shore when the fish is brought in. It seems like chaos but there is actually an internal organisation and hierarchy, and laws that enable the same spectacle to happen every day at sunset. The men are strong and muscular and are in charge of carrying tons of fish from the boats to the beach, balancing the baskets on their heads. Once they are on the shore, the women collect the treasure to wash it and prepare it to be sold… young men run further to look for spots to set up and sell the fish. The children often follow, running fast at their heels, hoping to catch a bit of fish that might fall on the way. This makeshift fish market on the sand is the tip of the iceberg of this small country that is bursting with life. In the morning, in that same spot, a colourful fruit and vegetable market materialises, dominated by women buying and selling food. One of these women is Ida Cham Njai, a beautiful and energetic chef who offers the unique experience of accompanying her to shop in the market, and then spending a pleasant day cooking local produce with her at her home. The gastronomy and local produce are the best ways to learn a bit more about this pleasant destination.

A British redoubt in colonial times, it is now one of the smallest countries in West Africa. It also has one of the highest birth rates. The Gambia is full of children, and mothers who wrap them to their hips: it is a beautiful and typical scene of the country. The rest of the country is made up of the jungle, nature and many animals: monkeys, birds and even hippos. The further upstream you go, the wilder nature is, and the more rural the population is… it is a wild adventure to go up the river towards the town of Georgetown, because there are not many places for accommodation. Tourism is not widely developed in the Gambia, and that is part of its charm. In any case, you don’t have to travel very far from Banjul to discover the wild. NearSerrekunda, the largest and busiest city in the country, we find Bijilo National Park, or Monkey Park, which includes easy paths to walk around. In this area you can also visit a crocodile pond, and you can even touch one of the crocodiles! This is the other side of the Gambia, with its river and mangrove swamps; the more authentic Gambia, one of the least developed countries on earth, with a life expectancy of 54 years and a literacy rate of 40%.

But this is not the end of the journey, and the Gambia, despite being a small country, still has a few surprises in store for us. Can you imagine remote African villages invaded by Street Art and graffiti? Well, this is what you can find in the Gambia. Specifically in Bafuloto and Makumbaya – two names that are hard to remember, two villages with small and simple houses, streets made of sand and dirt, where children play under the sun. And on the walls of these huts is where the Wide Open Walls movement found one of its favourite canvases. Pictures that depict nature, with animals from the area and other motifs that fill these places with colour.

A great way of discovering the Gambia from different perspective. Another way of penetrating Africa through this small gateway.

By Clara Arnedo

 

Makes you want to go, right? Do it! Check out our prices here!

 

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The best gin & tonics in Barcelona

Bar Calders

 

At Bar Calders, first opened in mid-March 2011 and located on the corner of Calle Parlament and Passatge de Pere Calders, their goal has been to pay tribute to this great writer in their own special way.

Enjoying their gin & tonics on the peaceful Andalusian-style terrace is an absolute joy. The owners, Ramón Lamarca and his son Marc, pour them with great care, adding a few juniper berries and never without a cheery smile.

Bar Calders
25 Carrer Parlament, 08015 Barcelona
933299349
Opening times: 08:30 to 02:00-03:00

Úbeda Gin&Tapas

 

Úbeda has become one of the fashionable places to have a drink in Barcelona, especially now that the gin & tonic has moved away from only being a favourite among the older population and has now been embraced by young people too. Úbeda has received much recognition for its cocktails.
Javier Úbeda is the founder and also responsible for the décor, in which his artistic side comes across strongly through the numerous paintings, works of art and small details that make this place so welcoming.
The menu includes a wide range of gins, all of which are served with Fever-Tree tonic: Citadelle Gin Reserve 2008, Blackwood, Bulldog, Hendrick’s, Plymouth and Seagram’s, among many others.

Úbeda
202 Valencia | 133 Josep Tarradellas | 339 Córcega

Pesca Salada

 

Pesca Salada still conserves the old sign bearing the name of this local shop and the old fridges that now hide the toilets. Apart from that, the place has been renovated to look like a huge tin of sardines: an original ceiling of gold and silver scales; a mosaic floor designed to look like waves; the painted vinyls; a fish tank with hanging fish; and a beach with cocktail umbrellas. All of this fits into a small bar with wooden tables and chairs in the very heart of Raval.

They prepare all kinds of cocktails with a particular focus on the gin & tonic. Iván explains that they have more than 24 different types of gin for preparing gin & tonics with great care for a price of between € 6 and € 9, all of which can be mixed with Brand Tonic, Fever Tree or Fentimans, to mention just three.

Pesca Salada
32 Calle de la Cera, 08001 Barcelona

Cassette Bar

 

The nostalgic look of the 80’s returns to the Raval district of Barcelona at Bar Cassette.
The interior décor is based on lamps made from cassette tapes. The entrance window is decorated with old cassette decks, music posters and other vintage items. Although the place is small, there is an even more intimate area resembling your own living room complete with the settee, lamp and typical picture on the wall.
The two owners of Bar Cassette, Laura and Fabio, both from La Rioja, prepare numerous cocktails (particularly gin & tonics) with great care and include a free tapa until 22:30.

Cassette Bar
11 Calle del Este, 08001 Barcelona
933 028 509

Tirsa Cocktail Bar

 

Tirsa is a family business that has gradually become increasingly specialised. It is now one of the best cocktail bars in the city. The experienced barman, Manel Tirvió will advise you on the gin & tonic that best suits your tastes as they do not have a fixed menu.
It used to be a grocery store but the business was adapted in line with the great passion the owner had for the world of cocktails.
They serve gin & tonics in a tall glass with only two ice cubes so the drink never gets watered down and maintains the original flavours from the first sip until the last.

174 Calle de Rafael Campalans, 08903 L’Hospitalet de Llobregat, Barcelona
93 431 23 02

Bar Elephanta

 

Bar Elephanta offers gins from all over the world, different tonics and various options to add a twist so that everyone can find the combination of flavours they like the most.

Here’s how it works: first you have to pick the gin you like the most from the list of 36 different varieties at prices that range from € 6 to € 11; then pick a twist from a list that includes lime, lemon, grapefruit or mandarin, such classics as the juniper berry or lime, flower-fruits such as natural rose petals or fruits of the forest, herbs such as fresh rosemary, mint and arbequino olives or spices such as black pepper, coffee, liquorice, cardamom and lemon or nutmeg; finally, you pick a tonic. A Schweppes is included in the price of the gin but if you want a special mixer, choose the catalane tonic, Boylan or 6 O’clock for an extra euro.

If you think all those choices might be too complicated, you can pick straight from a list of house suggestions that includes a Blackwood with meta strawberry, a twist of lime and Boylan tonic for € 10.

Elephanta Bar
37 Carrer del Torrent de Vidalet, 08012 Barcelona
Tel.: 932 376 906
Open every day. Monday to Saturday from 18:00. Sundays from 17:00.

 

So you feel like visiting Barcelona, do you? Book your flights here!

 

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Three Essential Spots on Gran Canaria

But, that is not all. There is also an endless array of places to visit and activities to engage in. Despite the myriad options, we have made a selection of the spots we feel you can’t afford to miss.

It is well known that Gran Canaria’s beaches are one of its major draws but, to leave it at that would be doing an injustice to an island that has practically unlimited potential. Following is a selection of three must-see sights – apart from the beaches, of course – for your next trip to the island. Our choice is based on several criteria, not just its touristic appeal. Here, then, is our ranking:

 3) Painted Cave Museum and Archaeological Park

The Painted Cave Museum and Archaeological Park complex is one of the most stunning sites in Gran Canaria. It lies in the heart of Gáldar’s town centre (Calle Audiencia, 2), in the north of the island. The approach road is therefore the same one leading into the historic centre.

The Painted Cave was discovered in 1862 as a result of agricultural earthwork. The cave interior is huge, its walls richly decorated with all kinds of geometric symbols. The archaeological complex is currently made up of six caves carved out by the ancient dwellers of Gran Canaria, and remains of red ochre can still be seen adorning the walls and ceiling.

The various archaeological projects implemented around the Painted Cave in recent years revealed the presence of a terrace-built country home. The outworks connect the bottom of the gulley to the town’s historic centre, forming what was one of the quarters in the pre-Hispanic Agáldar settlement.

2) Teror Town Centre

The origins of Teror predate the island’s conquest by the Crown of Castile in the 15th century. Indeed, the place-name is derived from the indigenous word Aterura, Therore or Terori, the meaning of which is unknown.

The town’s history and development are closely linked to the Marian apparition of the Virgin of the Pine and the existence of a shrine dating from 1514. However, writings containing references to its station as a centre of pilgrimage do not emerge until two centuries after its foundation.

The “Villa Mariana de Teror” was designated an Art History Complex in 1979, turning it into one of the leading tourist destinations in the island’s interior. Folk traditions and beautiful, meticulously designed houses go hand-in-hand in the streets of Teror, noted for the views they afford of typical Canarian balconies.

A stroll through the historic centre of the town should start willy-nilly at the square of Nuestra Señora del Pino, alongside the church. You can get there quickly from the parking lot by crossing the square above it and heading down Calle Obispo Marquina. If you’re travelling by bus, it stops on the east side of the precinct, so you only need to continue along the Calle Real to the square at the end.

1) The Guayadeque Gorge

The Guayadeque Gorge lies between the towns of Agüimes and Ingenio, in the east of Gran Canaria. The area is of great environmental value and has a rich heritage, leading it to be designated a Natural Monument and an Asset of Cultural Interest – categorised as an “Archaeological Area” – a distinction granted it by the Canary Islands’ Law of Historical Heritage.

The road running through the gorge winds among spectacular cliffs awash with a large variety of pre-Hispanic archaeological deposits and sites, prominent among them being the settlement known as Bermeja Cave.

Housed there is the Guayadeque Gorge Information Centre, open every day except Monday, where you can find out about the archaeological sites in the area and glean a lot of other interesting information about this priceless spot. Visitors will also be able to learn more about the rich, natural fauna and flora in the gorge.

Towards the end of the road winding through the Guayadeque gorge you will come to a number of restaurants set  in the rock face itself. The most popular of them is El Centro, comprising a cave complex that creates a unique setting for a restaurant. They offer an extensive menu with dishes representative of Canary Island cuisine, featuring such specialities as fried pork, mixed grill and barbecued pork.

Fancy discovering it for yourself? Check out our flights here.


Images by Patronato Turismo Gran Canaria

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Halloween in London

Everyone is aware that Halloween is now a global festivity celebrated all over the world. So, if you’re a die-hard, why not see for yourself just how they stage it on the spot in various parts of the world? For instance, in London, a city enthralled with Witches Night.

At some stage you must have spent a date like New Year’s Eve, Carnival or Christmas abroad. It is a common practice among seasoned travellers to get away from their home country whenever they can for those hallowed days. But, those are not the only special events that prompt people to fly off to other lands. If there is any special day that has become hugely popular in recent times it is Halloween, which is held in considerable esteem by English-speaking nations and has, happily, been exported elsewhere, too.

One of the paramount cities when it comes to celebrating that night, particularly in the guise of horror movies, macabre events, the supernatural and, of course, pumpkins is London. It is one of the European cities with the greatest accretion and tradition of horror stories and legends, making it a must-visit venue for Halloween devotees the world over. The City has a generous lineup of activities for this, the most terrifying festivity in the year. We have chosen five of them for your delectation, if you happen to be flying to London for 31 October.

Abney Park Cemetery

With such a long history, a large city like London is bound to have numerous, centuries-old cemeteries with priceless architectural charm which are a tourist draw in themselves. One of the most spectacular graveyards is Abney Park, on the outskirts of the city near the Stoke Newington tube stop. Strolling along its paths between gravestones and age-old tombs overgrown with vegetation, you feel like you’ve stepped into a story by Edgar Allan Poe or H. P. Lovecraft.

Haunted Tattoo

After a walk through Abney Park, go down to Holloway Road (a street known for its cultural offerings and a haven for a large art community) and drop in on Haunted Tattoo. Over and above drawings etched into the skin, this tattoo studio stands out as a small museum featuring all kinds of objects relating to horror movies, literature, comics and illustration. Making no concession to horror vacui, the premises will leave you open-mouthed. Fear not – knock on the door, even if you don’t plan to have a tattoo done.

Jack The Ripper and the Whitechapel District

A dream plan for any Halloween enthusiast. If you’re ever in London for Halloween, make a point of trying the sightseeing route that follows the life and exploits of this notorious first serial killer of modern times. You can set up your own tour on the Internet but, if you prefer to have it laid on, you could opt for The Jack The Ripper Tour, highly rated and recommended by users.

The Rocky Horror Picture Show at the Prince Charles

Once you’ve completed the previous three tasks, the ideal way of opening the Witches Day evening is by attending one of the best horror musicals in cinema history – The Rocky Horror Picture Show. Located in Leicester Place, near the heart of the City, the Prince Charles Cinema is one of the most unusual in London with its policy of re-screening film classics. And, needless to say, for Halloween they have lined up a special screening at which – take note – you can sing along with the stars of the movie, as this is a sing-along session – What a treat!

John Carpenter at the Troxy

The icing on the cake for these splendid Halloween dates are the two live performances by John Carpenter in London on 31 October and 1 November. A legend of horror movies, and also known for having composed the soundtracks of his films, Carpenter will be giving two concerts featuring soundtracks from such movies as The Fog, They Live and Assault on Precinct 13, as well as new songs from his studio recordings. You can enjoy these performances in style, in one of London’s iconic cinemas, the Troxy, in the Commercial Road area near the Limehouse tube stop.

Liven up your horror Halloween in London – book your Vueling here.

Text by Xavi Sánchez for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by DAVID HOLT, James Nash, Tarquin Binary , Holloway Life, Alexander Baxevanis, Matt From London

 

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