LifeStyle in the heart of Berlin
Por Tensi Sáncez de Actitudes Magazine
As soon as you get off the plane, you realise that life in Berlin is peaceful, unhurried and stress-free and that this city is somewhere where pollution does not form part of the landscape.
For a Berliner, there is no more precious treasure than being able to enjoy a sunny day and take to the streets in search of simple, everyday pleasures like walking, enjoying a bier somewhere in the open, reading a good book in one of the city’s 2,500 wonderful parks or visiting one of the hundreds of art galleries.
The German capital exudes modernity with a clearly unique personality that is reflected in the art that flows throughout the city and is embodied in endless forms. If you add to the mix that life in Berlin is not expensive, you come to the conclusion that this is one of the most dynamic capitals as far as European art and design are concerned.
The entire city is linked perfectly by the metro, a tram or train service. You will find it virtually impossible to discover somewhere that cannot be reached by one or more of these three modes of transport (although you may need a bit of patience at first to decipher things). That said, I want to highlight the Mitte district, which can be visited without the need to use public transport. Mitte means “the middle” or “half”, which is why this district is described as the heart of the city and is the best-known district in Berlin as here you will find the historic city centre.
One of my favourite hotels in the city is the Eurostar Berlin. Here you will want for nothing. There’s a pool, a sauna, a pianist in the lobby who accompanies you during breakfast beside the art exhibits, added to which the staff are really friendly.
From the hotel, a pleasant stroll along the banks of the river Spree will take you to Mitte, where you’ll find many shops, galleries, bars and restaurants. Let’s start with the fabulous Flagshipstore and its collections by more than twenty young German and Scandinavian designers. At Who killed Bambi, you’ll find women’s fashion and accessories with daring designs at good prices. Storia and Fairly offer some very feminine and elegant fashion that you will find impossible to resist.
Greta&Luis is a multi-faceted shop with a great deal of style, especially in clothes for young men. Another of my favourites is Potipoti, a Spanish brand created in 2005 by Silvia Salvador and Nando Cornejo. Its philosophy is to combine graphic design, art and fashion. All its collections are designed in Berlin and manufactured in Spain. You won’t be able to leave without buying something!
In Berlin, it’s impossible not to be seduced by the world of vintage clothing & accessories. One great example is Waahnsinn, where you’ll find an infinity of second-hand gadgets, clothes and accessories.Class of Berlin /run by Franzisca, designer of the Marlenes Tochter brand) is the perfect place to get yourself some vintage clothes from the 1930s through to the 1960s. They also offer a barber’s service. Finally, discover all things vintage with a touch of class at Garments, where you’ll succumb to authentic treasures at very reasonable prices by de Comme des Garcons, Valentino, Channel or Martin Marguiela, along with other outstanding brands.
If you like your objects and furniture to have a more industrial and retro look, Objets trouvés is the home décor place for you. Its peculiar frontage makes it easy to find. Not far away is the marvellous gallery ofOliver Rath, Rath-Gallery. His photography has an impact on everybody and inspires inner reflection. A few streets down is the aquabitArt gallery and its more avant-garde exhibitions.
Stopping for a coffee anywhere in the Mitte district is essential, and even more enjoyable when sitting out on one of the outdoor terraces. However, this is one special place hidden away down a side street at 39 Rosenthaler Straße. Once you find this place, you’ll think you have travelled back to a Berlin of times gone by. The graffiti is hypnotising. Go with the flow and follow it to the end where you’ll discover various art galleries, including Neurotitan Shop & Gallery, where you’ll no doubt lose yourself among the books, records, t-shirts, etc., and Central Kino, a unique cinema-shop with popcorn included.
To recover from the shock and to admire the unique nature of this side street, take a seat on the terrace atCafé Cinema and savour one of the excellent German beers on offer.
In the Mitte district, stretching from Hackesche Höfe to Oranienburger Strasse, there are many bars that flung open their doors to the hoards of West Berliners after the fall of the Berlin Wall. Some of these places are relatively easy to find but it’s more fun to lose yourself among the bars that sprout like mushrooms and disappear from one day to the next.
By Tensi Sáncez from Actitudes Magazine
Picture by Ruben Seco
You now have the essential tips for any first visit to Berlin. What are you waiting for to book your Vueling flight?
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Paris Shakespeare & Company
When one thinks of Paris, one of the first images that springs to mind is that of an aspiring writer, secluded in an attic, waiting for the Muse of inspiration to make her appearance. Paris is pure poetry and, as such, it houses some of the world’s best bookstores, like Shakespeare and Company. We are going to relive the fascinating history of this book shop and tour the most select Parisian literary venues.
Shakespeare and Company
Sylvia Beach had been in Paris for 20 years when she realised the need to open a shop where readers could find works in English. Shakespeare and Company opened on the rue Dupuytren in 1919 and subsequently moved to rue de l'Odéon, near Saint-Germain-des-Prés. The bookstore founded by Sylvia Beach – who was soon to embark on the publication of one of the great works of universal literature; James Joyce’s Ulysses – almost immediately caught on as a meeting point for English-language writers during their stay in Paris. There must have been some memorable literary gatherings within those walls between such illustrious figures as Man Ray, Ezra Pound, Ernest Hemingway and Samuel Beckett, among others.
In 1941, during the German occupation, Sylvia Beach refused to sell the first copy of Joyce’s novel, Finnegans Wake, to a German officer, an act of defiance which led her to be arrested and incarcerated in a concentration camp. She was released six months later, but never opened her book shop again. Sylvia Beach died in 1962 and a year later, another American, George Whitman, acquired her publishing list.
George Whitman had his own bookstore, Le Mistral, which was little more than a study full of printed pages on the rue de la Bûcherie, at the intersection of Saint-Jacques, alongside the Seine and opposite Notre Dame. Fascinated by the life story of Sylvia Beach, and as a tribute to her legacy, he changed the name of his store to rekindle the legend of Shakespeare and Company, the most famous bookstore in the world. This literary venue is well-known, among many other reasons, for providing accommodation to writers who come to Paris in search of inspiration free-of-charge on the upper floor of the shop. In exchange, they are expected to help stack the new releases that keep coming in, as well as serve and chat with customers. A huge number of literary figures have slept over in that loft – George Whitman estimates they number some 40,000. They include both anonymous enthusiasts and those who have ended up becoming paramount figures of the literary world. Prominent among our own literary figures is Terenci Moix who in his autobiography dedicates some passages to George Whitman and his stay at Shakespeare and Company (37 Rue de la Bûcherie).
Abbey Bookshop
Another of the most endearing bookstores in Paris is Abbey Bookshop. Located just a stone’s throw away from Shakespeare and Company, it is run by a Canadian whose warmth and friendliness are simply beyond words. The store is notable for its endless list of works in English (29 rue de la Parcheminerie).
Artazart
Located on the bucolic Canal St Martin, Artazart is a must-visit spot for design lovers. There, they will be enthralled not only by a stunning range of books and magazines on the subject but by some of the most outlandish design objects, on sale in the shop (83 Quai de Valmy).
Assouline
“The Most Sophisticated Books in the World” is the motto of Assouline Publishing. With branches in New York, London and Paris, its venue in the Saint Germain des Prés quarter features a boutique where you can purchase their publications, if you can afford them (35, rue Bonaparte).
Gibert Jeune
In the centrally located Place Saint-Michel, rather than a single bookstore per se, Gibert Jeune has several premises scattered around the square, each devoted to a different subject: literature, history, biography, etc. It can take up a whole afternoon’s browsing – and even two! (Place Saint-Michel)
L’Arnaqueur
A store featuring rare books, its major appeal lies in its boundless collection of titles dedicated to cinema, photography and art in general. In addition to books, the shop carries a huge selection of posters, acetates and promotional photos. A film-worthy experience for visitors (13 Rue Gerbier).
L’Écume des Pages
A bookstore purpose designed for those who cannot go to sleep without first reading for a while. At L’Écume des Pages, you will not manage to exhaust their wealth of titles, despite the shop staying open until midnight, except for Sundays, when they close at 10 p.m. to get a break (174 Boulevard Saint-Germain).
Ofr.
Freedom, fashion, design, Paris, elegance, class, youth, vibrant cultural urge… these are the words used by Ofr. to describe their publishing policy. A bookstore and exhibition gallery geared to art, design and fashion targeting the modern set, hipsters and other contemporary birds. Welcome to your Parisian intellectual gymnasium! (20 rue Dupetit-Thouars)
Ulysse
If Paris is just your first port of call on a long journey, make sure to drop in on Ulysse, one of the best bookstores in town and anywhere as far as globe-trotters and other migratory species are concerned (26 rue Saint-Louis en Île).
Text by Oriol Rodríguez for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Dustin Gaffke, craigfinlay, Groume, Arnaud Malon, Luc Mercelis, Blowing Puffer Fish
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De rubias por Bruselas
Belgium is a comparatively small land which has nevertheless made an inestimable contribution to the world of gastronomy – chips, waffles, chocolate and, very especially, beer. Here, over 450 varieties are made, whether by trusted traditional methods or using new technologies, yielding flavours that range from the classical to the most exotic. While the barley brew is a religion in Belgium, for beer enthusiasts Brussels is the hideout of some of the best taverns – and veritable places of pilgrimage – on the old continent.
A La Mort Subite
(Rue Montagne-aux-Herbes Potagères, 7)
Opened in 1910, A La Mort Subite is one of those spots oblivious to the passage of time. It boasts an exquisite beer selection, but I can recommend the one named after the establishment, Mort Subite, with its raspberry aroma. Its appearance and elegance on the palate have earned it the sobriquet of “the beer world’s pink champagne”.
Delirium Café
(Impasse de la Fidélité, 4)
This is Brussels’ beer cellar par excellence, a must-visit place of pilgrimage for any beer toper worth his or her salt. It started off as a tiny cellar on the Impasse de la Fidélité, but today it has taken over most of the street. Here you will find the whole range, from typical Belgium abbey beers to exotic beverages from the outer reaches of the planet. They need loads of storage space to house the more than five thousand types of beer on offer.
Le Cirio
(Rue de la Bourse, 18-20)
In the very heart of the Belgian capital, Le Cirio is located in the side street of the Bourse. Although not on account of its siting, the café is packed with guided tour parties. Le Cirio is a veritable institution in Brussels’ tavern guild. Rather than a venue for downing a pint, this spot, which still has its original centenary decor intact, is the ideal place for trying local cuisine, washed down – naturally – with a good indigenous beer.
Le Poechenellekelder
(Rue du Chêne, 5)
Hanging from its flea-market-like ceiling you will find anything from puppets to lavatory seats. Le Poechenellekelder is undoubtedly one of the bars with the most character in Brussels. This small venue, ideally located next door to the famous Manneken Pis, has a sizeable variety of mainly Trappist beers, crafted for the most part by monks.
Le Roy d’Espagne
(Grand Place, 1)
A seat on the terrace in the Grand Place is a privileged vantage point for viewing the bustle of the city. If, in addition, you are savouring steamed mussels, a helping of chips and, for instance, a 9° proof Chimay Bleue grand reserve, the experience is complete. The proposal might conjure up images of a rubberneck in flip-flops and socks, but there are certain pleasures one cannot – or should not – pass up, as clichéd or hackneyed as they may be.
Moeder Lambic
(Place Fontainas, 8)
Pils, Trappists, triples, doubles, wittes, IPAs, pale ales, stouts… you will find them all in the Moeder Lambic, a stunning place with its 40 taps arrayed behind an endless bar counter. While you’re there, make sure to try the beer they make themselves in a brewery just two blocks away. Fermented in the open air, the fruity taste of their Moeder Lambic Original is highly seductive.
Nuëtnigenough
(Rue du Lombard, 25)
A small brasserie always packed with locals, an unmistakeable sign of success. They offer excellent cuisine at more than reasonable prices and an array of beers that will meet the expectations of even the most seasoned beer connoisseurs. This is one of the hidden gems all cities seem to have, but guard the secret jealously!
Toone
(Rue du Marché aux Herbes, 66)
Our route ends with what is likely the quaintest bar in Brussels. The Toone, concealed between the buildings separating the Impasse de Sainte Pétronille from the Marché aux Herbes, is a brasserie which doubles as a puppet theatre. Between performances, customers drink amid puppets and a number of other fabled creatures.
Beer Weekend
The Belgian Beer Weekend is held the first weekend in September each year in Brussels’ Grand Place, where a host of brasseries sell their wares and regale visitors with activities relating to countless methods of brewing and different beer flavours.
Belgian Brewers Museum
The Maison des Brasseurs, a majestic stone building located in the Grand Place, is home to the Belgian Brewers Museum. It opens every day from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. and admission costs 5 euros.
Brussels Beer Tours
Being highly specialised in beer, Brussels is understandably criss-crossed by an endless list of thematic tours of the city, notably Beertrips, Belgian Beer Me, Global Beer, Podge Beer and Bier Mania.
Text by Oriol Rodríguez for ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
images by Bill Smith, ^CiViLoN^,Daniel Lobo, GD Preston, lhongchou's photography, Kmeron, Bernt Rostad, Foam, Ana Gasston
more infoThe Art of Eating
By Ferran Imedio from gastronomistas
Amsterdam has dozens of attractions for the visitor. Without doubt, the most important are the 'must sees and dos'; the canals (a cruise is a 'must do'), the Red Light district and the museums. Taken on its own, the city's gastronomy doesn't hold a great deal of appeal, unless it is combined with a 'must see'. Here we have created a sort of food-museum fusion, without the pretension or high prices. As Miguel Brugman, chef of the Foam Cafe points out, “A short time ago, museum cafes and restaurants only served sandwiches, cakes and tea. Things are finally changing.” The Dutch are faithful museum-goers and it's true that culinary offerings in cultural places have changed for the better. We found this out for ourselves. Here are our recommendations.
Foam Café
Foam Cafe is situated on the ground floor of the prestigious Foam Museum, the city's temple of contemporary photography (a small but very interesting show titled 'Under Construction', featuring young North American artists is on until December). You won't find anything too challenging here. On the contrary, the dishes are direct, simple and engaging. The menu has Mediterranean influences, lots of salads, lots of organic olive oil, plenty of vegetables and pulses, pitas, soups, scrambled eggs (you get the idea). It’S healthy and reasonably priced, with all dishes under 10 euros.
Foam functions as a restaurant from noon to 3pm. Before and after that (it opens at 10am and closes at 6pm) it's a café, serving cakes and the iconic saucijzen broodje (a pastry stuffed with a pork sausage, here prepared with organic ingredients) amongst other things.
On Thursdays, between 6pm and 9pm, the museum offers guided tours that end with supper in the restaurant; a set menu that consists of a tapa (hummus or perhaps marinated octopus) and a main dish (meat, fish or a vegetarian option) costing 19.50 euros. If you don't take the tour, the tapas is priced between 4-6 euros and the main courses 16.50 euros. On Fridays, also between 6pm and 9pm, Foam Cafe puts on 'Frozen Fridays' when they serve snacks (5 euros) and cocktails (6 euros).
Keizersgracht, 609
http://foam.org
Eye Bar-Restaurant
Overwhelming. That is the only word to describe the architecture of the Eye Film Museum. Inside, Holland's national film museum hosts four cinemas as well as an exhibition space. There is also a restaurant that looks like a cinema, with large steps looking onto a panoramic window resembling a cinemascope screen. It leads onto a terrace and affords views across the River Ij to the centre of the city and Central Station, which is next to the free ferry terminal. The restaurant offers French-influenced cuisine with nods to other parts of Europe. Midday sees a more simple menu of soups and salads whilst at night you can enjoy fillet steak and steak tartar, turbot, seafood bisque and mushroom risotto.
The price for the midday menu is 20 euros and in the evening the bill is generally under 40 euros. The restaurant is open 10.30am to 10.30pm (or 11.30pm on Fridays and Saturdays).
Ij Promenade, 1
www.eyefilm.nl
De Plantage
De Plantage is recently opened and contemporary. A natural light comes pouring through the large, welcoming dining room via huge vintage windows. Da Plantage serves Mediterranean food, of high quality and at reasonable prices. It's situated right next door to the entrance of he city's zoo; one of the oldest in the world and the most visited attraction in Amsterdam. The same building hosts a permanent exhibition called 'Micropia'; millions and millions of insects that inhabit the planet and can only be seen under a microscope. In the near future, it will also accommodate the Museum of Natural History.
De Plantage's dishes are well presented, aromatic and healthy; salads, raviolis, pork terrine, fried artichokes, risotto and fish. The kitchen is open from 10am to 4pm and 5.30pm to 10.30pm daily, and in-between times breakfasts and snacks are served. At lunchtime, it costs around 17 euros (drinks not included) and in the evenings around 35 euros. During the autumn months, an evening set menu is offered, consisting of three courses and costing 32.50 euros (drinks not included).
Plantage Kerklaan, 36
www.caferestaurantdeplantage.nl
Rijksmuseum
The enormous, majestic hall that exhibits art from the gothic to contemporary periods (and between November and January, 20th century photography in the show called 'Modern Times') also has an agreeable and tranquil café. The only beer served here is Dutch and in fact all ingredients in the (mainly cold) dishes are be local too. Sandwiches cost between 5 and 9 euros, salads between 12 and 16 and cakes from 2 to 5 euros. Note the chocolates that are shaped like the museum's facade.
The café is open from 9am to 5pm. If you visit the Rijksmuseum from November onwards, you can also eat at the restaurant, where a well-known international chef will take up residence for two or three months at a time - just like a temporary exhibition.
Museumstraat, 1
https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/es
Still hungry? You can always seek out some of the city's more or less conventional restaurants. In Amsterdam, there is a wide gastronomic offering, although you are better off avoiding traditional Dutch cuisine. Even locals agree with this statement, and generally only eat it at home.
Raïnaraï
This pleasant, modern restaurant serves traditional Algerian food (taureg is speciality). It is situated in the Westergasfabriek park, an old industrial zone whose gigantic gas tanks now accommodate dozens of restaurants, clothing shops and art galleries. There are 14 dishes on the menu and they change daily, but all are prepared with organic ingredients. It is open from Tuesday to Sunday, noon to 10pm. Expect to pay between 30 and 40 euros and 7.50 for cocktails.
Polonceaukade, 40
REM Eiland
A petroleum platform that was also used to transmit pirate radio and TV has been converted into a two-story restaurant (one accommodates a terrace, and is only open during the summer). It is simply spectacular. Climbing the steep metal staircase or skirting behind the security rails can produce a sense of vertigo. The cuisine served here is international; simple and direct at lunchtime whilst a night two set menus are offered for 31 euros (3 courses) and 37 euros (four courses), drinks not included. They include dishes such as turbot tartar, bulgur with peppers, avocado and red onion salad, grilled solomillo, and large raviolis filled with pumpkin, mushrooms, carrot and asparagus in the Parmesan sauce. It's opened daily, for lunch from noon and dinner from 5pm.
Haparandadam, 45-2
www.remeiland.com
Sky Lounge
Sky Lounge is a terrace restaurant with views located the 11th floor of the Double Tree Hotel. At night, it's a great place to partake in a cocktail with the entire city laid at your feet and a DJ providing the soundtrack. Whether day or evening, snack food from all four corners of the globe is served; nachos, sushi, sandwiches, fish and chips, hamburgers, pasta, edamamen and gyozas. It's open every day from 11am to 1am (to 3am Fridays and Saturdays).
www.skyloungeamsterdam.com
Brasserie Halte 3
An old tram garage and workshop that stood empty for 16 years has been colonised by two restaurants, a gastro zone with 21 stands offering all types of food (open daily 11am to 8pm, 4 to 8 euros per plate), a cinema, an art gallery, a book and bicycle shop, TV studios and a hotel. Altogether, the complex is called De Hallen. One of the restaurants, the recently opened Brasserie Halte 3, is a French-style bistro whose steak tartar is superb. Other offerings include oysters and lamb chops. Like most restaurants in Amsterdam, the midday menu is more pared down.
Open daily 11am to 10pm. Lunch: 10 euros, dinner: 25-30 euros.
Bellamyplein, 51
www.halte3.nl
Meat West
Also situated inside De Hallen, Meat West is only open for dinner. (7.30pm to 10.30 pm, 11.30pm Thursday to Saturday). Ninety- year old tram tracks decorate the floor and the menu specialises in prime cut meat, mostly steak, which features in hamburgers, entrecotes, chops and steaks.
Expect to pay between 40 and 50 euros (without drinks).
Bellamyplein, 51
www.meatwest.com
Blue Spoon
This restaurant, inside the Hotel Andaz, is one of the most interesting in the city. The French-influenced cuisine is made with local ingredients without the song and dance. The result is KM0, seasonal dishes dressed with herbs that are grown in the restaurant's garden. If you are staying at the hotel, there is a dining room for guests only with canal views, where you can have a snack or glass of wine for free during the day. You can also dine at the chef's table. Expect to pay between 35 and 45 euros without drinks. The 'family' menu, for 6 people, includes the best entrees and fish of the day and costs 56 euros per head. Open noon to 3pm and 6pm to 11pm.
Prinsengracht, 587
amsterdam.prinsengracht.andaz.hyatt.com/en/hotel/dining/Bluespoon.html
The Lobby
One of the most highly recommended restaurants in Amsterdam, not only for its location (two minute's walk from the monumental Damplatz) but also quality-price ratio. Every day, the kitchen opens from noon to 4pm and 6 to 10pm (Friday and Saturday cocktails are served to 3am) although you can also pop in for breakfast from 7am. Don't leave without trying the flammkuchen, a typical Alsatian pizza, thin and crunchy and topped with all manner of ingredients. Otherwise, local produce is prepared into international dishes. A set evening menu is offered for 34.50 euros (3 courses, no drinks). The fish dishes work extremely well, like the elegant sea bass. Also consider the exciting octopus with pancetta, and above all, pork neck cooked at low temperature.
Nes, 49
www.thelobby-amsterdam.nl
Gebr. Hartering
Brothers Paul and Nick Hartering are at the helm of this charming, creative cuisine restaurant on the banks of a canal. It has two floors, a plank over the water and even a little boat that acts as a terrace in good weather. Only tasting menus are served, one consisting of 6 courses (50 euros, without drinks) and another of 9 courses (75 euros, without drinks). Plates, designed to be shared, are placed centre table. The chefs work with local produce and are influenced by classic French cuisine with no mod cons. The wine list, naturally, features a very large selection of French wines.
Open Tuesday to Sunday, 6pm to 11pm.
Peperstraat, 10
www.gebrhartering.nl
Makes you want to go, right? Do it! Check out our prices here!
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