Amsterdam. A journey through time
Words: Ilanka Verhoeven
Believe it or not, there are far more reasons to visit Amsterdam these days than its infamous coffee shops or its red-light district. Along the harbor and in the city’s South Axis area, futuristic buildings have been going up – a modern counterpart to the city’s canal houses. Amsterdam touches the heart of anyone who is passionate about architecture, from historic to modern buildings. To explore them, just act like a local: hop on a bike and go.
1. The Eye Film Institute
All tourists arriving by train in Amsterdam are immediately treated to a view of the beautiful futuristic building across the IJ harbor. The free commuter ferries leaving Central station are mostly packed with locals who are familiar with the new creative center of Amsterdam. Designed by the Vienna-based firm Delugan Meissl Associated Architects, the Eye Film Institute opened in April 2012 in North Amsterdam, a district which was considered to be a no man’s land at the time. The Eye institute offers the visitor a large choice of attractions. The building houses four modern film auditoriums, an exhibition space and a freely accessible basement where movies and clips from the Eye collection can be viewed. The café-restaurant completes the Eye’s headquarters. The terrace offers a great view over the water. Enough reasons to cross the waters and be entranced by the architecture of the Eye Film Institute.
2. Jan Schaefer Bridge
The futuristic steel bridge named after the politician Jan Schaefer is located on the IJ harbor and connects the Piet Heinkade with Java Island. Designed by Ton Venhoeven, the shape of the bridge generates a multiplicity of experiences. An intricate web of connections divides the bridge into separate flows of traffic. Whether you are on foot, by car or on a bike the bridge is accessible to everyone. The bridge provides an interesting combination of modern and historic architecture since it passes under the old ‘De Zwijger’ warehouse. The monumental warehouse built in 1933 in the business- expressionistic style, was renovated in 2006 and now serves for cultural institutions and events.
3. Museum het Schip
Designed by the prodigy born of the Amsterdam School movement Michel de Klerk, Het Schip is located in the district of Spaarndammerbuurt. One of the few of de Klerk’s designs actually built, the building was designed in 1919 and since 2001 it’s the museum of the Amsterdam School. The highly unusual and unique monument to expressionist architecture is a great site for anyone interested in learning more about Amsterdam’s history. Next to the building there is also a collection of street furniture in the style of the Amsterdam School.
4. Zuidas
Zuidas is best known as a leading international business centre. Home to international companies, the Zuidas area seems to have been created by and for lovers of modern architecture. The skyscrapers of renowned architects such as Toyo Ito provide a spectacular view over Amsterdam. One thing is certain: The Rock building at the Zuidas evokes strong reactions, both positive and negative. The work of Erick van Egeraat distinguishes itself from others by facades with leaning panes of glass, aluminum, stone or concrete with hardly any 90 degrees corners. The playful base of 24 floors, consisting of transparent parts and a robust concrete top is characteristic of Deconstructivism, a1990s movement. Aside from the Rock there are many other buildings worth the visit, among them Ito and Viñoly.
5. Theatre Tuschinski
Rising above the neighbourhood of the Rembrandtplein are the two towers of the Art Deco façade Theatre Tuschinski. Built in 1921, the Theatre was erected based on the designs of architect H.L. De Jong, with interior decor by Pieter den Besten and Jaap Gidding. The exterior is a crossover between the Dutch Amsterdam School style, art nouveau and art deco. Despite the renovation works between 1998 and 2002 the theatre holds on to its original style. Today, the Tuschinski Theater belongs to the big distributor Pathé, which gives you a good excuse to see the latest movies while enjoying its art deco interiors.
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5 Highlights of A Leipzig Getaway
In terms of tourism, Germany is much more than just Berlin, Munich and Hamburg. In recent years, some cities from the former German Democratic Republic (GDR) are gaining prominence like any other, having shaken off the dust and deadweight of the Socialist regime they lived under during the Cold War. One of these newly emerging cities is Leipzig, its waxing popularity driven by the art scene, its recent history and the great vitality of its inhabitants. In the following we pinpoint the reasons that make Leipzig the ideal destination for your next getaway.
Leipzig – A Music Destination
Listen up, classical music lovers! Music is very much in vogue in Leipzig, and I mean goodmusic, largely owing to the city’s past. It is famous for composers of the calibre of Johann Sebastian Bach, who was cantor of the Choir at St Thomas Church, one of the oldest in the world. And of Robert Schumann and Clara Wieck, who entertained their contemporaries as musicians and as a couple. For Felix Mendelssohn, Leipzig was where he spent the last few years of his life, while the city is the birthplace of Richard Wagner. The Augustusplatz is the city’s music hub and the site of the Gewandhaus concert hall, a Brutalist-style building which houses one of the most widely acclaimed symphonic orchestras. Right opposite stands the Opera, the third oldest in Europe. Oddly enough, the two institutions share the same conductor.
Leipzig – A Defiant City
The chain of events that led to the downfall of the GDR unfolded precisely in Leipzig. Throughout 1989, a number of masses and peaceful protests were held around the Church of St Nicholas that gradually wore down the old, established regime and led to the fall of the Berlin Wall. The Stasi, the feared secret police of East Germany, witnessed these events in silence, as, faced with growing grass-roots pressure, they declined to intervene. Leipzig boasted numerous printing presses in the second half of the 20th century and, in order to monitor their activity, the Stasi had their headquarters set up in the so-called Haus zur runden Ecke (House of the Rounded Corner). Today it is a museum showcasing the workings of the former State security, which so hobbled the lives of the GDR’s citizens.
Leipzig – A Trade Centre & River Port
Leipzig has long been a major trade centre and, to provide merchants conducting their business with shelter from the inclement weather – rainy and overcast most of the year – around twenty covered arcades were built. Two of the best known arcades are Speck’s Hof – the oldest in Leipzig, which currently showcases some magnificent paintings and ceramic medallions, and the Mädler arcade with its stylish glass skylight and the historic Auerbachs Keller restaurant, where Goethe overheard the stories that inspired Faust when he was studying in Leipzig. As a tribute to the celebrated writer, there are two statues dedicated to the main characters in this paramount work of universal literature.
Leipzig’s commercial calling is partly due to the White Elster river, a sub-tributary of the Elbe, which numerous canals criss-crossing the city flow into. They also provide a different way of discovering it – from a small boat.
Leipzig – An Artistic Melting Pot
The Saxon city is currently one of the favourite destinations among painters, designers and creators from the world over on account of the lively art scene that has blossomed in the Spinnerei, once Europe’s largest spinning mill. Today it is an unusual, colossal cultural centre where contemporary art is produced and exhibited. It features twelve art galleries, a hundred art studios and over a hundred cubicles rented out to creators who flock to Leipzig to soak up the latest trends and share their know-how with other colleagues. Here, they feel very much at home.
Leipzig – A Grand City
Leipzig is a distinguished city with character and some striking monuments and other buildings. Prominent in the Augustusplatz is the Paulinum, one of the Leipzig University buildings, featuring a facade emulating the Paulinerkirche, the former university church which was senselessly dynamited in 1968 during the times of the GDR regime. Another building which stands out, at least for its height, is the City-Hochhaus, known as the “wisdom tooth” on account of its design. The top floor of this landmark houses the Panorama Tower restaurant and viewing platform. Their lunch menu is very reasonable and the eatery is worth visiting, if only for the splendid views.
The city also features a colossal monument which, apart from being oversized, also has an unpronounceable name – the Völkerschlachtdenkmal– which was built to commemorate the Battle of the Nations in 1813, specifically the defeat of Napoleon at Leipzig by a coalition of nations, namely Prussia, Russia, Sweden and Austria.
Come and discover this German city – check out your Vueling here.
Text by Tus Destinos
Images by Robin Kunz, Michael Bader, Peter Hirth, LTM-Tom Schulze, Nils Petersen
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8 Things to Do If You re Touring London With Children
Don’t be fooled – a trip with children is never like one without them. Those long walks to discover Shoreditch’s designer stores, the night-time gin tonic in a new, stylish bar in Dalston or endless mornings spent trying out vintage spectacles in Spitalfields will morph into such activities as throwing breadcrumbs to our friends the ducks. Following is a rundown of the things we can do if destiny takes us to London in the company of our household nippers.
Lunch at La Roma Bella
Just opposite the British Museum, an essential visit if our children are minors – and even if they aren’t, what the heck – stands this restaurant, defined as “the most family friendly place in London”. Here, the kids can enjoy a dish of tasty, wholesome pasta, while the staff amuse them and give them paper and crayonsto draw, to later hang up the results on the restaurant’s main wall. Their prices are moderate, a break from the somewhat exorbitant prices in town.
A Visit to the Zoo
Reaching the Zoo can end up being like a desert crossing if you happen to start off outside the city centre. Distances in London are enormous, but the effort is worth your while, as it is the oldest zoo in the world after Vienna’s, dating from 1828. They have an incredible reptile section and species which the whole family will probably be seeing for the first time, as well as lots of spots to relax. We recommend approaching the zoo by crossing beautiful Regent’s Park, one of our favourite London parks for children – apart from the fact that there is always something going on there, it has a big lake with various species of friendly ducks which, for your kids, will really make their day. As if that weren’t enough, there is also a huge playground and a lovely restaurant with a pleasant terrace.
An Incursion into Europe’s Largest Toy Store
In Piccadilly, where the lights, the festive atmosphere and the multi-coloured shop windows make this an attraction in itself for young and old alike, be sure to stop off at Hamley’s, an amazing department store dedicated solely to toys, where the most variegated product presentations seem to be happening all the time. You won’t leave empty-handed and are likely to spend more time in the shop than you bargained for, but the look on your children’s faces will be priceless.
The House of Sherlock Holmes
You don’t need to know anything about Sherlock Holmes to have a great time in the house of this aloof, intelligent investigator with the odd addiction. At 11 Baker Streett here is the perfect mock-up of what is supposed to be the home of the most famous detective in the history of fiction. The children will be aghast at the sheer number of objects on display in there.
An Afternoon in the London Transport Museum
This museum, located in Covent Garden, features a collection of over 80 vehicles which youngsters are allowed to climb into and play around in as much as they want, in addition to numerous interactive devices distributed throughout the depot.
Lunch at Gordon Ramsay’s Union Street Café
This restaurant is not exclusively for children, but a very pleasant spot for the whole family to enjoy the cuisine of one of the United Kingdom’s celebrity chefs (with the permission of Jamie Oliver and Lorraine Pascale). It is sited in the pleasant district of Southwark, once a working-class area, which is gaining momentum as a hipster venue of late. It is near the Tate Gallery (another museum which is ideal for families, as they lay on numerous activities for children), so it is ideal for having lunch before visiting the museum. The menu features carefully prepared Italian cuisine which caters to all tastes.
Cereal Killer
After lunch at Ramsay’s and a visit to the Tate, a good option would be to head for this café in Brick Lane, run by two hipster brothers who serve only breakfast cereals, with various types of milk and toppings. There you will discover more kinds of cereal than you could imagine, including limited editions, which children will delight in. They will feel very much at home in the midst of the sweet paradise that unfolds before their eyes, apart from rubbing shoulders with customers in this modish locale.
Text and photos by Laura Conde of Gastronomistas.com
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The 5 Must-See Parks in Madrid
1. El Retiro – the Most Popular of All
Stretching across 118 hectares, El Retiro Park is one of Madrid’s best known green areas. Close to the centre and readily accessible, it has long been a favourite among both Madrilenians and visitors to the city. Its origins go back to the period 1631–1640, when a second royal residence, known as the Palacio del Buen Retiro, was built on this site, the surrounding parkland being designated as a leisure area for the monarchs. Hardly anything has survived from those times as the palace was demolished after the Peninsula War in 1808. Following the revolution of 1868, the park was declared a public facility.
If you have a day to spend in El Retiro, you can fit in a stroll in search of Madrid’s purportedly oldest tree, have some refreshment at one of the kiosks, go for a boat ride on the Estanque Grande (Large Pond), see one of the scheduled exhibitions in the Velázquez Palace or the Palacio de Cristal (Crystal Palace), soak up the lush vegetation, research the park’s history through its fountains and statues and discover one of the few sculptures of the Ángel Caído (Fallen Angel).
2. The Casa de Campo – Madrid’s Largest Public Park
This is the largest urban park in Spain, spread across 1,722 hectares. It was once a preserve of the Spanish Crown, for which it operated as a hunting area, among other things. With the proclamation of the Second Republic, the park was made over to the city of Madrid and turned into a public precinct.
The Casa de Campo is the perfect spot for doing such sports as cycling, running, hiking and football. It also has sports facilities for tennis and swimming, and you can go canoeing or sailing on its iconic lake.
But the park offers more than just sport, boasting a large number of leisure facilities: an amusement park, zoo, various fairgrounds, the Madrid Arena multi-purpose pavilion and the Venta del Batán. Another of the major attractions here is the cableway linking the Casa del Campo to the Parque del Oeste, affording magnificent views over the park and the city of Madrid.
3. The Regal Air of the Campo del Moro Gardens
Designated an “Art Historical Garden” in 1931, it stretches across 20 hectares, running from the west side of the Royal Palace to the Paseo de la Virgen del Puerto. Legend has it that, in 1109, the Almoravid leader, Ali ben Yusuf, camped in these grounds during his attempt at reconquering the former Alcázar Real, which accounts for the name of the gardens.
The Campo del Moro Gardens are one of three parklands belonging to the Royal Palace. Comparatively unknown by Madrilenians, they afford unique views of the palace. It is the perfect spot for strolling around and relaxing. Two sculptural groups are prominent in the park’s central hub – the Triton Fountain and the Fountain of the Shells. A curiosity is the House of Cork, a small, romantically inspired templet of a simplicity that contrasts with the rest of the area.
4. The Royal Botanical Gardens – Hallmark of the Enlightenment
Founded in 1755 by Ferdinand VI near the river Manzanares, in 1781 they were moved on the orders of Charles II to their current location on the Paseo del Prado, next door to the Prado Museum, then known as the Natural Science Museum.
The Royal Botanical Gardens reflect the spirit of the Enlightenment, the period in which they were designed. The gardens are laid out on three stepped terraces and feature plants from Europe, the Americas and the Pacific, numbering around 5,000 species in all. The grounds include a library which boasts a herbarium of over half a million sheets, and an archive with nearly 10,000 drawings. It was designated an “Artistic Garden” in 1942.
5. El Capricho – A Romantic Spot
Situated in the Alameda de Osuna, it is a veritable gem and yet comparatively unknown by local citizens. In 1985 it was listed as a Cultural Interest Site. The gardens were commissioned in 1784 by Doña María Josefa Pimentel, the Duchess of Osuna, and reflect the romanticist taste of the time, with English, French and Italian references. Sited in the gardens is a palace, a shrine, fountains, sculptural groups, ponds and a maze, all in a botanically rich setting. Several anti-aircraft shelters were built there during the Spanish Civil War, although the sole surviving vestiges are some air vents.
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Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by Naliade, Pablo Sanchez, Kus Cámara, M a n u e l
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